Have lab-grown diamonds changed the diamond industry forever?

Kodak never saw it coming either.

Since early 2022, the price of polished natural diamonds has fallen approximately 40% and the industry is being buffeted by negative economic headwinds, an excess of mine supply and too much stock in the cutting centres. However, there is one statistic that cannot be ignored: around 50% of Diamond Engagement Rings purchased in the United States now contain a Lab Grown Diamond (LGD). Is this just another cyclical downturn or are we in the middle of a major structural change?

Diamonds were once the preserve of royalty and the uber-wealthy, but the diamond market has evolved over the past 80 years into more of a mass market product with democratisation of the diamond consumer. Since the late 1970s most polished diamonds below 5 carats were priced against the 4 ‘C’s’ (carat, clarity, colour and cut), which led to standardised pricing in the form of polished diamond pricing lists. Up until the turn of the century these lists were primarily available in the wholesale market, but the arrival of internet pricing soon gave the consumer access to that same standardised pricing. In a world where everyone knows the price of everything, branding is the only differentiator. Without a differentiator, commoditised products end up selling for the lowest price.

It was why one of the questions that De Beers tried to answer when it changed its business model 25 years ago was: “How do you take a necessity (the diamond) priced like a commodity and market it as a luxury priced like a brand?”

Unfortunately, that question remains unanswered. The industry did create hundreds of so-called ‘brands’; origin, cut, settings, etc; the problem was that very few of them were real “brands”. If something does not sell at a premium, it’s not a brand, and most natural diamonds sell at a discount, yet the more that the industry was unable to achieve a premium, the more it becomes fixated with talking about the “product” when the luxury world has spent the last 25 years talking about “values”.

The challenge for most jewellers is not making a sale, it is making a reasonable margin. Ask a jeweller what they are selling and if they reply “VS1, G-H colour, loose polished, 1-caraters” then the most relevant word in their business will be “discounting”, because what they are selling is a commoditised version of “crystallised carbon.” There is no differentiator.

The LGD industry realised that to succeed it simply needed to persuade consumers that natural diamonds and LGDs were the same – “optically, physically and chemically”, but to also position them as “slightly cheaper”. They could then ride on the back of 80 years of De Beers diamond advertising differentiate themselves by claiming that LGDs were “conflict free”.

A larger “ethical” LGD for the same money as a natural diamond or pay less for the same size, created a money printing machine for everyone involved. And it’s no surprise that LGDs real success has been in the United States, because historically America has always been a “discount market”, and “larger for less” plays to that tune.

If all you want in a diamond is the sparkle, then they are in essence the same. Except there is a very real difference between the two, which is why some LGD executives insist on calling natural diamonds “earth mined” diamonds, because “natural” is exactly what differentiates them. The story of their age, rarity, origin; their social and economic contribution but above all, their “social purpose”. It was the failure of the natural diamond industry to tell that story which opened the door to LGDs.

When LGD production exploded, wholesale prices collapsed to around a 95% to 98% discount to their natural diamond equivalent. Prices vary according to quality, but anecdotal evidence suggests that today in the wholesale market, it is possible to buy a single polished LGD for $150 a carat, buy in volume and its possible to pay as low as $80 a carat.

Many retailers have also dropped their LGD prices, but by no means as far, and even pricing LGD at a 20-40% discount to their natural diamond equivalent can still leave a very significant margin. Pandora will sell you a 1-carat LGD ring for $1,950. Helzberg Jewellers (a Warren Buffet company) will sell you a similar LGD for $1,999. It’s very likely that some in the LGD industry are making a gross margin of 200%, some much more for a product that Signet Jewellers sensibly cautiones it customers “Their relative abundance may not ensure the value will hold over time”.

Whatever happens to future LGD retail prices, the category has got itself into the American consumer psyche and that won’t easily change, although there are also two sides to this story. I heard of a jeweller who was recently asked by a HNWI to make a replica of her 8-carat natural diamond ring so she could wear it travelling. The original ring cost $500,000 but he sourced an equivalent LGD for $5,000, and apparently she was absolutely thrilled with it. The question is, will she buy natural again? On the other hand, if in the future a consumer could buy (for example) a 2-carat LGD engagement ring for below $200, how pleased would their fiancé be to receive it – Walmart recently had a 2-carat LGD ring for sale for only $257. How romantic!

The US bridal market (size over quality) is dominated by larger, lower quality diamonds. Since similar sized LGDs are cheaper (or you get a much better quality LGD), either that market disappears, or demand only reappears aner prices have fallen sharply (already happened). It is also likely that LGDs will replace small, lower quality natural diamonds in fashion jewellery – as they may replace the smaller stones in high-end pieces of natural diamond jewellery. Diamond mining companies whose profitability rely on these categories of diamonds probably need to find a new value proposition, or their days may be numbered.

For those in the natural diamond industry who can adapt, there is huge potential. For those that don’t, as the saying goes, “Kodak never saw it coming either”.

Except Kodak did see it coming; they just didn’t know what to do about it. Kodak was killed off by digital photography which ironically, they invented, patented, but didn’t know how to exploit it, so they franchised the technology and made a fortune until their patents expired, and then went bust. Have LGDs done the same to natural diamonds? “No”, the opposite; their success is forcing a complacent industry to change. Have they changed the paradigm? “Completely”.

Source: DCLA

Gem Diamonds Doubles its +100 carats Haul

Gem Diamonds has now recovered twice as many +100 cts diamond this year than during the whole of 2023.

The UK-based company today announced a 129.71 carat Type II white diamond from its Letseng mine, in Lesotho.

It’s the 10th +100 cts diamond of 2024. Historically the mine averages eight per year, but last year it recovered only five.

The spike in high-value recoveries has helped push up revenue at Gem. Earlier this month it reported a 9 per cent increase in its first half earnings to $77.9m.

Letseng 70 per cent owned by Gem and 30 per cent by the Lesotho government is the highest dollar per carat kimberlite diamond mine in the world.

Pic courtesy Gem Diamonds, shows the 129.71 ct stone.

Source: DCLA

US Sanctions Russian Diamond Cutter and Retail Jeweler

The US has added the prominent jewelry brand Miuz and the diamond cutter Kristall to its list of sanctioned companies in Russia.

Kristall, Russia’s largest diamond cutter, is now on the Specially Designated Nationals (SDN) List administered by the US Treasury Department.

Alrosa, its parent company has been on the list since April 2022, shortly after Russia invaded Ukraine. Kristall, based in Smolensk, has been part of the Alrosa group since 2019.

Miuz Diamonds, which has production facilities in Moscow and Perm and a chain of 300 retail outlets, has also been added to the list.

Miuz is part of the Ruiz Group of diamond and jewelry enterprises, linked to Israeli billionaire Lev Leviev.

It is not clear why the companies were not sanctioned sooner.

Kristall and Miuz are among almost 400 individuals and entities in Russia and beyond its borders that were added to the SDN list last Friday (23 August).

“Russia has turned its economy into a tool in service of the Kremlin’s military industrial complex,” said Deputy Secretary of the Treasury Wally Adeyemo, announcing the additions.

“Treasury’s actions today continue to implement the commitments made by President Biden and his G7 counterparts to disrupt Russia’s military-industrial base supply chains and payment channels.”

Source: DCLA

US Lifts Ban on Grandfathered Diamonds Amid New Sanctions on Russian Gems

The Office of Foreign Assets Control (OFAC) has issued new licenses under the Russian Harmful Foreign Activities Sanctions Regulations, allowing for the sale of diamond jewellery and loose gem-quality diamonds imported before recent sanctions were implemented. This significant policy shift permits goods that were previously prohibited to re-enter the market.

Under the new guidelines, diamond jewellery purchased before March 1, 2024, as well as loose diamonds of 1 carat or larger bought before that date, and those of at least 0.50 carats purchased before September 1, 2024, can now be sold. The relaxation for loose diamonds will remain in effect until September 1, 2025.

However, starting September 1, 2024, the next phase of G7 diamond sanctions will impose restrictions on all goods of 0.50 carats or above from Russia, regardless of where they are cut and polished. This phase of sanctions is set to take effect next Sunday, despite substantial opposition from various industry stakeholders.

In response, the Jewelers Vigilance Committee has reported that the United States is considering supporting a delay in the implementation of these sanctions. This potential delay, which aligns with the European Union’s proposed extension to March 1, 2025, aims to provide additional time to resolve the intricacies of the sanctions and their impact on the diamond trade.

Source: DCLA

AI system grades diamonds faster, cheaper, more accurately

Assessing the value of a diamond is a job that’s been done by eye for centuries. 

But artificial intelligence (AI) is now so sophisticated that it can do the same task faster, cheaper and more accurately.

There can be a huge difference in value even between two diamonds of the same size. That’s why a whole industry has developed, dedicated to grading them.

But advances in machine learning have now made computers more reliable than humans, according to Sarine, a diamond-tech company based in Israel. 

Today the vast majority of diamond manufacturers – the businesses that cut and polish rough gems – send their loose stones to grading labs.

They wait a couple of weeks for the diamonds to be returned with certificates listing their key attributes. And they typically pay at least $100 per diamond for the service (depending on size).

Sarine aims to dramatically cuts cost and delays by locating its automated eGrading technology inside factories in a lease arrangement.

Staff operate the machine, which can grade and certify a diamond in a matter of minutes.

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It’s as convenient as using an ATM, says Roni Ben-Ari, deputy CEO & VP products at Sarine.

He says the machines consistently deliver higher quality results than the best grading labs, without the expense of employing gemologists (gemstone experts) or paying for premises, infrastructure and other overheads.

Can’t cheat the system

You may be thinking the diamond factory gets to “mark its own homework” if the grading machine is inhouse, and that it could cheat the system to get a better grade.

But Ben-Ari is adamant that the system’s security is so tight it’s simply not possible for anyone to interfere.

Every diamond is unique – like a fingerprint, a snowflake or DNA – and every diamond is identified by full 360-degree images.

The raw data that Sarine’s machines gather is securely uploaded to the cloud, and only then converted into a grading report.

Grading diamonds objectively with Sarine’s eGrading system.

It’s worth considering what’s at stake here. 

An absolute top-quality natural one-carat diamond (a popular size for engagement rings) could set you back $14,000. But you could get a poor-quality diamond of the same size for under $2,000. That’s why grading a diamond is so important.

The 4Cs

Four main criteria determine the value of a diamond. They’re known as the 4Cs – carat (weight), cut (how well the rough stone has been shaped), color (the best diamonds are colorless) and clarity (absence of flaws or blemishes).

Diamonds are valued on the basis of carat, cut, color and clarity.

Color and clarity are the hardest criteria to determine. Labs give diamonds a letter for color (from D to Z) and a label indicating one of 11 levels of clarity (from IF, internally flawless, to I3 for diamonds with the worst flaws or “inclusions”). 

Weighing a diamond is straightforward, but the other three Cs can be subjective. 

“I can guesstimate that if you sent the same 100 diamonds to the lab over and over again, around 70 percent would get the same grade,” says Ben-Ari. 

That leaves 30% where a different lab, or a different day, or a different staff member could give the diamond a different grade – and a different value.

Sarine’s system uses AI to grade clarity.

A lot of biases

“The human eye is a muscle; it gets tired,” says Ben-Ari. “It’s affected by your physical conditions, whether you’re tired or angry, or it’s the beginning of the shift or the second half of the shift. 

“There are a lot of biases. It’s very difficult to educate people from different cultures in different locations around the world to grade the same diamond in the same way.

“So the labs invented a very sophisticated process where two people grade the diamond. When they agree, that’s the diamond grade and when they don’t, they bring in a third person.”

But it’s a labor-intensive business. Sarine, already an established world leader in guiding diamond cutters to get the highest value from a rough gem, realized it could develop a better way of doing things.

Sarine’s loupe doesn’t get tired like a human eye would.

AI can grade diamonds

The company, founded in 1988 and based in Hod Hasharon, central Israel, embarked on the mammoth task of teaching AI how to grade diamonds.

That involved showing the AI model more than 30,000 diamonds that had already been graded by GIA (Gemological Institute of America) the world’s biggest lab. The more diamonds they showed it, the better the results.

Sarine introduced eGrading machines, using AI to grade diamonds.

Because Sarine deals in technology and not in physical diamonds, all those diamonds to train the computer model had to be borrowed.

That’s why Sarine’s first eGrading machines, installed in mid-2022, were located in factories in India, where over 90% of all diamonds are cut and polished. 

“We started in southern India, where we have a facility with 400 employees to provide customer support,” says Ben-Ari.” The next step will be a rollout to Botswana and Namibia, both counties which mine and manufacture diamonds.”

Lab-grown diamonds

We’ve been talking so far about “natural” diamonds, but what about lab-grown diamonds? 

Natural diamonds formed miles below the Earth’s surface under high pressure and high temperature in a process that took over more than a billion years.

Lab-grown diamonds are created within weeks, are optically and physically identical to natural diamonds, and now sell for a fraction of the price.

They have driven the need for cheaper grading because in many cases the cost of an ordinary certificate outweighs the cost of manufacturing the diamond.

There are, however, some complex technical differences between natural and lab-grown diamonds, which means Sarine technology can grade them in the lab but not yet remotely with eGrading at factories. Sarine is working on an AI fix for that.

Source: DCLA

Lucara Diamond Corp. (“Lucara” or the “Company”) is thrilled to announce the recovery of an exceptional 2,492 carat diamond from its Karowe Diamond Mine in Botswana. This remarkable find, one of the largest rough diamonds ever unearthed, was detected and recovered by the Company’s Mega Diamond Recovery (“MDR”) X-ray Transmission (“XRT”) technology, installed in 2017 to identify and preserve large, high-value diamonds. The stone was recovered from the processing of EM/PK(S) kimberlite, the dominant ore type that Lucara will continue to target during the first years of the Company’s underground mining operations.

This discovery underscores Karowe’s reputation as a world-class asset and reaffirms Lucara’s position as a leading producer of large, exceptional diamonds. This latest recovery joins an impressive roster of other significant finds from the mine, including the 1,758 carat Sewelô and the 1,109 carat Lesedi La Rona.

William Lamb, President and CEO of Lucara, commented on this historic discovery: “We are ecstatic about the recovery of this extraordinary 2,492 carat diamond. This find not only showcases the remarkable potential of our Karowe Mine, but also upholds our strategic investment in cutting-edge XRT technology. The ability to recover such a massive, high-quality stone intact demonstrates the effectiveness of our approach to diamond recovery and our commitment to maximizing value for our shareholders and stakeholders.”

Mr. Lamb added, “This discovery reinforces Karowe’s position as a truly world-class diamond mine and highlights the continued success of our operational and underground development strategy.”

Botswana’s diamond industry delivers wide-ranging socio-economic benefits to the country that extend well beyond the mining sector. Its influence supports national development by funding critical areas such as education and healthcare.

This discovery symbolizes Botswana’s continued ascent as a global leader in diamond production. It represents not only the unparalleled wealth found in Botswana’s soil, but also the remarkable progress the nation has made in developing its diamond industry for the benefit of its citizens.

This news release has been reviewed and approved by Dr. Lauren Freeman, PhD. Pr. Sci. Nat., Vice-President, Mineral Resources of the Company and a “Qualified Person” for the purposes of National Instrument 43-101.

On behalf of the Board,

William Lamb

Namibia bemoans popularity of lab-grown diamonds on global market

Namibia is one of Africa’s top five diamond exporters, right behind Angola, Botswana, and South Africa. In 2022, the country exported more than $940 million worth of diamonds.

The world’s demand for natural diamonds has bounced back from a slump during the COVID-19 pandemic, with Namibia’s largest marine dining company, Debmarine, reporting a sales increase of 83% in 2022 from the previous year.

Still, Debmarine CEO Willy Mertens is worried about competition from synthetic diamonds, sector of the business that could cost many Namibians their jobs.

Though trained jewelers can tell the difference between lab-grown and natural diamonds, there’s nothing obvious to distinguish lab-grown diamonds from natural ones.

The Modern Mining publication recently said that in 2022, lab-grown diamond jewelry surpassed 10% of the market of global jewelry sales for the first time. The publication said artificial diamond sales are forecast to continue growing at an annual double-digit percentage rate in coming years.

Namibia, where workers extracted 2.1 million carats in diamonds in 2022, is embarking on a campaign to tout natural diamonds as environmentally sound and holding greater value for the money.

“We’ve seen in the past couple of years that lab-grown diamonds, or synthetics as you call them, have sort of infiltrated the natural diamond market,” said Mertens. ” … people were first marketing them as real diamonds and we’ve done a lot of work around trying to differentiate them.”

One of the challenges of marketing Namibian natural diamonds is the environmental impact that diamonds have on the landscape.

Mertens said Debmarine invests a significant amount of its profits into environmental rehabilitation and restoration of landscapes and the seabed damaged by mining.

“The restoration of the seabed actually happens naturally as the waves move,” Mertens said. “So what we are doing is that we are monitoring that, and what we do is we mine out a specific area and we leave an area next to it vacant, and over time we monitor how the area where we have recovered diamonds looks like compared to the one that was not touched and we’ve seen that it takes about three to 10 years maximum for that to completely restore. By completely restoring, mean about 70% of the organisms have returned to that place. On the land, it is sand that we are moving and what we do now is that we are using that same sand to keep the sea walls in tact.”

Mertens recently paid a courtesy call on Namibian President Nangolo Mbumba, to introduce the De Beers global ambassador for natural diamonds, Hollywood actor Lupita Nyong’o, and talk to the president about challenges facing Namibia’s diamond industry.

De Beers Natural Diamonds Global Ambassador Lupita Nyong’o, left, Namibia President Nangolo Mbumba, center, and Debmarine CEO Willy Mertens in Windhoek, Namibia, July 19, 2024. (Vitalio Angula/VOA)
De Beers Natural Diamonds Global Ambassador Lupita Nyong’o, left, Namibia President Nangolo Mbumba, center, and Debmarine CEO Willy Mertens in Windhoek, Namibia, July 19, 2024. (Vitalio Angula/VOA)
President Mbumba lamented a proposal for the Kimberley process — the process meant to screen out so-called “conflict diamonds” from entering the international market — to begin certifying all diamonds in Antwerp, Belgium.

The Group of Seven largest economies said that is an effort to prevent Russian diamonds from being sold abroad.

Mbumba said the measure would hurt African diamond producers.

“Recently, the decision was made by the G7 countries to route all rough and polished diamonds destined for G7 countries via Belgium,” said Mbumba. “This decision poses a serious risk and threat to our economies, especially the economies of Angola, Botswana and Namibia by increasing the cost as well as curtailing freedom of trade for our countries’ products.”

Namibia’s president said he and his counterparts from Angola and Botswana have written a letter to the G7 to ask them to halt their plans.

Source: DCL

Botswana aims to negotiate bigger stake in HB Antwerp diamond dealer

Botswana intends to renegotiate its proposed purchase of a stake in Belgian gem dealer HB Antwerp to double the size of its shareholding at no extra cost following the downturn in the diamond market, the country’s mines minister said on Tuesday.

Botswana is the world’s biggest diamond producer by value, meaning its economy has been disproportionately hit by a drop in demand for diamonds caused by a global economic slowdown.

Lefoko Moagi told Parliament the weaker diamond market had also affected the company’s valuation, giving the country room to renegotiate.

“We will not be injecting more capital, but we will get more shares for the same amount proposed in 2023,” Moagi said. “Instead of the 24%, we will negotiate to get 49.9% for the same amount initially proposed.”

Finance ministry budget documents showed in February that the country had set aside 890 million pula ($65.95 million) for the 24% stake, valuing the Belgian company at about $275-million.

The HB Antwerp deal was announced during Botswana’s negotiations for a new sales contract with Anglo American’s diamond unit De Beers in March 2023.

As Botswana sought to increase its power to market its stones outside a decades-old agreement with De Beers, it said the HB Antwerp deal would strengthen its presence in the downstream diamond industry.

It includes supplying the trader with rough diamonds for five years through the state-owned Okavango Diamond Company (ODC).

Source: miningweekly

Lucara sold 76 387 ct during the second quarter

Diamond producer Lucara Diamond Corp sold 76 387 ct of diamonds, generating $41.3-million in revenue, during the second quarter ended June 30.

The company recovered 92 419 ct of diamonds at a grade of 12.9 ct for every 100 t of direct milled ore.

Additionally, 8 349 ct were recovered from processing historic recovery tailings. The company recovered 206 special diamonds, defined as rough diamonds weighing more than 10.8 ct, representing 6.9% by weight of the total recovered carats from the second quarter’s processed ore. This aligns with the company’s expectations, Lucara said.

Noteworthy recoveries during the period included a 491 ct Type IIa diamond, a 225.6 ct Type IIa diamond and a 109 ct Type IIa diamond.

Significant progress was made in shaft sinking for the ventilation and production shafts during the second quarter, with the critical path ventilation shaft ahead of the July 2023 rebase schedule. By the end of the quarter, the production and ventilation shafts had reached depths of 557 m below collar and 550 m below collar, respectively.

Operational highlights from the Karowe mine for the quarter included ore and waste mined of 700 000 t, with ore processed totalling 700 000 t.

Financial highlights for the second quarter revealed operating margins of 67%, compared with 59% in the second quarter of 2023. This strong operating margin is attributed to robust pricing for the company’s larger stones and cost reduction initiatives, supported by a strong dollar.

The operating cost was $26.32/t processed, a 6% decrease from $27.97/t in the second quarter of 2023 and consistent with the $26/t in the first quarter of this year.

Lucara believes the impact of inflationary pressures, particularly in labour, was well-managed by the operation, with a strong dollar offsetting a slight increase in costs compared with the previous period.

Adjusted earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortisation (Ebitda) were $18.8-million, up from $16.5-million in the second quarter of 2023, driven by increased revenue and lower operating expenses.

During the second quarter, the company invested $11.2-million into the Karowe Underground Project (KUP), excluding capitalised cash borrowing costs. The ventilation shaft sank 128 m, and development of the 470-level station, located at about 550 m below collar, began.

Production shaft activities included the sinking of 104 m and the completion of three probe hole covers, with no water being intersected. A total of 26 m of lateral development on the 470-level, along with the 470-level station development, was completed.

As of June 30, Lucara reported cash and cash equivalents of $21.9-million and working capital of $21.7-million. The company had drawn $165-million on the $190-million project facility for the KUP, with an additional $25-million drawn on the $30-million working capital facility and a cost overrun reserve account balance of $37.5-million.

The Karowe mine registered no lost-time injuries during the second quarter, taking the mine to more than three years without a lost-time injury.

“Lucara’s performance this quarter reaffirms our position as a leader in the diamond industry. Our . . . safety and operational excellence [record] continues to drive our success, with both our openpit operations and underground construction progressing admirably. The Underground Expansion Project, in particular, is advancing well, with shaft sinking progress surpassing our expectations,” Lucara president and CEO William Lamb said on August 12.

Lucara noted that, in the diamond market, the long-term outlook for natural diamond prices remains positive owing to improving supply and demand dynamics, largely driven by long-term reductions from major producing mines.

However, the market for smaller-sized diamonds remains soft, impacted by a weak Asian market and the rise of laboratory-grown diamonds.

Lucara said demand for larger diamonds over 10.8 ct remained robust, as reflected in the company’s sales.

However, the G7 sanctions on Russian diamonds over 1 ct, effective March this year, have caused some trade delays owing to new regulations requiring these diamonds to be processed through the Antwerp World Diamond Centre for origin verification.

Lucara, with its established operations producing Botswana diamonds, stands to benefit from this heightened focus on origin verification.

Sales of laboratory-grown diamonds increased steadily through 2023 and into this year, with many smaller retail outlets increasingly adopting these diamonds as a product.

In the second quarter, diamond producer De Beers announced that it would cease creating synthetic diamonds and focus on selling natural diamonds. This decision aligns with several major brands confirming they would not market laboratory-grown diamonds.

Lucara said the long-term impact was expected to support the natural diamond market, with a bifurcation between the natural and laboratory-grown diamond markets expected in the medium term.

The company believes that the longer-term market fundamentals for natural diamonds remain positive, as demand is expected to outstrip future supply, which has been declining globally over the past few years.

Source: DCLA

Falling prices, low consumer trust, imports issues for lab-grown diamond: GTRI

New Delhi: India’s lab-grown diamond industry is facing challenges such as significant fall in prices, eroding consumer interest and competition from imports, think tank Global Trade Research Initiative (GTRI) said Sunday, adding said that though India faces the issue of production overcapacity, it continues to import in large amounts and this issue needs deeper investigation.

To address these challenges, the government needs to take certain steps such as setting clear and consistent rules to standardize quality, certification, and market practices; issuing a Quality Control Order to check quality of imports; and investment in research and development to improve production processes, reduce costs, and enhance the quality of lab-grown diamonds.

As per the report, India’s lab-grown diamond industry is facing a major challenge, with prices falling by 65% in the past year to Rs 20,000 per carat from Rs 60,000 due to local overproduction and oversupply from abroad, which points to problems like overproduction, high imports, and lack of regulation. The number of units producing lab-grown diamonds in India has increased to 10,000 units, leading to over supply and tougher competition.

The industry lacks clear regulations checking such practices, making it hard to ensure quality. Lack of proper certification, and low trust market operations could slow down the industry’s growth, according to GTRI founder Ajay Srivastava.

He added that 98% of India’s imports of rough lab-grown diamonds come from Hong Kong (63.7% or $728.2 million) and the UAE (28.5% or $326 million).

In FY24, India imported rough lab-grown diamonds worth $1.14 billion and exported cut and polished ones worth $1.3 billion.

Natural diamonds cost around Rs 3.5 lakh per carat and this price drop is making it difficult for manufacturers to repay loans taken for purchasing lab-grown diamond making machines, putting them under financial strain, GTRI said.

Source: DCLA

One of the Last Argyle Pinks Leads Online Auction

A loose 0.94 carat Argyle Pink – one of the last recovered from the iconic mine in Western Australia – is being sold at auction.

It is the highlight of a 416-lot online event (ending 11 August), featuring many items that belonged to Graham Jackson, former owner of Loloma Jewellers, located in Townsville, Australia, who died aged 92 in May.

The cushion cut fancy intense VS1 gem is designated as 6P – 6/10 for intensity of hue and P for pink as the dominant hue.

It was sold at the 2021 Argyle Pink Tender-Rio Tinto’s Final Collection, the last tender from the mine, which closed in November 2020 after 37 years, during which it produced 90 per cent of the world’s pink diamonds.

The stone is being sold by Sydney-based First State Auctions, with an estimate of AUD$700,000 to AUD$800,000 (US$455,000 to U$520,000).

Last January Tiffany & Co. has bought a parcel of 35 Argyle pinks – from 0.35 carats to 1.52 carats – for “select clients”.

Source: DCLA

Gem Diamonds digs up 145 carat diamond in Lesotho

Africa-focused miner Gem Diamonds has unearthed a 145.55 carat, Type II white diamond at its prolific Letsěng mine in Lesotho.

The diamond, recovered on August 3rd, is the ninth greater than 100-carat precious stone recovered this year at the operation, the company said.

Type IIa diamonds are the most valued and collectable precious gemstones, as they contain either very little or no nitrogen atoms in their crystal structure. Boart diamonds are stones of low quality that are used in powder form as an abrasive.

The Type II, white diamond is the ninth greater than 100-carat precious stone recovered this year at the Letsěng mine.

The Letšeng mine is one of the world’s ten largest diamond operations by revenue. At 3,100 metres (10,000 feet) above sea level, it is also one of the world’s most elevated diamond mines.

Diamond miners are going through a rough patch as US and Chinese demand for diamond jewellery continues to be weak and the popularity of cheaper laboratory grown diamonds continues to rise.

In 2015, man-made diamonds had barely made an appearance as a competitor to natural diamonds. By last year, these stones accounted for more than 10% of the global diamond jewelry market, according to industry specialist Paul Zimnisky.

The market values of small to medium diamond mining companies, including Canada’s Lucara, South Africa’s Petra, and Gem Diamonds itself, are around $100 million or less. This is only about a third or a fourth of the price the large stones they aim to find may be worth.

The news comes as competitor Petra Diamonds postponed the sale of rough stones mined at its South African operations that would have been offered during the August/September event of the year, amid low demand.

Source: DCLA

Petra defers another diamond tender amid weak demand

Petra Diamonds has once again postponed the sale of roughs, holding on to the diamonds from its South African operations that would have been offered during the August/September event of the year, amid low demand.

The tender of diamonds from Petra’s Williamson mine in Tanzania will proceed as planned, the company said. It noted that this decision aimed to “support steps taken by major producers to restrict supply during this period of weaker demand.”

Rough diamond parcels from the miner’s South African operations, originally earmarked for sale as part of the first tender of fiscal year 2025, are now planned to be offered in the second tender, expected to close mid-October 2024.

Petra will sell diamonds from its Williamson mine in Tanzania during August/September as planned.

Petra’s South African producing operations include the Cullinan and Finsch mines.

“Our expectation is that supply discipline, together with the expected seasonally stronger demand as we head towards the festive season, will provide some pricing support later in the calendar year,” chief executive Richard Duffy said in the statement.

Petra had differed in June the majority of what would have been its sixth sale for its 2024 fiscal year to the August/September offering, or tender one of fiscal 2025.

The company said recent steps taken to improve its financial position have provided it with the ability to adjust the timing of its tenders based on market conditions.

Source: DCLA

US Watch and Jewelry Sales in June: Biggest Monthly Increase for Two Years

 US Watch and Jewelry Sales in June: Biggest Monthly Increase for Two Years

                Rolex Submeriner Date 41mm Oyster yellow gold

Watch and jewelry sales in the US picked up significantly in June, with their biggest single monthly increase in two years.
The year-on-year increase was 6.2 per cent, according to the latest figures published by the US Department of Commerce. The last time we saw such an increase was in July 2022 (also 6.25 per cent).
The trend for the last three months has been of continued growth, but at a slower rate (March 4.5 per cent; April 3.7 per cent; May 3.3 per cent). The rise in sales follows a year or so of almost relentless decline (October 2022 to October 2023).
Revisions to figures for April and May by the Bureau of Economic Analysis (BEA) at the US Department of Commerce show sales were higher than initially reported. The year-on-year increase for April was 3.7 per cent (revised up from 2.7 per cent based on actual transactions rather than estimates) and for May it was 3.3 per cent (revised up from 1.4 per cent).

Source: DCLA

Fancy Color Diamond Prices: First Drop in Almost Four Years

Fancy yellow cushion cut diamond

The Index tracking fancy color diamond prices fell during the last quarter, for the first time in almost four years.

The Fancy Color Diamond Index, which monitors pricing data for of all sizes and intensities of fancy color diamonds, fell by 0.7 per cent during Q2 2024, according to an update published yesterday (30 July) by the Fancy Color Research Foundation (FCRF).

The last recorded fall was back in Q3 2020 – in the depths of the Covid crisis – when the Index also fell by 0.7 per cent. That came after two quarters when sales were too slow for the FCRF to produce figures at all.

The trend over the last year or so has been of slower growth. The Index was up 1.3 per cent in Q1 2023, followed by +0.5 per cent (Q2); +0.4 per cent (Q3); +0.1 per cent (Q4) and +0.1 per cent (Q1 2024).

The New York-based FCRF played down the Q2 dip, describing it as “a minor fluctuation when compared to broader market movements”.

It said in a statement: “This stability is particularly evident relative to the sharper declines in the white diamond market and the Dow Jones index, which fell by 3.6 per cent and 1.7 per cent respectively during the same period.

Yellow diamonds (all sizes, all intensities) suffered the biggest drop, down 1.7 per cent. Pinks and blues were both down 0.3 per cent.

The FCRF said its Index had enjoyed an overall increase of 211 per cent since it began compiling data in 2005. During that time it said the price of yellow diamonds had risen by 56 per cent, pinks by 398 per cent and blues by 248 per cent.

Source: DCLA

Botswana’s diamond market suffers major blow as sales drop by 49% in first half of 2024

According to Botswana’s central bank data, sales of rough diamonds at Debswana Diamond Company fell by 49.2%, amounting to $1.29 billion compared to $2.54 billion in the same period last year.

In local currency, sales of rough diamonds decreased by 47.3% to 17.555 billion pula compared to the same period last year.

This decline in sales is a major blow to the South African nation, which derives 30%-40% of its revenue, 75% of its foreign exchange earnings, and a third of its national output from sales of rough diamonds.

The report highlighted the downturn in the global diamond market as the primary reason for this sharp decline.

In response to the weak consumer demand, Anglo American cut its diamond production by 19% in the first six months of the year.

The report highlighted the downturn in the global diamond market as the primary reason for this sharp decline.

Botswana derives 30%-40% of its revenue, 75% of its foreign exchange earnings, and a third of its national output from sales of rough diamonds.

The Debswana Diamond Company is a joint venture between the government of Botswana and Anglo American Plc’s De Beers. Anglo American Plc’s De Beers sells 75% of its output to De Beers, while the balance is taken up by the state-owned Okavango Diamond Company.

Despite the current economic challenges, Botswana and De Beers signed a ten-year diamond sales agreement in June.

This deal will gradually see the share of Debswana’s output sold by the state-owned company increase from 25% to 30% before it goes up to 40% in five years and eventually 50% by the end of the new contract.

According to the key points in the agreement, this strategic move aims to boost Botswana’s revenue from its diamond resources.

Source: africa.businessinsider