Lab-Grown Diamonds Face Growing Scrutiny Over Massive Energy Use and Carbon Footprint

 

While jewellery retailer Pandora has introduced carbon footprint labelling for its laboratory-grown diamonds in response to growing consumer demand for sustainability and transparency, the announcement also highlights an important reality often overlooked in the marketing of synthetic diamonds laboratory-grown diamonds are highly energy-intensive products.

Creating laboratory-grown diamonds requires enormous amounts of electricity to replicate the extreme heat and pressure conditions found deep within the earth. Whether produced through High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT) or Chemical Vapour Deposition (CVD) technology, these processes rely on industrial machinery operating continuously for extended periods, consuming significant energy during crystal growth, cutting and polishing.

Pandora stated that its laboratory-grown diamonds are produced using “100% renewable energy” and claimed their carbon footprint is approximately 90% lower than mined diamonds. However, this depends heavily on the availability, reliability and verification of renewable energy sources, as well as regional electricity grids. In many parts of the world where laboratory-grown diamonds are manufactured, energy generation still relies substantially on fossil fuels, raising ongoing questions about the true environmental impact of mass synthetic diamond production.

The company’s new carbon footprint reporting covers emissions from raw material production through to polishing and has reportedly been verified by external life-cycle assessment experts and reviewed by EY. Pandora says the initiative aims to give consumers greater transparency alongside the traditional 4Cs Cut, Colour, Clarity and Carat by adding what it calls a “5th C” focused on climate impact.

At the same time, the broader diamond industry continues to debate the long-term sustainability claims surrounding laboratory-grown diamonds. Natural diamonds are created by nature over billions of years, while synthetic diamonds require constant industrial energy input to manufacture in controlled factory environments.

As consumer awareness grows, transparency around energy consumption, carbon reporting and manufacturing practices will likely become an increasingly important part of the conversation surrounding both natural and laboratory-grown diamonds.

Source: DCLA

Christie’s to Auction the Azure Blue, the Largest Fancy Blue Diamond Ever Offered

 

Christie’s has announced two exceptional natural blue diamonds for its upcoming Magnificent Jewels Auction sale at Rockefeller Center on June 9, highlighting the extraordinary rarity and complexity of the natural coloured diamond market.

Leading the sale is the Azure Blue, a remarkable 31.62-carat pear-shaped Fancy Blue diamond described by Christie’s as the largest Fancy Blue diamond ever offered at auction. The stone carries a pre-sale estimate of USD $6.5 to $8.5 million. Interestingly, sharing almost the identical estimate is a second diamond in the same auction: a 5.04-carat Fancy Vivid Blue marquise-cut diamond. Despite the dramatic size difference, the valuations sit within the same range, illustrating the immense importance of colour grading in the rare blue diamond market.

Natural blue diamonds derive their colour from boron, a trace element incorporated into the diamond’s crystal structure during formation deep within the Earth’s mantle. Boron causes selective absorption of red, orange, and yellow light wavelengths, leaving blue wavelengths dominant to the human eye.

Blue diamonds are exceptionally rare, predominantly occurring within the Type IIb category, which accounts for fewer than 0.1 per cent of all natural diamonds. Many Type IIb diamonds also possess electrical conductivity, a highly unusual physical property rarely seen in gem materials.

Within the blue diamond category, colour saturation is one of the most significant drivers of value. GIA grades blue diamonds across a spectrum including Fancy Light, Fancy, Fancy Intense, Fancy Vivid, Fancy Deep, and Fancy Dark. Among these, Fancy Vivid Blue represents the highest level of saturation and rarity found in nature.

The Azure Blue carries a Fancy Blue grade, combined with exceptional size and clarity, reportedly potentially Internally Flawless. It is a stone of immense importance for collectors and connoisseurs alike. However, the 5.04-carat marquise achieves the far rarer Fancy Vivid Blue grade, alongside VVS2 clarity and Type IIb classification. That single grading distinction effectively compensates for the significant size difference between the two stones, explaining why Christie’s has valued them similarly.

The Azure Blue is mounted in a platinum ring featuring a concealed halo of natural pink diamonds, while the 5.04-carat Fancy Vivid Blue marquise is set in platinum with baguette-cut side diamonds. Both mountings are intentionally understated, allowing the diamonds themselves to remain the focal point.

Recent auction history demonstrates the extraordinary premiums achieved by the finest Fancy Vivid Blue diamonds. In May 2023, the The De Beers Blue sold at Sotheby’s Geneva for USD $57.5 million, achieving approximately USD $3.8 million per carat. Prior to that, the The Oppenheimer Blue achieved the same price at Christie’s Geneva in 2016, becoming the most expensive jewel ever sold at auction at the time.

In 2015, the Blue Moon of Josephine sold for USD $48.4 million at Sotheby’s Geneva after being purchased by Hong Kong businessman Joseph Lau for his daughter.

All of these record-breaking stones shared the coveted Fancy Vivid Blue grade, helping explain their extraordinary per-carat values. While the Azure Blue surpasses them all in physical size, its Fancy Blue classification places it within a different rarity category. By contrast, the 5.04-carat marquise sits within the same elite colour tier as those historic diamonds, reinforcing the significance of its estimate.

Christie’s continues to play a leading role in presenting some of the world’s most important natural coloured diamonds to market. According to Claibourne Poindexter, Head of Jewelry Americas at Christie’s, “With its striking color, exceptional size, and elegant shape, The Azure Blue is a rare masterpiece of nature.”

The appearance of both the Azure Blue and a highly significant Fancy Vivid Blue diamond within the same sale positions the June 9 Magnificent Jewels auction as one of the most important blue diamond auction events in recent years.

Source: DCLA

Dwayne Johnson made a powerful statement in high jewellery horology

 

At the 2026 Met Gala in New York, Dwayne Johnson made a powerful statement in high jewellery horology, showcasing a timepiece that exemplifies extreme diamond craftsmanship and scale.

Johnson complemented his tailored look by Thom Browne with the extraordinary Billionaire III watch by Jacob & Co.. The piece is set with an exceptional 714 diamonds, with a total weight exceeding 129 carats placing it firmly among the most significant high-jewellery watches ever produced. Reported at a value of USD $3.3 million, the watch reflects both technical mastery and the continued demand for ultra-rare diamond-set creations at the highest level of the luxury market.

From a gemmological perspective, the uniformity, matching, and setting of such a large number of stones particularly across a wearable timepiece demonstrates the precision and sourcing expertise required in top-tier diamond manufacturing. Each stone must meet strict criteria for colour, clarity, and cut consistency to achieve the seamless brilliance expected in a piece of this calibre.

The Billionaire III represents more than excess; it highlights the intersection of haute horlogerie and high jewellery, where diamonds are not merely decorative, but central to the identity and value of the piece. As noted by Jacob Arabo, the watch stands as a flagship creation designed for individuals who command presence an ethos clearly aligned with Johnson’s public persona.

Johnson attended alongside his wife, Lauren Hashian, marking their debut at the event. While fashion dominated the evening, it was this remarkable diamond timepiece that drew significant attention within the jewellery and gemmological community.

For the industry, moments like this reinforce the enduring cultural and investment significance of diamonds at the highest level where craftsmanship, rarity, and spectacle converge.

Source: DCLA

Divorce Rings Are Trending, But Knowing What You Own Matters Even More

 

The rise of the so-called “divorce ring” reflects a broader shift in how women are approaching jewellery today. Increasingly, they are choosing to buy their own diamonds not as symbols of commitment to someone else, but as a statement of independence, strength, and a new chapter.

But beyond the trend, there is a far more important and often overlooked issue understanding exactly what you own, and what it is truly worth.

Whether jewellery is being purchased, gifted, or included as part of a divorce settlement, the stakes are high. Diamond rings and fine jewellery are not just emotional assets; they are significant financial assets. Accepting a piece of jewellery without knowing its true quality and value can lead to serious financial disadvantage.

This is where independent verification becomes critical.

The Diamond Certification Laboratory of Australia (DCLA) is Australia’s internationally recognised authority in diamond grading and certification, operating in alignment with global standards. With decades of expertise, DCLA provides precise, unbiased assessments of diamonds and jewellery ensuring that what you believe you have is exactly what you own.

In the context of divorce settlements, this is particularly important. Jewellery is often assigned a nominal or estimated value without proper laboratory grading. However, factors such as diamond quality, treatments, origin, and craftsmanship can dramatically impact true market value. Without expert certification, there is simply no way to make an informed decision.

Before you accept a ring or any piece of jewellery as part of a settlement or before you invest in a new piece to mark a fresh start it is essential to have it independently assessed.

DCLA’s role is not just to grade diamonds, but to protect consumers through knowledge and transparency. In moments where emotions and financial decisions intersect, clarity is everything.

Trends may come and go, but one principle remains constant:
Know what you have, know what it’s worth, and make decisions based on facts, not assumptions.

Steep Rise in De Beers Rough Production

 

De Beers says rough diamond production increased by 17% in the first three months of 2026, to 7.1 million carats.

The increase was largely driven by the release of stockpiled ore at Gahcho Kue, in Canada, (up 163%) and higher underground volumes at Venetia in South Africa (up 53%).

The loss-making miner said, however, that trading conditions remained “challenged” due to ongoing industry, geopolitical and tariff headwinds.

Rough sales at the two sights held during the quarter saw revenue rise, year-on-year by almost 25% to $648 million, although average per carat prices fell 19% to $101.

Production guidance for 2026 remains unchanged at 21-26 million carats, the company said in its Production Report for the First Quarter of 2026, published on 28 April.  

Actual rough production was 24.7 million carats in 2024 and 21.7 million carats in 2025.

Botswana, which accounts for more than two thirds of all De Beers’ diamonds, saw production rise by 5% year-on-year during Q1 2026.

There was a 12% drop in Namibia, due to scheduled maintenance on two vessels at Debmarine Namibia and the of decommissioning two vessels.

There was 53% production rise in South Africa, largely due to increased processing of underground ore from Venetia, and a 163% increase in Canada due to the planned release of ore from a new area of Gahcho Kue.

Source: DCLA

Rough Diamond Jewellery Gains Momentum in the UK and USA

 

A clear shift is underway across the jewellery markets in the United Kingdom and the United States, where demand for rough, uncut diamond jewellery continues to accelerate. Against a backdrop of geopolitical tension and economic uncertainty, consumers are increasingly drawn to pieces that represent authenticity, individuality, and a deeper connection to natural origins.

Unlike traditional polished stones, rough diamonds present an organic, untouched aesthetic each one inherently unique. This raw beauty is resonating strongly with a new generation of buyers who prioritise personal expression over conventional notions of perfection. In this segment, irregularity is not a flaw, but a defining feature of value.

The momentum behind this trend has been amplified by the expansion of the De Beers Talisman collection. By pairing rough and polished diamonds in innovative designs, the collection has successfully repositioned rough stones within high jewellery bridging traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design language and attracting both collectors and design-led consumers.

From a broader market perspective, the rise of rough diamond jewellery reflects a growing preference for tangible, meaningful assets. In uncertain times, buyers are seeking rarity, permanence, and intrinsic value qualities naturally embodied by diamonds in their most authentic form.

For the trade, this evolution presents both opportunity and responsibility. Educating consumers on the characteristics, formation, and grading complexities of rough diamonds remains critical, alongside maintaining transparency and provenance areas where DCLA continues to play a pivotal role.

As the market evolves, rough diamonds are no longer viewed as unfinished they are increasingly recognised as a deliberate, sophisticated choice.

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6.03ct Fancy Vivid Blue Diamond Could Fetch Up to $12 Million

A rare 6.03-carat fancy vivid blue diamond is set to headline an upcoming auction at Sotheby’s Geneva, with expectations reaching as high as CHF 9.5 million (approximately USD $12.2 million).

The cushion-modified brilliant, classified as a Type IIb diamond, originates from South Africa’s renowned Cullinan mine and is set in a platinum ring. It will lead the High Jewellery sale scheduled for 12 May.

This follows the strong performance of another Cullinan blue at Sotheby’s Geneva in May 2025, when the 10.3-carat “Mediterranean Blue” achieved $21.5 million, or approximately $2.09 million per carat highlighting sustained demand for rare blue diamonds at the top end of the market.

The current 6.03-carat stone carries an estimate of CHF 7.2 million to CHF 9.6 million (USD $8.0 million to $10.7 million), equating to roughly $1.33 million to $1.77 million per carat, reinforcing the continued strength of the coloured diamond segment.

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Masked Raiders Steal Dozens of Rolex Watches in Texas

In a stark reminder of rising security risks within the luxury sector, a group of masked thieves carried out a targeted raid on a jewellery store in Austin, Texas, stealing at least 50 pre-owned Rolex watches.

The incident occurred on 21 April at Marc Robinson Jewelers, where eight suspects used hammers to smash display cases after deploying pepper spray against an employee and a bystander. The group reportedly fled with a significant volume of high-value inventory before staff could intervene.

The store, known for holding one of the largest inventories of pre-owned Rolex watches in the region, was specifically targeted suggesting prior surveillance and planning. Authorities later recovered a stolen getaway vehicle but have yet to make any arrests.

The underscores the increasing need for enhanced security protocols across the jewellery and watch retail sector, particularly for businesses dealing in high-value branded goods.

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DCLA Insight:
From evolving consumer preferences toward rough diamonds to continued strength in rare coloured stones and rising security concerns, the global jewellery market is undergoing dynamic change. For industry professionals, adaptability, education, and vigilance remain key to navigating this rapidly shifting landscape.

Sotheby’s Hong Kong Jewellery Sale Achieves HKD 58.3 Million ($7.4 Million)

 

A striking black diamond ring emerged as one of the standout performers at Sotheby’s recent Fine Jewellery auction in Hong Kong, highlighting continued collector appetite for rare and unconventional diamond pieces.

The ring, centred on an impressive approximately 22-carat rose-cut black diamond, realised HKD 960,000 (USD $122,499), dramatically exceeding its pre-sale high estimate of HKD 160,000. The result six times expectations—underscores the growing market recognition of black diamonds as distinctive statement stones within high jewellery.

The piece is designed with a classic yet bold aesthetic, featuring the central black diamond surrounded by an elegant halo of pear-shaped, oval and round rose-cut white diamonds, enhancing contrast and visual impact.

Overall, the auction achieved a total of HKD 58.3 million (USD $7.4 million), with strong participation across signed and high-quality gemstone jewellery. Notable maisons represented included Graff, Cartier, and Chanel, reinforcing the importance of branded provenance in today’s auction market.

Other Notable Results

• Colombian Emerald and Diamond Earrings
  A pair of earrings set with pear-shaped Colombian emeralds weighing 11.52 and 13.74 carats sold for HKD 960,000, in line with expectations. The emeralds were framed and suspended by approximately 10 carats of pear-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds.
• Brazilian Alexandrite Ring
  A rare 4.37-carat oval alexandrite achieved HKD 832,000. The gemstone displays a pronounced colour-change effect, shifting from greenish-blue in daylight to purple under incandescent light—an attribute highly prized among collectors.
• Pear-Shaped Diamond Earrings
  Featuring two E-colour, VVS2-clarity diamonds weighing 3.10 and 3.16 carats, this pair realised HKD 832,000, comfortably surpassing its estimate and reflecting continued demand for high-quality white diamonds.
• Cartier Fancy Yellow Diamond Ear Clips
  A signed pair by Cartier, set with two cushion-shaped fancy-yellow diamonds (5.01ct VS2 and 5.03ct SI1), alongside additional yellow-tinted stones, also sold for HKD 832,000 well above estimate.

Market Insight

The sale reinforces several key trends observed by DCLA:

• Increasing demand for distinctive and unconventional diamonds, including black and coloured stones
• Continued strength in signed jewellery, particularly from established maisons
• Strong performance of high-quality coloured gemstones, especially emeralds and alexandrite
• Ongoing resilience of the auction market in Asia, particularly Hong Kong as a global jewellery hub

As collectors continue to diversify beyond traditional white diamonds, pieces with character, rarity, and design distinction are achieving significant premiums well above conservative estimates.

Source: DCLA