Luxury watchmaker Jacob & Co. has unveiled a remarkable evolution in diamond design, introducing a proprietary “Angel Cut” across its latest high jewellery timepiece marking a noteworthy development in modern diamond faceting.
More than a stylistic variation, the Angel Cut represents a deliberate rethinking of how light interacts within a diamond. Developed in-house over a two-year period, the cut features 37 precisely engineered facets significantly fewer than many traditional brilliant-style cuts. Rather than maximising facet count, the design prioritises facet placement, aiming to enhance light return, internal reflection, and overall visual coherence.
At the core of the Angel Cut is a distinctive lozenge-shaped table, framed within a stepped rectangular outline with cut corners. This geometry alters the path of light through the stone, producing a continuous, fluid luminosity rather than the sharp scintillation typically associated with more fragmented facet arrangements. The result is a diamond that exhibits a broader, more even glow, with an emphasis on depth and dimensional light performance.
This innovation has been showcased in the latest iteration of the Billionaire Double Tourbillon timepiece, the first watch globally to incorporate this new cut. Previous editions in the series predominantly featured established step cuts such as emerald and Asscher, making this release a clear departure toward proprietary diamond engineering.
The watch itself is extensively set, incorporating nearly 300 diamonds with a combined weight approaching 80 carats. Of particular note is the dominance of the Angel Cut stones, which form the visual identity of the piece, complemented by supporting cuts that enhance structural and aesthetic balance.
From a gemmological perspective, the introduction of a patented cut raises important considerations. While traditional cuts have long-established grading frameworks, new proprietary cuts challenge laboratories to assess light performance, symmetry, and finish within evolving parameters. As the official CIBJO laboratory in Australia, Diamond Certification Laboratory of Australia continues to monitor such innovations closely, particularly where they influence market perception, valuation, and grading consistency.
Beyond its diamond setting, the timepiece also demonstrates advanced horological engineering, featuring a dual flying tourbillon mechanism and a highly complex hand-wound movement. However, it is the diamond innovation that remains the defining feature of this release.
The Angel Cut signals a broader trend within the high-end diamond sector: a shift toward proprietary faceting as brands seek differentiation not only through origin and size, but through the very physics of light performance.
For the diamond trade, this development reinforces an important reality innovation in cutting remains one of the most powerful drivers of both beauty and value in modern diamonds.
Source: DCLA
