A remarkable 32-carat fancy vivid orangy-pink diamond has achieved a new auction record at Sotheby’s inaugural Collectors’ Week in Abu Dhabi. The stone, known as the Desert Rose, sold for $8.8 million, exceeding its high estimate of $7 million.
The pear-shaped, 31.68-carat, VVS1-clarity diamond presented unmounted headlined the Precision & Brilliance: Prestigious Jewels & Watches from an Important Private Collection sale on 5 December. Sotheby’s confirmed it is now the most valuable orangy-pink diamond ever sold at auction.
Collectors’ Week featured five curated sales spanning luxury categories including automobiles, real estate, handbags, watches, and high jewellery, marking a major milestone for Sotheby’s presence in the UAE.
The remaining top jewellery lots included:
Tiffany & Co. Kashmir Sapphire Ring A 5.61-carat cushion-shaped Kashmir sapphire with round-diamond accents achieved $596,900, above its $550,000 high estimate.
Boucheron Colombian Emerald Ring Featuring a 7.88-carat emerald framed by 14 pear- and marquise-shaped diamonds, this piece sold for $508,000, slightly above expectations.
Cartier Colombian Emerald Ring Centred with a 4-carat step-cut emerald and flanked by pear-shaped diamonds, the ring reached $495,300, well beyond its $350,000 upper estimate.
Fancy Colour Diamond Ear Clips Set with 14 pear-shaped diamonds including D- to F-colour stones and fancy pink and fancy green gems the pair fetched $215,900, surpassing its $200,000 high estimate.
Other Top Jewellery Highlights
Patek Philippe Star Caliber 2000 Set A complete set of four double-dialled clock watches in yellow gold, white gold, pink gold and platinum realised $11.9 million, achieving expectations.
Rolex Daytona “Albino” (circa 1971) An exceptionally rare model sold for $952,500, narrowly missing its upper estimate.
The Glowing Rose, a 10.08-carat vivid pink diamond that was expected to sell for around $20m was pulled from Sotheby’s High Jewelry Sale in Geneva last week.
It was withdrawn prior to the sale on 12 November. A notice on the Sotheby’s website simply says: “This lot is no longer available.”
The cushion-modified brilliant VVS2 stone (pictured), set in a platinum band featuring baguette and brilliant cut white diamonds, would have been only the third vivid pink cushion-cut diamond over 10 carats to come to auction in the last 10 years.
It was cut from a 21-carat Type IIa rough stone recovered in 2023, from a mine in Angola and was due to appear at auction for the first time.
Two days earlier (10 November) another pink diamond pulled from another sale, The old-cut Golconda 6.95-carat fancy vivid purplish pink diamond was due to lead the sale was withdrawn by Phillips from its Geneva Jewels Auction: V event, in agreement with the consignor.
The Sotheby’s High Jewelry Sale generated around $37m, with 94 per cent of lots sold and 98 per cent of the sold lots exceeding their estimates.
Top lot was a 4.50-carat internally flawless oval mixed-cut fancy vivid blue diamond that achieved more than $5.9m.
The magnificent 42.68-carat Vanderbilt Sapphire, a gem steeped in the legacy of the Vanderbilt shipping and railroad dynasty, achieved an impressive $3.6 million at Phillips Geneva Jewels Auction: V more than double its high estimate of $1.5 million.
This sugarloaf-cut, unheated Kashmir sapphire, renowned for its velvety royal blue hue, was mounted in a 20th-century Tiffany & Co. brooch of elegant openwork scroll design, accented with white diamonds.
The sapphire was the undisputed highlight of the Geneva sale, held on 10 November, which totalled $17 million with 85% of the 114 lots sold.
While the highly anticipated 6.95-carat Golconda fancy vivid purplish pink diamond was withdrawn by mutual agreement between Phillips and the consignor, other notable results included a 10.08-carat light pink-brown diamond that achieved an auction record for its colour category, selling for $881,000 against an estimate of $650,000.
The event drew over 1,600 visitors to the preview and sale, with bidders from 44 countries, underscoring the strong global demand for exceptional natural gemstones and historic jewels.
Benoit Repellin, Phillips’ Worldwide Head of Jewellery, commented:
“The results of today’s sale attest to the enduring appeal of period jewels and the discerning eye of our international clients. To bring the jewels of the Vanderbilt family to the world’s stage was a moment of profound privilege.”
For collectors and connoisseurs, the Vanderbilt Sapphire’s result reaffirms the continued strength of the market for unheated Kashmir sapphires and heritage pieces with notable provenance a testament to their rarity, beauty, and timeless allure.
Each November, Geneva takes centre stage in the world of fine jewellery, and Sotheby’s 2025 High Jewellery and Royal & Noble Jewels sales reaffirm why the city remains its beating heart. This year’s auctions bring together a breathtaking display of natural diamonds, historical heirlooms, and masterful craftsmanship that celebrate centuries of artistry and provenance.
At the forefront of the Sotheby’s High Jewellery Sale is The Glowing Rose, an extraordinary 10.08-carat Fancy Vivid Pink diamond estimated at around USD 20 million. Its rare, “pure pink” hue—free from secondary tones—places it among the most valuable gemstones in existence. Comparable to celebrated stones such as the Williamson Pink Star and Pink Legacy, this exceptional diamond embodies the geological miracle of atomic distortion, which gives natural pink diamonds their ethereal glow. Stones of this size and purity are exceedingly rare, making The Glowing Rose the undeniable star of the season.
Colour remains the hallmark of this year’s Geneva sale. A pair of Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond earrings, weighing 38.66 and 38.88 carats, are expected to achieve between CHF 2,000,000 and CHF 3,800,000. Their radiant colour intensity and impressive carat weight represent the highest standards of fancy diamond grading. Equally captivating is a 4.50-carat Fancy Vivid Blue diamond, internally flawless and estimated at CHF 4,400,000 to CHF 5,800,000. The blue hue, caused by trace boron, adds to its rarity and appeal, offering collectors the coveted trifecta of exceptional colour, clarity, and size.
Among the coloured gemstones, a 7.69-carat “Royal Blue” Kashmir sapphire set in a ring-pendant combination by Van Cleef & Arpels is a standout. Revered for their velvety “sleepy” lustre, Kashmir sapphires are among the most desirable in the world, and this piece exemplifies the pinnacle of gemological beauty. Further artistry is showcased through a pair of sapphire, tsavorite garnet, and diamond earclips by JAR—vividly imaginative and estimated at CHF 300,000 to CHF 500,000—reflecting the contemporary genius of Joel Arthur Rosenthal.
The sale also includes signature creations by Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Graff, and De Grisogono. Highlights include a 10.04-carat marquise-shaped D-colour diamond ring by Graff (VVS2 clarity, estimated CHF 320,000–560,000) and a De Grisogono ruby and diamond bombé ring featuring two step-cut diamonds (estimated CHF 55,000–75,000).
In tribute to a century of Art Deco design, Sotheby’s presents an array of geometric masterpieces from Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, embodying the symmetry and elegance that shaped modern jewellery aesthetics. Two private collections will also headline the event: one dedicated exclusively to Van Cleef & Arpels, and another—Aria of Jewels: The Collection of Antje-Katrin Kühnemann—featuring exceptional Cartier and De Grisogono pieces from the late philanthropist’s private trove.
The Royal & Noble Jewels: A Journey Through History
Complementing the High Jewellery Sale, Sotheby’s Royal & Noble Jewels auction unveils some of the most historically significant diamonds and heirlooms ever offered. Among them is a diamond brooch once owned by Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte, lost during his flight after Waterloo and later recovered by the Prussian Royal family. After more than two centuries in private hands, it now re-emerges for the first time at auction.
Also featured is a light pink diamond ring with royal lineage, once belonging to Empress Catherine I of Russia and later to Princess Neslishah Sultan, estimated between CHF 240,000 and CHF 400,000. A natural pearl and diamond jewel formerly owned by Cunegonde of Saxony (cousin of Louis XVI) carries an estimate of CHF 340,000 to CHF 500,000, while a diamond tiara with a wild roses motif from the Duchess of Portland (1774–1844) is expected to fetch CHF 100,000 to CHF 170,000.
Adding to the grandeur is a Cartier emerald and diamond necklace featuring an 11.78-carat Colombian emerald, commissioned in 1932, exemplifying Art Deco refinement and royal provenance.
Celebrating Provenance, Craftsmanship, and Natural Rarity
From Napoleon’s lost brooch to The Glowing Rose, Sotheby’s Geneva continues to highlight how exceptional gems transcend beauty—they embody heritage, artistry, and history. These November 2025 auctions remind the world that in fine jewellery, rarity, provenance, and craftsmanship remain the ultimate symbols of enduring value.
About DCLA The Diamond Certification Laboratory of Australia (DCLA) is the official CIBJO-accredited laboratory for Australia, recognised for its expertise in diamond grading and certification. DCLA continues to support transparency and integrity within the global diamond trade, celebrating events such as Sotheby’s Geneva that showcase the brilliance and authenticity of natural diamonds.
Sotheby’s is set to showcase one of the world’s rarest diamonds during its upcoming series of luxury auctions and exhibitions in Abu Dhabi, held from 2 to 5 December at The St. Regis Saadiyat Island Resort. The events form part of Abu Dhabi Collectors’ Week, which will feature masterclasses, panel discussions, and curated exhibitions highlighting fine jewellery, timepieces, collector cars, luxury real estate, and other exceptional assets.
The highlight of the auction is “The Desert Rose”, a 31.86-carat fancy vivid orangy-pink diamond, the largest of its kind ever graded. This extraordinary pear-shaped gem—first unveiled in Sotheby’s “Beyond: The World’s Rarest Diamonds” exhibition earlier this year—makes its auction debut with an estimated value of USD $5–$7 million.
The timing of the event coincides with one of Abu Dhabi’s busiest weeks, which includes the Formula 1 Grand Prix, the Milken Institute Middle East and Africa Summit 2025, Abu Dhabi Finance Week, and Bitcoin MENA. Together, these prestigious gatherings are expected to attract a global audience of collectors, investors, and cultural leaders.
Following Sotheby’s successful inaugural sale in Saudi Arabia earlier this year, the Abu Dhabi auctions further underscore the Middle East’s growing influence in the global luxury and cultural landscape. Saadiyat Island, home to institutions such as the Louvre Abu Dhabi, the forthcoming Guggenheim Abu Dhabi, and the Zayed National Museum, continues to establish itself as a world-class destination for art and high-value collectibles.
The Desert Rose diamond’s debut marks a milestone in coloured diamond history—its rarity, hue, and size exemplify the exceptional standards that define the world’s most coveted gems.
Treasures that once belonged to Napoleon Bonaparte are to be offered for sale by Sotheby’s Geneva on 12 November.
Details of the auction were revealed on Friday (24 October), less than a week after the devastating raid on the Louvre, in which items from the French crown jewels, valued at over $100m, were stolen.
Highlight of the Royal & Noble Jewels Sale is Napoleon’s unique brooch featuring old mine and mazarin-cut diamonds that was pinned to his hat during the 1815 Battle of Waterloo.
At its center is a large oval diamond weighing 13.04 carats, surrounded by nearly 100 old mine-cut diamonds arranged in two concentric rows.
The brooch was seized by the victorious Prussian army as the defeated Napoleon fled.
It appears for the first time at auction with an estimate of CHF 120,000 to 200,000 (USD 150,000 to 250,000).
“In his haste to flee Waterloo, where his armies had been overwhelmed by the combined forces of the British and Prussian armies, Napoleon had to abandon some of his carriages when they got stuck in a muddy road a few miles away from the battlefield – including the carriage containing those precious belongings,” Sotheby’s said.
Three days later the brooch was presented to Prussian King Friedrich Wilhelm III as a battle trophy.
It remained within the House of Hohenzollern for centuries, and passed down to emperors of Germany. It has been part of a different private collection for the last few years.
A unique Patek Philippe watch sold for $4.3m at Sotheby’s New York – the highest price realized by the auction house for a timepiece this year.
But it was well below the $7.75m achieved by the same watch when it changed hands at Sotheby’s Hong Kong.
The pink gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, was made in 1957 and was sold by the Milan-based retailer Gobbi Milano.
It was one of just nine made and is the only one known to still exist.
A private collector paid $4.3m for the watch, which had a pre-sale estimate of $3m to $5m. It led the Important Watches: Take a Minute sale last Tuesday (10 June).
In 2007 the watch sold for CHF 2.7m ($2,.2m at historic exchange rate) at Christie’s Geneva.
Sotheby’s New York is set to host an extraordinary High Jewellery auction on 13 June, featuring 110 remarkable lots — many of them centred around colourless and fancy coloured diamonds. This exclusive sale not only showcases some of the most important stones on the market today but also brings to light jewellery with historic provenance, including pieces from the Vanderbilt and Wade families, and a private collection chronicling a decades-long romance.
The Crown Jewel: 35.01ct Graff Diamond Ring Leading the sale is a breathtaking 35.01-carat emerald-cut diamond ring from luxury jeweller Graff. This D-colour, VVS2 clarity diamond is described as “highly important,” and is expected to fetch between USD $2 million and $3 million (approximately AUD $3 million to $4.5 million). It’s one of 13 spectacular jewels from a private collection titled Joie de Vivre: Journey in Jewels — a tribute to a husband’s enduring love, with each piece gifted to his wife throughout a 60-year marriage.
Another standout from the same collection is a pair of emerald and diamond earclips by Graff, boasting four sugarloaf cabochon emeralds weighing a total of approximately 84 carats. These exceptional earrings carry a presale estimate of USD $800,000 – $1.5 million.
Additional highlights from this private collection include:
An aquamarine and diamond bracelet: USD $40,000 – $60,000
A jade and diamond pendant-brooch, circa 1910s: USD $25,000 – $35,000
Fancy Colours Steal the Spotlight The number two lot of the sale is a striking 5.02-carat fancy pink diamond ring with VS2 clarity, estimated at USD $1.5 million – $2.5 million. Following closely is a 2.02-carat fancy vivid blue diamond ring, cut in a modified rectangular mixed style, with an estimate of USD $1.4 million – $1.8 million.
Also drawing significant attention is a pair of flawless D-colour pear-shaped diamonds weighing 10.32 and 10.11 carats respectively. Both diamonds are rated “excellent” in polish and symmetry, with a combined estimate of USD $1.1 million – $1.5 million.
American Legacy: Vanderbilt and Wade Family Heirlooms Among the historic highlights is a ruby and diamond sautoir by Marcus & Co., dating back to circa 1915. The centrepiece is a 9.60-carat unheated Burmese ruby, surrounded by old European-cut diamonds and accented with calibre-cut rubies. This important jewel is estimated at USD $1 million – $2 million and once belonged to Emily Vanderbilt Wade, the great-granddaughter of Cornelius Vanderbilt and daughter of Rhode Island Governor William Henry Vanderbilt III.
Three other Vanderbilt Wade jewels will also go under the hammer:
Cartier Art Deco diamond bracelet: Estimated at USD $60,000 – $80,000
Rene Lalique Art Nouveau pendant: Crafted from gold, enamel, emerald and pearl, circa 1900, with an estimate of USD $20,000 – $30,000
Multistone tassel sautoir: Featuring rubies, emeralds, pearls, diamonds and enamel, and possibly designed by Paulding Farnham of Tiffany & Co., with an estimate of USD $40,000 – $60,000
A Rare Opportunity for Collectors and Connoisseurs This Sotheby’s auction is not only a chance to acquire some of the world’s most exquisite diamonds and gemstones but also to own a piece of history. With provenance linking to America’s most prominent families and jewellery houses such as Graff, Cartier, and Tiffany & Co., the pieces represent both artistic excellence and emotional legacy.
For collectors, investors, and jewellery lovers alike, 13 June will mark a significant date on the global jewellery calendar.
Al Capone’s Diamond-Encrusted Pocket Watch to Be Auctioned at Sotheby’s
A dazzling piece of underworld history is heading to auction: Al Capone’s custom diamond-studded pocket watch, crafted from platinum and set with 90 diamonds, will go under the hammer at Sotheby’s next month. The extraordinary Patek Philippe timepiece, dripping in gangster-era flair and opulence, is expected to fetch between USD $80,000 and $160,000.
Nearly a century before “bust-down” watches became a mainstay in hip-hop culture, Capone was already setting trends. Dissatisfied with the understated design of his factory-made Patek Philippe, the infamous Chicago mob boss commissioned a local jeweller to completely rework it. The result? A solid platinum case housing the original movement, with a striking caseback spelling out “AC” in 90 single-cut diamonds—a bold, custom feature unheard of at the time.
“This type of gem-setting would have been extremely rare during that period,” says Geoff Hess, Sotheby’s Global Head of Watches. “Capone wasn’t just ahead of his time as a criminal—he was ahead of his time in style.”
This is not the first time Capone’s lavish timepiece has appeared at auction. In 2021, it was sold alongside other personal items—including his diamond tie bar and favourite Colt .45 pistol—by his descendants through Witherells, a California-based auction house. Estimated at $25,000 to $50,000, the watch far exceeded expectations, fetching $229,900.
While the dial shows signs of age and the minute hand is missing, the watch remains a compelling piece of Americana. It’s less a horological grail than a conversation-starting symbol of 20th-century notoriety and excess. Today, collectors tend to frown upon aftermarket diamonds, especially in vintage watches—but this piece is a bold exception. Capone’s customised pocket watch stands as a testament to his legacy: extravagant, defiant, and unmistakably iconic.
Sotheby’s to Auction Exceptionally Rare 10.3-Carat Fancy Vivid Blue Diamond
Fancy vivid blue diamonds exceeding 10 carats are among the rarest gemstones in the world, and Sotheby’s is set to present one at its High Jewellery sale in Geneva on 13 May.
Known as “The Mediterranean Blue,” this extraordinary 10.3-carat fancy vivid blue diamond – the highest grading for a blue diamond – has been assessed by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) with a VS2 clarity rating. It is also classified as a Type IIb diamond, a category that accounts for less than 0.5% of all diamonds, according to the auction house.
This cushion-shaped modified brilliant diamond is expected to be a highlight of the auction, with an estimated value of around $20 million.
“Any vivid blue diamond is a significant discovery, but one as mesmerising as this, especially over 10 carats, is truly newsworthy,” said Quig Bruning, Sotheby’s Head of Jewellery, Americas & EMEA. “The Mediterranean Blue’s remarkable size, elegant cushion cut, and striking ocean-blue hue place it among the most important blue diamonds to appear on the market in recent years.”
Before the auction, The Mediterranean Blue will be unveiled on 8 April at the Bassam Freiha Art Foundation in Abu Dhabi, a remarkable dune-shaped architectural structure. This non-profit institution, founded by philanthropist and art collector HE Bassam Said Freiha, houses an extensive collection of Orientalist art. The foundation is located on Saadiyat Island, home to renowned cultural landmarks such as the Louvre Abu Dhabi and the upcoming Guggenheim Museum. This marks Sotheby’s first public exhibition in Abu Dhabi since 2009, with further details on the unveiling to be announced in the coming weeks.
A Diamond of Remarkable Origin Sotheby’s revealed that The Mediterranean Blue was cut from a 31.94-carat rough diamond, discovered in 2023 at the Cullinan mine in South Africa. The transformation into a finished gem involved a year of meticulous study, followed by six months of precise planning and cutting.
Blue diamonds of substantial size and exceptional quality rank among the most valuable gemstones ever sold at auction. In fact, two of the three most expensive diamonds ever auctioned were blue diamonds. Most of these rare gems originate from the Cullinan mine, which has produced some of the world’s most famous diamonds, including the 530-carat Great Star of Africa, the largest faceted colourless diamond ever discovered.
Historic Blue Diamonds from the Cullinan Mine Other legendary blue diamonds sourced from the Cullinan mine include:
The Blue Moon of Josephine – A 12.03-carat, cushion-cut, internally flawless fancy vivid blue diamond, which sold for $48.5 million (over $4 million per carat) at Sotheby’s Geneva in 2015. The De Beers Blue – A 15.10-carat, step-cut fancy vivid blue diamond, which fetched $57.5 million at Sotheby’s Hong Kong in 2022. The De Beers Millennium Blue – A 10.10-carat, oval-shaped, internally flawless diamond, which sold for $31.8 million at Sotheby’s Hong Kong in April 2016. The Oppenheimer Blue – A 14.62-carat fancy vivid blue diamond that holds the world auction record for a blue diamond at $57.5 million, sold by Christie’s in Hong Kong in May 2016. According to the GIA, only 0.3% of all diamonds submitted for grading annually exhibit a predominantly blue colour, and of these, very few are classified as fancy vivid blue weighing over 10 carats.
“The attributes of The Mediterranean Blue, weighing 10.3 carats and sitting within the most sought-after fancy colour range, make it a truly exceptional diamond,” the GIA stated in Sotheby’s announcement.
This extraordinary gem is expected to draw significant attention from collectors and investors when it goes under the hammer in Geneva this May.
A stunning 10.33-carat Burmese ruby fetched an impressive $5.5 million at Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels auction in New York, following a heated six-minute bidding battle between two phone bidders and one participant in the saleroom. The final sale price more than doubled its high estimate.
This cushion-shaped, untreated ruby, set in a ring alongside two pear-shaped diamonds, emerged as the highlight of the 96 lot auction, which achieved a total of $30 million. Notably, 92% of the lots were sold, with 70% exceeding their high estimates.
The auction underscored a strong appetite for rare colored gemstones, exceptional white and colored diamonds, and signed pieces from renowned names like Graff, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Boivin.
A 16.73 carat very light pink diamond is expected to sell for CHF 1.1m to CHF 1.8m ($1.3m to $2m) in Sotheby’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels Sale.
Another highlight of the sale, which features many colored diamonds, is a 1.44 carat fancy red diamond (the rarest of all diamond colors) from Australia’s iconic Argyle mine.
They’ll be offered for sale next week (13 November) in a live auction of 88 lots, including pieces by Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany, Bulgari and JAR, spanning 250 years of jewelry history.
The pink diamond is claw-set in a ring, VVS1-clarity, natural color with a brilliant cut. The red diamond is also claw-set in a ring, with a cut-cornered rectangular mixed cut, together with an Argyle mine presentation case.
“The sale is a celebration of exceptional craftsmanship, with signed jewels from the most esteemed makers of the 20th century,” says Sotheby’s. The sale also offers a number of coloured diamonds of outstanding quality and size, within the rarest of colors.”
A fancy-pink diamond pendant is set to headline an upcoming jewelry auction at Sotheby’s in Paris, where it is expected to fetch up to EUR 550,000 ($612,797).
The cushion-cut, 4.03-carat diamond piece will feature at the October 10 Fine Jewels sale, according to the Sotheby’s website. The auction will also offer jewels from Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Giovanni Ferraris.
Additionally, the event will showcase more than 80 pieces from the collection of British singer Dame Shirley Bassey, including diamond jewelry Elton John gifted her.
Here are the rest of top 10 jewels that will be auctioned:
This Cartier Tutti Frutti bracelet designed as a band of articulated branches —embellished with carved emeralds, rubies and emerald beads drill-set with single-cut diamonds — carries a top estimate of EUR 450,000 ($501,395). A necklace from the Shirley Bassey collection composed of a row of graduated brilliant-cut diamonds, with the main ones weighing 5.50, 5.36, and 4.61 carats, could sell for up to EUR 280,000 ($311,798). Sotheby’s will offer this gold and diamond Cartier set comprising a necklace, two bracelets, a pair of ear clips, and a ring, each paved with brilliant-cut diamonds, for a high price of EUR 260,000 ($289,687). A David Morris ring bearing a rectangular step-cut, 7.15-carat diamond of F color and internally flawless clarity, flanked by tapered baguette diamonds, is expected to bring in EUR 140,000 to EUR 250,000 ($155,990 to $278,554). This sapphire and diamond bracelet by Van Cleef & Arpels forms a stylized buckle set with a row of oval sapphires framed by brilliant-cut diamonds. It has a presale range of EUR 140,000 to EUR 240,000 ($155,990 to $267,410). This ring with a pear-shaped, fancy-brownish-yellow diamond weighing 20.03 carats could achieve as much as EUR 220,000 ($245,116). A necklace composed of openwork and oval motifs, each set with an oval sapphire within a double surrounding of brilliant-cut diamonds, has an upper price of EUR 180,000 ($200,540).A 21.17-carat, fancy-light-brown-yellow, SI2-clarity diamond ring with marquise-shaped diamond shoulders is anticipated to realize up to EUR 170,000 ($189,415). This claw-set ring with a rectangular step-cut, 5.06-carat diamond flanked by triangular diamonds carries a high estimate of EUR 150,000 ($155,990).
Live jewelry auctions in New York are easily keeping pace with multi-million-dollar watch auctions, and they remain the best venue for large diamonds, gemstones and signed pieces. Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels sale in June totaled $30,033,900, and Christie’s hit the $44.4 million mark, for a combined haul of over $70 million between the two.
A 14.51 carat sugarloaf cabochon Kashmir sapphire ring that sold for $1.8 million at Sotheby’s
Fancy colored and large flawless diamonds, along with rare specimens of emerald, sapphire and ruby continue to rank in the top 10 lots at most auctions. In the Sotheby’s top 10, the seven highest-selling pieces sold for over $1 million, and the top two lots sold for over $3 million.
The auction was led by a $3.6 million piece of jewelry, a Van Cleef & Arpels necklace. The tassel-tie style long necklace was fully set with several cuts of perfectly matched diamonds in tapered sizes. It was made in 1929, and would be difficult to make or find anywhere today. The second-highest lot was a 53-carat internally flawless diamond, another rare find, especially given than diamond mining is not the prolific activity it once was. It sold for $3,480,000.
For final proof that rarity is the driving value factor at jewelry auctions, the next lots were Kashmir sapphires, the prized velvety blue gems that haven’t been mined in a century—including a 10.31-carat Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring that sold for $1,980,000, and a 14.51-carat sugarloaf cabochon sapphire ring that sold for $1.8 million. Natural pearls, also very rare, are fetching top dollar at auction as well. Among the top 10 at the Sotheby’s sale was a natural pearl, cultured pearl and diamond necklace selling for $552,000, along with exquisite pieces from Graff and Harry Winston.
Christie’s sold the the Eden Rose, a 10.2-carat fancy intense pink diamond for $13.3 million.
This 2.28-carat vivid blue heart shaped diamond ring, surrounded by yellow and white diamonds
Phillips, which has for several years been the leading auction house when it comes to watches, also started holding live jewelry auctions this year. It got off to a good start in June with a New York sale that totaled $2.8 million. Leading the auction was a 9.81-carat emerald and diamond ring, which doubled its estimate at $165,000. A pair of diamond ear clips sold for $165,100, and a Cartier gold and diamond necklace designed as an undulating fringe sold for $146,050. The sale also included pieces from Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, and Bulgari and Oscar Heyman.
Leading the Phillips auction was a 9.81-carat emerald and diamond ring, which doubled its estimate.
An important and rare Van Cleef & Arpels diamond “Tie” necklace smashed its estimate and blew past other impressive gems and jewels to become the top lot at Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels auction, held Friday in New York.
The necklace, circa 1929, composed of graduated links set with variously cut diamonds with elongated tassels that partially rotate, sold for $3.6 million, triple its high estimate of $1.2 million, after a six-minute battle between seven bidders.
It was one of the few marquee items in the sale of 95 lots, a low number for a major New York auction. However, many of the items offered were highly collectible and wearable as shown by the overall results. For example, the sale achieved $30 million, near its $35 million high estimate, with 90% of lots sold and 62% of sold lots achieving prices above their high estimate. Sotheby’s said persons from 30 countries participated in the auction, placing more than 1,200 bids. In addition, seven out of the 10 most valuable jewels in the sale achieved more than $1 million. Art Deco jewels, Kashmir sapphires and white diamonds all performed well.
Quig Bruning, Sotheby’s Head of Jewels for Americas & EMEA, credits Sotheby’s new lower buying premium, set at 20%, for the strong overall results.
“We’re encouraged to see that two-thirds of jewels have sold above their high estimates since our lower buyer’s premium came into effect on May 20, confirming that a fairer fee structure is the definition of client-first, and not only encourages more buyers to participate at auction, but also reiterates that Sotheby’s is open to all.”
A 53.04 carat D colour, internally flawless diamond is expected to fetch up to $5m when it is sold a Sotheby’s New York.
The Type IIa pear-shaped lose stone will lead the Magnificent Jewels sale on 7 June.
A GIA report from last November describes the diamond as having very good polish, good symmetry and no fluorescence.
The diamond, which carries an estimate of $3m to $5m, will be among the first items sold under Sotheby’s new price structure (introduced on 20 May) under which buyers pay a reduced premium – down by 26m per cent on their purchases.
Another highlight of the auction, also with a $3m to $5m estimate, is a David Morris necklace of Kashmir sapphires 2.40 cts to 11.37 cts and graduated oval-shaped diamonds.
All 24 items on offer at the first gender-free live auction of bejeweled and embellished vintage timepieces at Sotheby’s found buyers, with the entire group selling in less than an hour.
The top item at the sale, called Rough Diamonds, was a Patek Philippe Ref. 3290 bracelet watch, ring and necklace set, created in 1962 by Gilbert Albert, decorated with enamel and pearls. The set sparked a more than six-minute battle between seven bidders, finally selling for CHF 393,700 ($435,727), over seven times its high estimate, Sotheby’s said Friday.
In total, the April 11 auction garnered CHF 1.2 million ($1.3 million), nearly twice its upper presale price.
“Rough Diamonds was born from the desire to bring to market a concept watch sale that truly resonated with collectors,” said Josh Pullan, global head of Sotheby’s luxury division. “The results of tonight’s sale, with all 24 lots selling to such a diverse and enthusiastic group of buyers, has validated that vision. The fact that the Gilbert Albert-designed Patek Philippe — the most idiosyncratic and extravagant lot in the sale — has become the most valuable lot sold tonight proves that there is a definite appetite amongst buyers for nonconformist and boldly eccentric timepieces, presented in a differentiated context.”
Other items that performed well included two Audemars Piguet watches. The first, a Cobra Royal Khanjar from 1985, brought in CHF 165,100 ($182,724), while a car-shaped white gold, diamond and emerald-set wristwatch from 1995 fetched CHF 107,950 ($119,474). Both pieces smashed their high estimates. Meanwhile, a Patek Philippe bangle watch from 1976 more than doubled its upper price tag, going for CHF 63,500 ($70,279).
