Monday, 23 March 2026

De Beers Slashes Number of Sightholders

 De Beers rough diamond Sight

De Beers has reportedly slashed the number of sightholders who can buy their goods by as much as a third, as it seeks to consolidate supply among a small core of stronger buyers.

The number of sightholders is understood to have been reduced from 69 to around 45, although De Beers has not confirmed numbers. Sightholders were informed by letter or phone call on Friday, 20 March.

It is the second biggest cut, in percentage terms, since sights were launched back in 1934. The number of De Beers sightholders peaked at around 350 in the 1970s.

It was halved in April 2001 as the company sought to prioritize value-driven buyers over sheer volume of sales.

De Beers warned current sightholders back in October 2024 that it would be terminating some of their supply agreements, by way of what it called an objective selection and allocation process.

Existing contracts, signed in 2021 and extended last year through June 30, 2026, end soon, paving the way for the new roster starting July 1.

The cutback suggests that the loss-making miner is repositioning itself for survival in a weaker market by creating a limited customer base that can reliably take volume in tough times.

Anglo American’s repeated De Beers write-downs (the latest by $2.3bn in February 2026) underscore the loss-making reality. De Beers CEO Al Cook emphasized “quality over quantity” in late 2024, aiming for deeper partnerships including polished diamond sales from Botswana-sourced stones.

De Beers last reduced the number of sightholders in January 2021, when it introduced new contracts dividing buyers into three categories – dealers, manufacturers and integrated retailers.

Source: DCLA

Sunday, 22 March 2026

Lab-Grown Diamonds: A Structural Disruption to the Traditional Diamond Industry

 Lab-grown diamonds reshape the industry

The global diamond industry is undergoing one of the most profound transformations in its modern history. The rapid rise of lab-grown diamonds is not merely a cyclical shift it represents a structural disruption that is reshaping mining economics, retail strategies, and long-held consumer perceptions of value.

What makes this transition particularly striking is that it was not unforeseen. As early as 2002, Diamond Certification Laboratory of Australia (DCLA) issued clear warnings to the Australian diamond industry about the impending impact of synthetic diamonds. Yet, industry associations largely failed to act, leaving miners, wholesalers, and retailers exposed to a technological shift that is now impossible to ignore.


A Warning Ignored: DCLA’s Early Insight

More than two decades ago, DCLA identified that advances in diamond-growing technology particularly Chemical Vapour Deposition (CVD) and High-Pressure High-Temperature (HPHT) would eventually produce gem-quality diamonds indistinguishable from natural stones without specialised equipment.

At the time, the broader industry dismissed these developments as niche or irrelevant to the emotional and luxury positioning of natural diamonds. Industry bodies continued to promote rarity, tradition, and romance, rather than preparing for a future where functional equivalence meets dramatic price advantage.

The failure was not technological it was strategic.

No meaningful contingency planning was undertaken. There was no large-scale consumer education framework, no segmentation strategy, and no defensive positioning to preserve the long-term value of natural diamonds. The result is the dislocation we are witnessing today.


Technological Parity and Economic Reality

Lab-grown diamonds are, from a scientific standpoint, diamonds in every sense. They possess identical:

  • Hardness (10 on the Mohs scale)
  • Refractive index
  • Thermal conductivity
  • Crystal structure

The only difference lies in origin.

Modern production methods have compressed what takes nature billions of years into a matter of weeks. CVD grows diamonds atom by atom in controlled environments, while HPHT replicates the extreme pressure and heat conditions found deep within the Earth.

This technological leap has created a fundamental economic imbalance:

  • 1-carat lab-grown diamond: $800–$1,500
  • 1-carat natural diamond: $4,000–$8,000

An 80%+ price differential for a visually identical product is not a temporary inefficiency—it is a permanent market force.


Impact on Traditional Mining

The implications for mining companies are severe and ongoing.

Major producers, including De Beers (owned by Anglo American), have experienced dramatic valuation declines and sustained financial pressure. Falling polished diamond prices—down more than 40% from recent peaks—are compressing margins across the sector.

Unlike synthetic producers, miners cannot rapidly adjust supply or significantly reduce extraction costs. Their operations are capital intensive, geographically fixed, and subject to long development cycles.

This has led to:

  • Mine closures and production cuts
  • Asset write-downs
  • Consolidation across the industry
  • Reduced exploration investment

The traditional model—built on scarcity and controlled supply—is being undermined by a product that can be manufactured at scale.


Retailers Caught in the Middle

Diamond retailers have arguably been hit the hardest.

For decades, retailers relied on consistent pricing structures, stable supply chains, and the emotional narrative of natural diamonds. Today, they face a vastly more complex landscape:

  • Consumers are more informed and price-sensitive
  • Lab-grown diamonds offer higher margins but lower ticket values
  • Natural diamonds face resale and perception challenges
  • Inventory risk has increased significantly

Retailers must now walk a fine line—offering both products while clearly communicating the differences. Failure to do so risks eroding consumer trust.

Many have pivoted toward lab-grown diamonds due to demand, but this shift often comes at the expense of the very product category that built their business.


Changing Consumer Psychology

Perhaps the most significant shift is not technological—but psychological.

Younger consumers increasingly prioritise:

  • Value for money
  • Ethical sourcing
  • Environmental considerations
  • Transparency

The traditional narrative—“a diamond is forever”—no longer carries the same weight it once did.

Instead, buyers are asking practical questions:

  • Why pay significantly more for a natural stone?
  • What is the resale value?
  • Is the origin worth the premium?

This change in mindset has accelerated lab-grown adoption, particularly in engagement rings, where they now account for nearly half of purchases in key markets.


Environmental Considerations

Lab-grown diamonds have also gained traction through environmental positioning.

While the full lifecycle impact varies depending on energy sources, synthetic diamonds generally offer:

  • Lower land disruption
  • Reduced water usage
  • Less waste generation

Natural diamond mining, by contrast, involves significant earth movement, long-term environmental management, and complex logistics.

However, it is important to note that not all lab-grown diamonds are environmentally equal—production powered by fossil fuels can offset many of these advantages.


Industry Response: Too Little, Too Late?

Traditional players have responded with a mix of strategies:

  • Emphasising rarity and natural origin
  • Investing in traceability and certification
  • Targeting high-value, large-stone segments
  • Strengthening luxury branding

Yet these responses are largely reactive.

Had the industry heeded DCLA’s early warnings in 2002, it could have:

  • Established clear market segmentation early
  • Educated consumers proactively
  • Protected natural diamond positioning
  • Developed stronger resale and investment frameworks

Instead, the industry allowed the narrative to be rewritten by price and accessibility.


The Road Ahead: Coexistence or Displacement?

The most likely outcome is not total replacement, but market bifurcation:

  • Natural diamonds: Premium, rare, investment-oriented
  • Lab-grown diamonds: Accessible, mass-market, value-driven

However, this coexistence depends on the natural diamond industry’s ability to redefine its value proposition beyond aesthetics.

Without that, the pressure from lab-grown alternatives will only intensify.


The rise of lab-grown diamonds is a textbook case of technological disruption—where innovation delivers a product of equal function at a fraction of the cost.

The tragedy for the traditional diamond industry is not that it was disrupted, but that it was warned.

The Diamond Certification Laboratory of Australia saw the shift coming over 20 years ago. The failure of industry associations to act on that warning has left miners and retailers scrambling to adapt in real time.

For investors, retailers, and consumers alike, the lesson is clear:

In markets driven by both emotion and economics, technology will always find a way to challenge tradition.


Disclaimer: This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute financial or investment advice. Market conditions and industry dynamics may change, and readers should conduct independent research before making any decisions.

Thursday, 19 March 2026

South Africa's New Guidelines to Boost Domestic Polishing

 South african workers, diamond polisher at work, using a polishing wheel to shape and refine a rough diamond, brillianteering

South Africa has introduced new guidelines to retain more economic value from its rough diamonds by promoting local cutting and polishing, rather than exporting goods unprocessed.

Around 90% of its rough diamond production is currently sold abroad. The South African Diamond and Precious Metals Regulator (SADPMR) is tackling this by requiring genuine offers of certain rough to local buyers first – at reasonable prices and practical assortments.

Producers are currently required to allocate 10% of run-of-mine (ROM) rough -total unsorted output straight from the mine – to the State Diamond Trader (SDT), a government entity that resells it to local beneficiators (licensed cutters and polishers).​

The remaining 90% (known as non-SDT rough) has, until now, been exported by sellers who have deliberately deterred local buyers with high prices and poor bundles, favoring tenders in Antwerp and Dubai.​

SADPMR now mandates that they make genuine rather than sham offers to sell this non-SDT rough to domestic cutters and polishers.

It must be displayed for at least four days at the Diamond Exchange and Export Centre (DEEC) in Johannesburg before export approval. There is no quota change, just stricter enforcement to boost local uptake.

Souurce: DCLA

Wednesday, 18 March 2026

Innovation in Diamond Cutting Takes Centre Stage

 Luxury watchmaker Jacob & Co. has unveiled a remarkable evolution in diamond design, introducing a proprietary “Angel Cut” across its latest high jewellery timepiece

Luxury watchmaker Jacob & Co. has unveiled a remarkable evolution in diamond design, introducing a proprietary “Angel Cut” across its latest high jewellery timepiece marking a noteworthy development in modern diamond faceting.

More than a stylistic variation, the Angel Cut represents a deliberate rethinking of how light interacts within a diamond. Developed in-house over a two-year period, the cut features 37 precisely engineered facets significantly fewer than many traditional brilliant-style cuts. Rather than maximising facet count, the design prioritises facet placement, aiming to enhance light return, internal reflection, and overall visual coherence.

At the core of the Angel Cut is a distinctive lozenge-shaped table, framed within a stepped rectangular outline with cut corners. This geometry alters the path of light through the stone, producing a continuous, fluid luminosity rather than the sharp scintillation typically associated with more fragmented facet arrangements. The result is a diamond that exhibits a broader, more even glow, with an emphasis on depth and dimensional light performance.

This innovation has been showcased in the latest iteration of the Billionaire Double Tourbillon timepiece, the first watch globally to incorporate this new cut. Previous editions in the series predominantly featured established step cuts such as emerald and Asscher, making this release a clear departure toward proprietary diamond engineering.

The watch itself is extensively set, incorporating nearly 300 diamonds with a combined weight approaching 80 carats. Of particular note is the dominance of the Angel Cut stones, which form the visual identity of the piece, complemented by supporting cuts that enhance structural and aesthetic balance.

From a gemmological perspective, the introduction of a patented cut raises important considerations. While traditional cuts have long-established grading frameworks, new proprietary cuts challenge laboratories to assess light performance, symmetry, and finish within evolving parameters. As the official CIBJO laboratory in Australia, Diamond Certification Laboratory of Australia continues to monitor such innovations closely, particularly where they influence market perception, valuation, and grading consistency.

Beyond its diamond setting, the timepiece also demonstrates advanced horological engineering, featuring a dual flying tourbillon mechanism and a highly complex hand-wound movement. However, it is the diamond innovation that remains the defining feature of this release.

The Angel Cut signals a broader trend within the high-end diamond sector: a shift toward proprietary faceting as brands seek differentiation not only through origin and size, but through the very physics of light performance.

For the diamond trade, this development reinforces an important reality innovation in cutting remains one of the most powerful drivers of both beauty and value in modern diamonds.

Source: DCLA

Tuesday, 17 March 2026

LUCARA RECOVERS EXCEPTIONAL 36.92 CARAT BLUE DIAMOND FROM KAROWE

 

36.92 CARAT BLUE DIAMOND

Lucara Diamond Corp. has announced the recovery of a remarkable 36.92 carat blue diamond from its wholly owned Karowe Diamond Mine in Botswana further reinforcing Karowe’s reputation as one of the world’s most prolific sources of rare and high-value diamonds.

The newly recovered stone is described as a high-quality Type IIb blue diamond, a category renowned for its extreme rarity, boron content, and exceptional optical properties. The diamond was recovered using X-ray Transmission (XRT) technology from stockpiled ore, highlighting the continued value embedded within Karowe’s surface material.

In addition to this notable discovery, Lucara reports that five diamonds exceeding 100 carats have been recovered year-to-date from the processing of stockpiles. These results underscore the consistent recovery profile of large, high-quality stones from the Karowe resource.

William Lamb, President and CEO of Lucara, commented that the recovery of this exceptional blue diamond further demonstrates the unique nature of the Karowe asset. He emphasised that such finds validate the strategic importance of stockpile processing as a meaningful contributor to ongoing production.

Since commencing operations in 2012, Karowe has established itself as a leading producer of large, high-value Type IIa diamonds. The mine remains the cornerstone of Lucara’s operations and future growth strategy.

Looking ahead, Karowe is undergoing a significant transition from open-pit to underground mining through the development of the Karowe Underground Project (UGP). This expansion is designed to unlock access to the highest-value portions of the orebody. Underground development ore is expected to begin supplementing stockpile feed by 2027, with full-scale underground production targeted for the first half of 2028.

This latest recovery not only highlights the enduring value of Karowe’s resource but also reinforces Botswana’s standing as a premier origin for some of the world’s most extraordinary diamonds.

Source: DCLA

Monday, 16 March 2026

26.36 Carat White Diamond Expected to Exceed $1 Million at London Jewellery Auction

 26.36 Carat White Diamond Expected to Exceed $1 Million at London Jewellery Auction

A rare 26.36 carat round brilliant-cut white diamond is set to headline a major jewellery auction in London, where it is expected to sell for more than $1 million, highlighting continued global demand for exceptional natural diamonds.

The impressive stone will appear in the upcoming Fine Jewellery sale at Elmwood’s, carrying a pre-sale estimate of £800,000 to £1,000,000 (approximately $1.07 million to $1.34 million). The diamond features VVS1 clarity and I colour, placing it firmly within the category of high-quality investment-grade stones sought by collectors and connoisseurs.

To emphasise the diamond’s exceptional brilliance, the stone is set in a simple platinum solitaire ring, allowing the size and quality of the diamond to remain the central focus.

Of particular importance to collectors is the stone’s “Triple Excellent” grading—the highest possible standard for cut, polish and symmetry. The diamond also shows no fluorescence, a characteristic that helps preserve the stone’s natural brilliance and fire under a wide range of lighting conditions.

According to Joe Kendrick, Head of Sale at Elmwood’s, diamonds of this calibre rarely appear on the U.K. market.

“Stones combining this level of size, VVS1 clarity and triple excellent cut are extraordinarily rare in the United Kingdom,” Kendrick noted. “A diamond of this magnitude may only appear once in a decade. This solitaire is a remarkable example of why large white diamonds remain among the most prized gemstones in the world.”

The last comparable stone offered at auction in the U.K. was a 26.27 carat white diamond sold by Sotheby’s in 2017 for £656,750. Known as the “Tenner Diamond,” the stone gained international attention after it emerged that the owner had originally purchased it for just £10 at a car boot sale.

The upcoming auction marks an important moment for Elmwood’s, a relatively young auction house founded in 2017 and based in Notting Hill, London. The firm has positioned itself as a challenger in the international jewellery auction market by introducing a 0% seller’s commission, a strategy designed to attract high-value consignments that might otherwise be directed to the larger auction centres of Geneva or New York.

Large natural diamonds of 25 carats and above rarely appear at auction outside these major global hubs, making this London offering particularly noteworthy for collectors and the broader international diamond market.

For the global trade and collectors alike, the sale reinforces the enduring appeal of large natural diamonds with exceptional cut quality, a segment where rarity and provenance continue to drive value in the high-end gemstone market.

Source: DCLA

Thursday, 12 March 2026

Mountain Province Sales Slump in "Very Difficult" Conditions

 The Toronto-based miner said revenue for the full year was down from USD 195.2m to USD 111.5m

Mountain Province Diamonds has reported a 42% drop in sales for FY2025, as “very difficult” market conditions persist.

The Toronto-based miner said revenue for the full year was down from USD 195.2m to USD 111.5m, although there was an improvement in Q4, with the drop in sales down by a relatively modest 11% to USD 33m.

In a quarterly update published on 9 March it blamed continued pressure on rough diamond pricing due to uncertainty surrounding U.S. tariffs, geopolitical factors, and the ongoing threat from lab grown diamonds.

The average price per carat fell 18% from USD 72 to USD 59 in FY2025, and 24% for Q4 2025. The company blamed challenging market conditions and the mix of goods sold for the Q4 average price, reflecting the sale of a finer set of goods held back from previous quarters.

Production guidance for 2026 is 6.6m to 7.2m carats, compared to 4.33m carats recovered in FY2025.

Mountain Province operates the Gahcho Kue mine, in Canada’s Northwest Territories in a joint venture with De Beers.

Last month it said it was pausing plans for the Tuzo Phase 3 project, which would extend the life of the mine, but require substantial capital expenditure.

“While the Tuzo Phase 3 project has demonstrated strong potential, current market conditions have prompted the partners to take a measured approach to its development,” the company said.

Source: DCLA

De Beers Slashes Number of Sightholders

  De Beers has reportedly slashed the number of sightholders who can buy their goods by as much as a third, as it seeks to consolidate suppl...