Rough Diamond Jewellery Gains Momentum in the UK and USA

 

A clear shift is underway across the jewellery markets in the United Kingdom and the United States, where demand for rough, uncut diamond jewellery continues to accelerate. Against a backdrop of geopolitical tension and economic uncertainty, consumers are increasingly drawn to pieces that represent authenticity, individuality, and a deeper connection to natural origins.

Unlike traditional polished stones, rough diamonds present an organic, untouched aesthetic each one inherently unique. This raw beauty is resonating strongly with a new generation of buyers who prioritise personal expression over conventional notions of perfection. In this segment, irregularity is not a flaw, but a defining feature of value.

The momentum behind this trend has been amplified by the expansion of the De Beers Talisman collection. By pairing rough and polished diamonds in innovative designs, the collection has successfully repositioned rough stones within high jewellery bridging traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design language and attracting both collectors and design-led consumers.

From a broader market perspective, the rise of rough diamond jewellery reflects a growing preference for tangible, meaningful assets. In uncertain times, buyers are seeking rarity, permanence, and intrinsic value qualities naturally embodied by diamonds in their most authentic form.

For the trade, this evolution presents both opportunity and responsibility. Educating consumers on the characteristics, formation, and grading complexities of rough diamonds remains critical, alongside maintaining transparency and provenance areas where DCLA continues to play a pivotal role.

As the market evolves, rough diamonds are no longer viewed as unfinished they are increasingly recognised as a deliberate, sophisticated choice.

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6.03ct Fancy Vivid Blue Diamond Could Fetch Up to $12 Million

A rare 6.03-carat fancy vivid blue diamond is set to headline an upcoming auction at Sotheby’s Geneva, with expectations reaching as high as CHF 9.5 million (approximately USD $12.2 million).

The cushion-modified brilliant, classified as a Type IIb diamond, originates from South Africa’s renowned Cullinan mine and is set in a platinum ring. It will lead the High Jewellery sale scheduled for 12 May.

This follows the strong performance of another Cullinan blue at Sotheby’s Geneva in May 2025, when the 10.3-carat “Mediterranean Blue” achieved $21.5 million, or approximately $2.09 million per carat highlighting sustained demand for rare blue diamonds at the top end of the market.

The current 6.03-carat stone carries an estimate of CHF 7.2 million to CHF 9.6 million (USD $8.0 million to $10.7 million), equating to roughly $1.33 million to $1.77 million per carat, reinforcing the continued strength of the coloured diamond segment.

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Masked Raiders Steal Dozens of Rolex Watches in Texas

In a stark reminder of rising security risks within the luxury sector, a group of masked thieves carried out a targeted raid on a jewellery store in Austin, Texas, stealing at least 50 pre-owned Rolex watches.

The incident occurred on 21 April at Marc Robinson Jewelers, where eight suspects used hammers to smash display cases after deploying pepper spray against an employee and a bystander. The group reportedly fled with a significant volume of high-value inventory before staff could intervene.

The store, known for holding one of the largest inventories of pre-owned Rolex watches in the region, was specifically targeted suggesting prior surveillance and planning. Authorities later recovered a stolen getaway vehicle but have yet to make any arrests.

The underscores the increasing need for enhanced security protocols across the jewellery and watch retail sector, particularly for businesses dealing in high-value branded goods.

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DCLA Insight:
From evolving consumer preferences toward rough diamonds to continued strength in rare coloured stones and rising security concerns, the global jewellery market is undergoing dynamic change. For industry professionals, adaptability, education, and vigilance remain key to navigating this rapidly shifting landscape.

Geneva Set to Dazzle as Rare Blue Diamonds Headline May Auctions

 

The global diamond market will turn its attention to Sotheby’s and Christie’s this May, as two exceptional blue diamonds each representing the pinnacle of rarity and natural beauty prepare to go under the hammer in Geneva.

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Sotheby’s to Offer 6.03-Carat Fancy Vivid Blue Diamond

A 6.03-carat cushion-shaped fancy vivid blue diamond is expected to achieve up to CHF 9.5 million (approximately USD $12.2 million) at Sotheby’s High Jewellery auction on May 12 in Geneva.

The diamond is graded internally flawless and classified as a Type IIb stone a category that includes some of the rarest and most chemically pure diamonds in the world. Type IIb diamonds are distinguished by the presence of boron, which imparts their highly sought-after blue colour and exceptional optical properties.

This important piece will headline a broader offering of high jewellery from renowned maisons including Van Cleef & Arpels, Bucherer, and Cartier, alongside a curated selection of coloured diamonds and rare gemstones.

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“The Ocean Dream” Returns to Christie’s

Also commanding global attention is the reappearance of the legendary “Ocean Dream,” a 5.50-carat fancy vivid blue-green diamond, set to headline Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction on May 13 at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues in Geneva.

Certified by the Gemological Institute of America, the Ocean Dream holds the distinction of being the largest known fancy vivid blue-green diamond in the world. Its unique hue reminiscent of tropical seawater places it among the rarest colour expressions ever documented in natural diamonds.

Unlike the Type IIb blue offered at Sotheby’s, the Ocean Dream is classified as a Type Ia diamond. While Type Ia stones account for approximately 95% of all natural diamonds, they are rarely associated with such intense and unusual colour saturation, making this specimen an extraordinary anomaly.

The diamond, cut into a distinctive triangular shape, originated from an 11.70-carat rough discovered in Central Africa during the 1990s. It is expected to achieve between CHF 7 million and CHF 10 million (USD $8.9 million to $12.7 million).

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A Stone of Museum-Level Importance

The Ocean Dream first gained international recognition during the 2003 “Splendor of Diamonds” exhibition at the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History, where it was showcased among eight of the rarest diamonds ever discovered.

Max Fawcett, Global Head of Jewellery at Christie’s, has described the stone as “an exceptional jewel of profound rarity and allure,” underscoring its importance not only within the auction market but also in the broader gemological landscape.

This upcoming sale marks the diamond’s second appearance at auction. It was previously sold by Christie’s in 2014 for CHF 7.7 million, achieving approximately $1.4 million per carat at the lower end of its estimate at the time.

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Market Significance

The simultaneous offering of two world-class blue diamonds each representing different diamond types and colour origins highlights continued strength at the top end of the coloured diamond market. For collectors and investors alike, these stones underscore the enduring appeal of rarity, provenance, and gemological significance.

As Geneva once again becomes the focal point of the high jewellery world, the results of these sales will provide further insight into pricing dynamics for the rarest natural diamonds, particularly as supply remains constrained and global demand for exceptional stones continues to grow.

Source: DCLA

World Diamond Day: The Most Valuable Diamonds Ever Sold at Auction

In recognition of World Diamond Day, we reflect on some of the most extraordinary diamonds ever offered at auction stones that not only achieved record-breaking prices but also represent the pinnacle of rarity, craftsmanship, and natural beauty.

Established by the Natural Diamond Council, World Diamond Day celebrates the enduring significance of natural diamonds, highlighting their provenance, emotional value, and the moments they commemorate. It is also an opportunity to examine the exceptional stones that continue to define the upper limits of the global diamond market.

Below is a selection of some of the most important diamonds ever sold at auction.

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The CTF Pink Star

The CTF Pink Star remains the most expensive diamond ever sold at auction. This 59.60 carat oval-shaped, fancy vivid pink diamond achieved US$71.2 million at Sotheby’s Hong Kong in 2017.

Internally flawless and cut from a 132.5 carat rough discovered in 1999, the stone required over two years of meticulous planning and craftsmanship to realise its final form. It was acquired by Chow Tai Fook, setting a benchmark for coloured diamonds globally.

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The Williamson Pink Star

Achieving US$57.7 million in 2022, this 11.15 carat cushion-cut fancy vivid pink diamond is among the finest ever graded.

Originating from a 32.32 carat rough from Tanzania’s Williamson mine, it was classified as internally flawless by the Gemological Institute of America, placing it among the rarest gemstones known.

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The Oppenheimer Blue

This 14.62 carat emerald-cut vivid blue diamond sold for US$57.5 million at Christie’s Geneva in 2016.

Named after its former owner, Sir Philip Oppenheimer, the diamond drew intense global attention and was ultimately secured after a competitive international bidding process.

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The Blue Moon of Josephine

Cut from a 29.62 carat rough discovered in South Africa in 2014, this 12.03 carat fancy vivid blue diamond achieved US$48.4 million at Sotheby’s Hong Kong in 2015.

Purchased by Hong Kong collector Joseph Lau, it was renamed in honour of his daughter, further cementing its place in modern diamond history.

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The Graff Pink

This 24.78 carat fancy intense pink diamond sold for over US$46 million at Sotheby’s Geneva in 2010.

Acquired by Laurence Graff, the stone had not appeared on the market for more than 60 years prior to its sale, adding to its provenance and desirability.

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The Princie Diamond

Selling for US$39.3 million at Christie’s New York in 2013, the Princie Diamond carries remarkable historical significance.

Originating from India’s famed Golconda mines and once owned by the Nizams of Hyderabad, the diamond reflects the rich heritage of some of the world’s most celebrated diamond sources.

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The The Orange

Weighing 14.82 carats, this pear-shaped fancy vivid orange diamond remains the largest of its kind ever recorded.

It achieved US$35.5 million at Christie’s Geneva in 2013, significantly exceeding pre-sale expectations and reinforcing the rarity of orange diamonds.

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The Magnificent Oval Diamond

One of the largest D-colour flawless diamonds ever to appear at auction, this 118.28 carat oval-cut stone sold for US$30.8 million at Sotheby’s Hong Kong in 2013.

Its exceptional colour and clarity grading underscore the importance of strict laboratory standards in determining value—an area where independent certification remains critical.

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A Reflection on Rarity and Value

These diamonds are more than record-breaking assets—they are geological miracles shaped over billions of years and refined through exceptional human skill. Their value lies not only in carat weight or colour grading, but in rarity, provenance, and the precision of their cutting and certification.

As World Diamond Day highlights, natural diamonds continue to occupy a unique position in both the luxury and investment landscape. For laboratories such as the Diamond Certification Laboratory of Australia, the role of accurate and independent grading remains fundamental in preserving confidence and transparency within the global diamond market.

Source: DCLA

LUCARA RECOVERS EXCEPTIONAL 36.92 CARAT BLUE DIAMOND FROM KAROWE

 

Lucara Diamond Corp. has announced the recovery of a remarkable 36.92 carat blue diamond from its wholly owned Karowe Diamond Mine in Botswana further reinforcing Karowe’s reputation as one of the world’s most prolific sources of rare and high-value diamonds.

The newly recovered stone is described as a high-quality Type IIb blue diamond, a category renowned for its extreme rarity, boron content, and exceptional optical properties. The diamond was recovered using X-ray Transmission (XRT) technology from stockpiled ore, highlighting the continued value embedded within Karowe’s surface material.

In addition to this notable discovery, Lucara reports that five diamonds exceeding 100 carats have been recovered year-to-date from the processing of stockpiles. These results underscore the consistent recovery profile of large, high-quality stones from the Karowe resource.

William Lamb, President and CEO of Lucara, commented that the recovery of this exceptional blue diamond further demonstrates the unique nature of the Karowe asset. He emphasised that such finds validate the strategic importance of stockpile processing as a meaningful contributor to ongoing production.

Since commencing operations in 2012, Karowe has established itself as a leading producer of large, high-value Type IIa diamonds. The mine remains the cornerstone of Lucara’s operations and future growth strategy.

Looking ahead, Karowe is undergoing a significant transition from open-pit to underground mining through the development of the Karowe Underground Project (UGP). This expansion is designed to unlock access to the highest-value portions of the orebody. Underground development ore is expected to begin supplementing stockpile feed by 2027, with full-scale underground production targeted for the first half of 2028.

This latest recovery not only highlights the enduring value of Karowe’s resource but also reinforces Botswana’s standing as a premier origin for some of the world’s most extraordinary diamonds.

Source: DCLA

Petra Recovers Huge 41.82-ct Blue Diamond

 

Petra Diamonds today announced the recovery of a huge 41.82-carat Type IIb blue diamond at its Cullinan Mine, in South Africa.

The UK-based miner described the stone as being of “seemingly exceptional quality in terms of both its colour and clarity”.

The iconic Cullinan mine is known for recovering high-value blue stones.

Last April it sold a 14.76ct blue stone, of “exceptional color and clarity” for $8.2m.

In July 2021 it sold a 39.34-carat blue diamond for $40.18m. The Letlapa Tala collection of five blue diamonds sold in November 2020 for $40.36m.

And a 29.60-carat rough that was cut into the Blue Moon sold for $25.6m in February 2014. It was subsequently auctioned in 2015 for $48.5m to Hong Kong billionaire Joseph Lau, who renamed it the Blue Moon of Josephine.

Petra says it is in the process of analyzing the stone and deciding on a preferred method of the sale.

In October Petra Diamonds announced details of a $25m rights issue to keep the company afloat as it battles falling prices and production, together with rising debt and cash flow difficulties.

Revenue for FY2025 was $206m, down 33 per cent year-on-year from $309m and net debt increased to $264m.

Source: DCLA

Rare 10-Carat Blue Diamond Could Fetch $20 Million at Sotheby’s Geneva Auction

A remarkable 10-carat blue diamond, dubbed the “Mediterranean Blue Diamond,” is expected to achieve up to $20 million when it goes under the hammer at Sotheby’s in Geneva on 13 May. The diamond, which boasts the highly coveted “fancy vivid blue” colour grade, represents one of the most prized and rare categories in the world of coloured diamonds.

Discovered in 2023 at South Africa’s famed Cullinan mine, the Mediterranean Blue was originally a rough diamond weighing an impressive 31.94 carats. What followed was an extraordinary journey — a full year of study, including precise analysis to maximise both beauty and value, and six months of planning and expert cutting to reveal the gem in its final cushion-shaped form.

Sotheby’s, which is overseeing the auction, describes the diamond as a standout in its class. Jessica Wyndham, head of high jewellery at Sotheby’s Geneva, remarked, “The market for coloured diamonds continues to go from strength to strength.” Indeed, blue diamonds of this size and calibre are vanishingly rare, and collectors around the world are likely to compete fiercely for the chance to own such an exceptional gem.

Fancy vivid blue is the highest grading for coloured diamonds, denoting a saturation and purity of colour that few stones ever achieve. The Mediterranean Blue, with its intense oceanic hue and exceptional clarity, is a testament to nature’s rarity and human craftsmanship.

Over the years, similar diamonds have fetched extraordinary prices. In 2016, the “Oppenheimer Blue,” a 14.62-carat fancy vivid blue diamond, sold for a staggering $68.7 million at Christie’s in Geneva, setting a world record for any fancy vivid blue diamond sold at auction. That same year, another exceptional blue stone — a 24.18-carat intense blue diamond also mined from the Cullinan site — sold for $25 million, reinforcing the global appetite for ultra-rare coloured diamonds.

The Cullinan mine, known for producing some of the world’s most famous diamonds — including parts of the Cullinan I and II, which are part of the British Crown Jewels — has once again proven its status as a source of legendary stones.

With demand for coloured diamonds surging, particularly among high-net-worth collectors and investors seeking portable, tangible assets, the upcoming sale of the Mediterranean Blue Diamond is expected to draw worldwide attention.

Its appearance at auction not only marks a rare opportunity to acquire a gem of unmatched beauty and provenance, but also reflects the continuing strength and allure of the coloured diamond market — where rarity and story combine to create lasting value.

Source: DCLA

The Golconda Blue: The Largest Fancy Vivid Blue Diamond Ever Seen at Auction

Christie’s is preparing to showcase something truly extraordinary — The Golconda Blue, a 23.24 carat Fancy Vivid Blue diamond, set to headline the Magnificent Jewels auction in Geneva on 14 May. Held at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues, this remarkable stone carries an estimate of between $35 million and $50 million.

Mounted in a ring designed by the legendary JAR, The Golconda Blue is not only the largest Fancy Vivid Blue diamond ever offered at auction — it’s also one of the rarest and most historically significant diamonds in existence.

Its journey through history is as dazzling as the stone itself. Originally owned by Yeshwant Rao Holkar, the Maharaja of Indore — a prominent patron of art and fine jewellery in the 1920s and 1930s — the diamond was first set into a bracelet by Chaumet in 1923. A decade later, Mauboussin transformed it into a necklace worn by the Maharani, immortalised in a striking portrait by Bernard Boutet de Monvel.

In 1947, the diamond was acquired by none other than Harry Winston, who later sold it as a brooch to the Maharaja of Baroda. After years of being held privately, The Golconda Blue is now returning to the public eye for the first time in decades.

Rahul Kadakia, Christie’s international head of jewellery, called it “a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity,” noting the auction house’s long history with legendary Golconda diamonds such as the Archduke Joseph, the Princie, and the Wittelsbach.

The term Golconda itself refers to the legendary diamond mines of Eastern India, famous for producing some of the world’s most luminous, transparent, and pure gems. Among them are historic stones like the Koh-i-Noor, the Hope Diamond, and the Darya-i-Nur — and now, The Golconda Blue joins this rarefied list.

This sale is not just about a diamond. It’s about history, heritage, and the timeless allure of one of nature’s most breathtaking creations.

Source: DCLA

5.72-ct Blue Diamond Sells for $8.8m

A 5.72 carat fancy intense blue diamond beat its high estimate and sold for $8.8m yesterday (10 December) at Christie’s New York.

The cushion brilliant cut VVS1 stone, set in a platinum ring with round diamonds, was the highlight of the Magnificent Jewels auction.

The price realized was $1,539,336 per carat. The pre-sale estimate was $6m to $8m.

The second highest price was for a pair of Harry Winston spinel and diamond earrings. They sold for $2,228,000—four times their high estimate of $600,000.

The sale raised a total of $49.2m, with 97 per cent of the 179 lots finding buyers. 

Rahul Kadakia, Christie’s international head of jewelry, said: “Today’s sale in New York was a testament to the vibrant market for jewelry of the highest caliber with singular provenance.

“We were particularly pleased with the result of the top lot – a fantastic fancy intense blue diamond ring that sold for $8.8m.”

The Fancy Color Research Foundation gave the blue diamond a visual score of 8 out of 12 in its pre-sale analysis, noting its low color dispersion.

It said: “True Face-Up: Equivalent to that of a 9.15 carat which is ~59.9 per cent larger than the average

“Analysis: A Fancy Intense Blue Cushion brilliant-cut diamond,  polished as a classic colorless diamond, probably manufactured during the 1960s or 1970s. 

“The diamond’s inner-grade is very strong, and modifying its facet alignment could increase its saturation to vivid. No significant gray undertone is present in the color.”

Source: DCLA

Qatari Royal Family in Court over Idol’s Eye Diamond

A legal battle over the Idol’s Eye, a 70.21 carat very light blue, eye shaped Golconda diamond, began on Monday (11 November) at the High Court, London.

Two branches of Qatar’s royal family are in dispute over the value of the gem – which could be anywhere between $10m and $27m.

The disagreement is between Qipco, a private investment company run by art collector Sheikh Hamad bin Abdullah al-Thani – a cousin of Qatar’s ruler Sheikh Tamim bin Hamad Al Thani – and Elanus Holdings, a company linked to the family of former culture minister Sheikh Saud bin Mohammed Al Thani.

Elanus loaned the diamond to Qipco in 2014 for 20 years, with an option to buy but the two sides disagree over the value of the stone. It is reported to be worth at least $10m, but according to a Reuter’s report, Elanus’s diamond expert has valued it at $27m.

Qipco says Elanus offered to sell the gem in February 2020, but then pulled out. Elanus disputes this.

Qipco is asking the High Court to force Elanus to go through with the sale.

The Idol’s Eye has a long and complex history. It was recovered in 1600 in the Kollur Mine, part of the Golconda Sultanate in southern India, was initially owned by Prince Rahab of Persia, and was auctioned by Christie’s London in 1865.

It has changed hands many times and has, at various stages, been owned by Harry Winston and Laurence Graff.

Source: DCLA

Petra’s Prices Boosted $8.2m Blue

Petra Diamonds sold fewer carats but achieved higher prices earlier this month at its fifth tender of FY 2024, boosted by the sale of an $8.2m blue diamond.

The UK-based miner achieved an average $136 per carat on sales of 362,000 carats for $49m.

Like-for-like figures for its fourth tender, in February, were $112 per carat on sales of 429,000 carats for $48m.

Sales for the year to date are, however, lagging behind FY 2023, at $285m, down 10 per cent down on $316m.

The 14.76ct exceptional color and clarity blue diamond recovered from Cullinan, South Africa, sold for $8.2m, although it was not classified as an “exceptional stone” (over $15m).

Total revenue for Q3 FY 2024 was $66m, down 27 per cent on the previous quarter, due to the lower production and the timing of receipts from the fifth tender.

“Production for the quarter is consistent with the preceding quarter and in-line with expectations.,” said CEO Richard Duffy.

Production guidance for FY 2024 is 2.75m to 2.85m carats.

Earlier this month Petra announced the sale of its loss-making Koffiefontein mine, in South Africa, to Dubai-based Stargems for a nominal sum.

Source: DCLA

Blues Lead Fancy Colour Prices

Fancy blue diamonds out performed other major color categories in price terms during the first quarter, the Fancy Color Research Foundation said.

Prices for fancy blues jumped 5% year on year for the three months ending March 31, according to the FCRF, which released its quarterly Fancy Color Diamond Index on Monday.

By contrast, prices of fancy pink diamonds declined 1.7%, while the index for yellows slipped 0.6%, the organization said. The overall index for fancy color diamonds edged up 0.1%.

Vivid blues and vivid pinks weighing 2 carats showed the best performance in their respective color categories during the quarter.

The Fancy Color Diamond Index tracks prices of fancy yellow, pink and blue diamonds in Hong Kong, New York and Tel Aviv.

Source: DCLA

Blues Lead Fancy Colour Prices

Fancy blue diamonds out performed other major color categories in price terms during the first quarter, the Fancy Color Research Foundation said.

Prices for fancy blues jumped 5% year on year for the three months ending March 31, according to the FCRF, which released its quarterly Fancy Color Diamond Index on Monday.

By contrast, prices of fancy pink diamonds declined 1.7%, while the index for yellows slipped 0.6%, the organization said. The overall index for fancy color diamonds edged up 0.1%.

Vivid blues and vivid pinks weighing 2 carats showed the best performance in their respective color categories during the quarter.

The Fancy Color Diamond Index tracks prices of fancy yellow, pink and blue diamonds in Hong Kong, New York and Tel Aviv.

Source: DCLA

Graff Blue Diamond Ring Fetches $12.5 Million

A crossover ring with two fancy vivid blue diamonds designed by Graff Jewellers has smashed its pre-sale estimate.
The ring has sold at the Christie’s New York Magnificent Jewels auction fetching more than $12.5 million USD.

Source: DCLA

Graff Blue Diamond Ring Fetches $12.5 Million

A crossover ring with two fancy vivid blue diamonds designed by Graff Jewellers has smashed its pre-sale estimate.
The ring has sold at the Christie’s New York Magnificent Jewels auction fetching more than $12.5 million USD.

Source: DCLA

Graff Blue Diamond Ring To Lead Christie’s Auction

Fancy colour diamonds will lead Magnificent Jewels sale on Wednesday.

Topping the sale is a Fancy Vivid Blue Diamond  ring designed by Graff Jewellers. Estimated price is $6.5 million – $8.5 million USD.

The two Vivid blue Diamonds weighing approximately 3.36 and 2.71 carats with VVS2 and VS1 clarity grades are set in a crossover design, In a platinum setting.

Source: DCLA 

Graff Blue Diamond Ring To Lead Christie’s Auction

Fancy colour diamonds will lead Magnificent Jewels sale on Wednesday.

Topping the sale is a Fancy Vivid Blue Diamond  ring designed by Graff Jewellers. Estimated price is $6.5 million – $8.5 million USD.

The two Vivid blue Diamonds weighing approximately 3.36 and 2.71 carats with VVS2 and VS1 clarity grades are set in a crossover design, In a platinum setting.

Source: DCLA