De Beers Adapts to India’s Growing Demand for Lab-Grown Diamonds

De Beers, long associated with the glamour of natural diamonds, is now grappling with a fading shine. The rise of lab-grown diamonds, which have gained popularity among millennial and Gen Z consumers in India and worldwide from the US to China poses a significant challenge.

Lab-grown diamonds offer several advantages: they are 60-75% more affordable than natural diamonds, and as mass production increases, prices continue to drop. Moreover, they share the same chemical composition as natural diamonds and are visually indistinguishable to the naked eye.

Source: DCLA

Anglo American to review De Beers value amid weak diamond demand

Anglo American expects its De Beers diamond business to record an impairment amid declining diamond sales.

The London-listed miner announced Thursday that it will review De Beers’ value as it looks to exit the business, citing persistently weak diamond demand. Last year, Anglo reduced De Beers’ book value by $1.6 billion to $7.6 billion.

De Beers rough diamond production decreased by 26% to 5.8 million carats in 2024, compared to the previous year. The 2025 production guidance has been revised to 20–23 million carats, down from the previous estimate of 30–33 million carats. Anglo anticipates a marginal loss for the diamond business in 2024.

The mining giant put the world’s largest diamond producer up for sale last year as part of its portfolio simplification following a tentative takeover bid from BHP (ASX: BHP).

Anglo chief executive officer Duncan Wanblad stated earlier this week that the company plans to exit De Beers by the end of the year.

In November, Anglo announced agreements to sell its steelmaking coal business for up to $4.9 billion, with the Peabody transaction expected to close by the third quarter of 2025.

Additionally, the company completed a second bookbuild offering of Anglo American Platinum shares.

2024 production
On Thursday, the company reported that all of its businesses met their full-year production guidance.

It produced 773 kt of copper in 2024, aligning with its 730-790 kt guidance range, with the Quellaveco mine in Peru achieving its strongest quarter of the year in Q4.

“Our forward production guidance is unchanged in copper with growth in 2026 driven by higher grades in Chile, with this production level then maintained in 2027,” said Wanblad.

“We continue to set up the copper business for growth in subsequent years with the resumption of the smaller plant at Los Bronces and through debottlenecking at Collahuasi,” he said.

Anglo’s Minas-Rio iron ore operation in Brazil set a record, producing 25 million tonnes for the year, contributing to the company’s total iron ore production of 60.8 million tonnes in 2024.

“The key focus for the market has been on copper and production came ahead of expectations, with a strong result from Los Bronces, and guidance for FY25 remains unchanged,” RBC Capital Markets analysts commented in a note.

“However, not much good news beyond that with weak realised pricing in both iron ore and copper.”

Anglo American shares rose more than 5% in London trading following the results. The company has a market cap of £32.9 billion ($40.9 billion).

Source: DCLA

De Beers seals sales and mining contract with Botswana

De Beers, the world’s leading diamond producer by value, has concluded negotiations with the Botswana government on a new sales agreement and the extension of mining licenses for their joint venture, Debswana, until 2054.

The finalized agreement, the Anglo American unit said on Monday, follows discussions aimed at setting a new framework for the sale of rough diamond production from Debswana, a 50:50 partnership between De Beers and Botswana. The deal also secures the renewal of Debswana’s mining licenses, which were previously set to expire in 2029.

“Until the execution of these new agreements, the terms of the existing agreements will continue to remain in effect,” the diamond producer said.

Currently, 75% of Debswana’s diamond output is sold to De Beers. In 2023, the two parties reached a provisional 10-year agreement under which Botswana’s share of production was set to gradually increase to 50%.

The accord also established that Botswana’s state-owned diamond trading company was expected to receive 30% of Debswana’s production.

The government would also secure 10 billion pula ($712 million) in development funding as part of the deal. However, the deal stalled under the leadership of former President Mokgweetsi Masisi.

In January, newly elected President Duma Boko announced that his administration had reached an agreement with De Beers. Botswana, the world’s largest producer of rough diamonds by value, depends on the industry for the majority of its national revenue.

This new agreement comes at a pivotal time for De Beers as parent company Anglo American plans to spin off the diamond business through either a sale or an initial public offering. Analysts have noted that current depressed diamond prices may complicate efforts to finalize such a transaction.

Botswana remains a cornerstone of De Beers’ operations, accounting for 70% of its annual rough diamond supply. The government also holds a 15% stake in De Beers, underscoring the importance of the long-standing partnership between the two parties.

Source: DCLA

De Beers sees India as a bright spot, notes early recovery signs in US

India has been emerging as a bright spot for the cut and polished diamonds amidst a slowdown in key markets such as the US and China, Amit Pratihari, managing director, De Beers India told Reuters on Wednesday.

India is the world’s largest centre for cutting and polishing diamonds, accounting for nine out of 10 diamonds polished globally, according to Indian government data.

However, the country’s cut and polished diamond exports fell this year because of weak demand from China and the US, forcing the industry to focus on the growing domestic market that surpassed China last year to become the world’s second-largest.

“China has completely slowed down in the luxury segment … We see India growing very strongly,” Pratihari said in an interview.

De Beers, a unit of Anglo American, is the world’s top diamond producer by value and India’s number one supplier of rough diamonds.

However, there were some early signs of recovery in the US and “big growth” in the Middle East, Pratihari said.

“In next couple of months, we expect recovery,” he said.

Weak exports demand for polished diamonds forced Indian processors to trim imports of rough diamonds by 22% to $7.9 billion during April to December, according to India’s Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC).

De Beers is adjusting prices of rough diamonds to support the midstream industry – companies that buy rough diamonds from miners and sell them after cutting and polishing to retailers – in the face of polished diamond prices falling more than those of rough diamonds, he said.

“Miners are controlling the supply so more rough does not come into the market that would put additional pressure on the polished prices. But the pressure on polished prices is in midstream as in retail there is no change,” he said.

India’s cut and polished diamond exports fell by 8.3% to $9.76 billion in April-December compared with the 2023 period, according to GJEPC.

Source: DCLA

De Beers sitting on largest diamond inventory since 2008, FT reports

De Beers has reportedly built up its largest stockpile of diamonds since the 2008 financial crisis, with an inventory valued now at roughly $2 billion, according the Financial Times.

“It’s been a bad year for rough diamond sales,” De Beers chief executive Al Cook told the FT, though he did not provide additional details on its inventory.

The diamond giant has faced multiple headwinds in recent years. A slumping Chinese economy, in particular, has been a major drag on demand. Cheaper lab-grown diamonds are also adding pressure.

In a briefing to Bloomberg last year, Cook said his company has been building its stock on the assumption that diamond prices will recover, and that it will be able to sell that supply.

At the end of 2024, that hasn’t materialized. For the first half of this year, De Beers’ sales were down about 20% compared to the same time a year ago.

Still, Cook remains upbeat about a turnaround. “As we go independent, we have the freedom to focus on marketing as hard as we focused on mining,” he told the FT.

“This feels to me like the right time to be driving marketing and getting behind our brands and retail, even as we cut the capital and the spend on the mining side.”

However, a new report from McKinsey gave a less optimistic outlook for diamond miners, suggesting that lab-grown alternatives could one day take over the market.

Earlier this year, De Beers’ parent company Anglo American announced plans to spin off the diamond business either through a sale or an initial public offering.

Source: DCLA

De Beers to Cut Sightholder Numbers

De Beers says it will further reduce the number of sightholders, in a move designed to build partnerships that “create value”.

The emphasis will be on quality rather than quantity, CEO Al Cook told the Facets 2024 conference in Antwerp yesterday (26 November).

De Beers wrote to its 69 current sightholders last month advising them that a new supply agreement, as of January 2026, would be determined by an objective selection and allocation process. It declined to comment at the time.

“There will be some partnerships around the polished side, some partnerships around the rough side, some partnerships around dealing, some partnerships that go all the way into retail, but every partnership must create value, and that’s really important for all of our industry going forward,” Cook told the conference.

De Beers last reduced the number of sightholders in January 2021, when it introduced new contracts dividing buyers into three categories – dealers, manufacturers and integrated retailers.

The number of De Beers sightholders peaked at around 350 in the 1970s. It had halved by 2001 and was further reduced in subsequent changes to the client structure.

Source: DCLA

De Beers Finds High-Potential Kimberlite Sites in Angola

De Beers says it has identified eight new high-potential kimberlite sites in Angola, according to the Portuguese news agency Lusa.

It resumed explorations in the country in 2022, after a 10-year gap, and signed a memorandum of understanding (MoU) in February with Angola’s National Mineral Resource Agency, and its state-owned mining and trading companies, Endiama and Sodiam.

Aerial surveys by De Beers have so far identified eight sites in Lunda Sul, the northeastern province that is home to the huge Catoca mine. De Beers is now exploring six more areas, together with Endiama.

Angola has yet to explore 60 per cent of its diamond-rich territories. It opened its new Luele diamond mine last November, in a move that is forecast to increase annual production from 9.7m carats in 2023 to 14.6m carats this year.

Under the terms of the MoU there will be a review of kimberlite deposits to be explored and the transparency and traceability of diamond production will be promoted.

Source: IDEX

De Beers Group Managed Operations

The global supply of natural diamonds has already peaked, according to Moses Madondo, CEO of De Beers Group Managed Operations. Speaking at the Joburg Indaba, a major mining and resources conference in South Africa, he explained that production is on the decline, with several mine closures on the horizon and no significant new discoveries in sight.

Madondo highlighted that this limited supply could push diamond prices higher. “Since the turn of the century, we’ve only seen one major commercial discovery, the Luele mine in Angola, where we aim to start production by the 2030s. But on a broader scale, global diamond production is set to decline,” he said. This trend, while concerning from a supply perspective, offers the potential for price growth.

In the short term, Madondo expects production to dip, but he anticipates a recovery after 2025, driven by the Luele mine ramping up and South Africa’s Venetia mine shifting to underground operations. However, the looming closure of Canada’s Diavik mine in 2026 and the shutdown of several mines in Russia will further tighten supply.

Lightbox Launches New Campaigns – Despite Ending Production

Lightbox has just launched new campaigns for its lab grown diamonds – despite its announcement in June that it was halting production.

The wholly-owned De Beers-owned subsidiary says it has enough existing inventory to keep it going for the time being.

The production facility in Portland, Oregon, USA, is now being used to manufacture industrial diamonds by Element Six, also owned by De Beers.

“Lightbox has sufficient existing inventory from Element Six to meet the brand’s needs for the foreseeable future,” a company spokesperson told IDEX Online.

“At JCK (in June), we communicated that Element Six (our synthetic diamond industrial business which had also been producing LGDs for Lightbox) would suspend production of LGDs for jewellery to focus on high-tech industrial applications.

“However, Lightbox as a brand is continuing as it plays an important role in supporting the differentiation between LGDs and natural diamonds as LGD prices continue to decline and they are increasingly used in fashion jewellery.

“The latest Lightbox campaigns, referenced in the email below, reinforce this as they focus on foregrounding the message of Lightbox’s recently lowered per carat pricing and its fashion-forward approach to product design.

Lightbox says its new Fall campaigns – Shine Bright Spend Less and Modern Family – reflect the brand’s focus on fashion jewelry and accessible pricing.

Melissa Crivillaro, Lightbox’s chief marketing officer, said: “Our accessible prices, our fun and colorful innovations, and our fashion-focused lab-grown diamond jewelry collections underpin Lightbox’s broad appeal.

“As we lean into our next chapter with a revived identity, new creative campaigns and bold price messaging, we look to connect more deeply with our customers.”

Source: DCLA

Namibia bemoans popularity of lab-grown diamonds on global market

Namibia is one of Africa’s top five diamond exporters, right behind Angola, Botswana, and South Africa. In 2022, the country exported more than $940 million worth of diamonds.

The world’s demand for natural diamonds has bounced back from a slump during the COVID-19 pandemic, with Namibia’s largest marine dining company, Debmarine, reporting a sales increase of 83% in 2022 from the previous year.

Still, Debmarine CEO Willy Mertens is worried about competition from synthetic diamonds, sector of the business that could cost many Namibians their jobs.

Though trained jewelers can tell the difference between lab-grown and natural diamonds, there’s nothing obvious to distinguish lab-grown diamonds from natural ones.

The Modern Mining publication recently said that in 2022, lab-grown diamond jewelry surpassed 10% of the market of global jewelry sales for the first time. The publication said artificial diamond sales are forecast to continue growing at an annual double-digit percentage rate in coming years.

Namibia, where workers extracted 2.1 million carats in diamonds in 2022, is embarking on a campaign to tout natural diamonds as environmentally sound and holding greater value for the money.

“We’ve seen in the past couple of years that lab-grown diamonds, or synthetics as you call them, have sort of infiltrated the natural diamond market,” said Mertens. ” … people were first marketing them as real diamonds and we’ve done a lot of work around trying to differentiate them.”

One of the challenges of marketing Namibian natural diamonds is the environmental impact that diamonds have on the landscape.

Mertens said Debmarine invests a significant amount of its profits into environmental rehabilitation and restoration of landscapes and the seabed damaged by mining.

“The restoration of the seabed actually happens naturally as the waves move,” Mertens said. “So what we are doing is that we are monitoring that, and what we do is we mine out a specific area and we leave an area next to it vacant, and over time we monitor how the area where we have recovered diamonds looks like compared to the one that was not touched and we’ve seen that it takes about three to 10 years maximum for that to completely restore. By completely restoring, mean about 70% of the organisms have returned to that place. On the land, it is sand that we are moving and what we do now is that we are using that same sand to keep the sea walls in tact.”

Mertens recently paid a courtesy call on Namibian President Nangolo Mbumba, to introduce the De Beers global ambassador for natural diamonds, Hollywood actor Lupita Nyong’o, and talk to the president about challenges facing Namibia’s diamond industry.

De Beers Natural Diamonds Global Ambassador Lupita Nyong’o, left, Namibia President Nangolo Mbumba, center, and Debmarine CEO Willy Mertens in Windhoek, Namibia, July 19, 2024. (Vitalio Angula/VOA)
De Beers Natural Diamonds Global Ambassador Lupita Nyong’o, left, Namibia President Nangolo Mbumba, center, and Debmarine CEO Willy Mertens in Windhoek, Namibia, July 19, 2024. (Vitalio Angula/VOA)
President Mbumba lamented a proposal for the Kimberley process — the process meant to screen out so-called “conflict diamonds” from entering the international market — to begin certifying all diamonds in Antwerp, Belgium.

The Group of Seven largest economies said that is an effort to prevent Russian diamonds from being sold abroad.

Mbumba said the measure would hurt African diamond producers.

“Recently, the decision was made by the G7 countries to route all rough and polished diamonds destined for G7 countries via Belgium,” said Mbumba. “This decision poses a serious risk and threat to our economies, especially the economies of Angola, Botswana and Namibia by increasing the cost as well as curtailing freedom of trade for our countries’ products.”

Namibia’s president said he and his counterparts from Angola and Botswana have written a letter to the G7 to ask them to halt their plans.

Source: DCL

De Beers cut diamond production

In a significant move, the world’s largest diamond mining company by value has announced further production cuts, adding to its already implemented plan to curtail output by 10 percent. This decision led to a 15 percent year-on-year decline in second-quarter production, dropping to 6.4 million carats, as reported in an update on Thursday.

The potential sale or listing of De Beers was a crucial component of Anglo’s broader strategy to fend off a £39 billion takeover bid from industry giant BHP earlier this year. However, the ongoing slump in the diamond market poses a challenge to achieving this goal by the end of 2025.

“Trading conditions became more challenging in the second quarter as Chinese consumer demand remained subdued,” stated Duncan Wanblad, Anglo’s chief executive.

High inventories for diamond traders and manufacturers, coupled with expectations of a slow recovery, have prompted the company to consider further production cuts. This strategy aims to manage working capital and preserve cash amid the tough market conditions.

The prospect of deeper production cuts comes as the company disclosed the impact of other setbacks in its second-quarter production update, which had been anticipated by analysts.

Anglo has downgraded its full-year guidance for metallurgical coal from 15-17 million tonnes to 14-15.5 million tonnes following a fire at its Grosvenor mine in Australia, which has been out of action for months. Costs for the coal business are also expected to rise significantly this year, estimated at $130 to $140 per tonne, up from $115 per tonne.

The company is prioritising the sale of its metallurgical coal division due to strong buyer interest, with plans to divest De Beers, its platinum unit, and nickel operations to follow.

Additionally, an impairment on the Woodsmith fertiliser mine in North Yorkshire, UK, is expected in the upcoming half-year results, as spending on the project is drastically cut back as part of the turnaround plan.

Despite these challenges, shares in Anglo rose by 2 percent in early trading in London on Thursday, buoyed by production results for most commodities exceeding consensus analyst forecasts. The company achieved record second-quarter iron ore production in Brazil and is on track to meet its guidance for the copper unit.

Wanblad reaffirmed his commitment to streamlining the company to focus on just copper, iron ore, and fertiliser within 18 months. “We are working at pace to execute on the asset divestments, including steelmaking coal,” he said. “Work is progressing with the aim of substantively completing this transformation by the end of 2025.”

Source: DCLA

Ex-De Beers CEO Takes Charge at Gemfields

Bruce Cleaver, former CEO at De Beers Group, has been appointed chair and independent non-executive director of Gemfields, the UK-based emerald and ruby miner.

He said the company, founded in 2005, was bringing sophistication to a fragmented and informal colored gemstone industry, much as De Beers did more than a century ago for diamonds.

Cleaver, 59, (pictured) served as De Beers CEO from 2016 until his resignation in February 2023, during which time the company launched its Lightbox range of lab growns and extended its diamond mining agreement with the Botswana government for a further 10 years.

“The parallels with De Beers’ origins and how consistent and reliable supply can deliver remarkable industry growth and positive contributions to communities, are clear to all,” he said.

“The coloured gemstone market has long transcended the arrival of their lab-grown counterparts, with lab-grown rubies having been around for more than 120 years.”

Gemfields operates the Kagem emerald mine and Montepuez, the world’s largest ruby mine, in Mozambique. It holds a 75 per cent stake in both.

Construction of a new processing plant at Montepuez, which will triple its throughput capacity, is due to complete in the first half of 2025.”

Gemfields reported near-record revenues of $262m for FY2023.

Cleaver will replace Martin Tolcher as chair, and Lumkile Mondi who was lead independent non-executive director, effective 1 July.

Source: DCLA

De Beers plans return to marketing roots as split from Anglo American looms

De Beers, which created the global market for diamond engagement rings through its “A Diamond is Forever” campaign, is shifting back to its marketing roots as its parent company Anglo American (LSE: AAL) moves to sell it off.

Its new ‘Origins’ strategy is part of a wider pivot back towards natural diamonds, announced on May 31. The move makes sense because marketing has always set the diamond sector apart from other mineral industries and the industry risks losing its way if it becomes focused only on mining and turns away from the demand creation side, New York City-based diamond analyst Paul Zimnisky told The Northern Miner.

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“Marketing is what moves the needle,” he said. “You can throw money at the problem, you can create demand if the products are marketed properly. You have to look at it as a luxury product, not as a commodity.”

In announcing the divestiture of De Beers on May 14, Anglo said the move would give both companies “a new level of strategic flexibility to maximize value” for Anglo American and the government of Botswana, which each hold 85% and 15% stakes, respectively, in the diamond company. The Botswana government also indicated on June 10 that it wants to increase its interest in De Beers. High capital needs and declining diamond supply present further challenges in the diamond sector, analysts say.

Anglo’s announcement of its De Beers plans, as well as plans to sell off its South Africa-based Anglo American Platinum (JSE: AMS) and its steelmaking coal assets was triggered by BHP’s (ASX: BHP) unsuccessful, multi-billion-dollar acquisition bid in mid-May.

‘Growing desire’
De Beers is also suspending its Element Six lab-grown diamonds (LGD) subsidiary for jewelry to focus instead on synthetic diamond technology for industrial applications, it said in May. Production for the Lightbox LGD brand will stop in a few months, De Beers CEO Al Cook said in a June 13 interview with diamond news site Rapaport.

“The outlook for natural diamonds is compelling,” Cook said in a news release, adding that the company’s new approach will involve “growing desire for natural diamonds through the reinvigoration of category marketing, embracing new approaches that maximize reach and impact.”

Cook explained to Rapaport the need to tell better diamond stories is greater now that “there are more diamonds above the surface of the Earth than below the surface. Every year, diamond mines are closing.”

De Beers first entered the synthetic diamond jewelry market in 2018. In setting up a solid difference between mined and lab-grown diamonds, the company initially offered Lightbox jewelry for up to 80% less than its competitors’ prices.

Slowing sales, production
The stronger emphasis on marketing also comes as De Beers grapples with lower sales, with Cycle 4 rough diamond sales, at $380 million this year, down by 20% from last year’s Cycle 4 period of $479 million, the company reported on May 23. The Cycle 4 period approximately covers two weeks in May. Cook said the sales were due to the seasonally slower second quarter and less trading in India during the elections.

Production declined 8% to 31.9 million carats in 2023, from 34.6 million carats in 2022. First quarter output this year, at 6.8 million carats, was down 23% from the year-earlier figure of 8.9 million carats.

The wider industry is also facing the challenge of lower demand, especially in the United States and China. Amid the slow demand, De Beers cut the price of 0.75-carat stones by 4% to 6% at this year’s fourth trading session, according to a May 7 report from Rapaport. In the first sale of the year, the company cut prices by about 10%.

The issue of declining production could be expensive for De Beers to deal with, BMO Capital Markets diamonds analyst Raj Ray implied.

“From mining business point of view, not having a parent company like Anglo American backing De Beers could have some serious implications for diamond supply going forward,” he said.

Rough diamond supply has dropped to around 120 million carats from 150 million carats in 2017-2018, Ray said. It’s expected to drop even more in the next four to five years.

Amid the supply constraints, De Beers has invested $1 billion in expanding the life of its flagship Jwaneng mine in Botswana, and $2.3 billion to move underground the Venetia mine in South Africa.

“The next 12 to 24 months don’t look great for the rough diamond industry,” Ray said. “Anyone looking at De Beers will have to acknowledge (that). There’s huge capital investments that are needed over the next few years across mines to be able to maintain supply, forget about growing supply.”

But despite that hurdle, Ray and Zimnisky both see De Beers maintaining its 30% share of the global diamond market.

“They’ll continue to be the pre-eminent producer in the world,” Ray said. “Anyone who will buy (De Beers) will continue to fund its projects. I don’t see any significant drop in production from the De Beers portfolio.”

Going solo?
Once De Beers formally leaves Anglo as part of the company’s restructuring, which CEO Duncan Wanblad has said could take 18 to 24 months to complete, the diamond miner will face the prospect of being purchased or going alone.

Zimnisky said either option has its own difficulties.

“This is something Anglo has wanted for a while,” he said. “They wanted Anglo to become more of a pure play copper producer, or a green infrastructure buildout commodity producer hoping it would lead to a higher valuation for the company. That said, De Beers is a complicated business and not easy to sell. It has (the) Debswana joint venture, which is the crown jewel of the company.”

Ray agrees that few potential buyers would have interest in a company like De Beers whose business requires massive capital investments. An IPO is also unlikely, he said.

“There’s little interest in the diamond sector from an equity perspective. I don’t see how in a potential IPO there’s enough interest in a new diamond story,” he said. “This has to be a private sale or consortium that needs to come in and take a longer-term view of the diamond sector. There could be growth expected in the retail segment. That’s where I think anyone taking a look at De Beers would see the value.”

Both analysts also see the De Beers sale having minimal impact on the junior exploration sector for diamonds.

“In order to stimulate exploration across the industry you would have to see a notable diamond price recovery,” Zimnisky said. “Prices have been flat for almost a decade now.”

Source: DCLA

De Beers Unveils Five-Year Plan to Dominate Luxury Jewelry Market

De Beers has launched an ambitious five-year plan to become the premier jewelry brand worldwide, Diamond World reports.

CEO Al Cook aims to expand De Beers’ retail presence to compete with luxury giants like Tiffany and Cartier. Cook envisions transforming De Beers from a mining-focused company into a leading jewelry house, capitalizing on its rich legacy and market influence.

In an interview with the Financial Times, Cook said: “Diamonds’ future extends far beyond mining. I’m thrilled by the potential to execute our comprehensive strategy, aspiring to establish the world’s most prestigious jewelry maison—a vision that transcends traditional mining company boundaries.”

Central to this transformation is De Beers’ “Origins” strategy, which seeks to drive demand for mined diamonds by appealing to a new generation of consumers. This includes revitalizing marketing efforts and using innovative techniques to enhance the brand’s reach.

A key part of De Beers’ strategy is strengthening relationships with retail partners. Future plans include forming strategic alliances with major retailers, such as Signet Jewelers in the United States and Chow Tai Fook in China.

Source: DCLA

De Beers Will Quit Growing Diamonds for Jewelry

De Beers Group announced late last week that it will be suspending production of diamonds for jewelry at its Lightbox factory in Gresham, Oregon, pivoting instead to industrial diamonds for technology applications.

The company made the announcement Friday, in the midst of the Las Vegas jewelry trade shows.

The lab-grown pivot is part of a broader new strategy called “Origins,” which is designed to grow desire for natural diamonds while cutting costs.

In an interview with National Jeweler on Friday, De Beers CEO Al Cook elaborated on the decision, including on the future of Lightbox, the lab-grown diamond jewelry brand De Beers launched six years ago.

“Element Six used to produce diamonds because they were hard and they could be used industrially,” he said. “Now, with the price of synthetic diamonds coming down, it opens up this amazing set of technological activities. We’re in partnership with … a number of high-tech companies looking at how you use diamonds as components in the digital era.

“That bit for us is really exciting. And that’s where the future of synthetic diamonds lies for us.”

Despite the transition at the factory, Cook said Lightbox will continue as a brand, drawing upon existing stock for the immediate future.

“At the moment, we’ve got a lot of stones available to Lightbox. Production will continue for a few months to ensure that they’ve got a stock of beautiful lab-grown diamond stones they can sell.”

After Lightbox depletes its existing stock, “we’ll see where the brand goes and we’ll see what happens,” Cook said. “I think it’s too early to say.”

De Beers announced the launch of the Lightbox lab-grown diamond brand during the Las Vegas shows in 2018.

At first, De Beers was growing the diamonds for Lightbox at its Element Six facility in the United Kingdom.

In October 2020, it opened its $94 million Lightbox factory in Gresham, a Portland suburb.

In an attempt to control the direction of the lab-grown diamond market, De Beers set an $800/carat price structure for the line.

It also marketed Lightbox as jewelry for less-special special occasions, like Sweet 16s or graduations, not milestones like engagements or anniversaries, which, it posits, should be celebrated with natural diamonds.

Since the line’s launch six years ago, lab-grown diamond prices have dropped precipitously. Lightbox cut its prices by as much as 40 percent last month.

Cook said De Beers expects the trend to continue.

“For a lot of retailers out there, the incentive to sell natural [diamonds] and the incentive to sell lab-grown are reversed. There was a period of time, a year-plus ago, when retailers got more of a margin sometimes from selling lab-grown diamonds.

“They were cheap to manufacture, and they could be sold as near-equivalents to natural diamonds. We didn’t do that in De Beers Group. We made very clear through Lightbox that these were two entirely different propositions,” he said.

“Not everyone followed our approach. It is now very clear that for all the retailers I can speak to here at JCK, the margin you get by selling a natural diamond is far greater than the margin that you get by selling a lab-grown diamond. It’s also clear that the gap is going to grow rather than shrink. We expect the price of lab-grown diamonds to go down and down, to continue collapsing.”

As it transitions production at the Lightbox factory in Gresham, De Beers announced Friday that it also will be consolidating its Element Six chemical vapor deposition (CVD) diamond-growing facilities, going from three factories to the one factory in Oregon.

Source: DCLA

De Beers Is Eager To Go It Alone As Anglo American Divests Its Diamond Holdings

Anglo American, the $30.7 billion British multinational mining company, just announced plans to divest De Beers, its diamond mining and jewelry subsidiary. Ango American holds an 85% interest in De Beers and the government of Botswana owns the minority share.

“Anglo American is now exploring the full range of options to separate the business in order to set it up for success in unlocking full value, “ Anglo American CEO Duncan Wanblad said in a presentation earlier this week. “This will give both Anglo American and De Beers a new level of strategic flexibility to maximize value for both company’s shareholders.”

Anglo American is fighting a takeover bid from BHP Group, reported by Reuters to be the world’s largest mining company. In a move to shore up the company’s overall value, Anglo American will focus on its cooper, premium iron ore and crop nutrients businesses. Also slated to be divested is its Anglo American Platinum business, both of which will bring profound changes to the roughly $300 billion global jewelry industry.

Advising that Anglo American is considering a number of options for De Beers, be it a sale or IPO, and that it is still working through logistics with Botswana, Wanblad said, “It is a great business and it has fantastic assets and it has an exceptional brands. And therefore on that basis, it really deserves to be together on that set of criteria. How we do this is going to be a journey.”

De Beers CEO Al Cook is more than ready for the next phase of that journey. “For 124 of our 136 years of existence, Anglo American didn’t own the majority of De Beers,” he shared in an exclusive interview from Botswana. Anglo American acquired its majority stake in 2011.

Source: DCLA

Diamond Leader De Beers Will Be Sold If BHP Acquires Anglo American

BHP’s share-swap take over bid for arch-rival Anglo American to create a $185 billion mining giant will struggle to succeed, but if it does there is one arm of the target certain to be sold, the De Beers diamond business.

Despite its century-old reputation and claim to be the custodian of the diamond industry De Beers has become more trouble than it’s worth, under attack from two directions.
Demand for diamonds is being battered by global economic uncertainty while the problem of slowing sales is being supercharged by the increasing popularity of lab-grown gems which are indistinguishable from mined diamonds.

A third factor which could seal the fate of De Beers is that BHP quit the diamond industry a decade ago after struggling to mix mining, and its basic function of heavy-duty earthmoving, with the fine art of producing and marketing baubles for the rich and newlyweds.

It could get worse for the diamond mining business because prices for lab-grown gems are continuing to fall as a market split widens. High-value jewels remain of interest to a handful of wealthy people, while the lion’s share of the market shifts to lab-grown.

De Beers, which was a pioneer in the business of lab-grown gems via its Lightbox subsidiary, has consistently played down the threat to its traditional mined-diamond business but sustaining that argument became a little harder on Tuesday when it reported a big production fall in the March quarter.

The 23% drop in output caused Anglo American to lower its full year diamond production target from between 29 million and 32 million carats to between 26-and-29 million carats.

Management blamed the decline on the effect of a build-up of inventory of unsold stones with lab-grown gems cannibalising demand for mined stones.

Forbes Daily: Join over 1 million Forbes Daily subscribers and get our best stories, exclusive reporting and essential analysis of the day’s news in your inbox every weekday.It Could Get A Lot Worse
It could get a lot worse if a recent study of the diamond market by a specialist London jewelry firm is a guide.

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According to Hatton Jewels, which specialises in handling antique second-hand gems and does not sell lab-grown gems, some lab-grown diamonds are spectacular overpriced with retailers inflating their prices by as much as 1200%.

Rachel Smith, head valuer at Hatton said that in the current landscape, every business pays a similar wholesale price for lab-grown diamonds, regardless of disparities in their retail market value.

“The wholesale price of lab-grown diamonds can plummet to as low as 1% of their natural counterparts’ value,” Smith said in an emailed statement.

Smith cited three retail prices for a two-carat F VS1 (high quality) lab-grown diamond being offered for sale at $11,375, $2730 and $866. A gem of that size and quality costs between $500 and $759 to make.

“While some companies uphold integrity by selling lab-grown diamonds at fair market value, ensuring equitable competition, others exploit the situation for profit.

Diamond “growing” machines in India.
“Some retailers inflate prices by as much as 1200%, potentially driven by a desire to maintain the narrative that they are not different from natural diamonds, otherwise they may be considered too cheap and therefore undesirable, or to capitalize on trends at the expense of consumers.”

If Smith is right and lab-grown diamonds are currently being sold at inflated profit margins, the ease with which they are produced will ensure an increase in supply, resulting eventually in a price crash.

When that happens the value of the once-great De Beers business will fade, and the appeal to a mining company like BHP will disappear — if it succeeds in acquiring Anglo American.

Source: Forbes

De Beers’ diamond output drops after slow recovery triggers production cut

Diamond output for De Beers slumped 23 per cent in the first quarter, as production was cut in response to a slow recovery in demand amid a pullback in luxury spending and the proliferation of lab-grown equivalents.

De Beers was the only unit of Anglo American to adjust its full-year production forecast on Tuesday, reducing its guided range to 26mn to 29mn carats of output, from 29mn to 32mn, and lifting expected average costs to $90 per carat, from $80.

Anglo American said the diamond market was suffering from a price rout caused by excess piles of inventory, something that De Beers has previously acknowledged is partly down to lab-grown diamonds cannibalising demand for mined stones.

“Ongoing uncertainty around economic growth prospects has led to a continued cautious purchasing approach” by its customers, Anglo American said. “The recovery in rough diamond demand is expected to be gradual through the rest of the year,” it added.

De Beers said a nascent recovery had begun in the first quarter, buoyed by improved demand for diamond jewellery around Christmas and new year in the US.

Diamond producers including De Beers’ arch-rival, Russia’s Alrosa, tried to curb the flow of gemstones into the market in the second half of last year. The Indian government even put on a voluntary import moratorium on rough stones in the final quarter to protect its polishers and cutters.

Despite those continued efforts into this year, demand, prices and the market recovery remains sluggish, Anglo said, requiring further action to be taken to reduce supply.

Anglo American chief executive Duncan Wanblad has been under pressure to improve performance since a production downgrade in December sent shares tumbling, although it has been aided by higher commodity prices, especially for copper.

Wanblad has said that “nothing is off the table” when it comes to asset sales or other options to restructure units, of which De Beers and the platinum group metals division are the most troubled.

“We are progressing through our asset review to optimise value by simplifying and improving the overall quality of the portfolio,” he said in a statement in the first-quarter production update on Tuesday.

Shares in Anglo American dropped 1.7 per cent in early trading in London and remain about a third lower than they were at the start of 2023.

Besides diamonds, the London-based company managed to maintain its guidance across its other commodities such as copper, iron ore and steelmaking coal.

Copper output jumped 11 per cent to 198,100 tonnes, helped by record throughput at its Quellaveco mine in Peru and higher grades at its Chilean mines Collahuasi and El Soldado.

South Africa, where Anglo American has iron ore, steelmaking coal and platinum mines, has become an increasing drag on production because of crippling problems in the logistics and power sector. Rail constraints resulted in a 2 per cent drop in output at Kumba Iron Ore.

Source: DCLA

The 616 Diamond – Still Uncut and Unsold after 50 Years

It’s 50 years since the world’s largest octahedral diamond was recovered, and even today it remains uncut, unpolished and unsold.

The 616-carat Type 1 yellow diamond, dates back to 17 April 1974 and comes from the Dutoitspan Mine in Kimberley, South Africa, which opened in the 1870s and closed in 2005.

The miner who found the diamond, De Beers employee Abel Maretela, was rewarded with a large bonus and a house.  

Al Cook, De Beers Group CEO, was shown the diamond on a visit to Johannesburg, by Moses Madondo, CEO of De Beers Group managed operations.

“I’m a geologist so I love to learn about the history of diamonds even before they were found,” he said in a LinkedIn post.

“This is a Type 1 diamond which means that it was formed around 150 km below the earth’s surface, deep in the mantle, over 1 billion years ago.

“During the Cretaceous period, about 100 million years ago, a kimberlite volcano brought this diamond up to the earth’s surface. Its beautiful yellow colour comes from nitrogen atoms that were trapped inside the carbon lattice when it was forming in the mantle.”

Pics courtesy De Beers.

Source: DCLA