Showing posts with label lab-grown diamond. Show all posts
Showing posts with label lab-grown diamond. Show all posts

Friday, 11 September 2026

Lab-Grown Diamonds: Is the Era of Falling Prices Coming to an End?

 Rising production costs, energy consumption and shrinking margins could change the economics of the lab-grown diamond industry

Rising production costs, energy consumption and shrinking margins could change the economics of the lab-grown diamond industry

For several years, the lab-grown diamond industry has been defined by one dominant story: falling prices.

What was once promoted as a lower-cost alternative to natural diamonds has become dramatically cheaper as manufacturers around the world expanded production capacity. In India, which has become one of the world’s major lab-grown diamond manufacturing and polishing centres, the rapid growth in production has created intense competition and severe pressure on margins.

But the economics of the industry may now be reaching an important turning point.

Recent developments in Surat suggest that manufacturers and traders are increasingly concerned that prices and discounts have fallen too far.

At a meeting of the Surat Lab Grown Diamond Association on September 7, industry participants called for greater discipline in pricing and an end to aggressive discounting. Reports from India said polished lab-grown diamond prices had recently increased by approximately 20% to 25%, while traders were reducing discounts from around 7% to approximately 3% to 4%.

This does not necessarily mean that lab-grown diamond prices are about to return to previous levels.

Instead, it may signal something more fundamental: the industry is beginning to confront the cost of actually producing a diamond.

A decade of falling prices

The scale of the price decline has been extraordinary.

According to data reported by the Times of India, India’s average export value for polished lab-grown diamonds fell from approximately US$246 per carat in 2016–17 to around US$60 per carat in 2025–26.

During 2025–26, India exported approximately 18.8 million carats of polished lab-grown diamonds, up substantially in volume, while the total export value fell to approximately US$1.133 billion.

That means the industry was producing and exporting significantly more diamonds while receiving considerably less per carat.

The same report found that the average export value had improved to almost US$69 per carat during April and May 2026, suggesting that the long decline may have started to stabilise.

The latest developments in Surat provide another indication that the market may be attempting to establish a floor.

The problem with selling below cost

The Surat Lab Grown Diamond Association has warned that excessive discounting is damaging manufacturers’ earnings.

Association president Babu Vaghani reportedly said that continued price reductions were reducing manufacturers’ profits and putting pressure on wages.

The concern is straightforward.

A diamond manufacturer has to pay for:

  • sophisticated growing equipment
  • electricity
  • cooling systems
  • gases such as hydrogen and methane for CVD production
  • diamond seed plates
  • maintenance
  • skilled technicians
  • factory buildings
  • financing and equipment depreciation
  • cutting and polishing
  • grading and certification
  • rejected or lower-quality production
  • logistics and administration

If the finished diamond is continually sold for less, eventually something has to give.

Manufacturers can reduce margins, reduce wages, reduce investment, reduce production or leave the industry altogether.

Reports from Surat indicate that some polishing units have already considered moving into other industries as prolonged price erosion has reduced earnings and contributed to skilled-worker shortages.

Energy: the hidden cost of a laboratory diamond

One of the most important factors in understanding the future cost of lab-grown diamonds is energy.

Lab-grown diamonds are not simply manufactured like an ordinary consumer product. They are grown under highly controlled conditions using enormous amounts of technology, heat, pressure, vacuum systems, plasma and cooling.

There are two principal technologies used to grow gem-quality laboratory diamonds: HPHT, or High Pressure High Temperature, and CVD, or Chemical Vapour Deposition.

DCLA’s information on synthetic diamonds and laboratory-grown diamond certification explains the technologies used to produce laboratory-grown diamonds and the importance of identifying their origin.

The Gemological Institute of America explains that HPHT involves temperatures of approximately 1,300°C to 1,600°C and pressures exceeding 870,000 pounds per square inch. CVD uses a vacuum chamber, gases and an energy source to create a plasma in which carbon atoms are deposited onto diamond seed plates.

For CVD production in particular, electricity is a critical ongoing input because the reactor, plasma generation, vacuum equipment, pumps and cooling systems must operate for extended periods.

Research into synthetic diamond production has identified electricity as a major environmental and production hotspot for microwave-CVD manufacturing.

The exact electricity consumption varies considerably depending on equipment, efficiency, production scale, cooling systems and operating conditions. Published estimates range from several dozen kilowatt-hours per carat to substantially more in less-efficient systems.

One recent technical analysis estimates modern HPHT production at around 36 kWh per carat under particular operating conditions, while CVD systems can vary substantially, with some commercial systems using around 77 kWh per carat and less-efficient systems exceeding 200 kWh per carat. These figures should be treated as indicative rather than a universal industry standard.

The important point is not one particular number.

It is that electricity is a recurring cost for every diamond produced.

Once a manufacturing plant has been built, the machines still have to run.

Why energy could become a price driver

This is where the economics become particularly interesting.

The initial investment in a laboratory-grown diamond factory is largely a capital cost. The manufacturer buys reactors, presses, vacuum equipment, cooling systems, power infrastructure and other machinery.

Once the factory is operating, however, the manufacturer faces continuing costs.

Electricity is one of them.

Unlike the purchase of a machine, electricity cannot be depreciated away. Every production cycle consumes power.

That means energy prices can have a direct effect on the minimum economic price at which a manufacturer can operate.

If electricity prices increase, production costs rise.

If manufacturers are already operating on very small margins, they may have little ability to absorb those increases.

The effect can be particularly significant for producers using electricity-intensive CVD or HPHT systems for long production cycles.

This creates an important potential turning point for the lab-grown diamond industry.

The lower the selling price becomes, the more important the underlying production cost becomes.

At some point, manufacturers have to decide whether producing another carat is economically worthwhile.

The economics of oversupply

The spectacular fall in lab-grown diamond prices was not caused simply by consumers suddenly deciding that diamonds were worth less.

A major factor has been the expansion of production capacity.

India alone produced more than 3 million lab-grown diamonds in 2023 and accounted for more than 15% of global output, according to India’s NITI Aayog.

Other major production centres, particularly China, also expanded capacity.

The result was a classic supply-and-demand problem.

When production capacity grows faster than consumer demand, manufacturers compete for buyers.

One manufacturer reduces its price.

Another offers a discount.

A trader offers an additional discount.

A broker undercuts another broker.

The process can continue until the market price is significantly below the level manufacturers originally expected.

This is precisely why the recent call from Surat for an end to excessive discounting is significant.

The industry is effectively saying that price competition has gone too far.

DCLA has previously examined this broader transformation in the diamond industry in its article on lab-grown diamonds as a structural disruption to the traditional diamond industry.

The cost floor

Every manufactured product has an economic cost floor.

That does not mean prices can never fall below the cost of production. Companies can sell inventory at a loss, factories can operate below capacity and distressed businesses can liquidate stock.

But those conditions cannot continue indefinitely.

If manufacturers consistently lose money, production capacity eventually disappears.

Machines are switched off.

Investment stops.

Workers leave.

Companies close or move into other businesses.

Supply then begins to contract.

This is potentially what the lab-grown diamond industry is now trying to avoid.

The Times of India reported that persistent price erosion has already forced some polishing units to consider alternative industries and has placed pressure on wages.

Could this lead to higher lab-grown diamond prices?

Possibly — but it is important not to confuse a price stabilisation with a return to the prices of several years ago.

There are still enormous production capacities around the world, and technological improvements can continue to reduce manufacturing costs.

Competition also remains intense.

However, the recent 20% to 25% reported increase in polished prices in Surat, combined with the reduction in discounts from approximately 7% to 3%–4%, suggests that parts of the industry are already attempting to establish greater pricing discipline.

If manufacturers continue to reduce production, consolidate capacity or refuse to sell below sustainable levels, prices could eventually find a stronger floor.

Energy costs could become an important part of that floor.

Why energy matters more as prices fall

There is an interesting economic paradox here.

When lab-grown diamonds were expensive, energy represented only one component of a much larger selling price.

As the selling price falls dramatically, however, every operating cost becomes proportionally more important.

Imagine a manufacturer producing a diamond at a total cost of $100 per carat.

Selling it for $200 leaves room for overheads, financing and profit.

Selling it for $120 leaves very little.

Selling it for $90 creates a loss.

The actual numbers vary enormously between manufacturers, technologies, electricity prices, yields and diamond specifications. Therefore, there is no single industry-wide production cost that can be applied to every lab-grown diamond.

But the economic principle remains the same.

There is a point at which further price reductions stop being sustainable.

The next phase of the lab-grown diamond market

The laboratory-grown diamond industry may therefore be entering a different phase.

The first phase was technological.

Could diamonds be grown commercially in laboratories?

The second phase was expansion.

How quickly could manufacturers increase production?

The third phase was price competition.

How cheaply could those diamonds be sold?

The next phase may be about economics.

How cheaply can a diamond realistically be produced while still providing a sustainable return to the manufacturer?

That question could become increasingly important.

The industry has already demonstrated that laboratory-grown diamonds can be produced at dramatically lower prices than natural diamonds.

What it has not yet demonstrated is where the long-term sustainable price floor lies.

Energy will be one of the factors determining that answer.

So will equipment depreciation, financing, labour, gases, seeds, yields, polishing, grading and the cost of maintaining sophisticated manufacturing facilities.

What this means for consumers

For consumers, lower lab-grown diamond prices have been an obvious advantage.

They have made larger and higher-specification diamonds accessible to a much wider market.

But consumers should also understand that cheap does not necessarily mean the price cannot fall further — and it does not mean the price cannot eventually rise.

The current market is still evolving.

The recent developments in Surat suggest that manufacturers are increasingly unwilling to continue absorbing falling margins and aggressive discounts.

If production is reduced and pricing discipline improves, the market could begin to stabilise.

If energy and other operating costs rise at the same time, those costs could become increasingly important in determining the minimum sustainable price of a lab-grown diamond.

The DCLA view

For consumers, the most important point remains understanding exactly what they are buying.

A laboratory-grown diamond is a real diamond with essentially the same chemical composition and crystal structure as a natural diamond, but its origin is different.

DCLA’s recent article, Natural or Laboratory-Grown? How Can You Tell What Diamond Is in Your Ring?, explains why laboratory-grown and natural diamonds can be difficult to distinguish visually and why independent laboratory testing is important.

DCLA recommends independent diamond identification and certification where appropriate, particularly when establishing whether a diamond is natural or laboratory-grown.

The DCLA Diamond Grading Report records important characteristics including carat weight, colour, clarity, measurements, treatments and whether the diamond is natural or laboratory-grown.

The laboratory-grown diamond industry has undergone an extraordinary period of technological development and price compression.

The next question is whether it can achieve something arguably more difficult:

long-term economic stability.

If manufacturers can no longer operate profitably at today’s heavily discounted prices, and if energy and other production costs continue to rise, the economics of the industry suggest that prices may eventually have to move higher or production capacity will have to contract.

The recent events in Surat may be an early indication that this process has already begun.

Tuesday, 11 August 2026

From rare treasure to 'never-ending supply': What happened to diamonds?

 Once upon a time, a diamond engagement ring was a powerful symbol of social status: the bigger the rock, the greater its cachet.

The price of diamonds has plunged and supply has surged, disrupting one of the world’s most enduring marketing stories.

Once upon a time, a diamond engagement ring was a powerful symbol of social status: the bigger the rock, the greater its cachet.

Today, ring owners posting in social media forums will often voice a different sentiment: “Does this look too big?”

The diamond industry has undergone an unprecedented shake-up in recent years due to the exploding popularity of lab-grown gems.

The price of a one-carat natural diamond has more than halved since the start of 2022, according to US industry data.

Last month, De Beers — the company that helped define the diamond industry and monopolised it for decades — suspended production at South Africa’s biggest diamond mine, citing a need to cut costs amid challenging market conditions.

It’s the latest sign that the once-booming industry is at a crossroads as collapsing diamond prices force mining behemoths to close mines, delay new projects and suspend production.

At the heart of the upheaval is a physically identical product that has upended one of the most successful luxury marketing stories ever told.

Lab-grown diamonds are real diamonds — chemically and visually identical to those found deep underground.

But rather than forming inside the Earth over a billion years or more, lab gems are created by scientists using one of two primary methods — High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT) or Chemical Vapour Deposition (CVD) — to recreate the conditions under which carbon crystallises into diamond.

It takes a matter of weeks.

How did the story of a gem forged over billions of years, and sold for generations as a symbol of rarity and exclusivity, change so dramatically in just a decade?

A history of diamond-making

After years of experimentation, the first proven human-made diamonds were created in the 1950s.

At the time, there was little concern that they could become serious competition for natural diamonds.

The early synthetic stones were small, brown and of poor quality for use in jewellery, instead used for industrial purposes such as manufacturing.

It wasn’t until the 1970s that General Electric, the American company that pioneered synthetic diamond technology, produced the first gem-quality lab diamonds.

But the technology was still too expensive to make lab diamonds commercially viable for jewellery, and the stones weren’t graded highly under gem colour and clarity standards.

Infographic explaining how to grow a diamond via CVD
A ‘diamond seed’ is a tiny, microscopic slice of diamond.

As the technology continued to improve, a turning point arrived in 2007: the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), the world’s leading independent authority on gem-grade diamonds, officially recognised lab diamonds.

The GIA began issuing reports for lab gems that year, but they represented only a tiny fraction of diamonds submitted for grading — around 0.05 per cent.

A decade later, lab-grown diamonds still only accounted for a small share of the global market.

But in the last few years, they’ve erupted into the mainstream.

Paul Zimnisky, a leading independent diamond industry analyst based in New York City, says the influx of lab gems has dramatically altered the global market.

“The technology to make those diamonds has rapidly improved, and the price to make them has come down substantially,” Zimnisky tells SBS News.

As the price has come down, that’s when I’ve really seen consumer demand pick up for the man-made diamonds, and that I would say happened within the last five years in a big way.

In 2016, a one-carat natural diamond would retail in the US for around $9,380, while a lab-grown stone of the same cut and clarity would cost $7,820, according to Zimnisky’s data.

Today, the natural diamond retails for $4,900 while the equivalent lab stone can be bought for around $850 or less.

Zimnisky estimates lab-grown stones now account for around a third of the global diamond jewellery market.

A graph showing the dropping prices of lab and natural diamonds over time.
Credit: Paul Zimnisky data and analysis

In the US, the world’s largest consumer market for diamonds, six in 10 engaged couples opted for a lab diamond last year, according to annual survey data from wedding planning website The Knot.

That was a 239 per cent increase from the site’s 2020 survey.

At the same time, as lab diamonds are shifting consumer trends, they are also changing global manufacturing and production flows.

With production costs declining, manufacturers in China and India have expanded at an unprecedented scale.

In China, which dominates the global production market, the central province of Henan has become known as the nation’s “diamond capital”. In the city of Zhecheng’s many factories, hundreds of machines work around the clock to produce millions of carats each year.

Today, even experts say they can’t distinguish between a natural or lab-grown diamond without specialised equipment.

Infographic breaking down how to grow a diamond via HPHT

“The only way to tell the difference is either through the laser inscription, which is usually engraved on the girdle of the diamond, or through a certificate which is associated with the diamond,” Michael Cohen, managing director of the Diamond Certification Laboratory of Australia, tells SBS News.

“Other than that, you need to put it to a laboratory to actually know the difference. It’s not possible to actually see it visually through a microscope, through basic testing, even your countertop retail test.”

But De Beers has been working to change that.

The London-headquartered multinational has developed a suite of advanced screening machines, costing from around $7,900 to more than $35,000, which allow diamond sellers to distinguish between natural and lab-grown diamonds by analysing microscopic signatures left behind by their different growth processes.

The technology forms part of the company’s broader effort to persuade consumers that a diamond’s origin, rather than its composition, is an important part of its story.

The rise of the big diamond

As larger diamonds have become more affordable and visible on social media, demand for smaller stones of one carat or less has slowed.

Designs that were once reserved for celebrities and the ultra-wealthy are now well within reach for many middle-income earners.

And it’s not just the price that’s more attractive: ethical concerns over the origin of gems have been offset by the lab-grown model, which does not rely on mining or supply chains that pass through conflict zones.

On Reddit forums, it’s now common to see everyday people asking whether a diamond looks “too big” or ostentatious on their finger.

At the same time, some owners of natural diamonds have posted on social media worried that people will assume their ring is lab-grown as large diamonds become increasingly prevalent.

A graph showing the price of three-carat diamonds over time.

It reflects a generational change in consumer sentiment — one that is fast becoming an identity crisis for the natural diamond industry.

De Beers launched its own lab-grown jewellery brand in 2018 but shuttered it last year to focus on its original product.

It has outlined a plan to invest in emotionally driven campaigns that emphasise the rarity and origin of natural diamonds.

Cohen says the company realised it was giving lab-grown diamonds credibility by selling them under the De Beers banner, but its exit did little to slow demand.

Jana Bowden is a professor of marketing and consumer behaviour at Macquarie University, and says much of the identity crisis faced by major brands stems from the historical emphasis on a diamond’s exclusivity.

“Diamonds have always been seen as an absolute status symbol,” she says.

“So much of this has been driven by the perceived rarity and exclusivity of the diamonds, and of course the controlled supply of diamonds through the market, and particularly De Beers as being the pinnacle brand with the most control of the market and supply.”

From rare to abundant: The ‘forever’ diamond

At its peak in the 1980s, De Beers controlled nearly 90 per cent of the global diamond market.

Its tight control of the world’s diamond supply allowed it to stockpile excess diamonds and manage how many entered the market at any time, helping to keep prices elevated.

Through its marketing, the company famously built the idea that a diamond is rare, “forever”, and the ultimate expression of love, turning diamond engagement rings into a social norm.

It also molded societal expectations around how much an engagement ring should cost.

“Isn’t two months’ salary a small price to pay for something that lasts forever?” a 1980s De Beers ad asked.

Bowden says historic luxury brands like De Beers built lasting perceptions in consumers’ minds.

Really, we’ve been taught and we have learnt how to incorporate diamonds into our lives. This is not something that existed prior to the clever marketing campaigns.

Although diamonds are now far from rare, Bowden says many of those perceptions persist — but the market is splitting in two.

“Interestingly, the legacy branding that’s come from the original, traditional mining of diamonds is also now naturally transferred to lab diamonds as well. So consumers still have that association with exclusivity or a milestone.”

Bowden says the lab-grown diamond market is increasingly appealing to younger consumers, who are often more financially constrained and ethically motivated than older generations.

Two diamond rings side by side.
A three-carat natural diamond (left) and a three-carat lab-grown diamond (right) side by side. Source: Getty / Picture alliance

Ms Elangovan, 33, who asked to omit her first name to protect her privacy, tells SBS News she has accumulated more than 10 lab-grown and natural diamonds in her jewellery collection over the past decade or so.

While she’s fascinated by the history and rarity of a natural diamond, she can no longer justify the price when she can buy a “virtually flawless” lab equivalent at a fraction of the price.

“When I look at it, I’m like, ‘Oh, this existed millions of years before me, and it probably would [for] millions of years after me,” she says of natural diamonds.

“So on that point, labs can’t compete.”

But ultimately, she says she’s thrilled to be living in an age where beautiful jewels are accessible to more people.

“I’m intrigued [that] someone can just recreate millions of years of process in a lab,” she says.

“It’s a fascinating industry. I’m just happy I’m alive now, so I can have really pretty jewellery at a very affordable price and ethically sourced.”

Can the mined diamond industry recover?

The natural diamond industry is now facing headwinds from multiple directions.

Changing consumer spending priorities, skyrocketing operational costs, geopolitical uncertainty, and declining diamond yields have all contributed to mines closing or suspending production in recent years.

Some mines were approaching the end of their lifespan regardless, but plummeting diamond prices and the enormous cost to open new mines have made it harder to justify investment in new projects.

Diamond mines under pressure

“I think the natural diamond industry has to collect itself and come up with a strategy to further differentiate its product from lab-grown diamonds,” Zimnisky says, adding that the industry must give consumers a compelling reason to pay 10 times as much for a natural stone.

He notes that De Beers is currently up for sale by its parent company, Anglo American, with a potential deal expected this year.

The new owner’s arrival will be “an interesting catalyst” for the industry, he says.

I think they’re probably going to pretty aggressively try to kind of reignite interest and demand and emotional appeal for natural diamonds.

For now, unless prices double or triple over the next decade, Zimnisky doesn’t expect to see significant investment in new mines or the reopening of suspended operations.

Cohen, who has worked in the industry for more than 40 years, says there’ll now be a “never-ending supply” of lab diamonds. But he expects prices may eventually increase as the significant energy required to produce them becomes more expensive — which could potentially create new ethical concerns for consumers.

He believes diamond mining will eventually come to an end, but the market for natural diamonds will endure.

“The biggest supply of diamonds will no longer come from the mine, but it’ll come from the second-hand markets,” he says.

“The diamonds don’t get destroyed. As they say, a diamond is forever.”

Credit sbs.com.au

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