India’s Government Urged to Adopt Lab Grown Rules

India’s government is being urged to adopt the same rules on lab grown terminology as the US.

The GJEPC (Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council) says its 7,000-plus members are now required to adhere to the rules introduced by the US Federal Trade Commission (FTC) in 2016 and amended two years later. They have also been adopted by many other countries.

“Since India’s gem and jewellery trade has unanimously accepted the FTC’s new definition with respect to diamonds, we urge the Indian government and ministries to accept, adopt and adapt the same to existing consumer laws of our country.”

The FTC provides detailed guidance on exactly what forms of words can be used. It says: “If you sell laboratory-created diamonds, you should tell consumers that they are not mined diamonds by describing them as “laboratory-grown,” “laboratory-created,” “[manufacturer name]-created,” or some other word or phrase of like meaning so as to disclose, immediately preceding the word “diamond” and equally conspicuously, the nature of the product and the fact it is not a mined diamond.”

Smit Patel, convener of the GJEPC’s lab-grown diamond panel, said: “We have urged the government to align with the advancements and economic significance of lab-grown diamonds by adopting a forward-looking policy framework.”

The Indian government says its Central Consumer Protection Authority (CCPA) has organized a stakeholder consultation on consumer protection for the diamond sector, following representations from the GJEPC.

Source: DCLA

Another Big Drop for India’s Rough Exports

India’s exports of polished diamonds suffered yet another big fall in September, down 22.9 per cent, according to the latest figures from the GJEPC (Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council).

That’s a marginally better performance than August, when year-on-year exports were down by 23.8 per cent. Between April and September total foreign sales fell 20.6 per cent (all figures in US dollars).

Actual monthly sales tell a different story from year-on-year decreases. Total foreign sales for September were $1.29bn, compared to $1.04bn in August and $908m in July.

Across the whole gems and jewelry industry in India, gross exports were $2.54bn, down 15.9 per cent year-on-year (compared to 22.9 per cent for polished diamonds).

Exports of polished lab growns – still a tiny minority of all diamond sales – were down 16.5 per cent to $111m.

Source: DCLA

Call for Clear Lab Grown Labels in India

Lab grown Diamonds

The Indian government is facing calls to adopt US guidelines to distinguish lab growns from natural diamonds.

The 10,000-member GJEPC (Gems and Jewellery Export Promotion Council) says there is widespread confusion in the way diamonds are marketed and advertised.

It says India should adopt the US Federal Trade Commission (FTC) guidelines, which say there must be a “clear and conspicuous” indicating that a diamond is man-made.

They also say the term “diamond” without qualification can only be used to refer to a natural, mined diamond.

And lab growns cannot be described as “real,” “genuine,” “natural,” or “precious” without additional qualifying language.

The GJEPC has written to India’s Department of Consumer Affairs calling for strict rules to differentiate between natural and lab grown.

“The absence of standardised guidelines on diamond terminology leads to ambiguity,” it says.

“And there are no mandatory disclosure requirements to indicate whether a diamond is lab-grown or natural to the consumer.”

Source: DCLA

Lab Grown Companies Move to Near-Empty Surat Bourse

The near-empty Surat Diamond Bourse (SDB) is hoping the arrival of around 40 lab grown traders will signal a change in its fortunes.

The vast new center, recognized by Guinness World Records as the largest office building in existence, was officially opened last December by India’s prime minister Narendra Modi .

It has a capacity of 4,500 offices, but remains virtually empty.

The bourse has, according to local media reports, now reached an agreement with the Lab Grown Diamond Association (LGDA) to relocate around 40 lab grown companies from elsewhere in Surat.

Mahesh Gadhvi, CEO at SDB, said recently that 250 offices were currently occupied (that’s less than 6 per cent of the total).

“Steadily we are progressing towards opening more offices and starting more businesses from SDB,” he told the business news channel CNBC.

Source: DCLA

Lightbox Launches New Campaigns – Despite Ending Production

Lightbox has just launched new campaigns for its lab grown diamonds – despite its announcement in June that it was halting production.

The wholly-owned De Beers-owned subsidiary says it has enough existing inventory to keep it going for the time being.

The production facility in Portland, Oregon, USA, is now being used to manufacture industrial diamonds by Element Six, also owned by De Beers.

“Lightbox has sufficient existing inventory from Element Six to meet the brand’s needs for the foreseeable future,” a company spokesperson told IDEX Online.

“At JCK (in June), we communicated that Element Six (our synthetic diamond industrial business which had also been producing LGDs for Lightbox) would suspend production of LGDs for jewellery to focus on high-tech industrial applications.

“However, Lightbox as a brand is continuing as it plays an important role in supporting the differentiation between LGDs and natural diamonds as LGD prices continue to decline and they are increasingly used in fashion jewellery.

“The latest Lightbox campaigns, referenced in the email below, reinforce this as they focus on foregrounding the message of Lightbox’s recently lowered per carat pricing and its fashion-forward approach to product design.

Lightbox says its new Fall campaigns – Shine Bright Spend Less and Modern Family – reflect the brand’s focus on fashion jewelry and accessible pricing.

Melissa Crivillaro, Lightbox’s chief marketing officer, said: “Our accessible prices, our fun and colorful innovations, and our fashion-focused lab-grown diamond jewelry collections underpin Lightbox’s broad appeal.

“As we lean into our next chapter with a revived identity, new creative campaigns and bold price messaging, we look to connect more deeply with our customers.”

Source: DCLA

Lab Grown Discussions at AGS Confluence

The American Gem Society (AGS) will present panel discussions on lab grown diamond pricing and supply, advances in lab grown identification and the art of natural diamond storytelling.

The three-hour Confluence is an online-only event, featuring three pre-recorded sessions, designed to allow the speakers to take part in a live chat Q&A.

The event is scheduled for 25 September and will be accessible to non-AGS members for a $150 fee. The sessions will remain available, on demand, until 31 December.

The Importance of Diamond Screening: Challenges, Techniques, and Resources covers the latest screening technologies and their limitations, providing guidance on using gemological instruments for verification.

Laboratory-Grown Diamonds: Pricing, Supply, and Disclosure explores the complexities of the lab grown diamond market, including pricing dynamics and the importance of transparency.

And The Incredible Story of Natural Diamonds delves into the geological history and mining processes of natural diamonds, featuring insights from experts at GIA , which is sponsoring the event.

AGS is a nonprofit trade association representing a select group of jewelers, independent appraisers, and suppliers in the jewelry industry.

Source: DCLA

Have lab-grown diamonds changed the diamond industry forever?

Kodak never saw it coming either.

Since early 2022, the price of polished natural diamonds has fallen approximately 40% and the industry is being buffeted by negative economic headwinds, an excess of mine supply and too much stock in the cutting centres. However, there is one statistic that cannot be ignored: around 50% of Diamond Engagement Rings purchased in the United States now contain a Lab Grown Diamond (LGD). Is this just another cyclical downturn or are we in the middle of a major structural change?

Diamonds were once the preserve of royalty and the uber-wealthy, but the diamond market has evolved over the past 80 years into more of a mass market product with democratisation of the diamond consumer. Since the late 1970s most polished diamonds below 5 carats were priced against the 4 ‘C’s’ (carat, clarity, colour and cut), which led to standardised pricing in the form of polished diamond pricing lists. Up until the turn of the century these lists were primarily available in the wholesale market, but the arrival of internet pricing soon gave the consumer access to that same standardised pricing. In a world where everyone knows the price of everything, branding is the only differentiator. Without a differentiator, commoditised products end up selling for the lowest price.

It was why one of the questions that De Beers tried to answer when it changed its business model 25 years ago was: “How do you take a necessity (the diamond) priced like a commodity and market it as a luxury priced like a brand?”

Unfortunately, that question remains unanswered. The industry did create hundreds of so-called ‘brands’; origin, cut, settings, etc; the problem was that very few of them were real “brands”. If something does not sell at a premium, it’s not a brand, and most natural diamonds sell at a discount, yet the more that the industry was unable to achieve a premium, the more it becomes fixated with talking about the “product” when the luxury world has spent the last 25 years talking about “values”.

The challenge for most jewellers is not making a sale, it is making a reasonable margin. Ask a jeweller what they are selling and if they reply “VS1, G-H colour, loose polished, 1-caraters” then the most relevant word in their business will be “discounting”, because what they are selling is a commoditised version of “crystallised carbon.” There is no differentiator.

The LGD industry realised that to succeed it simply needed to persuade consumers that natural diamonds and LGDs were the same – “optically, physically and chemically”, but to also position them as “slightly cheaper”. They could then ride on the back of 80 years of De Beers diamond advertising differentiate themselves by claiming that LGDs were “conflict free”.

A larger “ethical” LGD for the same money as a natural diamond or pay less for the same size, created a money printing machine for everyone involved. And it’s no surprise that LGDs real success has been in the United States, because historically America has always been a “discount market”, and “larger for less” plays to that tune.

If all you want in a diamond is the sparkle, then they are in essence the same. Except there is a very real difference between the two, which is why some LGD executives insist on calling natural diamonds “earth mined” diamonds, because “natural” is exactly what differentiates them. The story of their age, rarity, origin; their social and economic contribution but above all, their “social purpose”. It was the failure of the natural diamond industry to tell that story which opened the door to LGDs.

When LGD production exploded, wholesale prices collapsed to around a 95% to 98% discount to their natural diamond equivalent. Prices vary according to quality, but anecdotal evidence suggests that today in the wholesale market, it is possible to buy a single polished LGD for $150 a carat, buy in volume and its possible to pay as low as $80 a carat.

Many retailers have also dropped their LGD prices, but by no means as far, and even pricing LGD at a 20-40% discount to their natural diamond equivalent can still leave a very significant margin. Pandora will sell you a 1-carat LGD ring for $1,950. Helzberg Jewellers (a Warren Buffet company) will sell you a similar LGD for $1,999. It’s very likely that some in the LGD industry are making a gross margin of 200%, some much more for a product that Signet Jewellers sensibly cautiones it customers “Their relative abundance may not ensure the value will hold over time”.

Whatever happens to future LGD retail prices, the category has got itself into the American consumer psyche and that won’t easily change, although there are also two sides to this story. I heard of a jeweller who was recently asked by a HNWI to make a replica of her 8-carat natural diamond ring so she could wear it travelling. The original ring cost $500,000 but he sourced an equivalent LGD for $5,000, and apparently she was absolutely thrilled with it. The question is, will she buy natural again? On the other hand, if in the future a consumer could buy (for example) a 2-carat LGD engagement ring for below $200, how pleased would their fiancé be to receive it – Walmart recently had a 2-carat LGD ring for sale for only $257. How romantic!

The US bridal market (size over quality) is dominated by larger, lower quality diamonds. Since similar sized LGDs are cheaper (or you get a much better quality LGD), either that market disappears, or demand only reappears aner prices have fallen sharply (already happened). It is also likely that LGDs will replace small, lower quality natural diamonds in fashion jewellery – as they may replace the smaller stones in high-end pieces of natural diamond jewellery. Diamond mining companies whose profitability rely on these categories of diamonds probably need to find a new value proposition, or their days may be numbered.

For those in the natural diamond industry who can adapt, there is huge potential. For those that don’t, as the saying goes, “Kodak never saw it coming either”.

Except Kodak did see it coming; they just didn’t know what to do about it. Kodak was killed off by digital photography which ironically, they invented, patented, but didn’t know how to exploit it, so they franchised the technology and made a fortune until their patents expired, and then went bust. Have LGDs done the same to natural diamonds? “No”, the opposite; their success is forcing a complacent industry to change. Have they changed the paradigm? “Completely”.

Source: DCLA

Falling prices, low consumer trust, imports issues for lab-grown diamond: GTRI

New Delhi: India’s lab-grown diamond industry is facing challenges such as significant fall in prices, eroding consumer interest and competition from imports, think tank Global Trade Research Initiative (GTRI) said Sunday, adding said that though India faces the issue of production overcapacity, it continues to import in large amounts and this issue needs deeper investigation.

To address these challenges, the government needs to take certain steps such as setting clear and consistent rules to standardize quality, certification, and market practices; issuing a Quality Control Order to check quality of imports; and investment in research and development to improve production processes, reduce costs, and enhance the quality of lab-grown diamonds.

As per the report, India’s lab-grown diamond industry is facing a major challenge, with prices falling by 65% in the past year to Rs 20,000 per carat from Rs 60,000 due to local overproduction and oversupply from abroad, which points to problems like overproduction, high imports, and lack of regulation. The number of units producing lab-grown diamonds in India has increased to 10,000 units, leading to over supply and tougher competition.

The industry lacks clear regulations checking such practices, making it hard to ensure quality. Lack of proper certification, and low trust market operations could slow down the industry’s growth, according to GTRI founder Ajay Srivastava.

He added that 98% of India’s imports of rough lab-grown diamonds come from Hong Kong (63.7% or $728.2 million) and the UAE (28.5% or $326 million).

In FY24, India imported rough lab-grown diamonds worth $1.14 billion and exported cut and polished ones worth $1.3 billion.

Natural diamonds cost around Rs 3.5 lakh per carat and this price drop is making it difficult for manufacturers to repay loans taken for purchasing lab-grown diamond making machines, putting them under financial strain, GTRI said.

Source: DCLA

Fraudster Switches $2,000 Lab Grown for $545,000 Natural Diamond

Police in Surat, India, are investigating an alleged switch, in which a “buyer” replaced a 10.08-carat natural diamond, valued at $545,000, with a near-worthless lab grown replica.

The “buyer” examined the heart-shaped D / VVS2 stone and its GIA certificate, agreed terms and put down a $12,000 down payment to secure the purchase.

He left, saying he needed to withdraw money – and has not been seen since.

The owner of the diamond soon realized he’d been left with a lab grown replica of identical shape, color and weight, but worth less than $2,000.

Police say they are pursuing the “buyer” and at least two accomplices, according to a report in the Economic Times.

Source: DCLA

Why lab-grown diamond success could end up helping natural diamonds – Paul Zimnisky

Declining profits for lab grown diamonds could push retailers into a natural diamond pivot, said Paul Zimnisky, an independent diamond industry analyst.

Last week Zimnisky spoke to Kitco Mining.

The diamond market has been in a tough spot due to declining sales. In September Petra Diamonds reported full-year revenue declined 44%. In February Lucara Diamond announced full year revenue was down 16%, adding that the diamond market is a “volatile environment with market challenges coming from multiple areas.” Storied diamond company De Beers is being sold off by parent Anglo American, which is restructuring after rebuffing a takeover by BHP.

Demographics and growing market share by lab grown diamonds are part of the challenge, said Zimnisky, but exclusivity and rarity of natural diamonds could end up helping. Innovations in production have led jewelers to cut the costs of lab grown diamonds. That may lead jewelers to pivot and prioritize selling natural diamonds over lab grown, said Zimnisky.

“The catalyst could be declining profitability of selling lab grown diamonds, ” said Z. “[That] could incentivize retailers to really push natural diamonds again. That has the potential to be a very positive development for natural diamond industry.”

Source: DCLA

Lab Grown Diamonds Market Projected to Hit $59.5 Bn by 2032 with Strongest Growth in Asia Pacific Region

According to Vantage Market Research the Global Lab Grown Diamonds Market Size is expected to reach a value of USD 27.2 Billion in 2023. The Lab Grown Diamonds Market is projected to showcase a CAGR of 9.1% from 2024 to 2032 and is estimated to be valued at USD 59.5 Billion by 2032.

The lab-grown diamonds market has emerged as a formidable force within the diamond industry, captivating consumers with its ethical and sustainable approach to creating stunning gemstones. Unlike mined diamonds, which are extracted from the earth through an environmentally impactful process, lab-grown diamonds are meticulously crafted in controlled laboratory environments.

This innovative technology replicates the natural diamond formation process, resulting in stones with the same physical, chemical, and optical properties as their mined counterparts. The burgeoning lab-grown diamond market is fueled by a confluence of factors, including rising environmental consciousness, evolving consumer preferences, technological advancements, and increasing disposable incomes.

Read more: Einnews

AGTA Bans Lab-Grown Diamonds, Gemstones at GemFair

The American Gem Trade Association announced that, starting at Tucson next year, exhibitors will not be allowed to sell lab-grown diamonds or colored gemstones at the AGTA GemFair.

National Jeweler received a news release on AGTA’s decision via email Wednesday morning. The release also was posted on the AGTA website, though it had been removed by Wednesday evening.

AGTA CEO John W. Ford Sr. said the news release was “pulled by error,” and would be reposted today.

According to the release, AGTA’s new rule bans the display of loose gemstones or jewelry “comprising non-natural gemstones, ones that are man-made, synthetic, or lab grown.”

AGTA said its dealers can still sell lab-grown gems if they are disclosed, but only natural gems can be made available for purchase at GemFair.

The association said it enacted the ban to “thwart potential confusion,” confusion it sees happening in the lab-grown diamond industry and fears will affect the colored gemstone industry, even though lab-grown colored stones have been around for more than a century.

When asked what led to the belief that confusion was occurring, or could occur, in the colored gemstone market, Ford said in an email to National Jeweler, “Look no further than the chaos created by synthetics in the diamond industry … Our action is also in response to considerable concerns voiced by AGTA membership in relation to the adverse effects that synthetics could also potentially cause in the colored gemstone industry.”

While the AGTA’s decision has made headlines, it does not seem poised to have a big impact on AGTA GemFair exhibitors, few of whom sell lab-grown gemstones anyway.

In his email, Ford said out of the 260 exhibitors of loose or set gemstones at the 2024 AGTA GemFair Tucson, only two list that they sell synthetic gemstones in the AGTA Source Directory.

“Since sending out over (260) 2025 AGTA GemFair Tucson renewals, we’ve had an overwhelmingly positive response from the vast majority of our exhibitors, greatly outweighing any negative responses,” he said.

Related stories will be right here …

In its news release, AGTA also noted that lab-grown gemstones lack the value inherent to natural gemstones, which are rare and sometimes inimitable.

“AGTA felt that it needed to be crystal clear to buyers that when they attend an AGTA show, they know that they are only shopping mined natural gems from the earth,” said Kimberly Collins, AGTA board president and owner of Kimberly Collins Colored Gems.

“AGTA dealers pride themselves in sourcing superior gems that are rare, beautiful, and natural.”

AGTA also notes that “synthetic gems are not minerals.”

The association said it recognizes two definitions of the word “mineral”—that of the British Geological Survey, defining a mineral as “a naturally occurring substance with distinctive chemical and physical properties, composition, and atomic structure” and that of the U.S. Geological Survey, which defines a mineral as a “naturally occurring inorganic element or compound having an orderly internal structure and characteristic chemical composition, crystal form, and physical properties.”

“The definitions are essentially the same, but the keyword in both that is important is use of the word ‘natural,’” said AGTA board member John Bradshaw.

“It’s important to indicate that synthetic gems are not considered minerals, because minerals are natural, and synthetics are not.”

Source: Nationaljeweler

Supercomputer Cracks Mystery of How To Make “Super-Diamond”

Diamond is one of the hardest materials on Earth, as its super-strong carbon lattice structure makes it incredibly resistant to compression.

Theoretical predictions suggest there is another structural form of carbon out there that could surpass diamond in hardness – the problem is, nobody has ever been able to make it.

Now, simulations performed using the fastest exascale supercomputer in the world are helping researchers better understand the stability of diamond at very high pressures. These simulations are also helping create new potential synthesis methods that could one day see this “super-diamond” become a reality. The research is published in the Journal of Physical Chemistry Letters.

Is BC8 diamond 2.0?
The basis for this hypothetical “super-diamond” is the eight-atom body-centered cubic (BC8) crystal structure. BC8 is a tetragonally bonded structure that packs atoms even more efficiently than the face-centered cubic (FCC) structure of traditional diamond. BC8 phases for both silicon and germanium have been synthesized at high pressures – and successfully recovered to ambient conditions – but the same is not true for carbon.

“The BC8 phase of carbon at ambient conditions would be a new super-hard material that would likely be tougher than diamond,” said senior study author Ivan Oleynik, a physics professor at the University of South Florida (USF).

“The BC8 structure maintains this perfect tetrahedral nearest-neighbor shape, but without the cleavage planes found in the diamond structure,” explained Jon Eggert, study co-author and chief scientist at the Lawrence Livermore National Laboratory (LLNL) High Energy Density Science (HEDS) Center. Eggert agrees with Oleynik that “the BC8 phase of carbon at ambient conditions would likely be much tougher than diamond.”

Theoretical predictions indicate that a BC8 phase of carbon is possible – and that it would be around 30% more resistant to compression than diamond – but so far scientists have been unable to produce it in a lab.

One step closer to lab-grown super-diamond
For this new study, the team was able to carry out multi-million atomic molecular dynamics simulations on Frontier, the fastest exascale supercomputer in the world. These simulations were designed to investigate the extreme metastability of diamond at very high pressures, in conditions that well-exceeded its known range of thermodynamic stability.

This new research was possible thanks to the recent development of very accurate machine learning models for interatomic potentials. These simulations can describe interactions between individual atoms with unprecedented accuracy, even when considering very high-pressure and high-temperature systems.

“By efficiently implementing this potential on GPU-based (graphics processing unit) Frontier, we can now accurately simulate the time evolution of billions of carbon atoms under extreme conditions at experimental time and length scales,” Oleynik said. “We predicted that the post-diamond BC8 phase would be experimentally accessible only within a narrow high-pressure, high-temperature region of the carbon phase diagram.”

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The simulation showed that, at pressures above 10 million atmospheres and temperatures above 4000 Kelvin, the BC8 carbon phase is the most stable form of carbon.

The significance of this is two-fold, the researchers explain. Firstly, this explains the previous failed attempts to synthesize the elusive BC8 phase of carbon seeing as it is only stable under a very narrow range of temperatures and pressures. But it also allows for further predictions of viable compression pathways that might make BC8 synthesis achievable.

Based on their simulations, the research team has proposed a double-shock compression pathway for BC8 synthesis, which is currently being explored in further experiments at the LLNL’s National Ignition Facility. Their ultimate goal is to be able to synthesize a small amount of this BC8 “super-diamond” and then find a way to recover a seed crystal of the material back to ambient conditions.

Super-diamond could already be hiding in distant exoplanets
Investigating the properties of “super-diamond” is important, not just because scientists love it when there is a mystery to solve.

Astrophysical observations have discovered a number of carbon-rich exoplanets beyond our solar system. The ultra-high pressures in the interior of these planets may be enough to form diamond as well as the BC8 phase of carbon, the researchers believe.

“Consequently, the extreme conditions prevailing within these carbon-rich exoplanets may give rise to structural forms of carbon such as diamond and BC8,” Oleynik said. “Therefore, an in-depth understanding of the properties of the BC8 carbon phase becomes critical for the development of accurate interior models of these exoplanets.”

Reference: Nguyen-Cong K, Willman JT, Gonzalez JM, et al. Extreme metastability of diamond and its transformation to the BC8 post-diamond phase of carbon. J Phys Chem Lett. 2024

Source: technologynetworks

Brilliant Earth Reports Record Revenue for 2023

Brilliant Earth’s sales grew 4% year on year to $124.3 million in the fourth quarter amid a record number of orders.

The 18% increase in individual orders offset a 12% decline in the average value per sale during the three months that ended December 31, the retailer said last week. Net profit for the period fell 69% to $1.9 million.

Engagement rings were one of the top sellers for the company, with demand for those above $10,000 increasing year-on-year in the fourth quarter, Brilliant Earth CEO Beth Gerstein said last week in an earnings call, transcribed by Seeking Alpha. The average sales price for engagement rings was up 4% year-on-year during the three months.

Additionally, new campaigns featuring celebrities and influencers brought in consumers. The launch of Brilliant Earth’s Sol collection, in partnership with Emmy-nominated actress Camilla Morrone, proved popular, with productivity “far outpacing” that of prior collection launches, Gerstein explained. The company’s new lab-grown Capture collection, made with synthetic diamonds manufactured using 100% renewable energy, also “resonated strongly” with consumers, it said.

For the full-year, sales rose 1.5% to $446.4 million, while net profit dropped 75% to $4.7 million.

Brilliant Earth expects sales for the first quarter of 2024 to reach between $96.5 million and $98.5 million, ranging from a decrease of 1% to growth of 1%, chief financial officer Jeff Kuo noted on the earnings call. For the full year, net sales are anticipated to rise 2% to 5% to between $455 million and $469 million.

Source: DCLA