Rio Tinto buys back famed Argyle pink and red diamonds for latest tender due to dwindling stockpile

A select few with deep pockets are rolling into Perth to snap up the latest collection of Argyle diamonds, as unsold inventory of the ultra-rare gems whittles down to a “teaspoon”.

A top secret location in the CBD this week will host prospective buyers from Australia and overseas vying for 76 polished pink, red, and other coloured diamonds — predominantly unearthed at Rio Tinto’s shuttered Argyle mine in the east Kimberley region.

Argyle operated for 37 years up until 2020, and about 95 per cent of the world’s circulation of pink and red diamonds can be traced back to the mine.

Each carat of an Argyle pink or red can easily fetch a multi-million-dollar sum. Earlier this year a 1.56ct Argyle red sold for $US4.3 million ($6.4m) in Geneva, equating to $US2.7m a carat. One of the pinks in the latest collection weighs 2.63ct.

But not all of the famed gems sold are destined for an extravagant jewellery piece, with many opting to keep their purchase locked away in a vault as an investment.

“We have seen double digit price growth year on year for the past 20 years . . . and we seeing demand continue unabated for these stones,” Rio Tinto diamond sales and business development manager Michelle Sherring told The West Australian.

“The constrained supply means the value of pink diamonds has eclipsed any kind of comparable equity indices, like the Dow Jones and Hang Seng et cetera, over the years.”

Since mining ceased at Argyle Rio has touted each of its annual tenders for the diamonds as being one of the last.

“We now have a mere teaspoon (of unsold Argyle pinks and reds) remaining within our own inventory,” Ms Sherring said.

Stockpiles are now so low that for the first time ever the collection includes diamonds Rio has bought back from customers.

“Including the secondary market is a new concept for this year, we have very strong relationships with our long running customers,” Ms Sheering said.

“So I approached a handful of them at the beginning of the year in terms of the concept and we have over these years understood where some of the important diamonds sit and which safes they might be held in.

“It was a process of curation, and ultimately, what we have is a set of seven round diamonds which represent the real pinnacle of rarity.”

Of the 76 stones in the latest collection, 74 are from Argyle — the pink, red and blue diamonds — while the remaining two are a yellow and white diamond sourced from Rio’s Daivik mine in Canada.

Rio is displaying the collection — comprising 48 separate lots and weighing a combined 39.44 carats — on an invite-only basis in Perth, London, Singapore and Belgium. Bids for the tender will close on November 18.

Murray Rayner, who was previously the chief geologist for Argyle Diamonds, last year told The West that the existence of Argyle’s pink diamonds was due to a “fluke of nature” that will be extremely difficult to replicate.

Mr Rayner said the pink diamonds emerged around 1.8 billion years ago when the Kimberley collided into Australia, bringing pink diamonds closer to the Earth’s surface.

These pink diamonds were originally created at one point three billion years ago when our planet’s once-connected continents began to rip apart, with the intense pressure from this event causing the pink colouration in the diamonds.

“To find another deposit would be an extraordinarily rare event in its own right, we’ve looked over the last few decades without any success,” he said.

Source: DCLA

One of the Last Argyle Pinks Leads Online Auction

A loose 0.94 carat Argyle Pink – one of the last recovered from the iconic mine in Western Australia – is being sold at auction.

It is the highlight of a 416-lot online event (ending 11 August), featuring many items that belonged to Graham Jackson, former owner of Loloma Jewellers, located in Townsville, Australia, who died aged 92 in May.

The cushion cut fancy intense VS1 gem is designated as 6P – 6/10 for intensity of hue and P for pink as the dominant hue.

It was sold at the 2021 Argyle Pink Tender-Rio Tinto’s Final Collection, the last tender from the mine, which closed in November 2020 after 37 years, during which it produced 90 per cent of the world’s pink diamonds.

The stone is being sold by Sydney-based First State Auctions, with an estimate of AUD$700,000 to AUD$800,000 (US$455,000 to U$520,000).

Last January Tiffany & Co. has bought a parcel of 35 Argyle pinks – from 0.35 carats to 1.52 carats – for “select clients”.

Source: DCLA

Fancy Color Diamond Prices: First Drop in Almost Four Years

Fancy yellow cushion cut diamond

The Index tracking fancy color diamond prices fell during the last quarter, for the first time in almost four years.

The Fancy Color Diamond Index, which monitors pricing data for of all sizes and intensities of fancy color diamonds, fell by 0.7 per cent during Q2 2024, according to an update published yesterday (30 July) by the Fancy Color Research Foundation (FCRF).

The last recorded fall was back in Q3 2020 – in the depths of the Covid crisis – when the Index also fell by 0.7 per cent. That came after two quarters when sales were too slow for the FCRF to produce figures at all.

The trend over the last year or so has been of slower growth. The Index was up 1.3 per cent in Q1 2023, followed by +0.5 per cent (Q2); +0.4 per cent (Q3); +0.1 per cent (Q4) and +0.1 per cent (Q1 2024).

The New York-based FCRF played down the Q2 dip, describing it as “a minor fluctuation when compared to broader market movements”.

It said in a statement: “This stability is particularly evident relative to the sharper declines in the white diamond market and the Dow Jones index, which fell by 3.6 per cent and 1.7 per cent respectively during the same period.

Yellow diamonds (all sizes, all intensities) suffered the biggest drop, down 1.7 per cent. Pinks and blues were both down 0.3 per cent.

The FCRF said its Index had enjoyed an overall increase of 211 per cent since it began compiling data in 2005. During that time it said the price of yellow diamonds had risen by 56 per cent, pinks by 398 per cent and blues by 248 per cent.

Source: DCLA

A Colorful Life: Leibish Shares the Many Hues of His 40-Year Diamond Career

Behind his small and grandfatherly stature is a man who’s not afraid to say anything, and usually does. Leibish Polnauer has been in the diamond industry for over 40 years and runs an extremely successful business. But if not for a crazy fluke and a bit of luck, that business wouldn’t exist.

Polnauer — affectionately known in the trade as simply “Leibish” — welcomed Rapaport’s editorial team to his office in Israel’s diamond bourse to talk about how he got his start, the market for colored diamonds, what he thinks of lab-grown, and how the industry has changed over the years. We also got a sneak peek at some of the jewelry pieces his company is currently working on.

The train ride epiphany
Around 1980, after several years as a diamond polisher and the loss of his job at a factory that went out of business, Polnauer went to London to try to sell a parcel of diamonds. He didn’t manage to offload a single stone, but on the train, on the way back from his business meetings, he saw an advertisement in The Guardian for crown jeweler Garrard, featuring a pear-shaped, brown diamond. Using his abundance of “Israeli chutzpah,” he called the number and told them he had diamonds to sell. The managing director invited him to his office on Regent Street, where he told Polnauer he was making a tiara for a wedding and needed 106 pear-shaped diamonds in four weeks.

Despite his cheeky admission to our team that at the time he had never even heard of pear-shaped diamonds, Polnauer took on the challenge, flew to New York, and secured the stones needed for the piece. He brought them back to London, and Garrard, thrilled with the selection, cut him his first check for GBP 106,000, equivalent to about GBP 1 million ($1.3 million) today.

He used that experience to convince Graff to do business with him. At the time, the jewelry house worked with a sultan whose wife gifted every visitor to their palace with a diamond watch, and Graff was desperate for the pink and yellow diamonds needed to create 50 to 70 watches per year. And thus began Polnauer’s career in the colored-diamond business.

Changing with the times
Throughout the years, Polnauer has watched his business grow from diamond sourcing and manufacturing to include in-house designers that create custom pieces for clients whom they usually never meet face-to-face, but who nevertheless aren’t afraid to drop massive sums of money for a beautiful, original Leibish creation.

One of the most important lessons Polnauer has learned during his time in the colored-diamond industry is that people shop first by color, then by price tag. He has broadened his business to include colored gemstones, because if someone wants a blue diamond but can’t afford it, a sapphire or tanzanite can often present a compelling and cheaper alternative.

Most of the firm’s clients are wealthy 30- to 60-year-olds who have a penchant for color, because, as Polnauer notes, “color is excitement.” They purchase multiple pieces to match their clothing. One client in Texas bought 13 rings in a two-year period because she loved color. Meanwhile, another client ordered a ring for his wife, who then decided she needed earrings to match. When those were ready, she wanted a necklace to complete the set. Polnauer was more than happy to comply, and in a four-day time span, he saw his bank account padded with an additional $500,000.

But working in the colored-diamond industry isn’t always easy. Recently, the company was tasked with sourcing dozens of matching yellow diamonds to be used for a watch created by Jacob & Co. That search took the company on a two-year, international hunt before they finally filled the commission.

Other changes over his more than four-decade career have also been difficult. He has sadly watched as the Israeli diamond-manufacturing sector has diminished in importance with India’s growth, and learned the meaning of providing added value to customers.

“People used to just want to buy a stone, but now they want to buy a product,” he says. “You have to have an internet business; you have to manufacture jewelry. You also have to really be on point with your presentation. When business was face-to-face, if you screwed someone, he would just walk away upset. Now, with the internet, he doesn’t walk away. If he doesn’t like what he gets, he sends it back, and he writes a bad report about you on Google, and you have to pay for the return shipment, so presentation is crucial.”

No lab-grown zone
While many in the industry have welcomed the advent of lab-grown as a way to make money from clients who can’t always afford natural stones, Polnauer pulls no punches about his dislike of what he calls “fakes.”

He believes lab-grown to be detrimental to the natural-diamond industry, because the fall of synthetic prices “pulls down the price of real diamonds.”

He’s also not shy about making it known how damaging he thinks De Beers was with its marketing of lab-grown.

“De Beers made a tremendous self-destructive move by introducing a product which is undermining the basic product they sell,” he explains. “They cannibalized their own sales and did a tremendous disservice to the industry.”

However, Polnauer believes when it comes to lab-grown, there is a light at the end of the tunnel.

“Lab-grown is stealing the story from natural diamonds,” he says. “But there is a saying: ‘When the music stops, the dancing stops,’ so hopefully everything will work out for the best.”

Staying optimistic
His brazenness has seen Polnauer ride out many market ups and downs, the latest challenge being the Israel-Hamas war that started when the latter attacked the country on October 7. When asked if it’s affected his business, he says it has. While he notes that those who want to buy his products still will, and those who don’t never would have anyway, he believes the negative sentiment is “poison” for an industry based on “illusion and sentiment.”

Despite it all, he remains hopeful. When it comes to the future of the trade, he thinks “fancy-colored diamonds will flourish, gemstones will flourish and the jewelry market will flourish, because I’m an optimist, and if you put that positivity out there, everything will work out.”

Source: DCLA