A remarkable 32-carat fancy vivid orangy-pink diamond has achieved a new auction record at Sotheby’s inaugural Collectors’ Week in Abu Dhabi. The stone, known as the Desert Rose, sold for $8.8 million, exceeding its high estimate of $7 million.
The pear-shaped, 31.68-carat, VVS1-clarity diamond presented unmounted headlined the Precision & Brilliance: Prestigious Jewels & Watches from an Important Private Collection sale on 5 December. Sotheby’s confirmed it is now the most valuable orangy-pink diamond ever sold at auction.
Collectors’ Week featured five curated sales spanning luxury categories including automobiles, real estate, handbags, watches, and high jewellery, marking a major milestone for Sotheby’s presence in the UAE.
The remaining top jewellery lots included:
Tiffany & Co. Kashmir Sapphire Ring A 5.61-carat cushion-shaped Kashmir sapphire with round-diamond accents achieved $596,900, above its $550,000 high estimate.
Boucheron Colombian Emerald Ring Featuring a 7.88-carat emerald framed by 14 pear- and marquise-shaped diamonds, this piece sold for $508,000, slightly above expectations.
Cartier Colombian Emerald Ring Centred with a 4-carat step-cut emerald and flanked by pear-shaped diamonds, the ring reached $495,300, well beyond its $350,000 upper estimate.
Fancy Colour Diamond Ear Clips Set with 14 pear-shaped diamonds including D- to F-colour stones and fancy pink and fancy green gems the pair fetched $215,900, surpassing its $200,000 high estimate.
Other Top Jewellery Highlights
Patek Philippe Star Caliber 2000 Set A complete set of four double-dialled clock watches in yellow gold, white gold, pink gold and platinum realised $11.9 million, achieving expectations.
Rolex Daytona “Albino” (circa 1971) An exceptionally rare model sold for $952,500, narrowly missing its upper estimate.
The Glowing Rose, a 10.08-carat vivid pink diamond that was expected to sell for around $20m was pulled from Sotheby’s High Jewelry Sale in Geneva last week.
It was withdrawn prior to the sale on 12 November. A notice on the Sotheby’s website simply says: “This lot is no longer available.”
The cushion-modified brilliant VVS2 stone (pictured), set in a platinum band featuring baguette and brilliant cut white diamonds, would have been only the third vivid pink cushion-cut diamond over 10 carats to come to auction in the last 10 years.
It was cut from a 21-carat Type IIa rough stone recovered in 2023, from a mine in Angola and was due to appear at auction for the first time.
Two days earlier (10 November) another pink diamond pulled from another sale, The old-cut Golconda 6.95-carat fancy vivid purplish pink diamond was due to lead the sale was withdrawn by Phillips from its Geneva Jewels Auction: V event, in agreement with the consignor.
The Sotheby’s High Jewelry Sale generated around $37m, with 94 per cent of lots sold and 98 per cent of the sold lots exceeding their estimates.
Top lot was a 4.50-carat internally flawless oval mixed-cut fancy vivid blue diamond that achieved more than $5.9m.
The magnificent 42.68-carat Vanderbilt Sapphire, a gem steeped in the legacy of the Vanderbilt shipping and railroad dynasty, achieved an impressive $3.6 million at Phillips Geneva Jewels Auction: V more than double its high estimate of $1.5 million.
This sugarloaf-cut, unheated Kashmir sapphire, renowned for its velvety royal blue hue, was mounted in a 20th-century Tiffany & Co. brooch of elegant openwork scroll design, accented with white diamonds.
The sapphire was the undisputed highlight of the Geneva sale, held on 10 November, which totalled $17 million with 85% of the 114 lots sold.
While the highly anticipated 6.95-carat Golconda fancy vivid purplish pink diamond was withdrawn by mutual agreement between Phillips and the consignor, other notable results included a 10.08-carat light pink-brown diamond that achieved an auction record for its colour category, selling for $881,000 against an estimate of $650,000.
The event drew over 1,600 visitors to the preview and sale, with bidders from 44 countries, underscoring the strong global demand for exceptional natural gemstones and historic jewels.
Benoit Repellin, Phillips’ Worldwide Head of Jewellery, commented:
“The results of today’s sale attest to the enduring appeal of period jewels and the discerning eye of our international clients. To bring the jewels of the Vanderbilt family to the world’s stage was a moment of profound privilege.”
For collectors and connoisseurs, the Vanderbilt Sapphire’s result reaffirms the continued strength of the market for unheated Kashmir sapphires and heritage pieces with notable provenance a testament to their rarity, beauty, and timeless allure.
Each November, Geneva takes centre stage in the world of fine jewellery, and Sotheby’s 2025 High Jewellery and Royal & Noble Jewels sales reaffirm why the city remains its beating heart. This year’s auctions bring together a breathtaking display of natural diamonds, historical heirlooms, and masterful craftsmanship that celebrate centuries of artistry and provenance.
At the forefront of the Sotheby’s High Jewellery Sale is The Glowing Rose, an extraordinary 10.08-carat Fancy Vivid Pink diamond estimated at around USD 20 million. Its rare, “pure pink” hue—free from secondary tones—places it among the most valuable gemstones in existence. Comparable to celebrated stones such as the Williamson Pink Star and Pink Legacy, this exceptional diamond embodies the geological miracle of atomic distortion, which gives natural pink diamonds their ethereal glow. Stones of this size and purity are exceedingly rare, making The Glowing Rose the undeniable star of the season.
Colour remains the hallmark of this year’s Geneva sale. A pair of Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond earrings, weighing 38.66 and 38.88 carats, are expected to achieve between CHF 2,000,000 and CHF 3,800,000. Their radiant colour intensity and impressive carat weight represent the highest standards of fancy diamond grading. Equally captivating is a 4.50-carat Fancy Vivid Blue diamond, internally flawless and estimated at CHF 4,400,000 to CHF 5,800,000. The blue hue, caused by trace boron, adds to its rarity and appeal, offering collectors the coveted trifecta of exceptional colour, clarity, and size.
Among the coloured gemstones, a 7.69-carat “Royal Blue” Kashmir sapphire set in a ring-pendant combination by Van Cleef & Arpels is a standout. Revered for their velvety “sleepy” lustre, Kashmir sapphires are among the most desirable in the world, and this piece exemplifies the pinnacle of gemological beauty. Further artistry is showcased through a pair of sapphire, tsavorite garnet, and diamond earclips by JAR—vividly imaginative and estimated at CHF 300,000 to CHF 500,000—reflecting the contemporary genius of Joel Arthur Rosenthal.
The sale also includes signature creations by Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Graff, and De Grisogono. Highlights include a 10.04-carat marquise-shaped D-colour diamond ring by Graff (VVS2 clarity, estimated CHF 320,000–560,000) and a De Grisogono ruby and diamond bombé ring featuring two step-cut diamonds (estimated CHF 55,000–75,000).
In tribute to a century of Art Deco design, Sotheby’s presents an array of geometric masterpieces from Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, embodying the symmetry and elegance that shaped modern jewellery aesthetics. Two private collections will also headline the event: one dedicated exclusively to Van Cleef & Arpels, and another—Aria of Jewels: The Collection of Antje-Katrin Kühnemann—featuring exceptional Cartier and De Grisogono pieces from the late philanthropist’s private trove.
The Royal & Noble Jewels: A Journey Through History
Complementing the High Jewellery Sale, Sotheby’s Royal & Noble Jewels auction unveils some of the most historically significant diamonds and heirlooms ever offered. Among them is a diamond brooch once owned by Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte, lost during his flight after Waterloo and later recovered by the Prussian Royal family. After more than two centuries in private hands, it now re-emerges for the first time at auction.
Also featured is a light pink diamond ring with royal lineage, once belonging to Empress Catherine I of Russia and later to Princess Neslishah Sultan, estimated between CHF 240,000 and CHF 400,000. A natural pearl and diamond jewel formerly owned by Cunegonde of Saxony (cousin of Louis XVI) carries an estimate of CHF 340,000 to CHF 500,000, while a diamond tiara with a wild roses motif from the Duchess of Portland (1774–1844) is expected to fetch CHF 100,000 to CHF 170,000.
Adding to the grandeur is a Cartier emerald and diamond necklace featuring an 11.78-carat Colombian emerald, commissioned in 1932, exemplifying Art Deco refinement and royal provenance.
Celebrating Provenance, Craftsmanship, and Natural Rarity
From Napoleon’s lost brooch to The Glowing Rose, Sotheby’s Geneva continues to highlight how exceptional gems transcend beauty—they embody heritage, artistry, and history. These November 2025 auctions remind the world that in fine jewellery, rarity, provenance, and craftsmanship remain the ultimate symbols of enduring value.
About DCLA The Diamond Certification Laboratory of Australia (DCLA) is the official CIBJO-accredited laboratory for Australia, recognised for its expertise in diamond grading and certification. DCLA continues to support transparency and integrity within the global diamond trade, celebrating events such as Sotheby’s Geneva that showcase the brilliance and authenticity of natural diamonds.
Treasures that once belonged to Napoleon Bonaparte are to be offered for sale by Sotheby’s Geneva on 12 November.
Details of the auction were revealed on Friday (24 October), less than a week after the devastating raid on the Louvre, in which items from the French crown jewels, valued at over $100m, were stolen.
Highlight of the Royal & Noble Jewels Sale is Napoleon’s unique brooch featuring old mine and mazarin-cut diamonds that was pinned to his hat during the 1815 Battle of Waterloo.
At its center is a large oval diamond weighing 13.04 carats, surrounded by nearly 100 old mine-cut diamonds arranged in two concentric rows.
The brooch was seized by the victorious Prussian army as the defeated Napoleon fled.
It appears for the first time at auction with an estimate of CHF 120,000 to 200,000 (USD 150,000 to 250,000).
“In his haste to flee Waterloo, where his armies had been overwhelmed by the combined forces of the British and Prussian armies, Napoleon had to abandon some of his carriages when they got stuck in a muddy road a few miles away from the battlefield – including the carriage containing those precious belongings,” Sotheby’s said.
Three days later the brooch was presented to Prussian King Friedrich Wilhelm III as a battle trophy.
It remained within the House of Hohenzollern for centuries, and passed down to emperors of Germany. It has been part of a different private collection for the last few years.
A unique Patek Philippe watch sold for $4.3m at Sotheby’s New York – the highest price realized by the auction house for a timepiece this year.
But it was well below the $7.75m achieved by the same watch when it changed hands at Sotheby’s Hong Kong.
The pink gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phases, was made in 1957 and was sold by the Milan-based retailer Gobbi Milano.
It was one of just nine made and is the only one known to still exist.
A private collector paid $4.3m for the watch, which had a pre-sale estimate of $3m to $5m. It led the Important Watches: Take a Minute sale last Tuesday (10 June).
In 2007 the watch sold for CHF 2.7m ($2,.2m at historic exchange rate) at Christie’s Geneva.
Sotheby’s New York is set to host an extraordinary High Jewellery auction on 13 June, featuring 110 remarkable lots — many of them centred around colourless and fancy coloured diamonds. This exclusive sale not only showcases some of the most important stones on the market today but also brings to light jewellery with historic provenance, including pieces from the Vanderbilt and Wade families, and a private collection chronicling a decades-long romance.
The Crown Jewel: 35.01ct Graff Diamond Ring Leading the sale is a breathtaking 35.01-carat emerald-cut diamond ring from luxury jeweller Graff. This D-colour, VVS2 clarity diamond is described as “highly important,” and is expected to fetch between USD $2 million and $3 million (approximately AUD $3 million to $4.5 million). It’s one of 13 spectacular jewels from a private collection titled Joie de Vivre: Journey in Jewels — a tribute to a husband’s enduring love, with each piece gifted to his wife throughout a 60-year marriage.
Another standout from the same collection is a pair of emerald and diamond earclips by Graff, boasting four sugarloaf cabochon emeralds weighing a total of approximately 84 carats. These exceptional earrings carry a presale estimate of USD $800,000 – $1.5 million.
Additional highlights from this private collection include:
An aquamarine and diamond bracelet: USD $40,000 – $60,000
A jade and diamond pendant-brooch, circa 1910s: USD $25,000 – $35,000
Fancy Colours Steal the Spotlight The number two lot of the sale is a striking 5.02-carat fancy pink diamond ring with VS2 clarity, estimated at USD $1.5 million – $2.5 million. Following closely is a 2.02-carat fancy vivid blue diamond ring, cut in a modified rectangular mixed style, with an estimate of USD $1.4 million – $1.8 million.
Also drawing significant attention is a pair of flawless D-colour pear-shaped diamonds weighing 10.32 and 10.11 carats respectively. Both diamonds are rated “excellent” in polish and symmetry, with a combined estimate of USD $1.1 million – $1.5 million.
American Legacy: Vanderbilt and Wade Family Heirlooms Among the historic highlights is a ruby and diamond sautoir by Marcus & Co., dating back to circa 1915. The centrepiece is a 9.60-carat unheated Burmese ruby, surrounded by old European-cut diamonds and accented with calibre-cut rubies. This important jewel is estimated at USD $1 million – $2 million and once belonged to Emily Vanderbilt Wade, the great-granddaughter of Cornelius Vanderbilt and daughter of Rhode Island Governor William Henry Vanderbilt III.
Three other Vanderbilt Wade jewels will also go under the hammer:
Cartier Art Deco diamond bracelet: Estimated at USD $60,000 – $80,000
Rene Lalique Art Nouveau pendant: Crafted from gold, enamel, emerald and pearl, circa 1900, with an estimate of USD $20,000 – $30,000
Multistone tassel sautoir: Featuring rubies, emeralds, pearls, diamonds and enamel, and possibly designed by Paulding Farnham of Tiffany & Co., with an estimate of USD $40,000 – $60,000
A Rare Opportunity for Collectors and Connoisseurs This Sotheby’s auction is not only a chance to acquire some of the world’s most exquisite diamonds and gemstones but also to own a piece of history. With provenance linking to America’s most prominent families and jewellery houses such as Graff, Cartier, and Tiffany & Co., the pieces represent both artistic excellence and emotional legacy.
For collectors, investors, and jewellery lovers alike, 13 June will mark a significant date on the global jewellery calendar.
Al Capone’s Diamond-Encrusted Pocket Watch to Be Auctioned at Sotheby’s
A dazzling piece of underworld history is heading to auction: Al Capone’s custom diamond-studded pocket watch, crafted from platinum and set with 90 diamonds, will go under the hammer at Sotheby’s next month. The extraordinary Patek Philippe timepiece, dripping in gangster-era flair and opulence, is expected to fetch between USD $80,000 and $160,000.
Nearly a century before “bust-down” watches became a mainstay in hip-hop culture, Capone was already setting trends. Dissatisfied with the understated design of his factory-made Patek Philippe, the infamous Chicago mob boss commissioned a local jeweller to completely rework it. The result? A solid platinum case housing the original movement, with a striking caseback spelling out “AC” in 90 single-cut diamonds—a bold, custom feature unheard of at the time.
“This type of gem-setting would have been extremely rare during that period,” says Geoff Hess, Sotheby’s Global Head of Watches. “Capone wasn’t just ahead of his time as a criminal—he was ahead of his time in style.”
This is not the first time Capone’s lavish timepiece has appeared at auction. In 2021, it was sold alongside other personal items—including his diamond tie bar and favourite Colt .45 pistol—by his descendants through Witherells, a California-based auction house. Estimated at $25,000 to $50,000, the watch far exceeded expectations, fetching $229,900.
While the dial shows signs of age and the minute hand is missing, the watch remains a compelling piece of Americana. It’s less a horological grail than a conversation-starting symbol of 20th-century notoriety and excess. Today, collectors tend to frown upon aftermarket diamonds, especially in vintage watches—but this piece is a bold exception. Capone’s customised pocket watch stands as a testament to his legacy: extravagant, defiant, and unmistakably iconic.
A rare 10.3-carat fancy vivid blue diamond, known as The Mediterranean Blue, has sold for an astonishing $21.5 million (17.9 million Swiss Francs) at Sotheby’s High Jewellery Auction in Geneva. This exceptional gemstone not only topped the auction but was also the headline piece of Sotheby’s week-long jewellery sales in Switzerland.
Intense Bidding War Over a Fancy Vivid Blue Diamond The auction, livestreamed globally, saw a fierce bidding battle that began at 9 million Swiss Francs. Within the first minute, the price surged to 13 million, eventually narrowing to two determined phone bidders. After two and a half minutes of competitive bidding, the final hammer price landed at 15 million Swiss Francs, with additional premiums pushing the total sale price to $21.5 million.
The winning bidder was represented by Frank Everett, Vice Chairman of Jewelry, Americas at Sotheby’s. The blue diamond had been estimated at $20 million prior to the auction.
From Cullinan Mine to Record Sale The Mediterranean Blue diamond was cut from a 31.94-carat rough blue diamond discovered in 2023 at the legendary Cullinan mine in South Africa, a source renowned for producing some of the world’s most important blue diamonds. Sotheby’s revealed that the rough stone underwent a full year of study before undergoing a meticulous six-month cutting and polishing process to achieve its final cushion modified brilliant-cut form.
Global Tour Boosted Demand Sotheby’s launched a worldwide exhibition tour of the blue diamond, beginning with its unveiling at their inaugural show in Abu Dhabi. It was then displayed across the Middle East, Asia, and the United States, generating significant interest from collectors and high-net-worth buyers. The gem was showcased alongside seven other ultra-rare diamonds and gemstones, with the total collection valued at over $100 million.
A Defining Stone of the Season Quig Bruning, Sotheby’s Head of Jewelry for the Americas & EMEA, described the diamond as a milestone for the season:
“It is undoubtedly the defining stone of the season and ranks among the top blue diamonds we have ever sold. The excitement it generated during its global tour reflects the increasing demand for rare, investment-grade diamonds and a growing flight to quality among collectors.”
