Christie’s has canceled its fourth sale of jewelry belonging to Austrian billionaire Heidi Horten following controversy over her late husband’s connection to the Nazi party.
“Christie’s has taken the decision not to proceed with further sales of property from the estate of Heidi Horten,” Anthea Peers, president of Christie’s for Europe, the Middle East and Africa (EMEA), told Rapaport News Sunday.
The auction house held three previous sales despite an outcry from parts of the industry. The first, which took place live in Geneva on May 8, included 96 items and brought in $155.6 million, a record for a single collection. Christie’s offered 152 lots on May 10, garnering $42.4 million, while an online sale between May 3 and 15 fetched $4.2 million. The final sale was to have featured 300 pieces.
Although Christie’s donated a “significant portion” of its commission to charity, the gesture did not satisfy many in the industry, who felt the company should not have hosted the sales. The opposition included the World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB), which wrote a letter to the auction house calling the sale “appalling” and asking for assurances that if Christie’s were to proceed, it would expect a major portion of the proceeds to go to Holocaust-related charities. However, many of those organizations, including the Yad Vashem Holocaust memorial, refused the donations.
“The sale of the Heidi Horten jewelry collection has provoked intense scrutiny, and the reaction to it has deeply affected us and many others, and we will continue to reflect on it,” Peers added.
One of the world’s most popular types of rough diamonds has plunged into a pricing free fall, as an increasing number of Americans choose engagement rings made from lab-grown stones instead.
Diamond demand across the board has weakened after the pandemic, as consumers splash out again on travel and experiences, while economic headwinds eat into luxury spending. However, the kinds of stones that go into the cheaper one- or two-carat solitaire bridal rings popular in the US have experienced far sharper price drops than the rest of the market.
The reason, according to industry insiders, is soaring demand for lab-grown stones. The synthetic diamond industry has paid special attention to this category, where consumers are especially price-sensitive, and the efforts are now paying off in the world’s biggest diamond buyer.
The shift doesn’t mean engagement rings are about to go on deep discount — the impact is limited to the rough-diamond market, an opaque world of miners, merchants and tradespeople that is several steps removed from the price tags in a jewelry store.
However, the scale and speed of the pricing collapse of one of the diamond industry’s most important products has left the market reeling. Now, the question is whether the plunging demand for natural diamonds in this category represents a permanent change, and — crucially — if the inroads made by lab-grown gems will eventually spread to the more expensive diamonds that are typically dominated by Asian buying.
Industry leader De Beers insists the current weakness is a natural downswing in demand, after stuck-at-home shoppers sent prices soaring during the pandemic, with cheaper engagement rings having been particularly vulnerable. The company concedes that there has been some penetration into the category from synthetic stones, but doesn’t see it as a structural shift.
“There has been a little bit of cannibalization. That has happened, I don’t think we should deny that,” said Paul Rowley, who heads De Beers’ diamond trading business. “We see the real issue as a macroeconomic issue.”
Lab-grown diamonds — physically identical stones that can be made in a matter of weeks in a microwave chamber — have long been seen as an existential threat to the natural mining industry, with proponents saying they can offer a cheaper alternative without many of the environmental or social downsides sometimes attached to mined diamonds.
For much of the last decade, the risk remained unrealized, with synthetics eating away at cheaper gift-giving segments but making limited headway otherwise. That is now changing, with lab-grown products starting to take a much bigger bite of the crucial US bridal market.
De Beers has responded to weakening demand by aggressively cutting prices for the category known as “select makeables” — rough diamonds between 2 and 4 carats that can be cut into stones about half that size when polished, yielding centrepiece diamonds for bridal rings that are high quality, but not flawless.
De Beers has cut prices in the category by more than 40% in the past year, including one cut of more than 15% in July, according to people familiar with the matter.
The one-time monopoly still wields considerable power in the rough diamond market, selling its gems through 10 sales each year in which the buyers — known as sightholders — generally have to accept the price and the quantities offered.
Price drop De Beers typically reserves aggressive cuts as a last resort, and the scale of the recent price falls for a benchmark product is unprecedented outside of a speculative bubble crash, traders said.
In June 2022, De Beers was charging about $1,400 a carat for the select makeable diamonds. By July this year, that had dropped to about $850 a carat. And there may be more room to fall: the diamonds are still 10% more expensive than in the “secondary” market, where traders and manufacturers sell among themselves.
De Beers declined to comment on its diamond pricing.
One of the clearest signs of the traction being made by lab-grown diamonds is their share of diamond exports from India, where about 90% of global supply is cut and polished. Lab-grown accounted for about 9% of diamond exports from the country in June, compared with about 1% five years ago. Given the steep discount that they sell for, that means about 25% to 35% of volume is now lab-grown, according to Liberum Capital Markets.
The impact on De Beers was clear in the first half. The Anglo American Plc’s unit’s first half profits plunged more than 60% to just $347 million, with its average selling price falling from $213 per carat to $163 per carat. Its August sale was the smallest of the year so far.
De Beers has responded by giving its buyers additional flexibility. It’s allowed them to defer contracted purchases for the rest of the year of up to 50% of the diamonds bigger than 1 carat, according to people familiar with the situation.
While lab-grown diamonds are currently hurting demand for natural stones, the upstart industry is also suffering. The price of synthetic diamonds has plunged even more steeply than that of natural stones, and are selling at a bigger discount than ever before.
About five years ago, lab-grown gems sold at about a 20% discount to natural diamonds, but that has now blown out to around 80% as the retailers push them at increasingly lower prices and the cost of making them falls. The price of polished stones in the wholesale market has fallen by more than half this year alone.
De Beers started selling its own lab-grown diamonds in 2018 at a steep discount to the going price, in an attempt to differentiate between the two categories. The company expects lab-grown prices to continue to tumble, in what it sees as a tsunami of more supply coming onto the market, Rowley said. That should create an even bigger delta in prices between natural diamonds and lab-grown, helping differentiate the two products, he said.
“With the increase in supply we’ll see prices fall through the price point and reach a level where, long term, it does not compete with bridal because it comes too cheap,” said Rowley. “Ultimately they are different products and the finite and rarity of natural diamonds is a different proposition.”
Pandora is expanding its lab-grown diamond offerings, showing off its latest jewels in a new star-studded campaign.
The “Diamonds for All” campaign will highlight some familiar faces, including model and actress Pamela Anderson.
“I like the fact that these are lab-grown diamonds, and knowing the jewelry is crafted from recycled silver and gold makes me feel good about wearing it. It is actually the more radical, kind of glamorous move,” said Anderson.
She’s joined in the campaign by American Sign Language performer Justina Miles, model and Vogue Creative Director-at-Large Grace Coddington, actress Amita Suman, model Precious Lee, model Sherry Shi, and musical artist and dancer Vinson Fraley.
The campaign was shot in New York City by photographer Mario Sorren and directed by Gordon von Steiner.
It celebrates “the breaking of conventions and tells a new diamond story,” said Pandora.
“From ‘diamonds are a girl’s best friend’ to ‘diamonds are everyone’s best friend.’ From ‘diamonds on ring fingers’ to ‘diamonds on every finger.’”
Grace Coddington and cat in Pandora campaign Model and Vogue Creative Director-at-Large Grace Coddington, a noted cat enthusiast, poses for Pandora’s new campaign with a furry friend.
Mary Carmen Gasco-Buisson, chief marketing officer at Pandora, said the new campaign will help consumers reimagine diamond traditions.
“Our diamonds are not for the few, for a once-in-a-lifetime occasion, or only for giving. They represent personal meaning that each of us can create,” said Gasco-Buisson.
Pandora first announced its move into the lab-grown diamond jewelry market in May 2021, stating it would no longer be using natural diamonds—a stone it, notably, used in only a small percentage of its jewelry—amid its push for “sustainably created” and affordable products.
It introduced its “Pandora Brilliance” collection to the United Kingdom before rolling out to new markets, landing in the United States and Canada last August.
Previously called “Diamonds by Pandora,” the company’s lab-grown diamond line is now called “Pandora Lab-Grown Diamonds.”
Within the U.S. jewelry trade, there is a polarizing debate around lab-grown diamonds, but Pandora has appeared confident in its move into the market.
Luciano Rodembusch, president of Pandora North America, shared his insights on Pandora’s lab-grown diamond collections and the market at large in an email interview with National Jeweler.
“We shifted from mined diamonds to exclusively lab-grown diamonds to lessen the impact on the planet and to deviate from unfair working practices in the mining industry,” he said.
“Because of this shift, we’ve been able to create a collection of diamonds that are more sustainable and more affordable for every consumer.”
Pandora has framed its move into lab-grown diamonds as a push for sustainability, a claim that some in the jewelry industry have taken issue with, but the company has remained firm on its stance.
“We are committed to making lab-grown diamonds more sustainable. Our diamonds are grown, cut and polished using renewable energy at our facilities and have a carbon footprint of only 9.17 kg CO2e per cut and polished carat,” said Rodembusch.
“Consumers will continue to purchase jewelry, and it is our responsibility to reduce our emissions, like with our lab-grown diamond collections, so we can reduce our impact on the planet.”
As noted on the company’s website, the diamonds Pandora uses in its jewelry are grown in the United States. It has been reported that they are grown at De Beers’ Lightbox factory in Gresham, Oregon, though officials from both companies have declined to comment on this claim.
Rodembusch noted Pandora’s second-quarter earnings surpassed analysts’ estimates, which he viewed as a positive signal for lab-grown diamond demand.
“By democratizing diamonds, we created an affordable jewelry line that brings quality, sustainable lab-grown diamonds to everyone, which is what we strive to do as a brand,” he said.
Petra Diamonds’ rough prices decreased at its first tender of the fiscal year as the anticipated pickup in demand proved disappointing.
The August trading session brought in $79.3 million from the sale of 696,194 carats, with like-for-like prices — those for similar categories of diamonds — falling 4.3% compared with May, the miner reported Friday.
The slowdown was primarily due to flagging prices for rough between 2 and 10.8 carats, which dropped 14% on a like-for-like basis. Prices for diamonds under 2 carats rose 1% to 2%, Petra noted.
While the tender saw strong attendance, “demand was more muted than we had expected in exiting the summer holiday period,” explained Petra CEO Richard Duffy. “The expected seasonal improvement in demand was evident for higher-quality 10.8-carat-plus stones, with solid prices realized. [However,] this was offset by slower demand for 2- to 10-carat size ranges.”
The miner did not sell any exceptional stones during the tender, it reported, though it did garner $1.7 million for a 20.9-carat yellow diamond from its Cullinan deposit.
Overall sales value rose 88% from May’s $42.1 million but slid 23% from the equivalent tender a year earlier, which took place in September 2022. Sales volume was up 49% from May and 34% year on year, while the average price jumped to $114 per carat from the previous tender’s $90.
The August tender did not include any output from the Williamson mine; Petra plans to sell material from that site at its September sale. However, the latest round did feature all the rough Petra had chosen to defer in June, when it postponed its sixth tender due to the sluggish market.
The August sale also contained 75,880 carats of goods that Petra had withdrawn from the May tender due to low bids. Prices for those goods were largely unchanged from May’s offers, but Petra expects demand to rise in the coming months.
“As we enter a seasonally stronger period [that] includes Diwali, Thanksgiving, Christmas and the Chinese New Year, we remain optimistic that jewelry demand will improve and provide some support to prices over the balance of the calendar year,” Duffy said.
Main image: Ore processing at the Williamson mine.
A US advertising watchdog has called on e-tailer Agape Diamonds to make the origins of its synthetic and simulated stones clearer.
The recommendation came from the National Advertising Division (NAD) of BBB National Programs — a nonprofit that helps businesses self-regulate — after the National Diamond Council (NDC) challenged Agape’s claims, the NAD reported last week.
Agape’s promotional material, including how it was presenting products for sale on its website, did not clearly and conspicuously disclose the origins of its stones, the NDC had argued, according to the NAD. As such, the council claimed, the online retailer and lab-grown manufacturer was violating the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) guidelines on jewelry marketing.
Agape changed its advertising across its website and social media in response to the NDC’s complaint, and the NAD declared the company’s modified disclosures effective and consistent with the FTC rules. However, other online advertising lacked “clear and conspicuous” origin disclosure, the watchdog said.
Race to the Bottom? Retailers’ Lab-Grown Doubts
The NAD urged Agape to rectify this by including words such as “simulated” or “lab-grown” immediately before the words “diamond” or “stone,” with “equal conspicuousness so as to clearly disclose the nature and origin of the product and the fact that it is not a mined gemstone.”
Agape and the NDC were unavailable for comment on Sunday. In its advertiser statement to the NAD, Agape said it was “committed to accurate and truthful advertising, as recommended by NAD and as codified in the federal regulations and enforced by the FTC.”
Indian jewelry giant Titan Company will up its stake in e-tailer CaratLane to 98%, acquiring the share it didn’t already own for INR 46.21 billion ($557.2 million).
Titan, which already owns 71% of the online jewelry retailer, plans to buy an additional 27% in an all-cash deal, it said Saturday in a notice to the Bombay Stock Exchange (BSE). It intends to complete the buyout by October 31, subject to requisite approvals.
The deal values CaratLane at INR 170.01 billion ($2.05 billion), according to Rapaport calculations.
Incorporated in 2007, CaratLane operates in India and in the US through a local subsidiary. Titan first took a stake in the business in 2016.
Lucara Diamond Corp. has recovered a 692.3-carat diamond from its Karowe mine in Botswana, the second massive rough from the deposit this month.
The white, type IIa stone came from the EM/PK(S) unit in the south lobe, known for its large, high-quality rough, Lucara said Monday. The miner found the diamond via its XRT unit, which uses X-ray technology to identify huge stones in large pieces of ore before they get broken up.
The new discovery is the fourth diamond over 300 carats that Lucara has unearthed so far this year, including one earlier this month: a high-quality white, type IIa rough weighing 1,080.1 carats, which the miner announced on August 8.
In addition, “this stone is the 20th diamond larger than 100 carats recovered during 2023 at Karowe,” said Lucara CEO William Lamb. “The recovery of large diamonds from the EM/PK(S) lithology of the south lobe strongly supports our expectations for the underground project.”
Lamb, who replaced Eira Thomas as CEO earlier this month, will lead the continued development of Karowe’s underground expansion. The miner invested $683 million in the project, which it believes will extend the mine’s life until at least 2040, 15 years beyond the original 2025 closure date.
In its most recent results, Lucara announced a 21% drop in its second-quarter revenue to $41.1 million amid a slowdown in market demand. Profit slid 60% to $5 million.
