Pandora has lifted its outlook for the full year as third-quarter and early fourth-quarter sales remain strong amid the implementation of a new strategy and increased tourism.
The Danish jeweler now expects sales will rise 5% to 6% on an organic basis for 2023, compared with the 2% to 5% rise it had reported earlier in the year, it said last week. The earnings before interest and taxes (EBIT) is unchanged at around 25%.
“We are very pleased with our results this quarter,” said Pandora CEO Alexander Lacik. “Our investments in the brand are attracting more consumers into our stores. We have delivered strong broad-based growth.”
Current trading at the start of the fourth quarter is “healthy,” with like-for-like growth in the high-single-digit levels, Pandora noted.
The company’s sales increased 6% to DKK 5.57 billion ($812.1 million) in the three months ending September 30. Organic growth was 11%, while sales rose 9% on a like-for-like basis. The increase in sales was a result of the jeweler’s investment in further measures through its Phoenix program, a growth and brand transformation strategy it started in 2021. An unexpected pickup in both domestic spending and tourist purchases also drove sales. In addition, the company benefited from the expansion of its lab-grown diamond line, which increased 84% on a like-for-like basis, it said.
Pandora to Woo Gen Z-ers for Revenue Boost
Online sales grew 11% year on year in the third quarter, representing 16% of total revenue for the period. Profit slipped 26% to DKK 543 million ($78.9 million).
“Initiatives under Phoenix are on track and yielding positive results,” the company added. “Additionally, the brand has demonstrated its strength amid a weak macro in 2023. Pandora therefore enters the fourth quarter, the biggest quarter of the year, with confidence.”
A pair of fancy vivid orange-yellow diamond earrings weighing 12.20 and 11.96 carats will be the top lot at Christie’s Magnificent Jewels sale on December 6 in New York. The earrings, which are named “California Sunset Diamonds,” are estimated at $7 million – $12 million.
A ring with a similar fancy vivid yellowish orange diamond weighing 5.16 carats has an estimate of $1.5 million – $2 million.
A 5.16-carat fancy vivid yellowish orange diamond has an estimate of $1.5 million – $2 million CHRISTIE’S
There haven’t been many details released yet for Christie’s final jewelry auction of 2023, but the sale will include several fancy colored diamonds, white diamonds and colored gems. As always, there will be signed jewels from important collections.
When the world’s most important diamond buyers arrived at De Beers’ offices in Botswana late last month, they were presented with a rare offer by their host: the option to buy nothing at all.
De Beers markets its rough diamonds in a series of tightly scripted sales, where handpicked buyers are normally expected to take all their contracted allocations at a price set by De Beers, or face potential penalties in the future. But with prices in free fall around the world, the one-time diamond monopoly has been forced to allow more and more flexibility, finally removing the restrictions altogether.
The concessions are the latest in a series of increasingly desperate moves across the industry to stem this year’s plunge in diamond prices, after slowing consumer demand left buyers stuck with swelling inventories. De Beers’s great rival, Russian miner Alrosa PJSC, already canceled all its sales for two months, while the market in India — the dominant cutting and trading center — had self imposed a halt on imports.
At the recent De Beers sale, its buyers, mostly from India and Antwerp, seized on the unusual flexibility, between them buying just $80 million of uncut gems. Normally De Beers would have expected to shift between $400 million and $500 million at such a sale. Outside of the early days of the pandemic — when sales were halted altogether — the company has not sold so few gems since it started making the results public in 2016.
The speed and severity of the collapse in diamond prices caught many by surprise.
The industry had been one of the great winners of the global pandemic, as stuck-at-home shoppers turned to diamond jewelery and other luxury purchases. But as economies opened up, demand quickly cooled, leaving many in the trade holding too much stock that they’d bought for too much money.
What looked like a cool down quickly turned into a plunge. The US economy, by far the industry’s most important market, wobbled under rising inflationary pressure, while key growth market China was hit by a real estate crisis that sapped consumer confidence. To make things worse, the insurgent lab-grown diamond industry started making major gains in a couple of key segments.
While there are many different diamond categories, broadly prices for wholesale polished diamonds have tumbled about 20% this year, firing a more dramatic fall in rough — or uncut — stones that have plunged as much as 35%, with the steepest declines happening though late summer and early autumn.
The industry’s response was to choke off supply in an almost unprecedented way, which finally seems to be working.
Prices at some smaller tender sales and auctions have risen between 5% and 10% in the past week as shortages of some stones start to emerge. With Indian factories set to reopen next month after prolonged Diwali closures, there is now renewed confidence that the worst has passed.
“The diamond industry has successfully taken action to stabilize things,” said Anish Aggarwal, a partner at specialist diamond advisory firm Gemdax. “That now creates a window to rebuild confidence.”
The plunge in diamond prices has coincided with weakness across the luxury space. LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton SE, the luxury titan with 75 labels ranging from Christian Dior to Bulgari, has disappointed investors this year as China’s recovery underwhelmed and demand from US consumers cooled, with the stock shedding more than $100 billion in value since mid April. On Friday, Cartier owner Richemont reported a surprise decline in earnings as revenue from luxury watches unexpectedly fell and high-end consumers reined in spending.
Yet there are specific peculiarities to the diamond industry that make it more vulnerable to slowing consumer demand. De Beers sells its gems through 10 sales each year in which the buyers — known as sightholders — generally have to accept the price and the quantities offered.
When prices are rising, as they did for much of the past two years, these buyers are often incentivized to speculate, betting that paying for unprofitable stones now will pay off if prices continue to rise. Buyers are also rewarded for making big purchases by being given bigger allotments in the future, known in the industry as “buying for position.”
These mechanisms often lead to speculative bubbles, which pop when consumer demand slows and polished diamond inventories build up.
In response, Alrosa stopped selling diamonds altogether for two months, while the Indian diamond sector introduced a halt on imports that will run to mid December. De Beers has allowed its customers to refuse all purchases without it having any impact on the future allocations for its last two sales of the year.
While the two dominant diamond miners have a long history of curtailing supply or letting buyers refuse some goods when demand weakens, the speed and scale of the combined actions is extremely unusual outside of a major crisis such as the outbreak of the pandemic.
While prices have stopped falling — and in some areas rising again — much will depend on the crucial holiday season, which spans from Thanksgiving to Chinese New Year, and how the big miners who have accumulated large stocks of unsold gems feed them back into the market.
There also remains uncertainty in the industry about how much of the slowdown is being driven by macro-economic weakness, versus a more worrying shift in consumer choices. Lab-grown diamonds have made rapid progress in some key segments of the market, while there are lingering concerns in the industry about whether Gen Z consumers look at diamonds the same way as previous generations do.
“We expect there to be some cyclical recovery in the diamond markets,” said Christopher LaFemina, an analyst at Jefferies. “But we believe there are also structural issues here that could lead to weaker than expected demand for the longer term.”
Christie’s has auctioned one of the rarest blue diamonds in the world for a staggering $44 million.
On Tuesday, the stone called the “Bleu Royal” went under the hammer as one of the highlights of the auction house’s Luxury Week sale in Geneva, far outstripping the presale estimate. It is the first time the stone has been sold at auction, having been in private hands for the past half century.
Set into a ring, the 17.61 carat, pear shaped diamond is considered the largest internally flawless vivid blue diamond to have ever come to auction, and had a presale estimate of $35 million. At the sale, it eventually realised $43.8 million, making it the most expensive jewel sold at auction this year.
Australia’s Lucapa Diamond has unearthed a 235 carat type IIa diamond from its prolific Lulo mine, the second largest recovered at the Angola operation since it opened in 2015.
The find comes barely a week after the recovery of a 208 carat diamond at the same mine, which is the third-largest ever recovered from Lulo.
The new diamond was dug up from Mining Block 550, immediately south of Mining Block 19, which Lucapa said is the area that has yielded eight precious rocks over 100 carats to date.
Not surprisingly, the mine is considered the world’s highest dollar per carat alluvial diamonds operation, in which Lucapa has a 40% interest. The rest is held by Angola’s national diamond company (Endiama) and Rosas & Petalas, a private entity.
The partners have now recovered 40 diamonds weighing more than 100 carats and four over 200 carats at Lulo. In 2016, only a year after beginning commercial production, Lulo produced the largest ever diamond recovered in Angola a 404 carat white stone later named the “4th February Stone”.
“Lulo continues to demonstrate it is a prolific producer of large diamonds. To unearth three +100 carat diamonds with two being over 200 carats in such a short space of time from different areas of the concession, makes us more determined to find the primary source, by dedicating even more resources to the exploration program,” Lucapa managing director, Nick Selby, said in the statement.
Angola is the world’s fifth diamond producer by value and sixth by volume. Its industry, which began a century ago under Portuguese colonial rule, is successfully lessening government regulations and restrictions in favour of a greater participation by private entities.
Growth at the retail division of Warren Buffett’s Berkshire Hathaway slowed in the third quarter amid a drop in customer traffic.
The unit which includes jewelry chains Borsheims, Helzberg Diamonds and Ben Bridge Jeweler saw sales increase 1% year on year to $4.85 billion, the company reported Saturday. That represented a gentler rise than the 5% gain the company noted the previous year. Pretax earnings for retail rose 4.5% to $414 million.
The decline in the number of shoppers was primarily at the conglomerate’s home furnishings businesses. However, strong sales of cars, which make up the largest portion of Berkshire’s retail division, offset that decrease.
Revenues from the manufacturing of consumer products, including jewelry maker Richline Group, grew 2% to $3.77 billion, while pretax earnings surged 78% to $483 million.
De Beers has signed an agreement with South Africa’s National Union of Mineworkers (NUM) that will avoid a threatened strike at the Venetia deposit.
The deal will provide workers at the South African mine with a wage increase of 7% in 2023, De Beers said last week. The employees will also receive a 6% hike in each subsequent year until April 30, 2028.
Workers will also be able to participate in the Employee Share Ownership Plans (ESOPs), it explained.
De Beers reached the agreement with NUM with the aid of the Commission for Conciliation, Mediation and Arbitration (CCMA) following four months of failed talks during which the NUM set out 10 initial demands. Three of those — related to shifts and overtime — were tabled, while six others have been settled. The wage debate was the only outstanding issue, but the breakdown in discussions drove NUM to plan a strike at the deposit. The agreement affects 1,500 of the mine’s workers.
“We are pleased that we reached a favorable outcome following a very tough negotiation process against the backdrop of challenging market conditions that continue to have an adverse impact on our business and the overall diamond industry,” said Moses Madondo, managing director of De Beers Managed Operations, which oversees the company’s mines in South Africa and Canada. “The agreement provides a measure of certainty to our employees for the next five years as we focus on ramping up the underground mine at Venetia, which is set to extend the life of mine to at least 2046.”
