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Showing posts with label Buying Jewellery. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Buying Jewellery. Show all posts
Jewellery is meant to be worn, enjoyed and treasured. But for some people, wearing a ring, necklace, bracelet or pair of earrings can result in redness, itching, irritation or even a rash.
When this happens, many people immediately assume they are allergic to gold, silver or another precious metal. That is not always the case.
In many instances, the reaction may be caused by another metal contained within the jewellery alloy particularly nickel, and in some circumstances zinc or other alloying metals.
Precious Metals Are Rarely Used Completely Pure
Most jewellery is manufactured from alloys rather than pure precious metals.
Pure gold, for example, is extremely soft and is generally mixed with other metals to create an alloy that is harder, more durable and suitable for everyday wear. The same principle applies to many other precious metals.
The metals added to an alloy can affect its:
Hardness and durability
Colour
Strength
Manufacturing characteristics
Weight
Cost
This is where understanding exactly what is in your jewellery becomes important.
Nickel: One of the More Common Causes
Nickel is well known as a cause of allergic contact dermatitis.
It has historically been used in jewellery alloys because it can provide hardness, strength and particular colour characteristics. White gold is one example where alloy composition is particularly important, although modern jewellery manufacturers have a number of nickel-free alternatives.
A person who is sensitive to nickel may develop irritation where the jewellery contacts the skin. This can include redness, itching, dryness, swelling or a rash.
The reaction does not necessarily mean that the jewellery itself is poorly made. It may simply mean that the wearer is sensitive to one of the metals contained in the alloy.
What About Zinc?
Zinc can also be used as an alloying metal in jewellery manufacturing. It can assist with casting and manufacturing characteristics and may form part of certain lower-cost alloys.
It is important, however, not to automatically assume that zinc is responsible for every jewellery reaction. Nickel sensitivity is much more commonly recognised as a cause of allergic contact dermatitis, while irritation can also have other causes.
This is why identifying the actual composition of the jewellery can be valuable.
Is It Possible to Be Allergic to Gold?
Yes, although reactions specifically to gold are less common than nickel allergy.
Some people can develop a sensitivity to gold itself or to particular gold compounds, while others may actually be reacting to one of the other metals present in the alloy.
For example, two pieces of jewellery can both be described as 18-carat gold, yet have different alloy compositions depending on the manufacturer and the metals used to create the final colour and properties.
This is particularly relevant when comparing yellow, white and rose gold.
Don’t Assume the Jewellery Is the Problem
A reaction can also be caused by factors other than the metal.
Moisture, soap, cosmetics, perspiration, dirt trapped underneath a ring and prolonged contact with the skin can all contribute to irritation. In some cases, what appears to be a metal allergy may actually be contact irritation from something else.
If you repeatedly experience a reaction when wearing a particular piece of jewellery, it is worth discussing it with a medical professional or dermatologist rather than simply guessing which metal is responsible.
Tell Your Jeweller Before You Buy
This is one of the most important pieces of advice for anyone who has previously experienced a reaction to jewellery:
Tell your jeweller before the jewellery is made.
If you know that you have a nickel sensitivity, for example, make sure the jeweller knows before they recommend an alloy or manufacture a ring, earrings or other piece specifically for you.
The same applies if you have previously reacted to a particular type of gold, white gold or other jewellery.
Your jeweller can then discuss alternative materials and alloys that may be more appropriate.
Why This Can Save You Money
A custom piece of jewellery can represent a significant investment.
Imagine ordering a beautiful ring, having it manufactured and paying for the finished piece only to discover that you cannot comfortably wear it because your skin reacts to the alloy.
A remake may be possible, but it can involve additional manufacturing costs, time and inconvenience.
A simple conversation before the jewellery is made can potentially prevent an expensive problem later.
Ask What Is Actually in the Alloy
Don’t be afraid to ask questions.
If you have sensitive skin or have previously experienced a reaction, ask your jeweller:
What metals are contained in the alloy?
Is the alloy nickel-free?
What karat or fineness is the precious metal?
Is the jewellery plated, and if so, with what?
What will happen if the plating wears through?
Is there an alternative alloy available?
A reputable jeweller should be able to explain the materials being used and discuss suitable alternatives.
Jewellery Should Be Beautiful and Comfortable
Buying jewellery is about much more than appearance. The metal, alloy, construction and intended use all matter.
If you have experienced an allergic reaction in the past, don’t keep it a secret from your jeweller. Tell them before you purchase or commission your next piece.
At DCLA, we believe that understanding jewellery begins with understanding what you are actually buying. Whether it is a diamond, a precious metal or a finished piece of jewellery, knowledge gives you confidence.
And when it comes to jewellery that sits directly against your skin every day, knowing what is in the metal can be just as important as knowing what is on the outside.
DCLA — Know Your Diamond. Know Your Jewellery. Know What You Are Buying.
Buying a diamond is one of the most important jewellery purchases many people will ever make. Yet with thousands of diamonds available online and through jewellery stores, knowing where to buy a diamond, and who to trust, can be difficult.
Price, appearance and marketing can all influence a purchase, but there is another factor that should never be overlooked: knowledge.
At the Diamond Certification Laboratory of Australia (DCLA), decades of experience in the diamond industry have created a unique depth of knowledge, from rough diamond mining and trading, through to cutting, polishing, grading and certification.
That experience provides something a price tag alone cannot: confidence that you understand what you are buying.
Why experience matters when buying a diamond
It is easy to look at the famous 4Cs, carat, colour, clarity and cut and assume that buying a diamond is simply a matter of comparing numbers.
It isn’t.
Two diamonds with apparently similar specifications can look very different and can have significantly different values. Small variations in colour, clarity, proportions, fluorescence, transparency and cut can influence both appearance and price. DCLA notes that even small changes in the characteristics of a diamond can have a substantial effect on value.
This is where real diamond experience matters.
Someone who has spent decades examining diamonds doesn’t simply read a certificate. They understand how a diamond behaves, how it was cut, how its proportions affect light performance and how the individual characteristics of the stone influence its desirability.
From the mine to the polished diamond
The DCLA story is unusual because its expertise extends far beyond laboratory grading.
The Cohen family’s involvement in the diamond industry stretches back to Johannesburg in the 1970s. Bruce Cohen began his diamond career under the guidance of his father, David Cohen. Michael Cohen trained as a polisher, cleaver and marker with a major De Beers sightholder before establishing diamond offices and cutting operations in southern Africa. Roy Cohen subsequently became involved in rough diamond trading and mining interests.
That means the knowledge behind DCLA has been developed across virtually every stage of a diamond’s journey.
This provides a perspective that is difficult to replicate.
The advantage of buying with an independent laboratory behind you
One of the most important questions a diamond buyer should ask is:
Who graded the diamond?
A grading report should come from an independent laboratory rather than simply being an in-house document produced by the person selling the diamond.
DCLA specifically warns consumers to be cautious about reports produced by retailers or merchants who have a financial interest in the stone. Independent grading provides an additional layer of confidence because the laboratory is assessing the diamond rather than selling it.
DCLA is an internationally accredited diamond grading laboratory in Australia, with grading conducted in Sydney by qualified gemmologists according to IDC and CIBJO standards.
Don’t just buy the certificate, understand the diamond
Buying a diamond is one of the most important jewellery purchases
A certificate is important, but the real value comes from understanding what the certificate means.
A DCLA Diamond Grading Report records characteristics including:
Carat weight
Colour
Clarity
Cut
Symmetry and polish
Measurements and proportions
Fluorescence
Transparency
Whether the diamond is natural or laboratory-grown
Treatments or enhancements
Unique identifying information
But experienced diamond professionals can take that information further.
They can help explain why one diamond may offer better visual performance than another, whether you are paying for characteristics that you can actually see, and where your money may be better spent.
The best diamond isn’t necessarily the most expensive
One of the biggest mistakes a buyer can make is believing that the highest grades automatically represent the best purchase.
The objective should be to find the right diamond for your budget and your priorities.
Perhaps you want maximum size.
Perhaps brilliance is your priority.
Perhaps you want exceptional colour.
Perhaps you want a diamond with a particular shape.
Or perhaps you want to maximise beauty while avoiding paying a premium for characteristics that make little visible difference to the eye.
This is where independent advice can make a significant difference.
Rather than simply selling you a diamond, the objective should be to help you understand why one diamond represents a better choice than another.
Buying online versus buying from an expert
Online diamond retailers can offer enormous choice and make it easy to compare prices.
But a photograph and a list of specifications cannot always tell the whole story.
A diamond is a three-dimensional optical object. Its proportions, facet arrangement, inclusions and light performance all contribute to how it looks in real life.
For a significant purchase, having access to someone who can explain the diamond in understandable terms can be invaluable.
And for buyers who want the ultimate level of confidence, an independent laboratory provides another important safeguard.
Australian consumer organisation CHOICE similarly recommends shopping around and obtaining an independent grading certificate for significant diamond purchases.
Confidence is more than a good price
The cheapest diamond is not necessarily the best diamond.
The best diamond is the one you understand, are confident in, and believe represents the right combination of beauty, quality and value for your circumstances.
This is why DCLA believes diamond buying should be an educational experience rather than simply a sales transaction.
With decades of experience extending from rough diamonds and polishing to modern scientific grading, DCLA brings together old-fashioned diamond knowledge and modern laboratory technology.
Every diamond certified by DCLA is examined in its Sydney laboratory, combining hands-on expertise with advanced instrumentation.
So, where is the best place to buy a diamond in Australia?
There are many places Australians can purchase diamonds, from online retailers and traditional jewellers to specialist diamond dealers.
But if you are looking for something more than a transaction, look for experience, independence, transparency and expertise.
That is what makes the DCLA approach different.
You are not simply buying a stone.
You are making a significant financial and emotional decision with the benefit of people who have spent decades working with diamonds at almost every level of the industry.
From the rough diamond to the finished gem, that experience matters.
And when you are spending thousands, or tens of thousands, of dollars on a diamond, having the right knowledge behind your decision can be worth far more than simply finding the lowest advertised price.
Buy with knowledge. Buy with confidence. Buy a diamond you understand.
DCLA is an independent diamond grading and certification laboratory. A grading report describes the characteristics of a diamond and is not, by itself, a valuation or statement of market price.
Jewellery has always been more than an accessory. The right gemstone, cut or design can become part of a person’s identity and when that person is a globally recognised film star, athlete, musician or public figure, the jewellery can become famous in its own right.
For jewellery brands, this presents an extraordinary opportunity.
A celebrity does not necessarily need to create an entire jewellery collection. Sometimes, one distinctive gemstone, one unusual cut, one ring shape or one recognisable design can be enough to create a lasting association between the individual and the jewel.
The history of jewellery is filled with examples of this phenomenon.
Elizabeth Taylor and the Power of the Emerald
Perhaps the greatest example is Hollywood icon Elizabeth Taylor.
Taylor’s extraordinary relationship with jewellery, particularly Bulgari, helped transform individual jewels into cultural icons. During the filming of Cleopatra in Rome, Taylor became a passionate Bulgari client, and her relationship with Richard Burton became intertwined with some of the most famous jewels of the twentieth century. Bulgari itself describes Taylor as one of its most important celebrity admirers.
Her emerald and diamond jewels became particularly associated with her image.
One famous example was an emerald ring Richard Burton gave Taylor while they were filming Cleopatra. The ring featured an octagonal step-cut Colombian emerald and later became part of the celebrated Taylor jewellery collection.
Taylor demonstrated something fundamental about jewellery marketing:
People don’t always remember the technical specifications first. They remember the story.
Elizabeth Taylor + Richard Burton + Cleopatra + Bulgari + emeralds became a powerful combination of romance, Hollywood, wealth and glamour.
Princess Diana and the Sapphire Revolution
Another extraordinary example is Princess Diana’s sapphire engagement ring.
When Diana appeared publicly with her oval blue sapphire surrounded by diamonds in 1981, the jewellery world changed. The ring became one of the most recognisable engagement rings in the world and generated enormous demand for similar sapphire-and-diamond designs.
Today, the ring is worn by Catherine, Princess of Wales, giving the design another generation of visibility.
The lesson for jewellery brands is profound:
A celebrity or public figure can take an existing gemstone and give it a new cultural meaning.
Sapphire did not become valuable because of Diana. It was already a precious gemstone.
But Diana helped make a particular shape, colour combination and design language extraordinarily recognisable.
The Shape Can Become the Brand
The opportunity does not have to be limited to a gemstone.
A jewellery brand could potentially build an identity around:
An oval sapphire
A pear-shaped diamond
An emerald-cut diamond
A cushion-cut ruby
A particular halo design
A distinctive three-stone ring
A recognisable tennis bracelet
A signature necklace
A particular combination of gemstone colours
A unique setting or silhouette
The objective is to create visual recognition.
Imagine, for example, a famous athlete consistently wearing a distinctive emerald-cut diamond ring. Over time, fans begin associating that shape with the athlete.
The brand can then develop a collection around the same design language available in diamonds, sapphires, rubies and emeralds at different price points.
The celebrity becomes the storyteller.
The jewellery becomes the symbol.
Sport Can Be Just as Powerful as Hollywood
The opportunity extends well beyond actors.
Elite sportspeople have enormous global audiences and, increasingly, their personal style has become part of their public identity.
A footballer, basketball player, tennis champion or Formula 1 driver could collaborate with a jewellery house to develop a signature piece.
For example, a sports personality might choose a particular gemstone representing their nationality, birth month, team colours or personal journey.
An Australian sporting personality could build a collection around Australian sapphires.
A tennis champion might create a collection based around a distinctive tennis-bracelet concept.
A footballer might develop a diamond motif incorporating a number, symbol or shape associated with their career.
The commercial opportunity comes from turning personal identity into a repeatable jewellery design.
Couples Can Create Jewellery Stories
Celebrity couples offer another powerful opportunity.
A famous couple can make a particular jewellery style part of their shared identity an engagement ring, matching bracelets, eternity rings or a signature gemstone.
The story becomes emotional rather than purely commercial:
“This is the stone we chose.”
That story can then be translated into a jewellery collection.
The same principle was demonstrated spectacularly by Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton. Their relationship was repeatedly associated with extraordinary jewellery gifts, including emeralds, diamonds, sapphires and other important gemstones. Taylor’s collection eventually became so famous that her 2011 auction at Christie’s set records for a jewellery collection.
The Modern Influencer Creates a Different Opportunity
Social media has fundamentally changed this model.
A traditional celebrity might influence millions of people through a film, television appearance or red-carpet event.
An influencer can potentially influence an audience every day.
That creates an opportunity to introduce a jewellery design repeatedly:
Wear it. Photograph it. Explain it. Tell the story. Repeat it.
Over time, the audience becomes familiar with the design.
This repetition is important. A jewellery icon is rarely created from one photograph.
The Princess Diana sapphire ring is a perfect example. Its influence has continued for decades because the design has repeatedly appeared in public life and has been passed from Diana to Kate.
The DCLA Perspective: Why Identification Matters
For the jewellery industry, however, celebrity influence must be matched by gemmological credibility.
If a celebrity launches a “signature emerald”, for example, consumers need to know exactly what they are buying.
Is it a natural emerald?
Is it treated?
Where did it originate?
What is the colour and clarity?
How has it been graded?
Likewise, if a celebrity promotes a particular diamond shape or quality, the consumer should be able to distinguish between marketing language and objective gemmological information.
This is where an independent laboratory such as the Diamond Certification Laboratory of Australia (DCLA) can play an important role.
A celebrity may create the desire.
A jewellery designer may create the product.
But independent gemmological assessment can provide the confidence behind the product.
From Celebrity to Collectible
The ultimate goal is to create something that survives the celebrity.
That is the difference between a celebrity endorsement and a genuine jewellery legacy.
The strongest examples become part of popular culture.
Elizabeth Taylor helped make emerald jewellery synonymous with Hollywood glamour.
Princess Diana helped make the oval sapphire engagement ring an enduring symbol of romance.
Kate Middleton subsequently gave that same design another generation of visibility.
The next generation of jewellery icons could come from an actor, athlete, musician, entrepreneur, influencer or even a celebrity couple.
When buying or commissioning fine jewellery, much of the attention naturally goes to the diamond or gemstone, the design and the craftsmanship. Yet one of the most important decisions is often overlooked: which precious metal should the jewellery be made from?
The choice of metal affects far more than colour and price. It influences durability, hardness, scratch resistance, maintenance, weight, wear characteristics, setting security and how the piece will look after years of use.
There is no single precious metal that is best for every piece of jewellery. The correct choice depends on what the jewellery is, how it will be worn and what demands will be placed upon it.
Pure gold is exceptionally soft. For this reason, virtually all gold jewellery is alloyed with other metals to increase its hardness, strength and workability.
Gold purity is measured in carats:
Gold
Pure Gold Content
General Characteristics
9ct
37.5%
Harder, economical, less rich in colour
14ct
58.3–58.5%
Excellent balance of durability and gold content
18ct
75.0%
Rich colour, high gold content, softer
22ct
91.7%
Very rich colour, considerably softer
24ct
99.9%+
Extremely pure but generally too soft for most jewellery
The World Gold Council notes that alloying gold with other metals increases its durability and can also alter its colour.
This is an important point: a higher carat does not automatically mean a stronger piece of jewellery.
In fact, increasing the gold content generally makes the alloy softer, although the exact hardness depends on the particular alloy and manufacturing process.
9ct Gold — Practical and Affordable
9ct gold contains 37.5% pure gold, with the balance made up of alloy metals.
Its relatively high alloy content can make it harder than higher-carat gold alloys, and it is widely used for jewellery where price and everyday wear are important considerations.
Advantages
Lower material cost
Good resistance to everyday scratching
Available in yellow, white and rose gold
Suitable for many bracelets, earrings, pendants and everyday jewellery
Practical for consumers looking for a lower entry price
Disadvantages
Contains considerably less gold than 18ct or 22ct
Colour can be less rich and saturated
Alloy composition can be important for people with metal sensitivities
Some 9ct alloys can be relatively brittle rather than simply being “stronger”
This last point is important. Hardness and toughness are not the same thing.
A very hard alloy can resist scratching but may be less forgiving when subjected to bending or impact. Jewellery designers therefore need to consider the specific alloy, not simply the carat stamp.
14ct Gold — The Practical Sweet Spot
14ct gold contains approximately 58.3–58.5% pure gold.
For jewellery that is going to receive significant daily wear, 14ct can provide an excellent balance between gold content, durability, appearance and cost.
It is generally harder than 18ct gold, making it particularly attractive for jewellery that experiences continual movement, friction and contact with other objects.
Advantages
Good hardness and wear resistance
More gold content than 9ct
Generally more durable than 18ct
Excellent for everyday jewellery
Particularly useful for bracelets, rings and other pieces exposed to continual wear
Lower cost than 18ct for the same volume of metal
Disadvantages
Less rich gold colour than 18ct yellow gold
Contains more alloy metals
Exact performance depends on the alloy formulation and manufacturing technique
For many jewellery applications, 14ct represents an excellent engineering compromise.
18ct Gold — Luxury, Richness and High Gold Content
18ct gold contains 75% pure gold and 25% alloy metals.
It is a traditional choice for fine jewellery because of its rich colour, high gold content and luxurious appearance.
18ct yellow gold has a noticeably deeper and warmer colour than lower-carat gold, while 18ct rose gold has a softer, more refined pink tone depending on its alloy composition.
Advantages
75% pure gold
Rich, luxurious colour
High intrinsic precious-metal content
Excellent for fine and high-value jewellery
Traditionally associated with premium jewellery
Often preferred for heirloom pieces and important jewellery
Disadvantages
Softer than many 14ct alloys
More susceptible to scratches and dents
Can show signs of everyday wear more quickly
May require more care where continual friction occurs
This does not mean that 18ct gold is unsuitable for everyday jewellery. Far from it.
Rather, the designer needs to understand the application.
An 18ct gold engagement ring can be an excellent choice. But an 18ct gold bracelet consisting of hundreds of small articulated components may experience very different stresses from a simple ring.
22ct Gold — Beautiful but Soft
22ct gold contains approximately 91.7% pure gold.
It has a distinctive, highly saturated yellow colour that is particularly prized in some jewellery markets.
The problem is that the higher gold content also means there is less alloy available to increase hardness and strength.
Advantages
Very high gold content
Exceptional rich yellow colour
High intrinsic precious-metal value
Highly desirable for traditional and cultural jewellery
Disadvantages
Relatively soft
More easily scratched and deformed
Less suitable for delicate settings exposed to constant mechanical stress
Requires greater consideration when used for everyday jewellery
22ct can be beautiful, but it is not necessarily the best choice simply because it contains more gold.
More gold does not automatically mean better jewellery.
Platinum — A Completely Different Metal
Platinum should not be thought of simply as “higher-carat white gold”.
It is a completely different precious metal.
Jewellery platinum is commonly used at around 95% purity, often referred to as Pt950. It is naturally white and does not require rhodium plating to create its characteristic appearance.
One of platinum’s major advantages is its density and wear characteristics. Platinum tends to deform and develop a patina rather than behaving like a softer gold alloy that is progressively worn away.
Advantages
Naturally white
No rhodium plating required
Very high purity
Dense and substantial
Excellent for important gemstone settings
Does not require the same replating maintenance as white gold
Often a good choice for people concerned about certain alloy sensitivities
Disadvantages
More expensive
Heavier than gold
More difficult and demanding to manufacture and repair
Develops a visible patina with wear
Can scratch, although the metal behaves differently from gold
The development of a platinum patina is not necessarily a defect. Many owners actually appreciate it because it records the history of the jewellery.
18ct White Gold vs Platinum
This is one of the most common decisions when purchasing diamond jewellery.
At first glance, the two metals can look almost identical.
They are not.
18ct White Gold
18ct white gold contains 75% gold combined with whitening alloy metals. It is normally finished with rhodium plating to produce a bright, highly reflective white surface. The World Gold Council explains that rhodium plating is commonly used on white gold to create a brighter and harder surface.
The disadvantage is that rhodium is a surface coating.
Over time, friction can wear the rhodium away, particularly on rings and areas that receive constant contact. The underlying white-gold alloy can then become visible, and the jewellery may require professional cleaning and re-rhodium plating.
Platinum
Platinum is naturally white.
There is no rhodium layer that needs to be periodically replaced.
It will still scratch and develop a patina, but the colour of the metal itself remains white.
For consumers wanting the brightest possible white finish, 18ct white gold can be extremely attractive. For those wanting a naturally white metal without rhodium maintenance, platinum has a significant advantage.
The Tennis Bracelet: A Perfect Example of Why Metal Selection Matters
The tennis bracelet is an excellent example of why the metal should be selected according to the engineering requirements of the jewellery, rather than simply its perceived prestige.
A tennis bracelet is not a static piece of jewellery.
It contains numerous articulated links, settings, joints and moving components. Every time the bracelet moves around the wrist, components can rub against one another.
The bracelet can also encounter:
clothing
desks and tables
watches
handbags
other jewellery
skin
accidental impacts
repeated flexing
Over many years, these small movements can add up to significant wear.
Why 14ct Can Be an Excellent Choice
A well-designed 14ct gold tennis bracelet can offer a very good combination of hardness, strength and durability.
Compared with many 18ct gold alloys, 14ct is harder and can be better suited to jewellery that experiences continuous mechanical wear.
This is why a 14ct tennis bracelet can, in practical terms, be a better engineering choice than an 18ct version when maximum resistance to everyday wear is the priority.
However, it would be incorrect to say that every 14ct bracelet will automatically outlast every 18ct bracelet.
The alloy formulation, construction, thickness, setting design, quality of manufacture and maintenance are all critical.
Design and engineering matter just as much as carat.
Hardness Is Not the Same as Durability
This distinction is particularly important for consumers.
Hardness generally refers to a material’s resistance to scratching or indentation.
Durability is broader.
A piece of jewellery must also withstand:
bending
impact
repeated movement
fatigue
deformation
wear at joints
wear around stone settings
A harder material is not automatically tougher in every application.
For this reason, professional jewellery manufacturers select alloys according to the intended use of the finished piece.
The Importance of Jewellery Design
The metal is only one part of the equation.
A poorly engineered piece made from platinum can perform worse than a well-engineered piece made from 14ct gold.
For example, a tennis bracelet should be assessed for:
Link thickness Thin links can wear more quickly regardless of metal.
Setting construction The way diamonds are secured is critical.
Hinge and joint design Movement places continual stress on these areas.
Clasp security A strong bracelet is of little value if the clasp is poorly designed.
Metal thickness around stones Very fine metal can wear through over time.
Manufacturing quality Precision and finishing can make a substantial difference to longevity.
This is why consumers should not judge jewellery solely by the carat stamp.
Other Precious Metals
Silver
Sterling silver is approximately 92.5% silver and is widely used because it is attractive and relatively affordable.
Its disadvantages are that it is softer than many gold alloys and can tarnish through interaction with the environment.
Silver is excellent for many earrings, pendants, fashion pieces and larger designs, but it generally requires more maintenance than gold or platinum.
Palladium
Palladium is a member of the platinum group of metals and has been used in jewellery, including as an alloy in white gold.
It is naturally white and relatively lightweight compared with platinum.
Its use in jewellery varies by market and application, but it remains an interesting alternative for designers looking for a naturally white precious metal.
Maintenance: What Owners Should Expect
Different metals require different maintenance.
9ct and 14ct Yellow or Rose Gold
Generally straightforward to maintain. Regular cleaning and professional inspection are recommended, particularly for jewellery containing gemstones.
18ct Yellow or Rose Gold
Also relatively straightforward to maintain, although the softer alloy can show scratches and surface marks more readily.
White Gold
Requires additional attention because the rhodium plating can wear away. Periodic professional inspection, cleaning and replating may be required depending on how frequently the piece is worn.
Platinum
Does not require rhodium plating. It will develop a patina and can be polished when the owner wants to restore a brighter finish.
There Is No “Best” Precious Metal
The most important lesson for jewellery buyers is that the highest gold content is not necessarily the best choice for every piece of jewellery.
A 22ct gold bracelet may contain far more gold than a 14ct bracelet, but the 14ct piece may be better suited to constant mechanical wear.
An 18ct gold engagement ring may be exactly the right choice for someone who values its rich colour and high gold content.
A platinum ring may be preferred by someone who wants a naturally white metal and a substantial, high-purity material.
A 14ct tennis bracelet may be the more practical choice for someone who wants a bracelet that will tolerate considerable everyday wear.
The correct question is therefore not:
“Which metal is the best?”
It is:
“Which metal is best for this piece of jewellery and the way it will be worn?”
DCLA’s View: Design the Jewellery Around Its Purpose
At DCLA, we believe that understanding precious metals is an essential part of understanding jewellery.
The choice between 9ct, 14ct, 18ct, 22ct gold and platinum should be based on a combination of:
Purity
Colour
Hardness
Toughness
Wear resistance
Design
Stone security
Frequency of wear
Maintenance requirements
Budget
Personal preference
A beautiful piece of jewellery should not only look exceptional when it leaves the jeweller’s workshop. It should be appropriate for the way it will actually be worn.
The best jewellery is where the gemstone, metal, design and craftsmanship are considered as one complete system.
Because when it comes to fine jewellery, more precious does not always mean more durable and the right metal is the one that performs best for its purpose.
This article is intended for general educational purposes. The actual performance of a jewellery alloy depends on its precise composition, manufacturing process, design, dimensions, finishing and method of wear. Consumers should consult a qualified jeweller or jewellery professional when selecting a metal for a particular application.
