Iconic Rainbow Collection Sells Just Above Low Estimate at Christie’s Geneva

The legendary Rainbow Collection more than 300 fancy coloured diamonds amassed over four decades by the late Eddy Elzas sold for just above its low estimate at Christie’s Geneva on 11 November, achieving $2.19 million against a pre-sale estimate of $1.98 million to $2.98 million.

Comprising around 350 carats and spanning the full colour spectrum, the collection was once hailed as one of the world’s most extraordinary private assemblages of fancy coloured diamonds. Over the years, press reports placed its value between $60 million and $100 million.

Elzas, affectionately known as “The King of Coloured Diamonds,” famously declined a lavish offer from a Saudi prince who reportedly wished to purchase the collection as a wedding gift for Prince Charles and Lady Diana.

A true pioneer in the fancy colour diamond trade, Eddy Elzas was instrumental in elevating global recognition of coloured diamonds during his 40-year career. He passed away in November 2021 at the age of 79.

Christie’s described the Rainbow Collection as “an impressive collection of unmounted coloured and treated coloured diamonds,” featuring 300 stones across an array of hues and shapes. The lot included 291 GIA reports dated between 2008 and 2025, with diamonds ranging from 0.24 carats to 4.89 carats in yellow, orange, blue, pink, red, brown, and grey tones.

For the DCLA, this sale highlights not only the enduring fascination with fancy colour diamonds but also the evolving market perception of rarity and provenance in today’s auction landscape.

Rare ‘Mellon Blue’ Diamond Fetches $25.5 Million at Christie’s Geneva – Market Reflects Shifting Demand for Coloured Diamonds

The legendary Mellon Blue Diamond a 9.51-carat fancy vivid blue, internally flawless gem sold for $25.5 million USD at Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction in Geneva this week. The sale, held at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues, drew global attention from elite collectors and gem enthusiasts alike.

The Mellon Blue once belonged to renowned art collector Rachel Lambert “Bunny” Mellon, whose refined taste and cultural influence continue to shape the world of art and jewellery. Despite its exquisite pedigree, the price achieved represents a 22 percent decrease from its previous sale 11 years ago and a nearly 60 percent drop in real value when adjusted for inflation.

Originally auctioned at Sotheby’s in 2014 as part of Mellon’s estate collection, the diamond fetched $32.6 million USD, setting a world record for a blue diamond at that time. Adjusted for inflation, that sum equates to approximately $44.7 million in 2025.

Christie’s had estimated the gem between $20 million and $30 million, and the final sale once again highlighted the continuing prestige of exceptional coloured diamonds despite softer market conditions.

Rahul Kadakia, Christie’s Chairman of Global Luxury and President of Asia Pacific, remarked:

“It was a true honour to offer for sale the exquisite Mellon Blue Diamond here at Christie’s Geneva. It was another notable moment for Christie’s Luxury, evidencing the elite appetite amongst collectors for extraordinary and storied gems.”

The winning bidder, identified only as a collector from Hong Kong, continued the stone’s legacy of global fascination.

While the Mellon Blue once held the world record for a blue diamond, that benchmark has since been overtaken by two other remarkable stones:

• The 14.62-carat Oppenheimer Blue, sold at Christie’s in 2016 for $57.5 million USD
• The 15.10-carat De Beers Cullinan Blue, sold by Sotheby’s in 2022, also for $57.5 million USD

These historic sales underline the rarity and enduring appeal of fancy vivid blue diamonds, which represent less than 0.1 percent of all diamonds, and of those, fewer than 1 percent qualify as fancy vivid.

Bunny Mellon, who passed away in 2014 at age 103, was celebrated not only for her wealth being heiress to the Listerine and Mellon fortunes but also for her artistry and impeccable taste. She famously designed the White House Rose Garden and curated an impressive art collection that included two Rothko masterpieces, which together realised $76 million USD at auction.

When Christie’s announced the diamond’s return to auction earlier this year, Kadakia described the sale as a tribute to Mellon’s lasting influence, saying her legacy “elevates the Mellon Blue’s allure by tying it to her sophisticated aesthetic and cultural prominence.”

The auction itself was as heated as the competition literally with the auctioneer requesting the windows be opened mid-sale to cool the room as bidding intensified.

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About DCLA: The Diamond Certification Laboratory of Australia (DCLA) is the official CIBJO-recognised diamond laboratory in Australia, specialising in independent diamond grading and certification. DCLA ensures the highest international standards of accuracy, integrity, and transparency in diamond evaluation.

Gemologists Uncover the Secrets Behind the Rarity of Red Diamonds

Red diamonds remain one of nature’s most elusive and captivating treasures. With only 24 specimens over one carat ever publicly recorded, their scarcity is legendary. Among them, the remarkable Winston Red has now taken centre stage at the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History in Washington, DC.

This exceptional gem was donated in December 2023 by Ronald Winston, son of the renowned American jeweller Harry Winston. Weighing over one carat, the Winston Red is not only a visual marvel but also a scientific mystery—until now.

Recent research published in Gems & Gemology has provided unprecedented insight into what makes red diamonds so rare. Using advanced imaging and spectroscopic techniques, gemologists have identified that the Winston Red’s vivid crimson hue results from a combination of factors: a unique distribution of nitrogen impurities and a heavily deformed crystal lattice structure composed of tightly stacked red-to-pink layers.

These structural distortions—formed under extraordinary heat and pressure—are thought to alter the way light interacts with the diamond, giving rise to its intense red colour. Such conditions are extremely rare in the Earth’s mantle, further explaining the diamond’s scarcity.

Historical records trace the Winston Red as far back as 1938, when Jacques Cartier sold the stone to the Maharajah of Nawanagar. Combined with its cutting style and geological characteristics, the evidence suggests the gem likely originated from diamond-producing regions in Brazil or Venezuela.

For gemologists and collectors alike, the Winston Red represents both a scientific breakthrough and a pinnacle of natural beauty—an enduring reminder of the Earth’s ability to create something truly extraordinary.

Source: DCLA

One of the World’s Rarest Red Diamonds Goes on Display

The Winston Red, an extraordinary and exceptionally rare diamond, is now on show to the public — making it the only known pure red diamond of its kind currently on display anywhere in the world.

Weighing 2.33 carats, it holds the distinction of being the fifth-largest pure red diamond known to exist. To put that into perspective, fewer than two dozen red diamonds over one carat have ever been recorded, making this a truly exceptional stone.

It’s now on exhibit at the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History in Washington, D.C., as part of a special showcase of natural coloured diamonds.

A team from the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), working alongside experts from the Smithsonian’s Department of Mineral Sciences and the Paris School of Mines, have conducted an in-depth examination of the gem.

GIA’s president and CEO, Susan Jacques, called the Winston Red “one of the most exquisite gems on Earth,” noting its intense deep-red colour and fascinating history. Red diamonds are incredibly rare, and among the more than one million coloured diamonds studied by GIA, a mere 0.07% were red — and just over half of those qualified for the elite ‘Fancy red’ grade awarded to the Winston Red.

Through advanced research, GIA scientists have identified the diamond’s colour origin and believe it likely came from either Brazil or Venezuela.

Tom Moses, GIA’s executive VP and head of research, shared his personal connection to the stone, having first examined it back in 1987. He recalled its striking deep red hue and historical significance — a diamond once sold by Jacques Cartier in 1938 to the Maharaja of Nawanagar.

The Winston Red is now the star attraction in a new exhibition at the Smithsonian, which features 40 other rare coloured diamonds from the Winston Fancy Color Diamond Collection. The collection was donated by Ronald Winston, son of legendary jeweller Harry Winston.

This exhibition is a rare opportunity to witness one of nature’s most elusive and captivating treasures — a true celebration of colour, history, and craftsmanship.

Source: DCLA

Smithsonian Acquires One of the World’s Largest “Fancy Red” Diamonds

Winston Red Diamond Will Be Unveiled to the Public at the National Museum of Natural History Alongside a Rainbow of Colorful Diamonds

The Smithsonian’s National Museum of Natural History will unveil the Winston Red Diamond and Winston Fancy Color Diamond Collection Tuesday, April 1—an extraordinary showcase of some of the world’s rarest and most dazzling gems.

The breathtaking diamonds were gifted to the museum by Ronald Winston, the son of distinguished jeweler and gem collector Harry Winston. In 1958, Harry Winston donated the iconic Hope Diamond to the Smithsonian, laying the foundation for the National Gem Collection. Now, the Winston Red Diamond and Winston Fancy Color Diamond Collection will be featured in the museum’s Winston Gallery, offering visitors the rare opportunity to witness one of the finest collections of fancy color diamonds ever amassed.

“This ranks among the most significant gifts ever received by the Smithsonian,” said Kirk Johnson, the Sant Director of the National Museum of Natural History. “The Winston diamonds are unprecedented in their beauty and rarity, and we are thrilled to welcome them as additions to our National Gem Collection. We extend our gratitude to Ronald Winston for making this gift to the nation possible.”

Natural red diamonds are among the rarest gemstones on Earth, and the Winston Red Diamond stands out as exceptional. At 2.33 carats, it ranks among the largest diamonds ever bestowed with the coveted “Fancy red” color grade by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). Researchers estimate that less than one in 25 million diamonds is a Fancy red, and the Winston Red Diamond is one of the most exquisite in existence.

“The red diamond is the highlight of my career, and I have never seen anything else like it,” Ronald Winston said. “This donation to the museum represents my life’s achievements in this domain, and I am so happy to share this collection with the Institution and the museum’s visitors.”

While some colorful diamonds get their pigmented appearance from atomic impurities in their crystal structure, the Winston Red Diamond’s striking crimson hue is the product of extremely high pressure and temperature conditions deep within the Earth that strained and altered the crystal. The diamond features an old mine brilliant cut, a style that predates the round brilliant cut used in engagement rings today. With fewer, larger facets, this distinctive cut suggests the stone was fashioned before the mid-1900s. A study on the science and history of the Winston Red Diamond is forthcoming in the spring 2025 issue of Gems & Gemology, the quarterly professional journal of the GIA.

“In this collection, we have diamonds in colors I could never have dreamed of,” said mineralogist Gabriela Farfan, the Coralyn W. Whitney Curator of Gems and Minerals. “These gems give us the opportunity to share with our visitors the full range of colors in which diamonds occur.”

The Winston Red Diamond will be displayed alongside 40 other gems from the Winston Fancy Color Diamond Collection. The diamonds will be arranged in a radiant rainbow of color, featuring every shade imaginable from deep teal to soft peach.

The Winston Red Diamond and Fancy Color Diamond Collection are the result of 60 years of dedicated acquisitions by Ronald Winston. Alongside the Hope Diamond, the new display will honor the legacy of the Winston family and showcase the brilliance and rarity of these exceptional gems.

Source: DCLA

IDEX Price Report for 1 May: Prices Show Signs of Stabilizing

A diamond held by dop is polished on rotating automatic cast iron lap

Prices showed signs of stabilizing during April, with an even mix of increases and decreases in many sizes, especially fancy cuts. Overall there were more clusters of price rises than we have seen of late.

It’s too early to positively identify a clear upward trend, but the “end of the lab grown boom” is arguably having an impact. Lab grown prices are now so low – in some case just 10 per cent of natural – that many jewelers are opting not to stock them in inventory and are only buying them on consignment.

In addition the G7 sanctions, in place since 1 March, are now starting to bite, and to slowly push up prices.

They have effectively restored the De Beers monopoly, although its rough production is down by almost a quarter so far this year (as is Rio Tinto’s) and rough sales remain sluggish (down 18 per cent on last year). Meanwhile polished exports from India fell by 27 per cent during March to $1.2bn

Highlighted changes

Rounds

1.00-1.24 ct. D-F / VVS2-VS1 +4-5%, F-I / IF-VVS1 -1-7%

2.00-2.99 ct. D-G / VVS2-VS2 +2.5-5%, G-N / IF-VVS1 -2-5%

4.00-4.99 ct. E-I / VS1-2 +1-4%, K-M / VS2-SI1 -1-2%

Fancy Cuts

1.25-1.49 ct. D-I / VVS1-SI1 -1-6.5%

1.50-1.99 ct. D-E / VVS1-VS2 +1-5%, I-J / IF-VS2 -4.5-5.5%

2.00-2.99 ct. D-H / VVS2-VS2 +2.5-3%, H-N / IF-VVS1 -2-5%

Source: DCLA

Rare Orange-Red Diamond Appears at Auction

 Rare Orange-Red Diamond Appears at Auction

                    1.21-carat, fancy-orangey-red

Heritage Auctions has unveiled a 1.21-carat, fancy-orangey-red diamond that will go under the hammer at its Fall Fine Jewelry Signature auction on September 29.

“This gem is one of only a few diamonds to display enough saturation and intensity to be graded as a true red,” said Jill Burgum, Heritage Auctions’ executive director of fine jewelry. “Adding to the allure, the cause of a red diamond’s color remains a mystery to scientists, making this stone even more of a marvel.”

The stone has a presale estimate of $100,000 to $150,000.

Other notable diamonds included in the sale are a 17.63-carat, fancy-intense-yellow diamond ring from the estate of Dallas philanthropist Mary Anne Sammons Cree, which is expected to fetch $300,000 to $400,000. More than 125 jewels from Cree’s collection are up for sale, with the proceeds going to the Communities Foundation of Texas as well as Dallas-area nonprofits.

Source: DCLA

Christie’s Gets Colorful with New York Auction

 

Three rings featuring diamonds with fancy-vivid color will head up the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction in New York next month.

The trio of jewels, called the Perfect Palette, comprises a 2.13-carat, fancy-vivid-blue diamond ring, estimated at $2 million to $3 million, Christie’s said Tuesday. Also included are a 2.34-carat, fancy-vivid-orange diamond ring and a 2.17-carat, fancy-vivid-purplish-pink diamond ring, both with a high valuation of $2.5 million. Each will be offered as a separate lot at the April 13 sale, the auction house added.

Other notable items are two oval modified brilliant-cut diamonds. The first — a 25.55-carat, fancy-vivid-yellow, VS1-clarity diamond ring — has a high estimate of $1.2 million, while the 6.56-carat, fancy-intense-orangey-pink, VVS1-clarity diamond ring carries an upper valuation of $1 million.

An oval mixed-cut, 3.02-carat, fancy-vivid-purplish-pink, SI2-clarity diamond ring, set with round pink diamonds on the band, is estimated at up to $1.5 million. Christie’s will offer that piece without reserve.

Meanwhile, a pear brilliant-cut, 38.04-carat, D-flawless, type IIa diamond ring with a high estimate of $3.5 million will feature as a top lot. An emerald-cut, 14.50-carat, D-color, internally flawless, type IIa diamond valued at up to $1 million is also up for sale, as are signed pieces by designers Suzanne Belperron, Bulgari, Cartier, David Webb, Harry Winston, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Verdura.

Christie’s will hold a concurrent Online Jewels auction from April 8 to 20, featuring a selection of items from Bulgari, Cartier and Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co., among others. The auction house has not decided whether it will hold an in-person sale or conduct live bidding over the phone and online, a spokesperson told Rapaport News.

Source: DCLA

Christie’s Gets Colorful with New York Auction

 

Three rings featuring diamonds with fancy-vivid color will head up the Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction in New York next month.

The trio of jewels, called the Perfect Palette, comprises a 2.13-carat, fancy-vivid-blue diamond ring, estimated at $2 million to $3 million, Christie’s said Tuesday. Also included are a 2.34-carat, fancy-vivid-orange diamond ring and a 2.17-carat, fancy-vivid-purplish-pink diamond ring, both with a high valuation of $2.5 million. Each will be offered as a separate lot at the April 13 sale, the auction house added.

Other notable items are two oval modified brilliant-cut diamonds. The first — a 25.55-carat, fancy-vivid-yellow, VS1-clarity diamond ring — has a high estimate of $1.2 million, while the 6.56-carat, fancy-intense-orangey-pink, VVS1-clarity diamond ring carries an upper valuation of $1 million.

An oval mixed-cut, 3.02-carat, fancy-vivid-purplish-pink, SI2-clarity diamond ring, set with round pink diamonds on the band, is estimated at up to $1.5 million. Christie’s will offer that piece without reserve.

Meanwhile, a pear brilliant-cut, 38.04-carat, D-flawless, type IIa diamond ring with a high estimate of $3.5 million will feature as a top lot. An emerald-cut, 14.50-carat, D-color, internally flawless, type IIa diamond valued at up to $1 million is also up for sale, as are signed pieces by designers Suzanne Belperron, Bulgari, Cartier, David Webb, Harry Winston, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Verdura.

Christie’s will hold a concurrent Online Jewels auction from April 8 to 20, featuring a selection of items from Bulgari, Cartier and Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co., among others. The auction house has not decided whether it will hold an in-person sale or conduct live bidding over the phone and online, a spokesperson told Rapaport News.

Source: DCLA

Alrosa finds first large coloured diamond at new Yakutia mine

Russia’s Alrosa, the world’s top diamond miner by output, has found a 17.4-carat bright yellow gem-quality precious rock at its new Verkhne-Munskoye deposit in Yakutia, which started operations in 2018.

The diamond, recovered in mid-February from the Zapolyarnaya kimberlite pipe, is the first large coloured stone found at the site, the company said.

Alrosa, which did not disclose the estimated value of the diamond, said it would be assessed and evaluated by its experts in coming days.

Diamond miners and traders have been hit hard in the past year by weak market conditions. These factors have taken a major toll on producers of small stones due to an oversupply in that segment.

De Beers reported Thursday its worst set of earnings since Anglo American (LON:AAL) acquired it in 2012.

The world’s No. 1 diamond miner by market cap said demand for rough diamonds from polishers and cutters was weak last year due to the impact of US-China trade tension and the closure of US retail outlets. Many companies in the so-called midstream are struggling to obtain financing, it said.

Alrosa believes the situation is about to change as it’s already seeing the first signs of stabilization in the sector.

Increasing demand for synthetic diamonds has also weighed on prices. Man-made diamonds require less investment than mining natural stones and can offer more attractive margins.

Industry consultant Bain & Co., however, believes that while glut that’s depressing the diamond market will probably be cleared early this year, it will take at least another 12 months for the market to fully recover.

“The industry’s first and strongest opportunity to rebalance and regain growth will be 2021,” said Bain in a report released in December, adding that supply could fall 8% that year.

Source: DCLA

Alrosa finds first large coloured diamond at new Yakutia mine

Russia’s Alrosa, the world’s top diamond miner by output, has found a 17.4-carat bright yellow gem-quality precious rock at its new Verkhne-Munskoye deposit in Yakutia, which started operations in 2018.

The diamond, recovered in mid-February from the Zapolyarnaya kimberlite pipe, is the first large coloured stone found at the site, the company said.

Alrosa, which did not disclose the estimated value of the diamond, said it would be assessed and evaluated by its experts in coming days.

Diamond miners and traders have been hit hard in the past year by weak market conditions. These factors have taken a major toll on producers of small stones due to an oversupply in that segment.

De Beers reported Thursday its worst set of earnings since Anglo American (LON:AAL) acquired it in 2012.

The world’s No. 1 diamond miner by market cap said demand for rough diamonds from polishers and cutters was weak last year due to the impact of US-China trade tension and the closure of US retail outlets. Many companies in the so-called midstream are struggling to obtain financing, it said.

Alrosa believes the situation is about to change as it’s already seeing the first signs of stabilization in the sector.

Increasing demand for synthetic diamonds has also weighed on prices. Man-made diamonds require less investment than mining natural stones and can offer more attractive margins.

Industry consultant Bain & Co., however, believes that while glut that’s depressing the diamond market will probably be cleared early this year, it will take at least another 12 months for the market to fully recover.

“The industry’s first and strongest opportunity to rebalance and regain growth will be 2021,” said Bain in a report released in December, adding that supply could fall 8% that year.

Source: DCLA

Most Expensive Coloured Diamonds

Blue

The 9.75 carat Zoe Diamond which sold for more than $32 million.

Zoe Diamond

Green

5.03 carats Aurora Green sold for $16.8 million

Aurora Green

Orange

14.82 carat pear shaped Orange diamond sold for more than $35 million.

The Orange

Red

The 1.56 carat Fancy Red Phoenix diamond sold for $2 million

Phoenix diamond

Pink

59.60 carat Pink Star $71.2 million

Pink Star

Yellow

Vivid Yellow 100.09 carat sold for $16.3 million.

Graff Vivid Yellow

Source: DCLA

Most Expensive Coloured Diamonds

Blue

The 9.75 carat Zoe Diamond which sold for more than $32 million.

Zoe Diamond

Green

5.03 carats Aurora Green sold for $16.8 million

Aurora Green

Orange

14.82 carat pear shaped Orange diamond sold for more than $35 million.

The Orange

Red

The 1.56 carat Fancy Red Phoenix diamond sold for $2 million

Phoenix diamond

Pink

59.60 carat Pink Star $71.2 million

Pink Star

Yellow

Vivid Yellow 100.09 carat sold for $16.3 million.

Graff Vivid Yellow

Source: DCLA

Lucara finds blue and pink diamonds at Botswana mine

Canada’s Lucara Diamond continues to find gem quality, coloured diamonds at its Karowe mine, in Botswana, which in April yielded the 1,758 carat Sewelô meaning “rare find” diamond, the largest ever recovered in the African country.

The Vancouver based miner has now recovered a 9.74 carat blue and a 4.13 carat pink diamond from direct milling of the South Lobe, the area that yielded the famous 1,111 carat “Lesedi La Rona” in 2015.

The announcement comes on the heels of last week’s display of a 123 carat gem quality, top white, Type II diamond, found at the same section of the mine.

It also follows the recent sale of a 2.24 carat blue for $347,222 per carat.

Karowe, which began commercial operations in 2012, has this year yielded 22 diamonds larger than 100 carats, eight of them exceeding 200 carats.

Since the start of the year, the miner has sold 19 diamonds each with an individual price in excess of $1 million at its quarterly tender sales. This includes seven diamonds that fetched more than $2 million each, and one diamond that carried a final price tag of over $8 million.

“Lucara is extremely pleased with the recovery of these rare, sizeable, fancy coloured diamonds, which have the potential to contribute meaningful value to our regular production of large, high-value type IIa diamonds,” chief executive, Eira Thomas, said in the statement.

The precious rocks will be put up for sale in December, during the company’s fourth quarter tender.

Lucara, which has focused efforts on the prolific Botswana mine this year, is close to completing a feasibility study into potential underground production and life of mine expansion at Karowe.

Source: DCLA

Lucara finds blue and pink diamonds at Botswana mine

Canada’s Lucara Diamond continues to find gem quality, coloured diamonds at its Karowe mine, in Botswana, which in April yielded the 1,758 carat Sewelô meaning “rare find” diamond, the largest ever recovered in the African country.

The Vancouver based miner has now recovered a 9.74 carat blue and a 4.13 carat pink diamond from direct milling of the South Lobe, the area that yielded the famous 1,111 carat “Lesedi La Rona” in 2015.

The announcement comes on the heels of last week’s display of a 123 carat gem quality, top white, Type II diamond, found at the same section of the mine.

It also follows the recent sale of a 2.24 carat blue for $347,222 per carat.

Karowe, which began commercial operations in 2012, has this year yielded 22 diamonds larger than 100 carats, eight of them exceeding 200 carats.

Since the start of the year, the miner has sold 19 diamonds each with an individual price in excess of $1 million at its quarterly tender sales. This includes seven diamonds that fetched more than $2 million each, and one diamond that carried a final price tag of over $8 million.

“Lucara is extremely pleased with the recovery of these rare, sizeable, fancy coloured diamonds, which have the potential to contribute meaningful value to our regular production of large, high-value type IIa diamonds,” chief executive, Eira Thomas, said in the statement.

The precious rocks will be put up for sale in December, during the company’s fourth quarter tender.

Lucara, which has focused efforts on the prolific Botswana mine this year, is close to completing a feasibility study into potential underground production and life of mine expansion at Karowe.

Source: DCLA