At January’s LVMH Watch Week, Tiffany & Co. unveiled a striking new chapter in its modern horological journey with the launch of the Tiffany & Co. Enamel Watch—a jewellery-inspired timepiece that celebrates the enduring legacy of legendary designer Jean Schlumberger.
The presentation highlighted the renewed momentum behind Tiffany’s watchmaking since the 2021 appointments of Anthony Ledru, President and CEO, and Nicolas Beau, Vice President of Tiffany Horlogerie. Together, they bring decades of experience from esteemed maisons such as Chanel and Cartier, redefining Tiffany’s position at the intersection of high jewellery and fine watchmaking.
A Watch Rooted in Jewellery Heritage
Among the women’s timepieces presented—though, as Beau himself demonstrates, Tiffany watches transcend gender—the Enamel Watch stands apart for its direct lineage to Tiffany’s jewellery archives. The design draws inspiration from Schlumberger’s iconic Croisillon bangle, first introduced in the early 1960s and renowned for its bold use of colour, texture and visual rhythm.
Jean Schlumberger, who began designing for Tiffany & Co. in the 1950s, revolutionised modern jewellery by treating colour and surface decoration as expressive elements rather than embellishments. In 1962, he revived the rare paillonné enamel technique—a 19th-century craft involving the layering of hand-cut gold or silver leaf beneath translucent enamel. The result was jewellery that was unapologetically vibrant, designed to be stacked, seen and celebrated.
Translating Paillonné Enamel into Watchmaking
The Enamel Watch translates this expressive jewellery language directly onto the wrist. Its dial is composed of two distinct elements: a fixed, diamond-set central disc and a rotating outer enamel ring that echoes the Croisillon bangle. The signature 12 cross-stitch motifs, rendered in yellow gold, are not static hour markers. Instead, they move freely with the wearer’s motion, introducing a subtle yet playful sense of visual disruption—an approach entirely in keeping with Schlumberger’s wit and design philosophy.
There is deep historical precedent for this craftsmanship. Tiffany & Co. has produced enamelled objects since the late 19th century, including watches, chatelaines and table clocks. Paillonné enamel, however, occupies an especially rarefied position within this tradition. Nearly lost by the mid-20th century, the technique is now practised by only a handful of specialists worldwide.
For the Enamel Watch, the enamel ring alone requires approximately 55 hours of meticulous hand decoration. Gold elements are added only after the enamel work is complete, with the piece undergoing multiple firings to achieve its remarkable depth of colour and luminosity.
Cultural Significance and Modern Execution
Schlumberger’s Croisillon bangles were more than decorative objects; they were cultural symbols. Worn by icons such as Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, they helped cement Tiffany & Co.’s position at the crossroads of American elegance and European craftsmanship. This lineage is central to the Enamel Watch’s identity. Rather than borrowing decorative techniques from contemporary watchmaking, Tiffany places timekeeping firmly within a jewellery tradition that predates much of the modern luxury watch industry.
Mechanically, the watch employs a high-precision quartz movement, a deliberate and pragmatic choice aligned with the piece’s purpose. This is not a watch designed to showcase complications, but one that prioritises visual artistry through enamel, diamonds and gold. A discreet push-button time adjustment integrated into the caseback preserves the purity of the silhouette, while extensive diamond setting across the case, dial and clasp reflects Tiffany’s mastery of its core métiers.
A Distinct Voice within the LVMH Portfolio
The Tiffany & Co. Enamel Watch stands apart even among its LVMH stablemates. It is neither a technical showcase nor a volume-driven release. Instead, it serves as a reminder that Tiffany’s watchmaking heritage is rooted not in complications or manufacture status, but in the creation of objects designed to be worn, admired and remembered.
For collectors and connoisseurs alike, the Enamel Watch is a compelling expression of Tiffany & Co.’s unique ability to unite high jewellery craftsmanship with contemporary horology—while remaining unmistakably true to its historic identity.
Source: DCLA
