A 3.06-carat pink diamond ring will be the star of an upcoming jewelry sale at Heritage Auctions, where it is set to fetch as much as $300,000.
The modified marquise-shaped, fancy-pink stone, surrounded by 0.55 carats of full-cut diamonds, will lead the December 4 Holiday Fine Jewelry Signature Auction in Dallas, Texas, Heritage said Monday.
Other standout items include pieces by Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Tiffany & Co., and diamond earrings created in 1950 by Parisian jeweler Jean Schlumberger. One of the more interesting lots is an enamel and 18-karat gold helicopter by Pierno Frascarolo & Co.
Here are some of the other top items:
A ring by designer David Webb features a pear-shaped, 18.65-carat Ceylon purple sapphire, 9.35 carats of full-cut diamonds and a turquoise cabochon, estimated at up to $80,000.An emerald-cut, 4.62-carat, H-color, VS1-clarity diamond ring is expected to fetch up to $75,000 at the auction.This ring is set with a cut-cornered rectangular-cut, 5.57-carat, fancy-intense-yellow, VS1-clarity diamond center stone, flanked by tapered bullet-shaped white diamonds and rectangular-shaped emeralds. It carries a presale price range of $50,000 to $75,000.Heritage will offer this cushion-shaped, 19.51-carat sapphire and diamond ring for $50,000 to $70,000.
Ahmed bin Sulayem, who this week was elected to take charge of the Kimberley Process, a multilateral body tasked with cleaning up the diamond trade, said any proposed scheme “must take into account African diamond producing nations” such as Botswana, the Democratic Republic of Congo and South Africa.
But the Emirati warned that a Belgian proposal to put restrictions on the international trade of diamonds, which the G7 is considering adopting, “falls well short of this important goal”.
The EU’s chief diplomat Josep Borrell last week said the bloc was set to move ahead with a ban on Russian diamonds after securing sufficient backing from the G7 group of developed nations.
The diamond dispute is only the latest rift between Europe and African capitals. A ministerial meeting set for next week has been postponed after officials decided there was little chance that the two sides would agree on a joint communiqué containing language regarding Israel’s war against Hamas and Russia’s war in Ukraine, according to three people briefed on the discussions.
Pandora has lifted its outlook for the full year as third-quarter and early fourth-quarter sales remain strong amid the implementation of a new strategy and increased tourism.
The Danish jeweler now expects sales will rise 5% to 6% on an organic basis for 2023, compared with the 2% to 5% rise it had reported earlier in the year, it said last week. The earnings before interest and taxes (EBIT) is unchanged at around 25%.
“We are very pleased with our results this quarter,” said Pandora CEO Alexander Lacik. “Our investments in the brand are attracting more consumers into our stores. We have delivered strong broad-based growth.”
Current trading at the start of the fourth quarter is “healthy,” with like-for-like growth in the high-single-digit levels, Pandora noted.
The company’s sales increased 6% to DKK 5.57 billion ($812.1 million) in the three months ending September 30. Organic growth was 11%, while sales rose 9% on a like-for-like basis. The increase in sales was a result of the jeweler’s investment in further measures through its Phoenix program, a growth and brand transformation strategy it started in 2021. An unexpected pickup in both domestic spending and tourist purchases also drove sales. In addition, the company benefited from the expansion of its lab-grown diamond line, which increased 84% on a like-for-like basis, it said.
Pandora to Woo Gen Z-ers for Revenue Boost
Online sales grew 11% year on year in the third quarter, representing 16% of total revenue for the period. Profit slipped 26% to DKK 543 million ($78.9 million).
“Initiatives under Phoenix are on track and yielding positive results,” the company added. “Additionally, the brand has demonstrated its strength amid a weak macro in 2023. Pandora therefore enters the fourth quarter, the biggest quarter of the year, with confidence.”
A pair of fancy vivid orange-yellow diamond earrings weighing 12.20 and 11.96 carats will be the top lot at Christie’s Magnificent Jewels sale on December 6 in New York. The earrings, which are named “California Sunset Diamonds,” are estimated at $7 million – $12 million.
A ring with a similar fancy vivid yellowish orange diamond weighing 5.16 carats has an estimate of $1.5 million – $2 million.
A 5.16-carat fancy vivid yellowish orange diamond has an estimate of $1.5 million – $2 million CHRISTIE’S
There haven’t been many details released yet for Christie’s final jewelry auction of 2023, but the sale will include several fancy colored diamonds, white diamonds and colored gems. As always, there will be signed jewels from important collections.
When the world’s most important diamond buyers arrived at De Beers’ offices in Botswana late last month, they were presented with a rare offer by their host: the option to buy nothing at all.
De Beers markets its rough diamonds in a series of tightly scripted sales, where handpicked buyers are normally expected to take all their contracted allocations at a price set by De Beers, or face potential penalties in the future. But with prices in free fall around the world, the one-time diamond monopoly has been forced to allow more and more flexibility, finally removing the restrictions altogether.
The concessions are the latest in a series of increasingly desperate moves across the industry to stem this year’s plunge in diamond prices, after slowing consumer demand left buyers stuck with swelling inventories. De Beers’s great rival, Russian miner Alrosa PJSC, already canceled all its sales for two months, while the market in India — the dominant cutting and trading center — had self imposed a halt on imports.
At the recent De Beers sale, its buyers, mostly from India and Antwerp, seized on the unusual flexibility, between them buying just $80 million of uncut gems. Normally De Beers would have expected to shift between $400 million and $500 million at such a sale. Outside of the early days of the pandemic — when sales were halted altogether — the company has not sold so few gems since it started making the results public in 2016.
The speed and severity of the collapse in diamond prices caught many by surprise.
The industry had been one of the great winners of the global pandemic, as stuck-at-home shoppers turned to diamond jewelery and other luxury purchases. But as economies opened up, demand quickly cooled, leaving many in the trade holding too much stock that they’d bought for too much money.
What looked like a cool down quickly turned into a plunge. The US economy, by far the industry’s most important market, wobbled under rising inflationary pressure, while key growth market China was hit by a real estate crisis that sapped consumer confidence. To make things worse, the insurgent lab-grown diamond industry started making major gains in a couple of key segments.
While there are many different diamond categories, broadly prices for wholesale polished diamonds have tumbled about 20% this year, firing a more dramatic fall in rough — or uncut — stones that have plunged as much as 35%, with the steepest declines happening though late summer and early autumn.
The industry’s response was to choke off supply in an almost unprecedented way, which finally seems to be working.
Prices at some smaller tender sales and auctions have risen between 5% and 10% in the past week as shortages of some stones start to emerge. With Indian factories set to reopen next month after prolonged Diwali closures, there is now renewed confidence that the worst has passed.
“The diamond industry has successfully taken action to stabilize things,” said Anish Aggarwal, a partner at specialist diamond advisory firm Gemdax. “That now creates a window to rebuild confidence.”
The plunge in diamond prices has coincided with weakness across the luxury space. LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton SE, the luxury titan with 75 labels ranging from Christian Dior to Bulgari, has disappointed investors this year as China’s recovery underwhelmed and demand from US consumers cooled, with the stock shedding more than $100 billion in value since mid April. On Friday, Cartier owner Richemont reported a surprise decline in earnings as revenue from luxury watches unexpectedly fell and high-end consumers reined in spending.
Yet there are specific peculiarities to the diamond industry that make it more vulnerable to slowing consumer demand. De Beers sells its gems through 10 sales each year in which the buyers — known as sightholders — generally have to accept the price and the quantities offered.
When prices are rising, as they did for much of the past two years, these buyers are often incentivized to speculate, betting that paying for unprofitable stones now will pay off if prices continue to rise. Buyers are also rewarded for making big purchases by being given bigger allotments in the future, known in the industry as “buying for position.”
These mechanisms often lead to speculative bubbles, which pop when consumer demand slows and polished diamond inventories build up.
In response, Alrosa stopped selling diamonds altogether for two months, while the Indian diamond sector introduced a halt on imports that will run to mid December. De Beers has allowed its customers to refuse all purchases without it having any impact on the future allocations for its last two sales of the year.
While the two dominant diamond miners have a long history of curtailing supply or letting buyers refuse some goods when demand weakens, the speed and scale of the combined actions is extremely unusual outside of a major crisis such as the outbreak of the pandemic.
While prices have stopped falling — and in some areas rising again — much will depend on the crucial holiday season, which spans from Thanksgiving to Chinese New Year, and how the big miners who have accumulated large stocks of unsold gems feed them back into the market.
There also remains uncertainty in the industry about how much of the slowdown is being driven by macro-economic weakness, versus a more worrying shift in consumer choices. Lab-grown diamonds have made rapid progress in some key segments of the market, while there are lingering concerns in the industry about whether Gen Z consumers look at diamonds the same way as previous generations do.
“We expect there to be some cyclical recovery in the diamond markets,” said Christopher LaFemina, an analyst at Jefferies. “But we believe there are also structural issues here that could lead to weaker than expected demand for the longer term.”
Christie’s has auctioned one of the rarest blue diamonds in the world for a staggering $44 million.
On Tuesday, the stone called the “Bleu Royal” went under the hammer as one of the highlights of the auction house’s Luxury Week sale in Geneva, far outstripping the presale estimate. It is the first time the stone has been sold at auction, having been in private hands for the past half century.
Set into a ring, the 17.61 carat, pear shaped diamond is considered the largest internally flawless vivid blue diamond to have ever come to auction, and had a presale estimate of $35 million. At the sale, it eventually realised $43.8 million, making it the most expensive jewel sold at auction this year.
Australia’s Lucapa Diamond has unearthed a 235 carat type IIa diamond from its prolific Lulo mine, the second largest recovered at the Angola operation since it opened in 2015.
The find comes barely a week after the recovery of a 208 carat diamond at the same mine, which is the third-largest ever recovered from Lulo.
The new diamond was dug up from Mining Block 550, immediately south of Mining Block 19, which Lucapa said is the area that has yielded eight precious rocks over 100 carats to date.
Not surprisingly, the mine is considered the world’s highest dollar per carat alluvial diamonds operation, in which Lucapa has a 40% interest. The rest is held by Angola’s national diamond company (Endiama) and Rosas & Petalas, a private entity.
The partners have now recovered 40 diamonds weighing more than 100 carats and four over 200 carats at Lulo. In 2016, only a year after beginning commercial production, Lulo produced the largest ever diamond recovered in Angola a 404 carat white stone later named the “4th February Stone”.
“Lulo continues to demonstrate it is a prolific producer of large diamonds. To unearth three +100 carat diamonds with two being over 200 carats in such a short space of time from different areas of the concession, makes us more determined to find the primary source, by dedicating even more resources to the exploration program,” Lucapa managing director, Nick Selby, said in the statement.
Angola is the world’s fifth diamond producer by value and sixth by volume. Its industry, which began a century ago under Portuguese colonial rule, is successfully lessening government regulations and restrictions in favour of a greater participation by private entities.
