Bell & Ross Takes Flight with the New BR-05 36mm Blue Diamond Eagle

 

Swiss watchmaker Bell & Ross has launched the striking new BR-05 36mm Blue Diamond Eagle, combining aviation inspired design with a fresh and imaginative approach to diamond set watches.

Rather than following the traditional formula of simply adding diamonds to a smaller ladies’ watch, Bell & Ross has created something far more distinctive. The BR-05 36mm Blue Diamond Eagle features a deep blue aventurine glass dial designed to resemble the night sky. Across the dial, 18 diamonds are arranged to recreate the Eagle constellation, with larger stones representing the brighter stars.

According to Bell & Ross Managing Director Fabien de Nonancourt, the eagle theme ties directly into the brand’s aviation heritage.

“One of the things Bell & Ross is about is aviation. So it’s about being in the sky, and the king of the sky is the eagle,” he explained.

The result is a creative and elegant interpretation of the classic diamond watch, while remaining relatively accessible with a retail price of approximately AUD $6,800.

Founded in 1992 by childhood friends Bruno Belamich and Carlos Rosillo, Bell & Ross built its reputation on professional instrument watches inspired by military aviation and extreme environments. The brand became instantly recognisable with its signature “circle within a square” case design first introduced with the BR-01 in 2005.

Over the years, Bell & Ross has balanced functionality with bold creativity. Collections such as the BR-03 Flight Instruments series have showcased colourful aviation inspired displays while maintaining accessible pricing and strong everyday wearability.

At the higher end of the market, the brand has also expanded into more technical haute horlogerie creations. One recent example is the BR-X3 Tourbillon Micro-Rotor, a limited edition skeletonised model featuring a manufacture movement developed with Swiss specialist Concepto.

Building on that success, Bell & Ross has now introduced the more accessible BR-X3 Micro-Rotor. While it omits the tourbillon complication, the watch retains the same architectural aesthetic, inspired by the geometric works of Dutch artist Piet Mondrian and designer Charlotte Perriand.

The 40mm steel watch features a semi skeletonised dial with a striking grid pattern, while maintaining a slim 9mm profile thanks to its integrated micro rotor movement and minimalist case construction.

De Nonancourt believes collectors are increasingly seeking originality and individuality in modern watchmaking.

“What we are seeing now is that people are looking for creative products, and something different that nobody else has. That’s the strength of Bell & Ross,” he said.

Despite ongoing geopolitical uncertainty affecting luxury markets globally, the brand says its performance in 2025 has remained stable as it continues focusing on innovation and distinctive design.

Source: DCLA

India’s Lab Grown Diamond Exports Surpass Natural Diamonds for the First Time

 

India’s polished lab grown diamond exports have overtaken natural diamond exports by volume for the first time, marking a significant shift in the global diamond manufacturing industry.

According to figures released by the Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), exports of polished lab grown diamonds reached 18.84 million carats during the financial year ending March 2026, an increase of almost 31 per cent year on year.

By comparison, polished natural diamond exports fell nearly 4 per cent to 16.00 million carats.

Despite the dramatic rise in lab grown volumes, natural diamonds continue to generate the overwhelming majority of industry revenue due to the substantial price difference between the two categories. Average export values for natural diamonds remain around US$760 per carat, compared to approximately US$60 per carat for lab grown goods.

As a result, natural diamond exports generated approximately US$12.16 billion during the year, while lab grown exports totalled around US$95.52 million.

The figures nevertheless highlight the rapid transformation of India’s diamond manufacturing sector. Just a decade ago, in 2015 to 2016, India exported only around 10,000 carats of polished lab grown diamonds.

Recent monthly data suggests the trend is continuing. During April 2026, India exported 1.36 million carats of polished lab grown diamonds, marginally exceeding natural diamond exports of 1.34 million carats.

The continued growth of lab grown production is reshaping the global diamond trade and placing increasing pressure on the natural diamond pipeline, particularly in the lower price categories.

The Future of Canada’s Ice Road Under Threat

The long term future of Canada’s famous Tibbitt to Contwoyto Winter Road, the critical supply route servicing diamond mines in the country’s far north, is increasingly uncertain amid mine closures, financial instability and warmer winters.

The 370 mile ice road, commonly known as the TCWR, stretches across frozen lakes and remote terrain in the Northwest Territories near the Arctic Circle. For decades it has provided an essential seasonal transport link to the region’s major diamond operations, including Diavik, Ekati and Gahcho Kué.

However, the future viability of the route is now being questioned.

Rio Tinto officially closed the Diavik Diamond Mine in March 2026, while Ekati Diamond Mine entered creditor protection proceedings in April. Meanwhile, De Beers operated Gahcho Kué Mine continues to face significant financial pressure.

The winter road plays a vital logistical role each year, allowing operators to transport fuel, cement, heavy mining equipment, tyres and explosives during a narrow eight to ten week operating window when the lakes remain frozen.

Construction and maintenance of the road reportedly costs around US$20 million annually.

Following the closure of Diavik, De Beers has assumed oversight responsibilities for future operations of the road and has confirmed planning is underway for the 2027 season.

However, uncertainty remains over how long the route can continue operating, particularly as increasingly mild winter conditions shorten the period of safe ice access.

Local media reports have raised concerns over whether sufficient funding and operational support will remain available in coming years, fuelling speculation that the famous ice road may be approaching the end of its operational life.

Source: DCLA

Diamond Shapes and the Impact of Rough Recovery on Pricing

 

Insights from the Diamond Certification Laboratory of Australia (DCLA)

In the diamond industry, shape is far more than an aesthetic choice. It plays a direct role in value, pricing structure, and how efficiently a rough diamond can be transformed into a polished stone. At the Diamond Certification Laboratory of Australia Diamond Certification Laboratory of Australia (DCLA), one of the key considerations in diamond assessment is how much of the original rough crystal is recovered during polishing.

This recovery rate, often referred to as yield, is one of the hidden drivers behind diamond pricing and helps explain why different shapes are priced differently in the wholesale and retail markets.

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Understanding Rough Diamond Recovery

When a rough diamond is cut and polished, a significant portion of the original crystal is lost. This loss is unavoidable due to the need to remove inclusions, shape the stone, and maximise brilliance.

Different shapes produce different recovery percentages:

• Higher yield shapes retain more of the original rough
• Lower yield shapes sacrifice more material to achieve optical performance and symmetry

This difference directly impacts cost efficiency for cutters and ultimately influences market pricing.

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Round Brilliant Cut: The Lowest Yield but Highest Demand

The round brilliant cut remains the most popular diamond shape globally due to its unmatched brilliance and light performance. However, it also has the lowest average recovery rate, typically ranging from 40 percent to 45 percent of the original rough diamond.

This means that more than half of the rough stone is lost during cutting. As a result, cutters must allocate more rough carat weight to produce a finished round brilliant diamond.

Because of this inefficiency, round diamonds carry a distinct pricing structure. They are often listed on a separate price sheet compared to fancy shapes, reflecting their lower yield and consistently strong market demand.

In practice, this means:

• Higher cost per polished carat
• Separate pricing benchmarks in global diamond trading
• Strong liquidity due to consumer preference

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Fancy Shapes and Higher Recovery Efficiency

Fancy shaped diamonds generally achieve higher recovery rates, often between 50 percent and 70 percent depending on the specific shape and quality of the rough stone.

Common fancy shapes include:

• Oval
• Cushion
• Princess
• Emerald
• Pear
• Marquise
• Radiant
• Asscher

These shapes allow cutters to follow the natural structure of the rough diamond more efficiently, reducing waste and improving yield.

Because more of the rough diamond is preserved, fancy shapes are generally more cost efficient to produce. This efficiency is reflected in their pricing, which is typically lower per carat compared to round brilliant diamonds of equivalent quality.

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Why Shape Drives Price Differences

The difference in pricing between round and fancy shapes is not simply a matter of popularity. It is fundamentally linked to manufacturing economics.

Key factors include:

1. Rough Utilisation

Round diamonds require significantly more rough material per finished carat, increasing production cost.

2. Cutting Strategy

Fancy shapes are often designed to maximise retention of weight from irregular rough crystals, improving overall yield.

3. Market Demand

Round brilliant diamonds remain the most in demand, which further strengthens their premium pricing structure.

4. Inventory and Supply Chain

Because fewer polished carats are produced from the same amount of rough, round diamonds are less efficient to supply, reinforcing their separate pricing benchmarks.

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Separate Pricing Structure for Round Brilliant Diamonds

Due to their unique combination of high demand and low recovery efficiency, round brilliant diamonds are typically priced using a dedicated pricing list in the wholesale market.

This separation reflects:

• Higher manufacturing loss during cutting
• Consistent global demand for round brilliance
• Different valuation dynamics compared to fancy shapes

Fancy shapes, by contrast, are generally grouped within broader pricing frameworks that account for their higher yield and more flexible cutting outcomes.

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Diamond shape is not only a design choice but a critical economic factor in the diamond industry. Recovery rates from rough stone directly influence pricing structures, with round brilliant diamonds standing apart due to their lower yield and strong consumer demand.

At DCLA, understanding these differences is essential for accurate valuation, certification, and market analysis. As the diamond trade continues to evolve, the relationship between rough recovery and polished pricing remains one of the most important principles shaping global diamond values.

Source: DCLA

30.20ct Fancy Intense Yellow Diamond to Headline Bonhams New York Auction

 

A remarkable 30.20 carat fancy intense yellow diamond is set to lead the upcoming June 8 Exceptional Jewels auction at Bonhams in New York, carrying an estimated value of up to US$550,000.

The centerpiece ring features a cushion cut fancy intense yellow diamond graded VS2 clarity, mounted within a surround of round brilliant cut diamonds. The impressive stone is expected to attract strong international attention as demand for rare coloured diamonds continues to remain firm among collectors and high net worth buyers.

The New York auction will present more than 150 exceptional jewellery lots, including important creations from renowned houses such as Harry Winston, Tiffany & Co. and Cartier.

Among the standout pieces featured in the sale are:

• An emerald cut 11.20 carat E colour VS1 clarity diamond ring with an estimate of US$250,000 to US$350,000.

• A Harry Winston ring showcasing a 7.08 carat cushion cut Colombian emerald flanked by tapered baguette cut diamonds, also estimated at US$250,000 to US$350,000.

• An 8.23 carat faint pink internally flawless diamond ring surrounded by round brilliant cut diamonds and accented with trapezoid side stones, carrying an estimate of US$180,000 to US$280,000.

• A pair of diamond earrings featuring matching 5.01 carat cushion cut E colour VS1 clarity diamonds, suspended beneath kite shaped diamonds, estimated at US$180,000 to US$280,000.

The sale highlights the continued strength of the high end coloured diamond and important gemstone market, particularly for rare natural fancy colour diamonds and exceptional signed jewellery pieces.

Source: DCLA

Two Exceptional Blue Diamonds Headline Christie’s New York Auction

 

Luxury auction house Christie’s will present two extraordinary blue diamonds at its Magnificent Jewels sale in New York on 9 June, each carrying an estimate of USD $6.5 million to $8.5 million.

Leading the sale is the 31.62 carat pear shaped “Azure Blue”, the largest fancy blue diamond ever offered at auction. The diamond has been graded by Gemological Institute of America as potentially Internally Flawless, placing it among the rarest blue diamonds to appear on the market in recent years.

Also featured is a 5.04 carat fancy vivid blue marquise modified brilliant cut diamond. The Type IIb stone carries a VVS2 clarity grade and is also considered potentially Internally Flawless. It is mounted in a platinum ring with tapered baguette diamonds.

Among the additional highlights is a 15.49 carat sapphire ring, expected to realise between USD $1.2 million and $1.8 million.

Signet Retains Top Position in North American Jewellery Sales

Signet Jewelers has once again been named the highest grossing jewellery retailer in North America in National Jeweler magazine’s annual State of the Majors report.

The company recorded jewellery and watch sales of approximately USD $6.36 billion across 2,329 locations during 2025, maintaining a substantial lead over competitors.

Swiss luxury group Richemont moved into second position, overtaking Walmart. Richemont generated approximately USD $3.62 billion in jewellery and watch sales from just 105 retail locations.

Other notable movements in the rankings included Costco rising to fifth place, Pandora advancing to seventh, and Watches of Switzerland entering the top ten.

The report noted a slight increase in the number of “superseller” jewellery and watch retailers generating more than USD $100 million annually, rising from 36 companies in 2024 to 37 in 2025.

Russia Plans Diamond Export Duties to Support Domestic Cutting Sector

Russia’s Finance Ministry has confirmed plans to introduce export duties on selected diamond exports later this year in an effort to support the country’s struggling domestic cutting and polishing industry.

Deputy Finance Minister Alexei Moiseev stated that the proposed tariff system is currently being discussed with Alrosa, the world’s largest diamond producer by volume.

According to Moiseev, the export duties would apply only to rough diamonds considered economically viable for local manufacturing, with the intention of preserving Russia’s remaining cutting expertise.

The Russian diamond sector continues to face significant pressure following US sanctions imposed on Alrosa in 2022 and the January 2024 G7 restrictions on Russian diamond imports.

Despite the ongoing challenges, Russian officials have indicated they are beginning to see signs of stabilisation within the global diamond market. Alrosa reduced production by 10 per cent in 2025 to 29.8 million carats and forecasts a further decline to between 25 and 26 million carats in 2026.

Source: DCLA

Gem Diamonds’ Large Stone Recoveries Lift Quarterly Revenue

 

reported quarterly revenue of US$32.1 million for the period ending 31 March 2026, supported by the continued recovery and sale of exceptional large diamonds from its Letšeng mine in Lesotho.

The company achieved an average price of US$1,501 per carat at its first export sale of the year, representing a 17% increase from the previous quarter. Although total carats sold declined 21% to 16,727 carats, Gem Diamonds deferred part of its production into the second quarter.

A key contributor to revenue was the sale of 10 diamonds larger than 10.8 carats, including a remarkable 191.82 carat Type IIa white diamond. These stones generated US$7 million during the quarter, with the balance of the parcel still to be sold.

Gem Diamonds highlighted that four exceptional stones sold for more than US$1 million each, contributing a combined US$9.9 million in revenue. The highest value achieved during the quarter was US$32,908 per carat for a 52.24 carat white diamond.

The company also recovered two additional stones exceeding 100 carats during the quarter, including another 191.82 carat diamond and a 100.71 carat faint yellow diamond scheduled for sale in the second quarter.

Production at the Letšeng mine remained weighted towards the lower grade Main Pipe in line with the mine plan, while contribution from the higher value Satellite Pipe was reduced. Ore treated declined 3% quarter on quarter to 1.33 million tonnes, while total carat recovery increased 3% to 21,605 carats.

The results continue to demonstrate the resilience of the high value large diamond market, even as broader polished diamond demand and consumer spending remain under pressure globally.

Gem Diamonds stated that all operational and financial metrics remain within its 2026 guidance.

Source: DCLA

Botswana and Angola Governments Join WFDB as Industry Seeks Closer Producer Links

 

The governments of Botswana and Angola have officially become affiliated members of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses in a significant move that strengthens ties between major diamond producing nations and the global trading sector.

The announcement was made on 18 May during the WFDB International Summit held in Gaborone.

Although neither country currently operates a fully established standalone diamond bourse, both nations have sought representation within the WFDB due to the critical role diamonds play in their economies. Botswana remains the world’s second largest producer of natural diamonds, while Angola continues to expand its position as a major African diamond producer and trading hub.

This marks the first time governments have been admitted into the WFDB, which represents the world’s leading diamond bourses and trading centres. Botswana and Angola have initially been granted affiliate membership status, with both countries expected to participate as full WFDB members at the World Diamond Congress 2026 in Singapore this July.

Bogolo Kenewendo, Botswana’s Minister of Minerals and Energy, said the membership demonstrates the country’s commitment to international co operation, responsible industry growth, and strengthening the position of natural diamonds in an increasingly competitive market shaped by synthetic stones.

For Botswana, direct engagement with the trading community is expected to enhance collaboration around transparency, traceability, and the differentiation of natural diamonds from lab grown products.

Diamantino Azevedo, Angola’s Minister of Mineral Resources, described the move as an important step in deepening Angola’s engagement with the international diamond trade while supporting broader industry collaboration. Angola has spent several years developing plans for its own diamond exchange as part of wider reforms aimed at modernising the country’s diamond sector.

Kimberley Process Faces Renewed Criticism Ahead of Mumbai Meeting

Meanwhile, the Kimberley Process has come under renewed pressure from civil society groups ahead of last week’s intersessional meeting in Mumbai.

The Kimberley Process Civil Society Coalition issued a strongly worded assessment criticising what it described as another failed reform cycle. The group argued that the KP continues to struggle with redefining conflict diamonds, addressing compliance concerns, and delivering meaningful transparency measures.

Farai Maguwu, vice coordinator of the KP Civil Society Coalition, said the natural diamond industry often focuses on competition from lab grown diamonds while failing to confront long standing structural issues within the sector itself.

He stated that the Kimberley Process must move beyond “superficial marketing adjustments” and instead become more transparent, accountable, and capable of responding to modern diamond related abuses.

However, World Diamond Council president Ronnie VanderLinden offered a far more optimistic assessment following the conclusion of the meeting.

VanderLinden praised the co operation shown by participants and said the KP demonstrated its ability to work through difficult issues under pressure. He also commended India’s leadership and its focus on the “3Cs” vision of Confidence, Credibility, and Compliance.

He added that the industry must now find the determination to modernise the definition of conflict diamonds so it better reflects current global realities and expectations surrounding responsible sourcing and ethical trade.

Source: DCLA