Two 20-Carat Diamond Watches From Jaeger-LeCoultre Have World’s Smallest Movement

Jaeger-LeCoultre has held the record for the world’s smallest mechanical movement – since 1929. The caliber 101, a mere 14mm long and less than 5mm wide, is still used today. It drives two new high jewelry models from the brand, the Snowdrop and the Bangle. Both are made of 18k pink gold and designed as bracelets, according to standards of high jewelry making, with integrated cases and movements. Each is set with about 20 carats of diamonds, all classified as IF-internally flawless to VVS clarity grade.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Snowdrop, with 20.9 carats of diamonds. JAEGER-LECOULTRE

The Snowdrop is set with of 904 diamonds, 204 of which are substantially sized pear-shaped gems. The remainder are classic brilliant cuts, for a total of 20.9 carats. The design was inspired by the white bell-shaped flowers of the same name that grow through the snow in the Vallee de Joux watchmaking district of Switzerland. The case is integrated with the manchette-style bracelet, with a circle of pear-shaped diamonds surrounding the dial to form a flower. Waves of diamonds repeat the petal pattern in perfect symmetry throughout the bracelet.Recommended For You

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Bangle watch, with 19.7 carats of diamonds. JAEGER-LECOULTRE

The diamonds in the center of the bracelet are set according to the griffe  or claw method, which minimizes the amount of metal surrounding the gem and allows more light to pass through from different angles. The bracelet’s structure is supported by two bands of gold with diamonds that are grain-set, a linear setting technique in which tiny beads of gold are pulled up from the surface of the metal and pushed over the stone to secure them. The gemsetting work for this piece represents 130 hours of work by Jaeger-LeCoultre artisans.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Bangle watch, with 19.7 carats of diamonds. JAEGER-LECOULTRE

The Bangle watch is a swirling, geometric Art Deco design with an interplay of symmetry and asymmetry. The bracelet is set with 996 diamonds totaling 19.7 carats, graduated in size to emphasize the sweeping, 3D curves of the design. Altogether, there are 144 griffe-set diamonds and 852 grain-set diamonds. The Bangle opens with a simple twist of each side. 

Setting diamonds into the Snowdrop watch by Jaeger-LeCoultre. JAEGER-LECOULTRE

Over the past 90 years, Jaeger-Le Coultre’s caliber 101 has been used in jewelry watches under its own name as well as in creations by other high-end brands. These rare timepieces have graced the wrists of many notable women, including Queen Elizabeth II, who wore one for her coronation in 1953. The movement has benefited over the years from many improvements in materials and machining, but its dimensions and architecture remain unchanged. The present, fourth-generation movement, caliber 101/4 has 98 components (compared with the original 78).

Source: DCLA

Two 20-Carat Diamond Watches From Jaeger-LeCoultre Have World’s Smallest Movement

Jaeger-LeCoultre has held the record for the world’s smallest mechanical movement – since 1929. The caliber 101, a mere 14mm long and less than 5mm wide, is still used today. It drives two new high jewelry models from the brand, the Snowdrop and the Bangle. Both are made of 18k pink gold and designed as bracelets, according to standards of high jewelry making, with integrated cases and movements. Each is set with about 20 carats of diamonds, all classified as IF-internally flawless to VVS clarity grade.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Snowdrop, with 20.9 carats of diamonds. JAEGER-LECOULTRE

The Snowdrop is set with of 904 diamonds, 204 of which are substantially sized pear-shaped gems. The remainder are classic brilliant cuts, for a total of 20.9 carats. The design was inspired by the white bell-shaped flowers of the same name that grow through the snow in the Vallee de Joux watchmaking district of Switzerland. The case is integrated with the manchette-style bracelet, with a circle of pear-shaped diamonds surrounding the dial to form a flower. Waves of diamonds repeat the petal pattern in perfect symmetry throughout the bracelet.Recommended For You

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Bangle watch, with 19.7 carats of diamonds. JAEGER-LECOULTRE

The diamonds in the center of the bracelet are set according to the griffe  or claw method, which minimizes the amount of metal surrounding the gem and allows more light to pass through from different angles. The bracelet’s structure is supported by two bands of gold with diamonds that are grain-set, a linear setting technique in which tiny beads of gold are pulled up from the surface of the metal and pushed over the stone to secure them. The gemsetting work for this piece represents 130 hours of work by Jaeger-LeCoultre artisans.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Bangle watch, with 19.7 carats of diamonds. JAEGER-LECOULTRE

The Bangle watch is a swirling, geometric Art Deco design with an interplay of symmetry and asymmetry. The bracelet is set with 996 diamonds totaling 19.7 carats, graduated in size to emphasize the sweeping, 3D curves of the design. Altogether, there are 144 griffe-set diamonds and 852 grain-set diamonds. The Bangle opens with a simple twist of each side. 

Setting diamonds into the Snowdrop watch by Jaeger-LeCoultre. JAEGER-LECOULTRE

Over the past 90 years, Jaeger-Le Coultre’s caliber 101 has been used in jewelry watches under its own name as well as in creations by other high-end brands. These rare timepieces have graced the wrists of many notable women, including Queen Elizabeth II, who wore one for her coronation in 1953. The movement has benefited over the years from many improvements in materials and machining, but its dimensions and architecture remain unchanged. The present, fourth-generation movement, caliber 101/4 has 98 components (compared with the original 78).

Source: DCLA

GIA to Give Full Color, Clarity Grades for Lab-Grown

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) is launching a new digital report for lab-grown diamonds that will feature specific color and clarity grades. The organization, which currently only offers loose descriptions and grade ranges for synthetics, will introduce the new reports early in the fourth quarter, it said Tuesday.

The service will incorporate the GIA’s two existing lab-grown reports. Its full reports — available for stones weighing 0.15 carats and larger — will include a 4Cs assessment and plotted diagrams showing clarity and proportions. Its lower-priced “dossiers,” which are available only for stones ranging from 0.15 to 1.99 carats, will just include the 4Cs assessment and the proportions diagram. The lab will also offer specific color and clarity grades for lab-grown colored diamonds.

The GIA began grading synthetic diamonds in 2007, and has since aligned the service more with what it offers for natural stones. Until last year, it only provided descriptions of color and clarity, such as “colorless” and “slightly included.” However, from July 1, 2019, it started indicating the range of traditional color and clarity scores to which those descriptions referred — such as “D to F” and “SI1 to SI2.”

The institute has now moved a stage further, arguing that enhanced transparency will benefit consumers and the trade.

“Natural- and laboratory-grown diamonds coexist today, accepted by both consumers and the trade,” said CEO Susan Jacques. “Ensuring consumers’ trust with GIA’s reliable, independent and authoritative grading reports for all diamonds benefits the public and the entire gem and jewelry industry. We believe the growth of laboratory-grown diamonds will expand the overall diamond market and bring in new customers.”

The reports will only be available in a digital format and will feature an updated design that distinguishes them from their natural-diamond counterparts. The California-headquartered organization will continue to laser-inscribe the stones with the words “laboratory-grown” alongside the GIA report number to further ensure differentiation from naturals. The documents will still carry a statement that the graded stone may have undergone post-growth treatment to alter its color, the GIA pointed out.

The GIA is keeping the same fee structure as for natural-diamond reports since the grading work is the same, it noted.

Source: DCLA

GIA to Give Full Color, Clarity Grades for Lab-Grown

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) is launching a new digital report for lab-grown diamonds that will feature specific color and clarity grades. The organization, which currently only offers loose descriptions and grade ranges for synthetics, will introduce the new reports early in the fourth quarter, it said Tuesday.

The service will incorporate the GIA’s two existing lab-grown reports. Its full reports — available for stones weighing 0.15 carats and larger — will include a 4Cs assessment and plotted diagrams showing clarity and proportions. Its lower-priced “dossiers,” which are available only for stones ranging from 0.15 to 1.99 carats, will just include the 4Cs assessment and the proportions diagram. The lab will also offer specific color and clarity grades for lab-grown colored diamonds.

The GIA began grading synthetic diamonds in 2007, and has since aligned the service more with what it offers for natural stones. Until last year, it only provided descriptions of color and clarity, such as “colorless” and “slightly included.” However, from July 1, 2019, it started indicating the range of traditional color and clarity scores to which those descriptions referred — such as “D to F” and “SI1 to SI2.”

The institute has now moved a stage further, arguing that enhanced transparency will benefit consumers and the trade.

“Natural- and laboratory-grown diamonds coexist today, accepted by both consumers and the trade,” said CEO Susan Jacques. “Ensuring consumers’ trust with GIA’s reliable, independent and authoritative grading reports for all diamonds benefits the public and the entire gem and jewelry industry. We believe the growth of laboratory-grown diamonds will expand the overall diamond market and bring in new customers.”

The reports will only be available in a digital format and will feature an updated design that distinguishes them from their natural-diamond counterparts. The California-headquartered organization will continue to laser-inscribe the stones with the words “laboratory-grown” alongside the GIA report number to further ensure differentiation from naturals. The documents will still carry a statement that the graded stone may have undergone post-growth treatment to alter its color, the GIA pointed out.

The GIA is keeping the same fee structure as for natural-diamond reports since the grading work is the same, it noted.

Source: DCLA

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If you have a loose investment diamond, CDI provides exceptional rates to cover your asset.

Call or contact CDI for a quote. CDI

A Crucial Moment for Artisanal Miners

The question of how to tackle the hardships facing informal diamond miners is as pressing today as it was when it first arose nearly 20 years ago.

It was first touted as an issue that perhaps the Kimberley Process (KP) could incorporate into its mission. But the KP was not equipped — or mandated — to meet the challenge, even if the sector represented an Achilles heel for a body tasked with facilitating the cross-border trade of responsibly sourced rough.

Instead, the Diamond Development Initiative (DDI) formed, taking a developmental approach to advancing artisanal miners. Since its inception, the DDI’s goal has been to create an infrastructure that allows these miners to sell their diamonds through legitimate means, get a fair price for them, and make a sustainable living.

Operating primarily, though not exclusively, in Sierra Leone and the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC), the organization’s work includes enabling community development; engaging with governments to formulate policies; organizing miners into cooperatives; providing professional training; and running initiatives to raise the diggers’ income, such as introducing them to new buyers.

Typically, the diggers work for less than $2 a day. With such low income, they’ve historically been incentivized to sell their diamonds on the black market, where the stones may be smuggled across the border, mixed with other goods, given a KP certificate and sold on the global market.

With an estimated 1 million to 1.5 million people working in the sector across 15 countries in Africa and three in South America, the DDI has spent much of its time registering miners in its systems and educating them on how they can benefit from working through its channels.

The organization achieved a significant milestone in April last year when it launched the Maendeleo Diamond Standards, a certification system designed to connect artisanal and small-scale diamond miners with responsible supply chains.

The standards include training on legal issues, community engagement, human rights, health and safety, ways to ensure violence-free operations, environmental management, interactions with large-scale mining, and navigating a site closure.

Clearly, given the scope of the artisanal mining sector, challenges remain. The DDI has had limited resources to pursue its goals and expand its reach.

In that context, the group announced in late July that it had merged with Resolve, a much larger non-government organization (NGO) engaged in addressing social, health and environmental issues. Being part of Resolve will give the DDI additional resources, such as administrative support for the work it wants to carry out, explained DDI founder and chairman Ian Smillie, who is joining Resolve’s board of advisers along with DDI vice chair Stephane Fischler. The group will be a division within Resolve and go by DDI@Resolve, with DDI executive director Ian Rowe at the helm.

The merger was born of the realization that the vast number of initiatives out there advocating for artisanal miners — not just in diamonds, but also in minerals such as gold, cobalt, tin, tantalum and tungsten — could lead to confusion. With NGOs, private companies, and government agencies all approaching donors and policy-makers to get support for their programs, the messaging could get muddled, Smillie explained. A pooling of resources would make for more efficient processes and a better outcome for the artisanal mining community.

Another example in July was De Beers’ GemFair program partnering with the Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit and the Mano River Union — a cross-border association comprising Sierra Leone, Liberia, Guinea and the Ivory Coast — to develop training in those four countries. Efforts like these have become especially important in the Covid-19 environment, where diamond demand has slumped to historic lows.

While the pandemic has halted activity in the DRC, Sierra Leone has been better able to manage due to its experience with the 2014 Ebola outbreak. But like the rest of the trade, artisanal miners need to think beyond Covid-19 and make sure the right systems are in place to facilitate sales when demand returns. That challenge is especially difficult for these miners, who rely on the DDI’s guidance to gain access to the global diamond market. Hopefully, Resolve will help broaden the DDI’s scope. And as activity scales up, it will be up to the greater jewelry industry to support this important part of the global diamond community.

Source: DCLA