Tiffany Promises More Transparency For Diamonds Amid Greater Concern Over Social Responsibility

Tiffany & Co. announced Tuesday it will share the full background of its newly sourced diamond rings, an industry first as it looks to attract customers who care about quality as well as social and environmental responsibility.

ffany & Co. will share more background on its engagement rings. AFP VIA GETTY IMAGES

KEY FACTS

As demand for lab-grown diamonds is on the rise, it is likely Tiffany and other jewelers want to assuage conflict diamond and sustainability concerns which have long plagued the diamond industry. 

The 183 year old jeweler will provide a Tiffany Diamond Certificate with the diamond’s region or countries of origin as well as where it was cut and polished, graded and quality assured and set in jewelry starting this October.

Tiffany says disclosing the country where each stone is crafted and set marks a first for global luxury jewelers and follows last year’s announcement that Tiffany would become the first to provide the country or region of origin for its diamond rings.  

Twenty years ago, diamond industry leaders including Tiffany’s adopted the Kimberley Process aimed at stopping the worldwide trade of conflict diamonds, which it defines as “rough diamonds used to finance wars against governments,” but critics have said the definition is too narrow and does not factor human rights and sustainability concerns. 

In 2018, the advocacy organization Human Rights Watch evaluated whether 13 of the world’s major jewelry brands responsibly source their gems and minerals and Tiffany’s topped the list, still, the report found “none of the companies can identify all of their diamonds’ individual mines of origin.” 

Despite recent “quarantine proposals,” Tiffany’s engagement jewelry sales dropped nearly 97% year-over-year from $280.4 million to $142.5 million in the first quarter of 2020 and total net sales dropped by nearly 45% from more than $1 billion to $555.5 million.

TANGENT

Nearly 70% of millennials would consider buying an engagement ring with a lab-grown diamond, according to a 2018 report from MVI Industries, a marketing research and analytics firm for the gem, jewelry and watch industries. Lab-grown diamonds have the same chemical composition as a traditional diamond but they are usually less expensive.

Source: DCLA

Tiffany Promises More Transparency For Diamonds Amid Greater Concern Over Social Responsibility

Tiffany & Co. announced Tuesday it will share the full background of its newly sourced diamond rings, an industry first as it looks to attract customers who care about quality as well as social and environmental responsibility.

ffany & Co. will share more background on its engagement rings. AFP VIA GETTY IMAGES

KEY FACTS

As demand for lab-grown diamonds is on the rise, it is likely Tiffany and other jewelers want to assuage conflict diamond and sustainability concerns which have long plagued the diamond industry. 

The 183 year old jeweler will provide a Tiffany Diamond Certificate with the diamond’s region or countries of origin as well as where it was cut and polished, graded and quality assured and set in jewelry starting this October.

Tiffany says disclosing the country where each stone is crafted and set marks a first for global luxury jewelers and follows last year’s announcement that Tiffany would become the first to provide the country or region of origin for its diamond rings.  

Twenty years ago, diamond industry leaders including Tiffany’s adopted the Kimberley Process aimed at stopping the worldwide trade of conflict diamonds, which it defines as “rough diamonds used to finance wars against governments,” but critics have said the definition is too narrow and does not factor human rights and sustainability concerns. 

In 2018, the advocacy organization Human Rights Watch evaluated whether 13 of the world’s major jewelry brands responsibly source their gems and minerals and Tiffany’s topped the list, still, the report found “none of the companies can identify all of their diamonds’ individual mines of origin.” 

Despite recent “quarantine proposals,” Tiffany’s engagement jewelry sales dropped nearly 97% year-over-year from $280.4 million to $142.5 million in the first quarter of 2020 and total net sales dropped by nearly 45% from more than $1 billion to $555.5 million.

TANGENT

Nearly 70% of millennials would consider buying an engagement ring with a lab-grown diamond, according to a 2018 report from MVI Industries, a marketing research and analytics firm for the gem, jewelry and watch industries. Lab-grown diamonds have the same chemical composition as a traditional diamond but they are usually less expensive.

Source: DCLA

Christie’s Is Hosting its First-Ever Online Sale Dedicated to Diamonds—and Nothing Else

The top lot is a Graff pendant necklace expected to fetch at least $300,000.

Square-cut or pear-shaped, colorless or fancy-colored, loose or mounted, the rocks on the block at Jewels Online: Summer Sparkle — Christie’s first-ever online sale dedicated to diamonds — are sure to delight new buyers and seasoned collectors alike.

With 50 lots ranging from a triangular diamond eternity band (lot 36) with a low estimate of $2,000 to the top lot, a 20.21-ct. pear-shaped yellow-brown diamond mounted in a Graff necklace (lot 41) and estimated at $300,000–$400,000, the selection covers all taste, style and price preferences.

Lovers of uniquely colored diamonds are in for a treat, as the sale is rich in rare gems in rainbow hues, including pinks, oranges and greens—not to mention grays, browns and yellows. There is a showstopper of a ring centered on a square modified fancy grayish yellowish-green diamond framed by pink and white diamonds and set in platinum and rose gold (lot 37, estimated at $20,000–$30,000); a ring topped by a 7.6-ct. fancy deep brown-yellow diamond mounted, rather cheekily, on the horizontal (lot 20, $12,000–$18,000); and a sculpted Sabbadini flower brooch studded with colored and colorless diamonds (lot 24, $6,000–$8,000)

Rings, such as a 5.03-ct. pear brilliant-cut diamond set horizontally on a highly polished band of 18-karat blackened gold (lot 1, $60,000–$80,000), dominate the mostly contemporary selection, but there are plenty of earrings, too — including multiple styles by Graff as well as the British jeweler David Morris.

Clients with a passion for high design likewise will not be disappointed. Consider the pear-shaped pendant necklace designed by Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co. and suspended on a chic gold link chain (lot 47, $5,000–$7,000), or the sale’s lone bracelet, an 18k yellow gold bangle style by David Morris set with pavé yellow diamonds and marquise diamond accents (lot 33, $15,000–$20,000).

Source: DCLA

Christie’s Is Hosting its First-Ever Online Sale Dedicated to Diamonds—and Nothing Else

The top lot is a Graff pendant necklace expected to fetch at least $300,000.

Square-cut or pear-shaped, colorless or fancy-colored, loose or mounted, the rocks on the block at Jewels Online: Summer Sparkle — Christie’s first-ever online sale dedicated to diamonds — are sure to delight new buyers and seasoned collectors alike.

With 50 lots ranging from a triangular diamond eternity band (lot 36) with a low estimate of $2,000 to the top lot, a 20.21-ct. pear-shaped yellow-brown diamond mounted in a Graff necklace (lot 41) and estimated at $300,000–$400,000, the selection covers all taste, style and price preferences.

Lovers of uniquely colored diamonds are in for a treat, as the sale is rich in rare gems in rainbow hues, including pinks, oranges and greens—not to mention grays, browns and yellows. There is a showstopper of a ring centered on a square modified fancy grayish yellowish-green diamond framed by pink and white diamonds and set in platinum and rose gold (lot 37, estimated at $20,000–$30,000); a ring topped by a 7.6-ct. fancy deep brown-yellow diamond mounted, rather cheekily, on the horizontal (lot 20, $12,000–$18,000); and a sculpted Sabbadini flower brooch studded with colored and colorless diamonds (lot 24, $6,000–$8,000)

Rings, such as a 5.03-ct. pear brilliant-cut diamond set horizontally on a highly polished band of 18-karat blackened gold (lot 1, $60,000–$80,000), dominate the mostly contemporary selection, but there are plenty of earrings, too — including multiple styles by Graff as well as the British jeweler David Morris.

Clients with a passion for high design likewise will not be disappointed. Consider the pear-shaped pendant necklace designed by Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co. and suspended on a chic gold link chain (lot 47, $5,000–$7,000), or the sale’s lone bracelet, an 18k yellow gold bangle style by David Morris set with pavé yellow diamonds and marquise diamond accents (lot 33, $15,000–$20,000).

Source: DCLA

Two 20-Carat Diamond Watches From Jaeger-LeCoultre Have World’s Smallest Movement

Jaeger-LeCoultre has held the record for the world’s smallest mechanical movement – since 1929. The caliber 101, a mere 14mm long and less than 5mm wide, is still used today. It drives two new high jewelry models from the brand, the Snowdrop and the Bangle. Both are made of 18k pink gold and designed as bracelets, according to standards of high jewelry making, with integrated cases and movements. Each is set with about 20 carats of diamonds, all classified as IF-internally flawless to VVS clarity grade.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Snowdrop, with 20.9 carats of diamonds. JAEGER-LECOULTRE

The Snowdrop is set with of 904 diamonds, 204 of which are substantially sized pear-shaped gems. The remainder are classic brilliant cuts, for a total of 20.9 carats. The design was inspired by the white bell-shaped flowers of the same name that grow through the snow in the Vallee de Joux watchmaking district of Switzerland. The case is integrated with the manchette-style bracelet, with a circle of pear-shaped diamonds surrounding the dial to form a flower. Waves of diamonds repeat the petal pattern in perfect symmetry throughout the bracelet.Recommended For You

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Bangle watch, with 19.7 carats of diamonds. JAEGER-LECOULTRE

The diamonds in the center of the bracelet are set according to the griffe  or claw method, which minimizes the amount of metal surrounding the gem and allows more light to pass through from different angles. The bracelet’s structure is supported by two bands of gold with diamonds that are grain-set, a linear setting technique in which tiny beads of gold are pulled up from the surface of the metal and pushed over the stone to secure them. The gemsetting work for this piece represents 130 hours of work by Jaeger-LeCoultre artisans.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Bangle watch, with 19.7 carats of diamonds. JAEGER-LECOULTRE

The Bangle watch is a swirling, geometric Art Deco design with an interplay of symmetry and asymmetry. The bracelet is set with 996 diamonds totaling 19.7 carats, graduated in size to emphasize the sweeping, 3D curves of the design. Altogether, there are 144 griffe-set diamonds and 852 grain-set diamonds. The Bangle opens with a simple twist of each side. 

Setting diamonds into the Snowdrop watch by Jaeger-LeCoultre. JAEGER-LECOULTRE

Over the past 90 years, Jaeger-Le Coultre’s caliber 101 has been used in jewelry watches under its own name as well as in creations by other high-end brands. These rare timepieces have graced the wrists of many notable women, including Queen Elizabeth II, who wore one for her coronation in 1953. The movement has benefited over the years from many improvements in materials and machining, but its dimensions and architecture remain unchanged. The present, fourth-generation movement, caliber 101/4 has 98 components (compared with the original 78).

Source: DCLA

Two 20-Carat Diamond Watches From Jaeger-LeCoultre Have World’s Smallest Movement

Jaeger-LeCoultre has held the record for the world’s smallest mechanical movement – since 1929. The caliber 101, a mere 14mm long and less than 5mm wide, is still used today. It drives two new high jewelry models from the brand, the Snowdrop and the Bangle. Both are made of 18k pink gold and designed as bracelets, according to standards of high jewelry making, with integrated cases and movements. Each is set with about 20 carats of diamonds, all classified as IF-internally flawless to VVS clarity grade.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Snowdrop, with 20.9 carats of diamonds. JAEGER-LECOULTRE

The Snowdrop is set with of 904 diamonds, 204 of which are substantially sized pear-shaped gems. The remainder are classic brilliant cuts, for a total of 20.9 carats. The design was inspired by the white bell-shaped flowers of the same name that grow through the snow in the Vallee de Joux watchmaking district of Switzerland. The case is integrated with the manchette-style bracelet, with a circle of pear-shaped diamonds surrounding the dial to form a flower. Waves of diamonds repeat the petal pattern in perfect symmetry throughout the bracelet.Recommended For You

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Bangle watch, with 19.7 carats of diamonds. JAEGER-LECOULTRE

The diamonds in the center of the bracelet are set according to the griffe  or claw method, which minimizes the amount of metal surrounding the gem and allows more light to pass through from different angles. The bracelet’s structure is supported by two bands of gold with diamonds that are grain-set, a linear setting technique in which tiny beads of gold are pulled up from the surface of the metal and pushed over the stone to secure them. The gemsetting work for this piece represents 130 hours of work by Jaeger-LeCoultre artisans.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Bangle watch, with 19.7 carats of diamonds. JAEGER-LECOULTRE

The Bangle watch is a swirling, geometric Art Deco design with an interplay of symmetry and asymmetry. The bracelet is set with 996 diamonds totaling 19.7 carats, graduated in size to emphasize the sweeping, 3D curves of the design. Altogether, there are 144 griffe-set diamonds and 852 grain-set diamonds. The Bangle opens with a simple twist of each side. 

Setting diamonds into the Snowdrop watch by Jaeger-LeCoultre. JAEGER-LECOULTRE

Over the past 90 years, Jaeger-Le Coultre’s caliber 101 has been used in jewelry watches under its own name as well as in creations by other high-end brands. These rare timepieces have graced the wrists of many notable women, including Queen Elizabeth II, who wore one for her coronation in 1953. The movement has benefited over the years from many improvements in materials and machining, but its dimensions and architecture remain unchanged. The present, fourth-generation movement, caliber 101/4 has 98 components (compared with the original 78).

Source: DCLA

GIA to Give Full Color, Clarity Grades for Lab-Grown

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) is launching a new digital report for lab-grown diamonds that will feature specific color and clarity grades. The organization, which currently only offers loose descriptions and grade ranges for synthetics, will introduce the new reports early in the fourth quarter, it said Tuesday.

The service will incorporate the GIA’s two existing lab-grown reports. Its full reports — available for stones weighing 0.15 carats and larger — will include a 4Cs assessment and plotted diagrams showing clarity and proportions. Its lower-priced “dossiers,” which are available only for stones ranging from 0.15 to 1.99 carats, will just include the 4Cs assessment and the proportions diagram. The lab will also offer specific color and clarity grades for lab-grown colored diamonds.

The GIA began grading synthetic diamonds in 2007, and has since aligned the service more with what it offers for natural stones. Until last year, it only provided descriptions of color and clarity, such as “colorless” and “slightly included.” However, from July 1, 2019, it started indicating the range of traditional color and clarity scores to which those descriptions referred — such as “D to F” and “SI1 to SI2.”

The institute has now moved a stage further, arguing that enhanced transparency will benefit consumers and the trade.

“Natural- and laboratory-grown diamonds coexist today, accepted by both consumers and the trade,” said CEO Susan Jacques. “Ensuring consumers’ trust with GIA’s reliable, independent and authoritative grading reports for all diamonds benefits the public and the entire gem and jewelry industry. We believe the growth of laboratory-grown diamonds will expand the overall diamond market and bring in new customers.”

The reports will only be available in a digital format and will feature an updated design that distinguishes them from their natural-diamond counterparts. The California-headquartered organization will continue to laser-inscribe the stones with the words “laboratory-grown” alongside the GIA report number to further ensure differentiation from naturals. The documents will still carry a statement that the graded stone may have undergone post-growth treatment to alter its color, the GIA pointed out.

The GIA is keeping the same fee structure as for natural-diamond reports since the grading work is the same, it noted.

Source: DCLA