Monday, 11 May 2026

WDC President Says “We Need To Finish The Job” On Conflict Diamonds As Debate Over Kimberley Process Expands

 Ronnie VanderLinden has succeeded Feriel Zerouki as World Diamond Council president.

At the latest World Diamond Council and Kimberley Process meeting in Mumbai, newly elected WDC president Ronnie VanderLinden called on the global jewellery industry to unite behind natural diamonds and push for an expanded definition of so called “conflict diamonds.”

The proposed changes would significantly widen the current Kimberley Process definition, which since 2003 has been limited to rough diamonds sold by rebel groups to finance wars against legitimate governments. Under the new proposal, violence connected to militias, mercenaries, criminal organisations, private military groups and potentially even state actors could all fall under the conflict diamond banner.

VanderLinden told delegates, “We came so close. Now we need to finish the job.”

But behind the moral language and calls for reform lies a far more uncomfortable question rarely discussed openly within the diamond trade.

How large was the actual conflict diamond trade in reality?

At the height of the African civil wars during the 1990s, estimates from the United Nations and industry bodies suggested conflict diamonds represented roughly 3 to 4 percent of global rough diamond production by value. Today, most estimates place that figure well below 1 percent.

In dollar terms, the genuine conflict diamond trade at its peak was estimated at several hundred million dollars annually within a global diamond industry worth tens of billions. While any violence linked to resource extraction is serious, the scale was often portrayed publicly as though the entire natural diamond industry was funding war and instability across Africa.

That narrative created enormous political momentum for the Kimberley Process, introduced in 2003 as an international certification scheme designed to stop rebel financed diamonds entering global markets.

However, critics inside and outside producing nations have long argued the system evolved into something far broader than simply preventing war financing.

Many believe the Kimberley Process became a mechanism that allowed major corporations, powerful producing nations and dominant trading centres to control supply chains, regulate market access and economically pressure smaller African producers attempting to sell diamonds independently into open markets.

Countries such as Sierra Leone, Liberia, Angola and the Democratic Republic of the Congo became heavily dependent on international approval systems dominated by larger political and commercial interests.

The irony is that diamonds themselves were never the root cause of these conflicts.

Civil wars in Africa were driven by poverty, corruption, political instability, foreign interference, weak governance and decades of exploitation dating back to colonial rule. Diamonds simply became a portable source of finance within conflicts that already existed.

In reality, many industries have financed wars throughout history including oil, rare earth minerals, timber, cobalt and even international banking systems. Yet diamonds alone became globally branded with a moral stigma powerful enough to reshape an entire industry.

Critics argue this was not accidental.

The conflict diamond campaign emerged during a period when multinational corporations and Western governments were seeking tighter control over commodity flows, sanctions enforcement and African resource markets. The emotional imagery used in campaigns helped justify increased oversight and certification structures that smaller producing nations often lacked the resources to comply with independently.

Some within the trade privately argue the Kimberley Process created barriers that favoured established corporate supply chains while limiting free market competition from smaller artisanal producers and emerging African exporters.

At the same time, the broader diamond industry has spent decades funding schools, hospitals, infrastructure and employment across producing nations such as Botswana and Namibia, where diamonds became critical pillars of national economic development.

This is part of what VanderLinden referenced when defending natural diamonds during his Mumbai address.

“We have to show what they do, the jobs they create, the communities they support, the countries they help build,” he said.

The timing is also significant.

The natural diamond industry is currently facing growing pressure from lab grown diamonds, weakening consumer demand in China, changing luxury spending patterns and increasing scrutiny over environmental and ethical claims.

Expanding the conflict diamond definition may help restore consumer confidence in natural diamonds, but it also risks reopening political debates about who controls certification systems and who ultimately benefits from them.

For many producing countries, the concern is not simply ethics but sovereignty.

The central issue remains whether international certification systems genuinely protect vulnerable populations or whether they increasingly function as economic gatekeeping tools controlled by powerful governments, NGOs and multinational interests.

The uncomfortable reality is that diamonds did not create Africa’s wars.

Human greed, political corruption, foreign interference and economic exploitation did.

And while the phrase “blood diamonds” became one of the most successful marketing narratives in modern history, the actual percentage of diamonds linked to rebel conflict was always relatively small compared with the enormous global trade in legitimate natural diamonds that continue to support millions of livelihoods around the world.

Sunday, 10 May 2026

The Natural Diamond Council has strongly rejected recent claims by Pandora

 The council warned that reducing the discussion solely to carbon comparisons risks misleading consumers

The Natural Diamond Council has strongly rejected recent claims by Pandora that lab-grown diamonds carry a carbon footprint up to 90 per cent lower than natural diamonds, describing the campaign as misleading and damaging to the global natural diamond industry.

Pandora based its claims on a 2019 study conducted by the former Diamond Producers Association, now operating as the Natural Diamond Council. However, the NDC argues the data relied upon is outdated, with some figures tracing back more than a decade, and says the study only reflected a limited segment of the natural diamond sector rather than the industry as a whole.

In an open letter addressed to Pandora CEO Berta De Pablos-Barbier, the NDC criticised what it described as a “PR stunt” designed to unfairly discredit natural diamonds in favour of synthetic alternatives.

The organisation further stated that comparisons between natural and lab-grown diamonds are inherently flawed because they represent two fundamentally different categories. According to the NDC, natural diamonds are rare geological creations formed over billions of years, while lab-grown diamonds are manufactured products capable of being produced in virtually unlimited quantities.

The council warned that reducing the discussion solely to carbon comparisons risks misleading consumers and spreading misinformation about the broader social and economic contribution of the natural diamond industry, which supports millions of people globally through mining, manufacturing and trade.

The NDC also called on Pandora to engage more constructively with industry bodies focused on improving sustainability, environmental stewardship and social responsibility across both the natural and synthetic diamond sectors.

Source: DCLA

Thursday, 7 May 2026

Lab-Grown Diamonds Face Growing Scrutiny Over Massive Energy Use and Carbon Footprint

 

According to Pandora, the new carbon footprint reporting is being introduced in response to increasing consumer expectations to sustainability

While jewellery retailer Pandora has introduced carbon footprint labelling for its laboratory-grown diamonds in response to growing consumer demand for sustainability and transparency, the announcement also highlights an important reality often overlooked in the marketing of synthetic diamonds laboratory-grown diamonds are highly energy-intensive products.

Creating laboratory-grown diamonds requires enormous amounts of electricity to replicate the extreme heat and pressure conditions found deep within the earth. Whether produced through High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT) or Chemical Vapour Deposition (CVD) technology, these processes rely on industrial machinery operating continuously for extended periods, consuming significant energy during crystal growth, cutting and polishing.

Pandora stated that its laboratory-grown diamonds are produced using “100% renewable energy” and claimed their carbon footprint is approximately 90% lower than mined diamonds. However, this depends heavily on the availability, reliability and verification of renewable energy sources, as well as regional electricity grids. In many parts of the world where laboratory-grown diamonds are manufactured, energy generation still relies substantially on fossil fuels, raising ongoing questions about the true environmental impact of mass synthetic diamond production.

The company’s new carbon footprint reporting covers emissions from raw material production through to polishing and has reportedly been verified by external life-cycle assessment experts and reviewed by EY. Pandora says the initiative aims to give consumers greater transparency alongside the traditional 4Cs Cut, Colour, Clarity and Carat by adding what it calls a “5th C” focused on climate impact.

At the same time, the broader diamond industry continues to debate the long-term sustainability claims surrounding laboratory-grown diamonds. Natural diamonds are created by nature over billions of years, while synthetic diamonds require constant industrial energy input to manufacture in controlled factory environments.

As consumer awareness grows, transparency around energy consumption, carbon reporting and manufacturing practices will likely become an increasingly important part of the conversation surrounding both natural and laboratory-grown diamonds.

Source: DCLA

Wednesday, 6 May 2026

Christie’s to Auction the Azure Blue, the Largest Fancy Blue Diamond Ever Offered

 5.04-carat Fancy Vivid Blue marquise-cut diamond

Christie’s has announced two exceptional natural blue diamonds for its upcoming Magnificent Jewels Auction sale at Rockefeller Center on June 9, highlighting the extraordinary rarity and complexity of the natural coloured diamond market.

Leading the sale is the Azure Blue, a remarkable 31.62-carat pear-shaped Fancy Blue diamond described by Christie’s as the largest Fancy Blue diamond ever offered at auction. The stone carries a pre-sale estimate of USD $6.5 to $8.5 million. Interestingly, sharing almost the identical estimate is a second diamond in the same auction: a 5.04-carat Fancy Vivid Blue marquise-cut diamond. Despite the dramatic size difference, the valuations sit within the same range, illustrating the immense importance of colour grading in the rare blue diamond market.

Natural blue diamonds derive their colour from boron, a trace element incorporated into the diamond’s crystal structure during formation deep within the Earth’s mantle. Boron causes selective absorption of red, orange, and yellow light wavelengths, leaving blue wavelengths dominant to the human eye.

the Azure Blue, a remarkable 31.62-carat pear-shaped Fancy Blue diamond


Blue diamonds are exceptionally rare, predominantly occurring within the Type IIb category, which accounts for fewer than 0.1 per cent of all natural diamonds. Many Type IIb diamonds also possess electrical conductivity, a highly unusual physical property rarely seen in gem materials.

Within the blue diamond category, colour saturation is one of the most significant drivers of value. GIA grades blue diamonds across a spectrum including Fancy Light, Fancy, Fancy Intense, Fancy Vivid, Fancy Deep, and Fancy Dark. Among these, Fancy Vivid Blue represents the highest level of saturation and rarity found in nature.

The Azure Blue carries a Fancy Blue grade, combined with exceptional size and clarity, reportedly potentially Internally Flawless. It is a stone of immense importance for collectors and connoisseurs alike. However, the 5.04-carat marquise achieves the far rarer Fancy Vivid Blue grade, alongside VVS2 clarity and Type IIb classification. That single grading distinction effectively compensates for the significant size difference between the two stones, explaining why Christie’s has valued them similarly.

The Azure Blue is mounted in a platinum ring featuring a concealed halo of natural pink diamonds, while the 5.04-carat Fancy Vivid Blue marquise is set in platinum with baguette-cut side diamonds. Both mountings are intentionally understated, allowing the diamonds themselves to remain the focal point.

Recent auction history demonstrates the extraordinary premiums achieved by the finest Fancy Vivid Blue diamonds. In May 2023, the The De Beers Blue sold at Sotheby’s Geneva for USD $57.5 million, achieving approximately USD $3.8 million per carat. Prior to that, the The Oppenheimer Blue achieved the same price at Christie’s Geneva in 2016, becoming the most expensive jewel ever sold at auction at the time.

In 2015, the Blue Moon of Josephine sold for USD $48.4 million at Sotheby’s Geneva after being purchased by Hong Kong businessman Joseph Lau for his daughter.

All of these record-breaking stones shared the coveted Fancy Vivid Blue grade, helping explain their extraordinary per-carat values. While the Azure Blue surpasses them all in physical size, its Fancy Blue classification places it within a different rarity category. By contrast, the 5.04-carat marquise sits within the same elite colour tier as those historic diamonds, reinforcing the significance of its estimate.

Christie’s continues to play a leading role in presenting some of the world’s most important natural coloured diamonds to market. According to Claibourne Poindexter, Head of Jewelry Americas at Christie’s, “With its striking color, exceptional size, and elegant shape, The Azure Blue is a rare masterpiece of nature.”

The appearance of both the Azure Blue and a highly significant Fancy Vivid Blue diamond within the same sale positions the June 9 Magnificent Jewels auction as one of the most important blue diamond auction events in recent years.

Source: DCLA

Tuesday, 5 May 2026

Dwayne Johnson made a powerful statement in high jewellery horology

 Billionaire III watch by Jacob & Co

At the 2026 Met Gala in New York, Dwayne Johnson made a powerful statement in high jewellery horology, showcasing a timepiece that exemplifies extreme diamond craftsmanship and scale.

Johnson complemented his tailored look by Thom Browne with the extraordinary Billionaire III watch by Jacob & Co.. The piece is set with an exceptional 714 diamonds, with a total weight exceeding 129 carats placing it firmly among the most significant high-jewellery watches ever produced. Reported at a value of USD $3.3 million, the watch reflects both technical mastery and the continued demand for ultra-rare diamond-set creations at the highest level of the luxury market.

Dwayne Johnson


From a gemmological perspective, the uniformity, matching, and setting of such a large number of stones particularly across a wearable timepiece demonstrates the precision and sourcing expertise required in top-tier diamond manufacturing. Each stone must meet strict criteria for colour, clarity, and cut consistency to achieve the seamless brilliance expected in a piece of this calibre.

The Billionaire III represents more than excess; it highlights the intersection of haute horlogerie and high jewellery, where diamonds are not merely decorative, but central to the identity and value of the piece. As noted by Jacob Arabo, the watch stands as a flagship creation designed for individuals who command presence an ethos clearly aligned with Johnson’s public persona.

Johnson attended alongside his wife, Lauren Hashian, marking their debut at the event. While fashion dominated the evening, it was this remarkable diamond timepiece that drew significant attention within the jewellery and gemmological community.

For the industry, moments like this reinforce the enduring cultural and investment significance of diamonds at the highest level where craftsmanship, rarity, and spectacle converge.

Source: DCLA

Monday, 4 May 2026

Divorce Rings Are Trending, But Knowing What You Own Matters Even More

 The rise of the so-called “divorce ring” reflects a broader shift in how women are approaching jewellery

The rise of the so-called “divorce ring” reflects a broader shift in how women are approaching jewellery today. Increasingly, they are choosing to buy their own diamonds not as symbols of commitment to someone else, but as a statement of independence, strength, and a new chapter.

But beyond the trend, there is a far more important and often overlooked issue understanding exactly what you own, and what it is truly worth.

Whether jewellery is being purchased, gifted, or included as part of a divorce settlement, the stakes are high. Diamond rings and fine jewellery are not just emotional assets; they are significant financial assets. Accepting a piece of jewellery without knowing its true quality and value can lead to serious financial disadvantage.

This is where independent verification becomes critical.

The Diamond Certification Laboratory of Australia (DCLA) is Australia’s internationally recognised authority in diamond grading and certification, operating in alignment with global standards. With decades of expertise, DCLA provides precise, unbiased assessments of diamonds and jewellery ensuring that what you believe you have is exactly what you own.

In the context of divorce settlements, this is particularly important. Jewellery is often assigned a nominal or estimated value without proper laboratory grading. However, factors such as diamond quality, treatments, origin, and craftsmanship can dramatically impact true market value. Without expert certification, there is simply no way to make an informed decision.

Before you accept a ring or any piece of jewellery as part of a settlement or before you invest in a new piece to mark a fresh start it is essential to have it independently assessed.

DCLA’s role is not just to grade diamonds, but to protect consumers through knowledge and transparency. In moments where emotions and financial decisions intersect, clarity is everything.

Trends may come and go, but one principle remains constant:
Know what you have, know what it’s worth, and make decisions based on facts, not assumptions.


Sunday, 3 May 2026

Steep Rise in De Beers Rough Production

 Steep Rise in De Beers Rough Production

De Beers says rough diamond production increased by 17% in the first three months of 2026, to 7.1 million carats.

The increase was largely driven by the release of stockpiled ore at Gahcho Kue, in Canada, (up 163%) and higher underground volumes at Venetia in South Africa (up 53%).

The loss-making miner said, however, that trading conditions remained “challenged” due to ongoing industry, geopolitical and tariff headwinds.

Rough sales at the two sights held during the quarter saw revenue rise, year-on-year by almost 25% to $648 million, although average per carat prices fell 19% to $101.

Production guidance for 2026 remains unchanged at 21-26 million carats, the company said in its Production Report for the First Quarter of 2026, published on 28 April.  

Actual rough production was 24.7 million carats in 2024 and 21.7 million carats in 2025.

Botswana, which accounts for more than two thirds of all De Beers’ diamonds, saw production rise by 5% year-on-year during Q1 2026.

There was a 12% drop in Namibia, due to scheduled maintenance on two vessels at Debmarine Namibia and the of decommissioning two vessels.

There was 53% production rise in South Africa, largely due to increased processing of underground ore from Venetia, and a 163% increase in Canada due to the planned release of ore from a new area of Gahcho Kue.

Source: DCLA

WDC President Says “We Need To Finish The Job” On Conflict Diamonds As Debate Over Kimberley Process Expands

  At the latest World Diamond Council and Kimberley Process meeting in Mumbai, newly elected WDC president Ronnie VanderLinden called on the...