De Beers, long associated with the glamour of natural diamonds, is now grappling with a fading shine. The rise of lab-grown diamonds, which have gained popularity among millennial and Gen Z consumers in India and worldwide from the US to China poses a significant challenge.
Lab-grown diamonds offer several advantages: they are 60-75% more affordable than natural diamonds, and as mass production increases, prices continue to drop. Moreover, they share the same chemical composition as natural diamonds and are visually indistinguishable to the naked eye.
A high-profile Indian delegation led by Shri R. Arulanandan, Director, Department of Commerce, Government of India actively participated in the “Opportunities in India” event, hosted by the Consulate General of India in Cape Town and the Government of India. The event was held on the sidelines of the prestigious Mining Indaba 2025.
The delegation, which included Shri Rajat Wani, Regional Director – Surat, GJEPC, highlighted the potential of Special Notified Zones (SNZs) for diamonds in Mumbai and Surat, focusing on their role in simplifying trade processes. Stressing the need to reduce the number of intermediaries in the diamond value chain, they underscored the importance of facilitating more direct trade of rough diamonds between India and African mining nations.
Direct auctioning of diamonds in SNZs was presented as a mutually beneficial strategy. Such a framework would enable African mining countries to secure higher returns on their diamond exports while allowing Indian buyers greater access to competitively priced rough diamonds.
The discussions also explored the necessity of consignment exports, a move that could align with African nations’ policies, such as “temporary export” mechanisms. The Indian delegation expressed optimism about overcoming logistical and regulatory challenges, ensuring a streamlined process that benefits all stakeholders.
India has been emerging as a bright spot for the cut and polished diamonds amidst a slowdown in key markets such as the US and China, Amit Pratihari, managing director, De Beers India told Reuters on Wednesday.
India is the world’s largest centre for cutting and polishing diamonds, accounting for nine out of 10 diamonds polished globally, according to Indian government data.
However, the country’s cut and polished diamond exports fell this year because of weak demand from China and the US, forcing the industry to focus on the growing domestic market that surpassed China last year to become the world’s second-largest.
“China has completely slowed down in the luxury segment … We see India growing very strongly,” Pratihari said in an interview.
De Beers, a unit of Anglo American, is the world’s top diamond producer by value and India’s number one supplier of rough diamonds.
However, there were some early signs of recovery in the US and “big growth” in the Middle East, Pratihari said.
“In next couple of months, we expect recovery,” he said.
Weak exports demand for polished diamonds forced Indian processors to trim imports of rough diamonds by 22% to $7.9 billion during April to December, according to India’s Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC).
De Beers is adjusting prices of rough diamonds to support the midstream industry – companies that buy rough diamonds from miners and sell them after cutting and polishing to retailers – in the face of polished diamond prices falling more than those of rough diamonds, he said.
“Miners are controlling the supply so more rough does not come into the market that would put additional pressure on the polished prices. But the pressure on polished prices is in midstream as in retail there is no change,” he said.
India’s cut and polished diamond exports fell by 8.3% to $9.76 billion in April-December compared with the 2023 period, according to GJEPC.
A diamond manufacturer in India has created a lab grown replica of Donald Trump, as a symbol of the country’s strong ties with the US.
The 4.30-carat stone is the work of Surat-based Greenlab, the company that made the 7.5-ct F / VVS2 gem that was presented by India’s Prime Minister Narendra Modi to then-US First Lady Jill Biden in June 2023.
Greenlab, which produces 1.5m lab grown carats a year, says it took two months to grow the Trump diamond, and it plans to present it to the newly sworn-in president as a gift.
“This 4.7-carat masterpiece is a symbol of our appreciation for leadership and our deep connection with the US market,” said company director Smit Patel.
India’s gross exports of polished diamonds showed some signs of recovery during December, after a couple of months of volatility.
Foreign sales were $773m, down 10.4 per cent in dollar terms on the same month in 2023, according to the latest figures from the Gems and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC).
But that compares to a steep year-on-year drop of 40 per cent in November, with total sales of $660m.
That came after a 11.3 per cent increase in October, when sales hit just over $1.4bn.
Before that GJEPC recorded significant year-on-year drops for every month of the year, with foreign sales in September down 22.9 per cent to $1.29bn.
India’s diamond manufacturing has been badly hit by the ongoing slump in prices and demand, with an estimated 30,000 workers having been laid off in Surat over the last six months.
December’s fall in polished diamond exports was broadly in line with the whole gem and jewelry sector (down 10.3 per cent at just under $2bn).
India’s government is being urged to adopt the same rules on lab grown terminology as the US.
The GJEPC (Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council) says its 7,000-plus members are now required to adhere to the rules introduced by the US Federal Trade Commission (FTC) in 2016 and amended two years later. They have also been adopted by many other countries.
“Since India’s gem and jewellery trade has unanimously accepted the FTC’s new definition with respect to diamonds, we urge the Indian government and ministries to accept, adopt and adapt the same to existing consumer laws of our country.”
The FTC provides detailed guidance on exactly what forms of words can be used. It says: “If you sell laboratory-created diamonds, you should tell consumers that they are not mined diamonds by describing them as “laboratory-grown,” “laboratory-created,” “[manufacturer name]-created,” or some other word or phrase of like meaning so as to disclose, immediately preceding the word “diamond” and equally conspicuously, the nature of the product and the fact it is not a mined diamond.”
Smit Patel, convener of the GJEPC’s lab-grown diamond panel, said: “We have urged the government to align with the advancements and economic significance of lab-grown diamonds by adopting a forward-looking policy framework.”
The Indian government says its Central Consumer Protection Authority (CCPA) has organized a stakeholder consultation on consumer protection for the diamond sector, following representations from the GJEPC.
A 19.22 carat diamond, recovered from a shallow mine by a part-time digger in India’s Panna district, sold at auction for $111,000 (Rs 93,79,360).
It was one of 29 diamonds sold by the Panna Diamond Office, as part of a deal in which farmers and laborers rent small patches of land from the government. The other 28 stones raised just over $28,000 between them.
Many of the stones recovered have failed to find buyers at the three-monthly auctions over the last two years, but demand picked up at this latest event, with large crowds of bidders in attendance.
Panna is said to be home to 1.2m carats. Part-time miners pay $2.70 for the rights to dig a 25ft square patch there and diamond finds are quite common.
In February 2022 a part-time prospector dug up a 26.11-carat diamond which later sold for at auction for $193,000.
Maruti Impex, described as one of the world’s biggest manufacturers of small natural diamonds, is halting operations, and has advised its 15,000 workers to seek employment elsewhere.
The company’s founder, Suresh Lakhani, aged 45, suffered a stroke three months ago and remains in a coma.
He’s been the driving force behind the business, which he launched in 1995 when he was just 16 years old. He is said to be the sole decision maker.
The future of Maruti Impex, which operates over 100 units, directly and indirectly, in Surat, Bhavnagar, Amreli, and Junagadh, is now uncertain.
Staff were informed of the closure by audio message, just as diamond units re-open after the Diwali break.
They received salaries up to the holiday, but have been told it’s not clear when operations could resume. The company made mention of “three or four months”.
Family members stepped in short term following Lakhani’s stroke, but have reportedly decided to pause operations because of weak market conditions.
Times of India quotes Dinesh Navadiya, chairman of the Indian Diamond Institute, as saying: “Without his (Lakhani’s) leadership and given the current challenging market conditions, the management is unable to continue operations.”
Lakhani describes himself on LinkedIn as a “self-made entrepreneur and philanthropist who has built a successful global business – “Maruti Impex” from scratch. Maruti Impex is one of the largest companies in the world in cut and polished diamonds.”
Hundreds of carats of diamonds unearthed by part-time diggers in India’s diamond-rich Panna district remain unsold after state-run auctions failed to attract buyers.
Farmers and laborers rent small patches of land from the government and regularly recover gems worth potentially life-changing sums.
But many of their finds have been unsold at recent auctions conducted by the Panna Diamond Office, as demand slumps globally and lab growns take ever larger shares of the market.
At the latest sale 64 diamonds, weighing 111.45 carats, were unsold, according to a Free Press report.
It said that in 2022-23, at least 139 diamonds, weighing 255.47 carats were unsold, and in 2021-22, there were unsold 68 diamonds, weighing 73.15 carats.
Panna is said to be home to 1.2m carats. Part-time miners pay $2.70 for the rights to dig a 25ft square patch there and diamond finds are quite common.
In May 2022 farmer Pratap Singh Yadav (pictured) recovered an 11.88-carat diamond and said he’d use proceeds from the sale of the stone to set up a business and pay for his children’s education.
In February of that year another part-time prospector dug up a 26.11-carat diamond which later sold for $193,000. And in February 2021 laborer Rampyare Vishwakarma unearthed a 14.09-ct diamond.
India’s exports of polished diamonds suffered yet another big fall in September, down 22.9 per cent, according to the latest figures from the GJEPC (Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council).
That’s a marginally better performance than August, when year-on-year exports were down by 23.8 per cent. Between April and September total foreign sales fell 20.6 per cent (all figures in US dollars).
Actual monthly sales tell a different story from year-on-year decreases. Total foreign sales for September were $1.29bn, compared to $1.04bn in August and $908m in July.
Across the whole gems and jewelry industry in India, gross exports were $2.54bn, down 15.9 per cent year-on-year (compared to 22.9 per cent for polished diamonds).
Exports of polished lab growns – still a tiny minority of all diamond sales – were down 16.5 per cent to $111m.
The Indian government is facing calls to adopt US guidelines to distinguish lab growns from natural diamonds.
The 10,000-member GJEPC (Gems and Jewellery Export Promotion Council) says there is widespread confusion in the way diamonds are marketed and advertised.
It says India should adopt the US Federal Trade Commission (FTC) guidelines, which say there must be a “clear and conspicuous” indicating that a diamond is man-made.
They also say the term “diamond” without qualification can only be used to refer to a natural, mined diamond.
And lab growns cannot be described as “real,” “genuine,” “natural,” or “precious” without additional qualifying language.
The GJEPC has written to India’s Department of Consumer Affairs calling for strict rules to differentiate between natural and lab grown.
“The absence of standardised guidelines on diamond terminology leads to ambiguity,” it says.
“And there are no mandatory disclosure requirements to indicate whether a diamond is lab-grown or natural to the consumer.”
The near-empty Surat Diamond Bourse (SDB) is hoping the arrival of around 40 lab grown traders will signal a change in its fortunes.
The vast new center, recognized by Guinness World Records as the largest office building in existence, was officially opened last December by India’s prime minister Narendra Modi .
It has a capacity of 4,500 offices, but remains virtually empty.
The bourse has, according to local media reports, now reached an agreement with the Lab Grown Diamond Association (LGDA) to relocate around 40 lab grown companies from elsewhere in Surat.
Mahesh Gadhvi, CEO at SDB, said recently that 250 offices were currently occupied (that’s less than 6 per cent of the total).
“Steadily we are progressing towards opening more offices and starting more businesses from SDB,” he told the business news channel CNBC.
India’s exports of polished diamonds fell by 23.8 per cent year-on-year in August, according to the latest figures from the GJEPC (Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council).
Total foreign sales were $1.04bn, compared to $1.36bn last August. Exports in July were $908m, down 22.7 per cent.
Polished diamond exports have fallen every month this year, down 20 per cent in January, 28 per cent in February, 27 per cent in March, 17 per cent in April, 15 per cent in May and 26 per cent in June. All figures are for US dollars.
Gross exports of all gems and jewelry fell by 18.8 per cent during August – a slower rate of decline than diamonds – to $2.01bn.
Rough imports for the April to August period were down 22.6 per cent to $4.98bn.
Russian exports of rough diamonds to India increased by well over a fifth, to 4.1m carats, during the first six months of the G7 sanctions.
Total sales were up by 22.23 per cent for January to June 2024, according to the Indian Ministry of Commerce and Industry. But revenue fell by 15.22 per cent, as prices keep declining, from $614m to $520m.
Russian exports for June alone were 347,620 carats, an increase of almost 32 per cent on the same month last year.
The G7 and EU nations imposed sanctions on all Russian diamonds of 1.0-cts and above, regardless of where they were cut and polished, from 1 January. The threshold was lowered to 0.50-cts and above from 1 September.
Rough diamonds imported from Russia to India can only be sold to markets beyond the G7 and EU.
India’s diamond industry has been calling on the government to allow direct payments to Russia so it can more easily buy sanctioned goods.
India’s exports of polished diamonds suffered another hefty drop in June, down 26 per cent year-on-year to $1.02bn.
Foreign sales in May were down by almost 15 per cent to $1.47bn, according to new figures from the GJEPC (Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council).
Polished diamond exports have fallen every month this year, down 20 per cent in January, 28 per cent in February, 27 per cent in March and 17 per cent in April.
Gross imports of rough diamonds for April to June dropped by 15 per cent by value to $3.39bn and 6 per cent by volume.
Overall exports of all gems and jewelry declined by 15 per cent in June to $1.9bn.
India’s diamond industry welcomed a raft of measures announced in today’s budget (23 July) which will encourage direct diamond sales from foreign mining companies and reduce tax on key raw materials.
Finance Minister Nirmala (pictured) said safe harbor rates would be introduced, providing fixed and favorable tax rates for rough purchases in the country’s SNZs (Special Notified Zones).
Safe harbor streamlines the taxation process and eliminates unexpected liabilities for foreign suppliers.
Sitharaman also announced significant tax reductions on gold and silver to 6 per cent (from 15 per cent and 10 per cent) and on platinum to 6.4 per cent (from 12.5 per cent) and the exemption of diamond sales from a 2 per cent equalization levy aimed at promoting sustainability.
“India is a world leader in the diamond cutting and polishing industry, which employs a large number of skilled workers,” Sitharaman said in her Budget speech.
“To further promote the development of this sector, we would provide for safe harbor rates for foreign mining companies selling raw diamonds in the country.”
“I want to applaud and congratulate the Central Government for their three-point game changing decisions for the gems and jewellery industry,” said Vipul Shah, chairman of GJEPC (Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council).
“The reduction of customs duty on gold and silver, exclusion of diamond sector from 2 per cent equalisation level and simplifying taxation rules in Special Notified Zones (SNZ) for rough diamonds will provide a leadership position to the Indian gems and jewellery industry.”
India’s exports of polished diamonds suffered a further drop in May, down by almost 15 per cent to $1.47bn.
But the year-on-year rate of decline shows some signs of slowing, according to new figures from the GJEPC (Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council).
It fell 20 per cent in January, 28 per cent in February, 27 per cent in March and 17 per cent in April.
Diamonds are faring significantly less well than India’s overall gems and jewelry sector, which saw revenue for April slip by 6 per cent to $2.48bn.
Manufacturers bought more diamonds year-on-year in April and May (up almost 2 per cent by volume) but the price slump means imports are down almost 10 per cent by value are down by almost 10 per cent to $2.39bn.
India will lead demand for natural diamonds in 2024, says David Kellie, CEO of Natural Diamond Council (NDC), as US buyers increasingly switch to lab grown.
“The Indian market remains the strongest growth market in the world because of its strong financial position and changing demographics,” he told The Economic Times, in India.
“Indian women are now financially stronger, and they are driving the demand. The key economic indicators in the US are not yet favourable for a demand recovery in diamond purchase.”
Kellie (pictured) predicts a polarization between the natural and lab grown markets, with a price difference currently at 80 per cent to 90 per cent.
Natural diamonds will become increasingly rare, he said, with no new mines in prospect, and with miners digging deeper, and spending more, to reach remaining deposits.
India has urged the Group of Seven (G7) countries to delay an incoming ban on Russian diamonds because the rules to trace the origins of gems remain unclear, two sources aware of the matter said.
India, home to 90% of the world’s diamond cutting and polishing industry, is critical to the implementation of the ban.
New Delhi has also sought more clarity in its talks with G7 leaders, said the sources, who did not wish to be identified because they are not authorised to talk to the media.
Earlier this month, G7 nations announced a direct ban on Russian diamonds starting Jan. 1, followed by phased-in restrictions on indirect imports of Russian gems from around March 1. A new system to trace the origin of the gems will be introduced in September.
Russia is the world’s biggest producer of rough diamonds by volume. New restrictions on the trade of Russian gems are part of the bloc’s broader measures designed to limit Moscow’s revenues that aid and fund its invasion of Ukraine.
“The timeline to start restrictions on indirect imports from Russia in three-four months is impractical, as the rules on how the origin for a gem will be traced are not clear,” one of the sources said.
India has also expressed its reservations over G7’s new “traceability-based verification and certification” system, which may require sharing of data about Indian businesses, the first source said.
Some data might be sensitive and businesses might not be comfortable with sharing such information, he said.
The federal trade ministry, which is involved in talks with G7 on proposed restrictions, did not immediately respond to a request for comment.
India mostly processes smaller Russian diamonds, and that’s why the country expects minimal trade disruption, a government official said earlier this month.
Still, the proposed ban would impact the diamond supply chain, industry officials say.
India’s diamond sector already faces weaker demand. The country’s polished diamond exports fell 29% to $10 billion during the first seven months of the current fiscal year that began in April.
It exported polished diamonds worth more than $22 billion last fiscal year that ended on March 31. The industry, based mainly in the western state of Gujarat, employs millions of people across small and medium firms.
