Diamond vs Coloured Gemstones and Pearls: Why Diamonds Truly Are Forever

 

Understanding the difference in durability, hardness and the ability of precious stones to withstand a lifetime of wear.

Diamonds have long been celebrated as a symbol of eternal love, with the familiar expression “Diamonds Are Forever” carrying a great deal of truth. While diamonds are admired for their brilliance, beauty and rarity, one of their most remarkable qualities is their exceptional durability.

Unlike many coloured gemstones and pearls, diamonds can withstand considerable wear and, when properly handled, can be removed from jewellery and reset multiple times without compromising the integrity of the stone.

Coloured gemstones and pearls, although beautiful and often extremely valuable, have very different physical properties. Their relative softness, toughness and internal structure make them more susceptible to damage over time.

Understanding these differences is important when purchasing, wearing, maintaining or restoring fine jewellery.

1. The Mohs Scale: Measuring Hardness

To understand why diamonds are so durable, it is important to understand the Mohs Scale of Mineral Hardness.

Developed by German mineralogist Friedrich Mohs in 1812, the scale ranks minerals from 1 to 10 according to their resistance to scratching.

Diamond sits at the very top, with a hardness rating of 10. It is the hardest naturally occurring mineral, making it exceptionally resistant to scratching and surface abrasion.

However, there is an important distinction: the Mohs scale measures hardness, not overall toughness or resistance to breaking.

For example, a diamond can resist scratching from virtually every other natural mineral, yet a sharp impact in the wrong direction can still cause it to chip or fracture.

The scale is also not linear. The difference between 9 and 10 is considerably greater than the difference between many lower numbers. Diamond is substantially harder than ruby and sapphire, despite being only one point higher.

Comparing the hardness of popular gemstones

Gemstone	Mohs hardness
Diamond	10
Ruby	9
Sapphire	9
Topaz	8
Emerald	7.5–8
Amethyst	7
Tanzanite	6–7
Opal	5.5–6.5
Pearl	2.5–3

Figures are approximate and can vary between varieties and individual specimens. Pearl is an organic gem material rather than a mineral.

As the table illustrates, coloured gemstones have widely differing levels of hardness. Rubies and sapphires are particularly durable, whereas opals, tanzanite and pearls require considerably more care.

Importantly, hardness alone does not tell the complete story. A gemstone’s internal structure, natural inclusions, cleavage, toughness and sensitivity to heat or chemicals all contribute to its ability to withstand everyday wear. GIA 4Cs+2

2. Coloured Gemstones: Beauty Comes with Different Durability

Coloured gemstones offer an extraordinary range of natural colours, from the deep blue of sapphires and rich red of rubies to the vivid green of emeralds and the beautiful violet-blue of tanzanite.

However, unlike diamonds, many coloured gemstones are more vulnerable to the physical demands of everyday jewellery wear.

Even gemstones with relatively high Mohs hardness can have weaknesses within their crystal structure.

Emeralds, for example, are reasonably hard, generally rating between 7.5 and 8 on the Mohs scale. However, they commonly contain internal fissures and fractures, sometimes referred to in the trade as jardin. These natural characteristics can make emeralds more vulnerable to impact and damage. Many emeralds are also treated with oil or resin to improve the apparent clarity of these fissures.

Tanzanite is considerably softer, with a hardness of approximately 6 to 7. It also has cleavage, meaning it can split or fracture if struck in the wrong direction. A knock against a hard surface can cause damage that may be difficult or impossible to repair without altering the stone.

Opals are another example of a gemstone requiring special care. Their relatively low hardness makes them susceptible to scratching and abrasion. Changes in temperature and humidity can also affect certain opals, potentially resulting in cracking or crazing.

Rubies and sapphires, on the other hand, are among the most durable coloured gemstones. With a hardness of 9, they are well suited to regular jewellery wear, although they can still chip or fracture following a sufficiently hard impact.

This is why it is incorrect to assume that all coloured gemstones have the same durability. Each variety has its own physical characteristics, and its suitability for everyday wear should be assessed individually.GIA 4Cs+2

3. Pearls: Beautiful but Particularly Delicate

Pearls are fundamentally different from diamonds and coloured mineral gemstones.

They are organic gems formed within molluscs, consisting primarily of layers of nacre, the material responsible for their distinctive lustre.

Unlike diamonds, pearls are exceptionally soft, generally measuring between 2.5 and 3 on the Mohs scale.

This makes them particularly susceptible to scratching, abrasion and surface damage.

Even everyday contact with harder jewellery, metal objects or rough surfaces can gradually affect a pearl’s lustre and surface finish.

Pearls are also sensitive to chemicals and environmental conditions. Perfume, hairspray, cosmetics, household cleaning products, perspiration and excessive heat can all affect their appearance and condition.

Unlike a diamond, a pearl cannot simply be repolished to restore its original surface without potentially removing valuable layers of nacre and changing its appearance.

Pearl jewellery therefore requires considerably more care. It should be stored separately, cleaned gently and protected from chemicals and unnecessary friction.

While pearls can certainly become treasured family heirlooms, their delicate structure means they are less suited to the same level of everyday wear as diamonds. gia+1

4. Why Diamonds Can Be Reset Again and Again

One of the greatest advantages of diamonds is their ability to be incorporated into jewellery, removed and reset into new designs over generations.

A diamond engagement ring purchased decades ago can be redesigned into a contemporary setting, transformed into a pendant or incorporated into another piece of jewellery.

Provided the diamond is in sound condition and the work is carried out by an experienced professional, removing and resetting the stone does not inherently compromise its structural integrity.

This is a significant difference when compared with many coloured gemstones and pearls.

With softer gemstones, repeated setting and removal can increase the risk of scratching, chipping, abrasion or damage to vulnerable edges and corners. Pearls can be particularly challenging because their structure and surface are not designed to withstand repeated mechanical handling.

Diamonds are not indestructible, however. Their natural cleavage planes, existing inclusions, fractures, thin girdles and exposed points must all be considered during jewellery manufacture and repair.

A professional jeweller should always inspect a diamond before removing or resetting it. Appropriate tools, techniques and care are essential to minimise the risk of damage.

Nevertheless, the exceptional hardness and stability of diamonds make them particularly suitable for jewellery intended to be worn, redesigned, inherited and enjoyed for generations.

5. The Difference Between Hardness and Toughness

An important point often misunderstood by jewellery owners is that hardness and toughness are not the same thing.

• Hardness refers to a gemstone’s resistance to scratching and abrasion.
• Toughness refers to its ability to withstand impact without chipping, cracking or breaking.
• Stability refers to its ability to withstand exposure to heat, light, chemicals and changes in environmental conditions.

Diamond scores exceptionally highly for hardness, but it is not immune to impact damage because of its natural cleavage planes.

Some coloured gemstones may be less hard but can have different levels of toughness. Jade, for example, is renowned for its exceptional toughness despite having a much lower hardness rating than diamond.

Understanding all three properties is essential when selecting a gemstone for jewellery, particularly engagement rings and pieces intended for everyday wear.

6. Jewellery That Can Be Passed Down Through Generations

There is a reason diamonds have traditionally been chosen for engagement rings, wedding jewellery and important family heirlooms.

Their exceptional hardness, resistance to scratching and remarkable long-term stability make them particularly well suited to jewellery that is intended to last.

A diamond can be passed from one generation to another, removed from an old-fashioned setting and incorporated into a completely new design. Its original beauty can be preserved through generations of changing jewellery styles.

Coloured gemstones and pearls have their own unique appeal, and many can also become wonderful family heirlooms. However, their care and maintenance requirements are different. Some may require more frequent inspection, protective settings and careful handling to preserve their condition.

The important distinction is that a diamond’s exceptional durability gives it a versatility that few other gemstones can match.

Conclusion: Diamonds Really Are Forever

The expression Diamonds Are Forever is more than just a successful jewellery slogan. It reflects one of the most remarkable physical properties of this extraordinary natural gemstone.

While diamonds can chip, fracture or suffer damage under certain conditions, their exceptional hardness and stability make them uniquely suited to a lifetime of wear and repeated jewellery redesign.

Coloured gemstones and pearls offer magnificent beauty, individuality and colour, but their physical properties mean they require different levels of care and protection.

At DCLA, we believe understanding the science behind gemstones is just as important as appreciating their beauty.

Whether purchasing a diamond, restoring an inherited ring or choosing a coloured gemstone, knowing the differences in hardness, toughness and durability helps ensure that precious jewellery can be enjoyed and preserved for generations.

Diamonds may change their setting, their design and even their owner, but with proper care, the stone itself can remain a lasting part of a family’s history.

Further reading: DCLA Diamond Glossary

Explore the DCLA Glossary & Picture Library for explanations of diamond characteristics and terminology:

• Diamond Glossary & Picture Library
• Hardness
• Durability
• Toughness
• Abrasion
• Cleavage
• Fracture
• Directional Hardness

Lab-Grown Diamonds Take a Major Step Towards Revolutionising Semiconductor Technology

 

Diamond Foundry unveils the world’s first 200mm single-crystal diamond wafer, opening new possibilities for cooling increasingly powerful AI processors.

Diamonds have long been recognised for their exceptional physical properties, but their potential extends well beyond jewellery. A major development in synthetic diamond technology could see diamonds play an increasingly important role in the future of artificial intelligence, advanced computing and semiconductor manufacturing.

US-based Diamond Foundry has announced what it describes as the world’s first 200mm single-crystal diamond wafer, marking a significant milestone in the development of industrial applications for lab-grown diamonds.

The breakthrough could help address one of the biggest challenges facing the technology industry: managing the enormous amounts of heat generated by increasingly powerful computer chips.

Why diamonds could be the answer to AI cooling

Diamond is one of the most thermally conductive materials known to science. Its ability to transfer heat is exceptional, with high-quality single-crystal diamond capable of conducting heat at several times the rate of copper.

This makes it particularly attractive for semiconductor applications, where heat management has become increasingly important as processors become smaller, faster and more powerful.

Modern AI processors generate substantial heat, creating thermal hotspots that can affect performance, reliability and energy efficiency. Conventional cooling materials are increasingly being challenged by the demands of high-performance computing.

Single-crystal diamond offers a potentially important solution. It combines outstanding thermal conductivity with excellent electrical insulation, allowing heat to be moved away from sensitive electronic components without interfering with their electrical operation.

From laboratory development to wafer-scale manufacturing

What makes Diamond Foundry’s achievement particularly significant is the scale of the material.

Unlike conventional polycrystalline synthetic diamond, which consists of numerous smaller crystal grains, single-crystal diamond has a continuous crystal structure. This distinction is important because it allows the material to retain the exceptional thermal properties required for advanced semiconductor applications.

Producing large, high-quality single-crystal diamond wafers has been a considerable scientific and engineering challenge for decades.

The new 200mm wafer represents an important step towards making the material commercially viable for semiconductor manufacturers. The company has also indicated that producing 300mm diamond wafers could become achievable before 2030, potentially bringing diamond-based technology closer to the requirements of advanced semiconductor fabrication.

However, the achievement is still an important development rather than a finished commercial product. The demonstration wafer requires further processing and polishing before it can be incorporated into semiconductor manufacturing systems.

A technology industry increasingly turning to synthetic diamonds

Diamond Foundry is not alone in exploring the industrial potential of lab-grown diamonds.

Several major technology companies and research groups are investigating diamond-based materials to improve thermal management in next-generation electronics.

These include:

• Akash Systems: Developing gallium nitride technology integrated with synthetic diamond, targeting improved thermal performance in advanced electronic devices.
• De Beers Group: Exploring copper-plated diamond composite materials designed to improve cooling in AI computing, high-performance processors and radio-frequency applications.
• Frore Systems: Investigating diamond-enhanced cooling solutions for advanced graphics processors and high-performance computing systems.

The growing interest from these companies highlights how synthetic diamonds are moving beyond their traditional applications and becoming increasingly relevant to advanced manufacturing and technology.

The future of diamonds extends far beyond jewellery

For the diamond industry, developments such as this demonstrate the extraordinary versatility of diamond as an engineered material.

While natural diamonds remain highly valued for their rarity, geological origins and enduring appeal in jewellery, laboratory-grown diamonds offer manufacturers the ability to produce specialised materials with controlled characteristics for specific industrial applications.

From semiconductor cooling and quantum technology to optical systems, precision engineering and advanced electronics, the potential applications of synthetic diamonds continue to expand.

Diamond Foundry’s 200mm wafer is an important milestone in this evolution. Although widespread commercial adoption will require further development, it demonstrates that diamond technology may soon become part of the infrastructure powering the next generation of artificial intelligence.

The future of diamonds may not only be found in jewellery showcases, but also at the heart of the world’s most advanced technology.

Not All Lab-Grown Diamonds Are the Same

It is important to distinguish between laboratory-grown diamonds manufactured for the jewellery industry and the specialised synthetic diamonds being developed for advanced industrial applications.

Both are real diamonds, with the same fundamental chemical composition and crystal structure as natural diamonds: pure carbon arranged in a diamond crystal lattice. However, their intended applications, manufacturing requirements and specifications can be very different.

Gem-quality lab-grown diamonds are produced using technologies such as High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT) and Chemical Vapour Deposition (CVD). They are manufactured to achieve the colour, clarity, cut and overall appearance required for jewellery. Like natural diamonds, they can be graded according to established gemmological standards.

Industrial single-crystal diamonds, such as the 200mm wafer developed by Diamond Foundry, are engineered for specific technical applications. Their priority is not beauty, brilliance or jewellery grading, but crystal quality, thermal conductivity, consistency and the ability to manufacture large, uniform structures.

There is also an important distinction between single-crystal and polycrystalline diamond. Single-crystal diamond has one continuous crystal lattice, while polycrystalline diamond consists of numerous smaller diamond crystals joined together. This difference can significantly influence thermal and other physical properties.

The Diamond Foundry development is therefore not simply about producing a larger laboratory-grown gemstone. It represents a major engineering achievement in manufacturing large-scale, specialised diamond material for semiconductor technology.

At DCLA, we recognise that diamonds have applications extending well beyond jewellery. Understanding the differences between natural diamonds, gem-quality laboratory-grown diamonds and industrial synthetic diamond materials is increasingly important as diamond technology continues to evolve.

Hong Kong Luxury Retail Booms While High Borrowing Costs Hit Australian Businesses

 

Hong Kong’s jewellery and watch industry is experiencing a remarkable recovery, with sales jumping more than 20% in September 2026. The figures provide an interesting contrast to the retail environments in Australia and the United States, where higher borrowing costs, household debt and the rising cost of doing business are putting pressure on retailers, forcing some well-known businesses to close stores or restructure.

The contrasting results raise an important question: why are some economies and retail sectors performing considerably better than others?

Hong Kong jewellery sales lead the retail recovery

Sales of jewellery, watches and valuable gifts in Hong Kong increased by 20.3% year on year in September 2026, reaching HK$4.706 billion (approximately US$603 million), according to provisional figures released by the Hong Kong Census and Statistics Department on November 3.

Sales volume also increased by 7%, indicating that the growth reflects increased purchasing activity rather than simply higher prices.

The jewellery and watch category was the strongest-performing major retail sector during the month, comfortably outperforming Hong Kong’s overall retail market, where sales value increased by 6.4%.

The positive trend has been building throughout the year. For the first nine months of 2026, jewellery, watch and valuable gift sales rose 22.4% to HK$45.82 billion (approximately US$5.87 billion), while sales volume increased by 6.8%.

Interest rates: A significant difference between the three markets

One potential explanation for the different retail environments is the cost of borrowing and the impact of monetary policy on households and businesses.

As of November 6, 2026, the respective central bank policy rates are:

• United States: Federal Reserve target range of 3.75% to 4.00%.
• Australia: Reserve Bank of Australia cash rate of 4.85%, following a 0.25 percentage point increase on November 3.
• Hong Kong: Hong Kong Monetary Authority base rate of 4.25%, following the US Federal Reserve’s October decision to leave rates unchanged.

These figures are not directly equivalent to the mortgage, business lending or consumer borrowing rates paid in each market, but they provide an indication of the different monetary conditions.

Australia currently has the highest policy rate of the three. Higher interest rates can place considerable pressure on Australian households, particularly those carrying large mortgages, while also increasing financing costs for businesses.

When households devote more of their income to mortgage repayments, utilities, food and other essential expenses, discretionary purchases are often among the first areas where spending is reduced. Jewellery, watches and luxury goods can be particularly affected.

For retailers, higher borrowing costs can also make it more expensive to finance stock, maintain premises, employ staff and manage day-to-day operations.

In the United States, although the Federal Reserve’s policy rate is lower than Australia’s, American consumers continue to face significant household debt, financing costs and pressure from the cost of living.

Hong Kong’s situation is different. Its currency is linked to the US dollar through a currency peg, meaning its monetary conditions are closely influenced by Federal Reserve policy. Its base rate therefore broadly follows US interest rate movements, although local banking and interbank market conditions also influence actual borrowing costs.

Australia and the United States: Retailers under pressure

Across Australia, retailers are navigating a difficult combination of high household expenses, mortgage repayments, wages, commercial rents and operating costs.

The result is increasing pressure on discretionary retail spending. When consumers become more cautious, businesses selling non-essential products can experience a significant reduction in demand.

The United States is facing its own retail challenges, with a number of established retail chains announcing store closures, restructuring programmes and changes to their business models.

It is important to recognise that store closures do not necessarily mean an entire economy is contracting. Retailers also close locations because of changing shopping habits, online competition, lease costs and corporate restructuring. However, the broader trend highlights the difficulties facing traditional retail businesses.

Why is Hong Kong performing differently?

Hong Kong’s strong jewellery sales suggest that consumer demand can remain resilient even when global economic conditions are uncertain.

Its position as an international financial and luxury shopping centre, established tourism market and major destination for jewellery and watch trading provides advantages that are not necessarily shared by Australia or the United States.

Tourism and visitor spending can also contribute significantly to luxury retail performance. The earlier arrival of the Mid-Autumn Festival helped support visitor numbers and spending in September.

The Hong Kong government has also reported a broader retail recovery, with total retail sales increasing for the 17th consecutive month.

What does this mean for the jewellery and diamond industry?

The jewellery industry is particularly sensitive to consumer confidence, disposable income and access to credit. However, the market is not uniform.

Hong Kong’s latest figures demonstrate that demand for luxury jewellery and watches can grow strongly even while other developed economies experience retail difficulties.

For Australian jewellers, diamond dealers and retailers, the challenge is to understand the changing economic environment and adapt accordingly.

For consumers, it is also worth remembering that jewellery and watches represent different types of purchases. A luxury watch or branded jewellery piece may carry a substantial retail premium, while the underlying value of precious metals and diamonds depends on their individual characteristics and prevailing market conditions.

The bigger economic picture

The comparison between Hong Kong, Australia and the United States demonstrates that global economic conditions do not affect every country equally.

Interest rates, government policy, taxation, consumer confidence, debt levels, tourism and business operating costs all contribute to economic performance.

Hong Kong’s 20.3% increase in jewellery and watch sales is an encouraging sign for the international luxury market. Meanwhile, the challenges facing Australian and American retailers demonstrate how quickly consumer spending can be affected when the cost of living and doing business increases.

Ultimately, a healthy retail economy depends on more than just headline growth figures. It requires consumers with disposable income, businesses that can operate profitably and an economic environment that encourages spending, investment and long-term confidence.

Source: DCLA

Gem Diamonds Raises 2026 Forecast Following Exceptional Large-Diamond Sales

 

Exceptional high-value diamonds from Lesotho’s Letšeng mine have boosted Gem Diamonds’ financial performance, prompting the miner to increase its production and sales forecasts for 2026.

Gem Diamonds (LSE: GEMD) has upgraded its full-year 2026 production and sales guidance following a strong third quarter, with several exceptional large diamonds contributing significantly to revenue.

The Africa-focused diamond producer now expects to recover between 78,000 and 80,000 carats during 2026, up from its previous forecast of 75,000 to 78,000 carats. Sales guidance has also increased to between 79,000 and 81,000 carats.

The improved outlook highlights the continuing importance of exceptional, high-value rough diamonds in an industry where the quality and rarity of individual stones can have a far greater financial impact than overall production volumes.

Exceptional diamonds drive revenue growth

Gem Diamonds reported third-quarter revenue of US$34.8 million, representing a 35% increase compared with US$25.7 million in the same period last year.

Interestingly, this growth occurred despite a 22% decline in carats sold, which fell from 22,830 to 17,899 carats.

The average realised selling price increased by an impressive 73%, reaching US$1,945 per carat, compared with US$1,124 a year earlier.

Four exceptional diamonds each sold for more than US$1 million, generating combined proceeds of US$22.2 million, accounting for almost 64% of the company’s quarterly revenue.

Among these stones was the remarkable 347-carat Lesotho Jubilee, a white Type II diamond recovered in June and sold during the third quarter.

<em>The 347-carat Lesotho Jubilee, recovered at the Letšeng mine in Lesotho.</em>

The results demonstrate the extraordinary influence that rare, large diamonds can have on a mining company’s financial performance. While overall production and sales volumes remain important, the discovery of even a single exceptional stone can substantially influence quarterly revenue and profitability.

Letšeng mine production

Recoveries at Gem Diamonds’ Letšeng mine in Lesotho totalled 19,299 carats during the third quarter, down 13% from 22,268 carats in the corresponding period last year.

Three diamonds weighing more than 100 carats were recovered during the quarter, bringing the year-to-date total of stones exceeding this size to six.

Mining and processing operations remained concentrated on the Main Pipe, while preparations continued for the next phase of development at the Satellite Pipe.

CEO Clifford Elphick said September’s rough diamond sales achieved good prices, with the results further supported by the sale of the 347-carat Lesotho Jubilee. He described the results as encouraging indicators that demand and prices for Letšeng-quality diamonds remain firm.

Financing and changes to Lesotho’s diamond royalties

Gem Diamonds is also finalising commercial terms with Nedbank and Standard Bank to renew its revolving credit facilities before their scheduled expiry on 21 December 2026.

The company has welcomed the Lesotho Government’s proposed introduction of a variable diamond royalty rate ranging between 3% and 6%, describing the change as a positive step towards the long-term sustainability of mining operations.

Despite the improved production and revenue outlook, Gem Diamonds shares declined 14.2% to 12.44 pence during mid-afternoon trading in London, valuing the company at approximately £17.4 million.

The importance of exceptional diamonds

Gem Diamonds’ latest results provide a clear reminder that the diamond industry’s value is not measured by carat weight alone.

Large, rare and exceptional-quality diamonds occupy a distinct segment of the market, where colour, clarity, crystal structure, size and rarity can have a substantial influence on value.

For diamond owners and buyers alike, understanding these characteristics requires specialist knowledge and professional assessment.

At the Diamond Certification Laboratory of Australia (DCLA), diamond identification, grading and certification provide an independent assessment of a diamond’s characteristics, helping owners better understand the qualities that contribute to its value.

A Complete Guide to Antique Diamond Cuts: History, Styles and the Beauty of Old-Cut Diamonds

 

For centuries, diamonds have captivated people not only because of their rarity and beauty, but also because of the extraordinary skill required to transform a rough crystal into a polished gemstone. Long before modern diamond-cutting technology, master craftsmen developed ingenious techniques to reveal the beauty hidden within each stone.

Today, as jewellery trends increasingly embrace individuality, heritage and craftsmanship, antique and old-cut diamonds are enjoying renewed appreciation. From the soft, romantic shimmer of a Rose Cut to the distinctive chunky facets of an Old Mine Cut, these historic cutting styles offer something quite different from the precise, high-brilliance diamonds commonly seen in contemporary jewellery.

An old-cut diamond is not simply an outdated version of a modern brilliant. It represents a different philosophy of craftsmanship, shaped by the technology, tools, lighting conditions and aesthetic preferences of its time.

Understanding these historic cuts provides a fascinating insight into the evolution of the diamond industry and helps explain why some of these stones are now highly sought after by collectors, antique jewellery enthusiasts and those looking for something genuinely individual.

The Early History of

Diamonds were treasured for thousands of years before the development of modern cutting techniques. Initially, they were valued largely for their natural shape, exceptional hardness and rarity. Early diamond traders and jewellers often used polished natural crystals rather than attempting elaborate cutting.

The earliest documented diamond-cutting techniques were relatively simple. Craftsmen gradually discovered that diamonds could be shaped and polished using diamond powder, eventually developing more sophisticated methods to create facets and improve their appearance.

As trade routes expanded and diamond centres developed across Europe, particularly in Venice, Bruges, Antwerp, Paris and Amsterdam, cutting techniques became increasingly refined.

The development of diamond-cutting technology was closely connected to the availability of mechanical tools, the understanding of diamond crystal structure and the growing demand for more brilliant gemstones.

The following historic cuts represent important stages in this evolution.

The Historic Diamond Cuts and Their Characteristics

1. The Point Cut – 14th to 15th Century

The Point Cut is among the earliest recognised diamond-cutting styles.

Rather than creating a series of facets, the cutter followed the natural octahedral shape of the rough diamond, polishing its existing crystal faces while retaining much of its original form.

The result was a pointed, largely unmodified diamond that preserved the natural geometry of the crystal.

These early stones were often used in medieval jewellery, particularly in rings and religious ornaments. Their appearance was considerably different from the brilliant diamonds we recognise today.

2. The Table Cut – 15th to 16th Century

The Table Cut represented an important advancement in diamond cutting.

By removing the top point of an octahedral crystal, cutters created a flat table facet. The corners could also be slightly truncated, introducing additional facets and improving the stone’s appearance.

Table Cuts became popular during the Renaissance and were frequently used in European royal and aristocratic jewellery.

Some examples featured a relatively large table and a small culet, the flat facet at the bottom of the diamond.

Their understated appearance reflects an era when symmetry, shape and the natural character of the diamond were often more important than maximum brilliance.

3. The Rose Cut – 16th Century Onwards

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The Rose Cut is one of the most recognisable and romantic antique diamond styles.

Unlike modern brilliant cuts, a traditional Rose Cut has a flat base and a domed crown covered in triangular or kite-shaped facets that rise towards a central point.

The number of facets varies. Traditional examples commonly have three, six, twelve or twenty-four facets, although more elaborate variations were also produced.

The Rose Cut does not have the deep pavilion of a modern brilliant diamond. Instead, its flat-backed construction creates a softer, more subtle appearance, with light moving across the surface rather than producing the intense flashes associated with modern brilliant cutting.

This construction can also make a Rose Cut appear larger across the finger than a modern diamond of comparable carat weight.

Rose Cuts became particularly popular during the Georgian and Victorian periods and were frequently incorporated into closed-back settings, often backed with silver or gold.

They were traditionally used in rings, earrings, brooches, pendants and elaborate floral jewellery designs.

There are several variations, including:

• Dutch Rose Cut: Often featuring a higher, more rounded dome with a greater number of facets.
• Antwerp Rose Cut: A traditional European variation with a flatter profile and triangular facets.
• Briolette Rose Cut: An elongated, fully faceted drop-shaped form, particularly popular in pendant and earring designs.
• Rose Brilliant: A more elaborate variation combining characteristics of rose and brilliant cutting.

The Rose Cut has experienced a significant revival in contemporary jewellery. Designers increasingly use it in modern bezel settings, asymmetrical designs and distinctive engagement rings.

Its appeal lies in its character rather than maximum sparkle. It offers softness, individuality and an unmistakable connection to jewellery history.

4. The Mazarin Cut – 17th Century

The Mazarin Cut is an early form of brilliant cutting, named after Cardinal Jules Mazarin, the French statesman and diamond collector.

It is generally associated with a cushion-shaped outline and an early arrangement of facets intended to improve the reflection of light.

The Mazarin Cut is an important milestone because it helped move diamond cutting away from simple geometric shapes towards the development of more sophisticated brilliant patterns.

5. The Peruzzi Cut – Late 17th Century

The Peruzzi Cut is traditionally attributed to Venetian cutter Vincenzo Peruzzi.

It developed the early brilliant-cut concept by introducing additional facets to the crown and pavilion.

The Peruzzi Cut is generally associated with a more developed cushion-shaped brilliant arrangement, often described as having 33 facets on the crown and 24 on the pavilion, excluding the culet.

Although these early brilliant cuts did not achieve the optical performance of modern diamonds, they represented a major advancement in the understanding of light reflection and diamond proportions.

6. The Old Mine Cut – 18th to 19th Century

The Old Mine Cut is one of the most desirable and recognisable antique diamond styles.

Popular during the Georgian and Victorian periods, it was generally cushion-shaped, with a relatively high crown, small table, rounded corners, deep pavilion and often a noticeably large culet.

Unlike modern brilliant diamonds, Old Mine Cuts were individually shaped by hand, with proportions that varied considerably from stone to stone.

Their facets were designed to perform under the candlelight and softer illumination of the period. The larger facets create distinctive flashes of light rather than the more uniform sparkle associated with modern cutting.

Many Old Mine Cuts have a slightly asymmetrical appearance, which is part of their charm.

These diamonds are particularly popular in antique engagement rings and heritage jewellery. Their individuality makes them attractive to collectors and buyers who appreciate traditional craftsmanship.

7. The Old European Cut – Late 19th to Early 20th Century

The Old European Cut represents another important development in diamond cutting and is the direct historical predecessor of the modern round brilliant.

It became particularly popular during the Victorian, Edwardian and early Art Deco periods.

Unlike the cushion-shaped Old Mine Cut, the Old European Cut has a more rounded outline. It generally features a small table, high crown, deep pavilion, relatively large culet and a symmetrical arrangement of facets.

Old European Cuts were designed to maximise the return of light using the cutting knowledge and technology available at the time.

As mechanical cutting methods improved, cutters were increasingly able to produce more consistent round shapes and symmetrical facet arrangements.

The Old European Cut remains highly sought after because of its distinctive appearance, historical significance and softer, more individual light performance.

8. The Cushion Cut – 19th Century and Earlier Origins

The Cushion Cut evolved from earlier antique diamond shapes, including the Old Mine Cut.

Its rounded corners and square or rectangular outline give it the appearance of a cushion.

Depending on the period and cutting style, cushion diamonds can have broad facets, smaller brilliant-style facets or a combination of both.

Modern cushion cuts continue to be popular, but antique cushion diamonds are particularly interesting because their proportions and facet arrangements often reveal the hand craftsmanship of their original cutters.

9. The Single Cut – 19th Century Onwards

The Single Cut is a relatively simple faceting style, generally consisting of 17 or 18 facets depending on the counting convention.

It has a small table, crown facets and a simple pavilion arrangement.

Single Cuts were widely used in smaller diamonds, particularly in pavé settings, watches and fine jewellery.

They were also commonly used in older jewellery where numerous small stones were required to complement a larger centre diamond.

Although less elaborate than a full brilliant cut, Single Cuts remain useful in contemporary jewellery manufacturing.

10. The French Cut – 17th Century Onwards

The French Cut is a distinctive square-shaped diamond cut with a geometric arrangement of triangular facets.

It is particularly associated with antique and Art Deco jewellery.

French Cuts were often used as side stones in rings and bracelets, where their straight edges and architectural appearance complemented the designs of the period.

Their popularity increased during the Art Deco movement, when geometric shapes, symmetry and strong architectural lines became central to jewellery design.

11. The Eight-Cut – 19th to 20th Century

The Eight-Cut is a simplified brilliant-style cut, generally featuring eight facets on the crown and eight on the pavilion, together with a table and culet.

It was particularly useful for small diamonds where a full brilliant arrangement was impractical or uneconomical.

Eight-Cuts were widely used in older jewellery, particularly in pavé and cluster settings.

They are still encountered in antique pieces and some modern jewellery manufacturing.

12. The Swiss Cut – 19th to 20th Century

The Swiss Cut is another simplified brilliant-style cut, generally incorporating a greater number of facets than an Eight-Cut.

It was commonly used for small diamonds and melee stones in jewellery settings.

These diamonds were designed to provide more sparkle than a basic single or eight-cut stone while remaining economical to manufacture.

13. The Transitional Cut – Early to Mid-20th Century

The Transitional Cut emerged as diamond-cutting technology advanced and the industry moved towards the modern round brilliant.

It combined features of the Old European Cut with improved symmetry, more refined proportions and a smaller culet.

These diamonds represent an important bridge between traditional hand-cut stones and modern precision cutting.

Many transitional diamonds have excellent visual character, combining the broad flashes of antique diamonds with increased brilliance.

14. The Modern Round Brilliant – 20th Century

The modern round brilliant cut represents the culmination of centuries of diamond-cutting development.

The work of Marcel Tolkowsky in 1919 helped establish a mathematical approach to diamond proportions and light performance.

Modern cutting technology, precision measuring equipment and advanced optical analysis have continued to refine the round brilliant.

The standard modern round brilliant typically has 57 facets, or 58 when a culet is present.

Its carefully calculated proportions, facet arrangement and symmetry are designed to maximise brilliance, fire and scintillation.

Although the modern brilliant is now the most familiar diamond shape, it is important to remember that it represents only one chapter in a much longer history of diamond craftsmanship.

Why Are Old-Cut Diamonds Becoming Popular Again?

There is a growing appreciation for jewellery that tells a story.

Modern consumers are increasingly interested in pieces that are individual, distinctive and connected to history. Antique diamonds offer exactly that.

Unlike many contemporary diamonds, which are cut to precise and consistent specifications, old cuts were often shaped individually by skilled craftsmen.

This means that two antique diamonds of similar size and cutting style may have noticeably different proportions, facet arrangements and optical characteristics.

There are several reasons for their renewed popularity.

Individuality: No two hand-cut antique diamonds are necessarily identical. Their subtle irregularities and distinctive proportions give them personality.

Historical significance: An antique diamond may have been cut more than a century ago, potentially passing through several generations of jewellery ownership.

Soft light performance: Rose Cuts, Old Mine Cuts and Old European Cuts produce a different visual effect from modern brilliant diamonds. Their broad facets and distinctive proportions create larger flashes and a softer appearance.

Larger face-up appearance: Some Rose Cuts and shallow antique diamonds can appear larger across the surface than a modern diamond of the same carat weight.

Sustainable jewellery: Reusing an existing antique diamond allows an old gemstone to be incorporated into a new design without requiring another diamond to be mined and manufactured.

Are Old-Cut Diamonds More Valuable Than Modern Diamonds?

The value of an antique diamond is not determined simply by its age.

A well-preserved Old Mine Cut or Old European Cut may attract considerable interest, particularly when it has attractive proportions, desirable colour and clarity, good condition and documented provenance.

However, not every old-cut diamond commands a premium.

Factors influencing value include:

• Carat weight and face-up measurements.
• Colour and clarity.
• Overall proportions and symmetry.
• Condition, including chips, abrasions and damaged facet junctions.
• Originality and evidence of previous repolishing.
• Rarity and desirability of the particular cutting style.
• Historical provenance and supporting documentation.
• Current demand among collectors and jewellery buyers.

It is also important to distinguish between an antique diamond and a modern diamond cut in an antique style. A newly manufactured Old Mine-style diamond may reproduce the appearance of an historic cut without having any genuine historical age.

Professional examination is essential when establishing what a diamond actually is.

The Importance of Professional Diamond Identification and Grading

One of the challenges with antique diamonds is that many were cut long before modern grading standards existed.

Old certificates, handwritten descriptions and jewellery valuations may not accurately describe the diamond according to today’s recognised grading terminology.

Furthermore, a diamond that has remained in its original setting for generations may have accumulated wear, damage or alterations that are difficult to identify without specialist examination.

At the Diamond Certification Laboratory of Australia (DCLA), diamond examination involves detailed assessment of the stone’s characteristics, including its weight, measurements, colour, clarity, proportions, polish, symmetry and identifying features.

The laboratory can also document the diamond’s cutting style and relevant characteristics, helping owners, collectors and the jewellery trade better understand the stone they possess.

A diamond grading report is not a monetary valuation. Rather, it provides an independent technical description that can assist with identification, insurance, resale and informed purchasing decisions.

Preserving the Past While Appreciating the Future

The history of diamond cutting is a history of human ingenuity.

From the simple Point Cut of medieval Europe to the elaborate Rose Cuts, Old Mine Cuts and Old European Cuts of later centuries, every development reflects the knowledge, craftsmanship and aesthetic preferences of its time.

The modern brilliant cut may offer extraordinary optical performance, but it does not make the earlier styles obsolete.

An antique diamond can possess something that cannot be reproduced simply by using modern cutting equipment: genuine age, historical character and a connection to the craftsmanship of another era.

Whether it is an inherited Victorian ring, an Edwardian engagement ring, an Art Deco jewel or a contemporary design incorporating a Rose Cut, these diamonds continue to demonstrate that beauty is not always about maximum sparkle.

Sometimes, it is about individuality, history and the story held within the stone.

At DCLA, we believe that understanding a diamond begins with understanding its characteristics, its craftsmanship and its history. Every diamond has a story, and the old cuts are among the most fascinating chapters in that story.